Frommer's Belgium, Holland and Luxembourg (Frommer's Complete Guides)

Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg

Detailed maps throughout

• Exact prices, directions, opening hours, and other practical information

• Candid reviews of hotels and restaurants, plus sights, shopping, and nightlife

• Itineraries, walking tours, and trip-planning ideas

• Insider tips from local expert authors

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12th Edition

Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg

Relax at one of the lively outdoor cafes on Place Guillaume II in Luxembourg City. See chapter 20.

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CENTRAL AMSTERDAM

Wibautstraat

Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg 12th Edition

by George McDonald

ABOUT THE AUTHOR George McDonald has lived and worked in both Amsterdam and Brussels, as deputy editor of the inflight magazine for KLM and as editor-in-chief of the in-flight magazine for Sabena. Now a freelance journalist and travel writer, he has written extensively on both the Netherlands and Belgium for magazines and for travel books. In addition to Frommer's Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg, he is the author of Frommer’s Amsterdam and a coauthor of Frommer’s Europe and Frommer’s Europe by Rail. Published by:

WILEY PUBLISHING, INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2011 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 201/748-6011, fax 201/748-6008, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-0-470-88766-0 (paper); ISBN 978-1-118-06149-7 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-118-06150-3 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-118-06151-0 (ebk) Editor: Jennifer Reilly Production Editor: Jonathan Scott Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front Cover Photo: Bruges. ©Nagelestock.com / Alamy Images. Back Cover Photo: Place Guillaume in Luxembourg City. ©Bert Hoferichter / Alamy Images. For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1

CONTENTS List of Maps viii

1 THE BEST OF BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG 1 The Best Travel Experiences 1

The Best Deluxe Hotels 6

The Best Castles & Stately Homes 3

The Best Moderately Priced Hotels 7

The Best Museums 3

The Best Restaurants 7

The Best Cathedrals & Churches 4

The Best Cafes & Bars 8

The Best Outdoor Activities 5

The Best Shopping 9

2 BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG IN DEPTH 10 Belgium Today 11

Holland’s Art & Architecture 26

Looking Back at Belgium 12

The Lay of the Land 28

Belgian Art & Architecture 15

Holland in Popular Culture 29

Belgium in Popular Culture 17

Eating & Drinking in Holland 30

Eating & Drinking in Belgium 19

Luxembourg Today 32

Holland Today 21

Eating & Drinking in Luxembourg 35

Looking Back at Holland 23

Looking Back at Luxembourg 33

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG 36 Entry Requirements 36

Specialized Travel Resources 47

Getting There & Getting Around 38

Responsible Tourism 50

Money & Costs 43

Special Interest & Escorted Trips 51

Staying Healthy 45

Staying Connected 54

Crime & Safety 46

Tips on Accommodations 57

4 SUGGESTED BENELUX ITINERARIES 58 The Countries in Brief 58 Belgium & Holland in 1 Week 59 Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg in 2 Weeks 63

Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg for Families 66 A Nature Lover’s Tour 68 A Military Buff’s Tour of the Benelux 69

5 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELGIUM 71 The Regions in Brief 71 When to Go 73

Getting There & Getting Around 78 DRIVEN CRAZY 80

BELGIUM CALENDAR OF EVENTS 74

6 BRUSSELS 82 Orientation 82

COMIC MURALS 112

NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 84

Sports & Recreation 121

Getting Around 85

Shopping 121

FAST FACTS: BRUSSELS 87

SOME BRUSSELS SPECIALTIES 122

Where to Stay 88

Brussels After Dark 126

Where to Dine 95 QUICK BITES 96

PUPPET SHOWS: A BELGIAN PASSION 127

Side Trips from Brussels 130

Seeing the Sights 103

7 BRUGES 133 Orientation 133

Seeing the Sights 144

FOLKLORE EVENTS IN BRUGES 134

TRANQUIL ESCAPES 150

Getting Around 135

Shopping 154

FAST FACTS: BRUGES 136

Bruges After Dark 155

Where to Stay 136

A Side Trip to Damme 157

Where to Dine 141

8 GHENT & ANTWERP 159 Ghent 159

THE SEVERED HAND OF ANTWERP 175

THE GOOD NEWS FROM GHENT 168

THE DIAMOND TRADE 178

Antwerp 171

9 THE BELGIAN COAST & YPRES 188 Ostend 188

Oostduinkerke 200

Knokke-Heist 197

De Panne 201

A KEY WETLANDS RESERVE 197

Ypres 203

10 LIÈGE, THE MEUSE RIVER & HAINAUT 208 Liège 208

Dinant 224

THE BELGIAN ROME 213

SAX APPEAL 225

Huy 218

Mons 226

Namur 219

Tournai 231

MEUSE VALLEY CHÂTEAUX 221

11 THE ARDENNES 237 Bouillon 237

SKIING THE ARDENNES 245

DUKE OF HAZARDS 240

Spa 245

Bastogne 241

La Gleize 248

THE BATTLE OF THE BULGE 242

The Ostkantone 249

Han-Sur-Lesse 243

HAUTES FAGNES NATIONAL PARK 250

Durbuy 244

12 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HOLLAND 253 The Regions in Brief 253

HOLLAND CALENDAR OF EVENTS 258

When to Go 256

Getting There & Getting Around 261

13 AMSTERDAM 266 Orientation 266

Seeing the Sights 300

NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 269

YOUR PASSPORT TO AMSTERDAM 300

Getting Around 269

Sports & Recreation 316

BICYCLING IN AMSTERDAM 272

Shopping 318

FAST FACTS: AMSTERDAM 273

NINE GREAT LITTLE STREETS 318

Where to Stay 274

Amsterdam After Dark 323 SMOKING COFFEESHOPS 327

Where to Dine 286 SECRETS OF THE RIJSTTAFEL 290

14 HAARLEM & NOORD-HOLLAND 330 Haarlem 330

WINDMILL WAYS 348

Zandvoort 335

Tulips & Cheese 349

BY THE SIDE OF THE ZUIDERZEE 337

Den Helder & Texel 352

The Western IJsselmeer Shore 337 BY BICYCLE TO HOORN 343

Castle Country 354 AN AMERICAN LIFE 355

Zaanse Schans 346

15 THE HAGUE, ROTTERDAM & ZUID-HOLLAND 357 The Hague 357

THOSE DELFT POTTERY BLUES 384

Scheveningen 368

Gouda 388

Rotterdam 372 GRAND HARBOR 378

Leiden 390

WINDMILLS OF KINDERDIJK 383

LIVING HISTORY 395

WALKING IN FATHERS’ FOOTSTEPS 393

Delft 383

16 FRIESLAND, GRONINGEN & DRENTHE 396 Leeuwarden (Ljouwert) 396

CANAL TOURS 415

The Eastern IJsselmeer Shore 401

Exploring Around Groningen 417

Sneek (Snits) 404

Assen 420

The Waddenzee Coast 405

A MOVING SIDE TRIP FROM ASSEN 421

Waddeneilanden (Fryske Eilannen) 407

Emmen 422

WALKING ON WATER 412

VINCENT’S VISION OF DRENTHE 424

STONE AGE GIANTS 423

Groningen 413

17 UTRECHT, GELDERLAND, OVERIJSSEL & FLEVOLAND 426 Utrecht 426

Nijmegen 441

Amersfoort 434

The Hanseatic Towns 442

Apeldoorn 435

Lelystad & the Noordoostpolder 448

Arnhem 438 A BRIDGE TOO FAR 440

18 ZEELAND, NOORD-BRABANT & LIMBURG 452 Zierikzee 452

Den Bosch (’s-Hertogenbosch) 466

Middelburg 456 MUSSEL-BOUND 462

Eindhoven 468

Bergen op Zoom 463

MAASTRICHT CARNIVAL CAPERS 475

Breda 464

Valkenburg 480

THE BIESBOSCH NATIONAL PARK 465

Maastricht 470

19 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO LUXEMBOURG 483 The Regions in Brief 483

LUXEMBOURG CALENDAR OF EVENTS 484

When to Go 483

Getting There & Getting Around 487

20 LUXEMBOURG 490 Luxembourg City 490

NATURAL AVENUES 507

FAST FACTS: LUXEMBOURG CITY 495

OUTDOOR PURSUITS 510

VALLEY OF THE SEVEN CASTLES 504

The Moselle Valley 510

The Luxembourg Ardennes 504

21 FAST FACTS 513 Fast Facts: Belgium 513

Fast Facts: Luxembourg 519

Fast Facts: Holland 516

Airline Websites 522

Index 523

LIST OF MAPS Suggested Benelux Itineraries60

What to See & Do in Amsterdam302

Belgium73

Noord-Holland331

Where to Stay & Dine in Brussels90

Haarlem333

What to See & Do in Brussels104

Zuid-Holland359

The Grand-Place107

The Hague & Scheveningen361

Where to Stay & Dine in Bruges138

Rotterdam373

What to See & Do in Bruges146

Delft385

Ghent161

Gouda389

Antwerp172

Leiden391

The Belgian Coast189

Friesland, Groningen & Drenthe397

Ostend191 Liège209

Utrecht, Gelderland, Overijssel & Flevoland427

Mons227

Utrecht429

Tournai233

Zeeland, Noord-Brabant & Limburg453

The Belgian Ardennes239

Middelburg457

Holland254

Maastricht471

Where to Stay in Amsterdam276

Luxembourg485

Where to Dine in Amsterdam288

Luxembourg City492

HOW TO CONTACT US In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg, 12th Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030 [emailprotected]

AN ADDITIONAL NOTE Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS, ICONS & ABBREVIATIONS Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

special finds—those places only insiders know about fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun kids—best bets for kids and advice for the whole family special moments—those experiences that memories are made of overrated—places or experiences not worth your time or money insider tips—great ways to save time and money great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AEAmerican Express

DISCDiscover

DCDiners Club

MCMasterCard

VVisa

TRAVEL RESOURCES AT FROMMERS.COM Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website, www.frommers. com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bargains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers. com members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.

THE BEST OF BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG

lthough they’re small, each of these three countries contains a diversity of culture, language, and tradition that defies easy definition. Belgium is fractured along

the age-old European divide between the Germanic north and the Latin south. This division is expressed in the constant regional bickering between Dutch-speaking Flanders and French-speaking Wallonia that threatens to split the country entirely.

Holland (the Netherlands) has its great divide, too, along the “three great rivers”—the Maas, the Waal, and the Rhine. The northerners are straitlaced and Calvinist and (to hear the southerners say it) know what to do with a glass of beer only because they’ve been shown by the exuberant, Catholic southerners. Then there’s the matter of nations within the nation. Friesland, Zeeland, and Limburg have their notions of separateness and their own languages to back them up. As for Luxembourg, you’d think a country so small that—even on a big map—its name can’t fit within its borders would be simpler. Not a bit. Luxembourgers are such a mixed bag they’re still trying to sort out the mess left behind when the Germanic tribes overran the Roman Empire’s Rhine defenses in a.d. 406. Diversity is the greatest asset of the Benelux countries. The visitor from afar may be equally impressed by their shared characteristics, which include a determined grasp on the good life, as by the differences that separate them.

THE best TRAVEL EXPERIENCES (Belgium): There’s nothing quite like strolling onto the Grand-Place. You’ll never forget your first look at this timelessly perfect cobbled square, surrounded by gabled guild houses and the Gothic tracery of the Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) and Maison du Roi (King’s House). See chapter 6.

W Seeing the Grand-Place for the First Time

THE BEST OF BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG

The Best Travel Experiences

(Belgium): Brussels considers itself the world capital of Art Nouveau, and local architect Victor Horta (1861–1947) was its foremost exponent. View the master’s colorful, sinuous style at his former home, now the Horta Museum, and in buildings around town. See chapter 6. Time-Traveling in Bruges (Belgium): Without a doubt, Bruges is one of Europe’s most handsome small cities. Its almost perfectly preserved center sometimes seems like a film set or museum, with buildings that run the gamut of architectural styles from medieval times to the 19th century. The picturesque canals are the icing on Bruges’s cake. See chapter 7. Riding the Kusttram (Coast Tram; Belgium): Onboard the Kusttram, the 2-hour ride along the Belgian coast, from De Panne on the French border to Knokke-Heist near the Dutch border, still seems like an old-fashioned adventure. Along the way, stop off at inviting resorts, beaches, horseback-riding trails—whatever takes your fancy. See chapter 9. Touring the Ardennes (Belgium and Luxembourg): The Ardennes, which covers the eastern third of Belgium, beyond the Meuse River and on into Luxembourg, is unlike any other Benelux landscape. Steep river valleys and thickly forested slopes set it apart. This region of castles, stone-built villages, and farms has resort towns like Spa and Bouillon; unequaled cuisine created from fresh produce and game; winter skiing; nature and fresh air in abundance; and towns like Bastogne and Ettelbruck that recall the sacrifice American soldiers made for victory in the Battle of the Bulge. See chapters 11 and 20. Skating on the Canals (Holland): When the thermometer drops low enough for long enough, the Dutch canals freeze over, creating picturesque highways of ice through the cities and countryside. At such times, the Dutch take to their skates. Joining them could be the highlight of your trip. See p.317. Relaxing in a Brown Cafe (Holland): Spend a leisurely evening in a brown cafe, the traditional Amsterdam watering hole. These time-honored Dutch bars are unpretentious, unpolished institutions filled with camaraderie, like a British pub or an American neighborhood bar. See chapter 13. Following the Tulip Trail (Holland): The place to see the celebrated Dutch tulips in their full glory is Keukenhof Gardens at Lisse, where vast numbers of tulips and other flowers create dazzling patches of color in the spring. Combine your visit with a trip through the bulb fields between Leiden and Haarlem. See chapter 14. Checking Out the Windmills at Zaanse Schans (Holland): In flat Holland, wind is ever present, so it’s not surprising that the Dutch have used windmills to assist with their hard labor, from draining polders to sawing wood. At one time, the Zaan district, northwest of Amsterdam, had more than 1,000 windmills. Of the 13 that survive, five have been reconstructed at Zaanse Schans, together with other historical buildings reminiscent of the area’s past. See chapter 14. Celebrating Carnival in Maastricht (Holland): The country never seems so divided by the great rivers as it does during Carnival season. Southerners declare that their celebrations are superior, and if you ever run into a southern Carnival parade, you’ll have to admit they know how to party. In Maastricht the festivities are especially boisterous—people parade through the streets in an endless procession of outrageous outfits and boundless energy. See p.258. Driving the Wine Trail (Luxembourg): Follow the Route du Vin along the banks of the Moselle River from Echternach to Mondorf-les-Bains. Here the low hills of

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best

The Best Museums

(near Brussels, Belgium): This 13th-century castle, 8km (5 miles) south of Brussels, is a castle just like Disney makes them, with turrets, towers, a drawbridge, a moat, and the spirits of all those who have, willingly or unwillingly, resided within its walls. It looks like the ideal place for pulling up the drawbridge and settling in for a siege—so long as the owners have the foresight to amply stock the rustic Auberge Kasteel Beersel restaurant inside. See p.131. Gravensteen (Ghent, Belgium): Even 900 years after it was constructed, the castle of the Counts of Flanders in Ghent can still summon up a feeling of dread as you peruse its gray stone walls. It’s a grim reminder that castles were not all for chivalrous knights and beautiful princesses. This one was intended as much to subdue the independent-minded citizens of Ghent as to protect the city from foreign marauders. Inside are the tools of the autocrat’s profession: torture instruments that show that what the Middle Ages lacked in humanity, they made up for in invention. See p.162. Bouillon (near Dinant in the Ardennes, Belgium): This was the seat of the valiant but hardhanded Godfrey of Bouillon, who led the First Crusade in 1096. His castle still stands today, atop a steep bluff overlooking the town, the bridge over the Semois River, and the road to Paris. Tour its walls, chambers, and dungeons. See p.238. Menkemaborg (Uithuizen, in Groningen province, Holland): A borg is the Groningen version of a stately home, developed from an earlier, defensive structure. Once home to Groningen landed gentry, Menkemaborg is a fine example of the style. Rebuilt in the 1700s, it was owned by the same family until the beginning of the 20th century. Nowadays it’s a museum, with period furnishings re-creating a vivid picture of the life and times of a wealthy provincial squire. See p.417. Rijksmuseum Paleis Het Loo (near Apeldoorn, Holland): William III, who became king of England, had a royal hunting lodge built here in the forests surrounding Apeldoorn. Subsequent members of the House of Orange made alterations to the palace, especially during the 19th century. Restoration has revealed much of the original decoration, and what couldn’t be saved has been redesigned according to the original plans. The gardens have been restored to their original 17th-century splendor. See p.435. Kasteel Ammersoyen (near ’s-Hertogenbosch, Holland): This magnificent example of a moated fortress, with sturdy towers at each corner, dates from the second half of the 13th century. Ammersoyen’s history was turbulent—it burned down in 1590 and was left in ruins for half a century before being rebuilt. See p.467.

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Luxembourg are covered with vineyards. Several wineries open their doors to visitors, offer guided tours, explain how their wine is produced, and treat you to a little of what they have stored in their barrels. See chapter 20.

MUSEUMS

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of the finest Belgian artists are assembled in this museum’s neoclassical Museum of Historical Art. An entire section is devoted to Pieter Bruegel the Elder, and there are works by Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony van Dyck, Hieronymus Bosch, and many others. Go underground to the Modern Art Museum for works by René Magritte, Paul 3

THE BEST OF BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG

The Best Cathedrals & Churches

Delvaux, James Ensor, Félicien Rops, and Pierre Alechinsky, as well as the Musée Magritte, boasting more than 150 works by the surrealist artist Magritte. See p.112. Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Kunsten Antwerpen (Royal Fine Arts Museum; Antwerp, Belgium): If you want to see the Flemish Masters in all their glory, head to Antwerp, where the Fine Arts Museum has the world’s best collection of their works, including the largest group of Rubens masterpieces in existence. See p.117. Musée de la Vie Wallonne (Museum of Walloon Life; Liège, Belgium): Set in a 17th-century convent, this museum rambles through the history and culture of Belgium’s French-speaking region of Wallonia. The exhibits wander through the building that houses them, covering everything from popular arts and crafts to industry and agriculture. There’s an interesting section on theater marionettes. See p.212. Rijksmuseum (State Museum; Amsterdam, Holland): The Rijksmuseum houses some of the Netherlands’s most important works of art: many paintings by Rembrandt, among them the world-famous The Night Watch, four of Jan Vermeer’s miniatures, and numerous works by Frans Hals. All in all, this is one of the most impressive collections of Old Masters in the world. Unfortunately, until 2013 you’ll be viewing a lot fewer than before, since most of the museum is closed for refurbishment. But in the sole wing that remains open, the museum has assembled The Masterpieces, highlights from its collection of 17th-century Dutch Golden Age collections. See p.301. Van Gogh Museum (Amsterdam, Holland): An extensive collection of van Gogh’s work is here: 200 paintings and 500 drawings, ranging from the famous Sunflowers to earless self-portraits. The permanent collection includes important works by van Gogh’s 19th-century contemporaries, and frequent temporary or visiting exhibits concentrate on the same period. See p.304. Mauritshuis (The Hague, Holland): An intimate museum set in the 17th-century palace of a Dutch count, it contains a small but impressive collection of Golden Age art treasures. See p.360. Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen (Rotterdam, Holland): This eclectic museum features a range of art forms, from visual to applied arts, covering a period of over 7 centuries. Here you see paintings by the likes of Pieter Bruegel and Jan van Eyck, and surrealists like René Magritte and Salvador Dalí. See p.375. Musée National de l’Histoire Militaire (National Museum of Military History; Diekirch, Luxembourg): There’s something special about this tribute to the heroes of the Battle of the Bulge (1944–45), something gritty and immediate that sets it apart from other war museums. Its centerpiece is a series of dioramas that give you an eerie sense of being there in the battle, in the snow, with danger all around. See p.506.

THE best CATHEDRALS & CHURCHES (Church of Our Lady; Bruges, Belgium): The spire of this church soars 122m (400 ft.) high and can be seen from a wide area around Bruges. The church holds a marble Madonna and Child by Michelangelo, a painting by Anthony van Dyck, and the 15th-century bronze tomb sculptures of Charles the Bold and Mary of Burgundy. See p.150. Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal (Cathedral of Our Lady; Antwerp, Belgium): It’s hard to miss this towering example of the Flemish Gothic style if you visit Antwerp or even

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The Best Outdoor Activities

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pass close to the city—its spire is 123m (404 ft.) high and dominates the area. This is the biggest church in the Benelux countries, with seven naves and 125 pillars. But oversize statistics are not Our Lady’s only attraction—no fewer than four Rubens masterpieces are inside, along with paintings by other prominent artists. See p.176. Cathédrale Notre-Dame (Cathedral of Our Lady; Tournai, Belgium): With a harmonious blending of the Romanesque and Gothic styles, this cathedral has five towers, magnificent stained-glass windows, and paintings by Peter Paul Rubens and Jacob Jordaens. Equally interesting are the opulent objects in the Treasury, especially a gold-and-silver reliquary, The Shrine of Our Lady, dating from 1205. See p.232. Westerkerk (West Church; Amsterdam, Holland): The Westerkerk’s tower, the Westertoren, is, at 85m (277 ft.) high, the tallest in Amsterdam, providing a spectacular view of the city. Anne Frank could hear every note of the carillon’s dulcet tones while in hiding from the Nazis in her house nearby. See p.310. Sint-Bavokerk (Church of St. Bavo; Haarlem, Holland): The moment you enter Haarlem’s main square, this church is revealed in all its splendor. Completed after an unusually short construction period, it has a rare unity of structure and proportion. Regular concerts are given here on the famous organ built by Christian Müller in 1738. The young Mozart once played on this instrument. See p.383. Sint-Janskerk (Church of St. John; Gouda, Holland): At 122m (400 ft.), this is the longest church in Holland, and it has magnificent stained-glass windows. See p.390. Domkerk (Cathedral; Utrecht, Holland): This magnificent cathedral was begun in the 13th century. Its tower, which is 111m (365 ft.) high and dominates old Utrecht’s skyline, affords great views of the city. See p.428. Sint-Servaasbasiliek (Basilica of St. Servatius; Maastricht, Holland): One of Holland’s oldest churches, this basilica was built over the grave of St. Servatius, the first bishop of Holland. Over the centuries, people have honored St. Servatius with gifts, and now the Treasury holds a collection of incredible richness and beauty. Most impressive are the reliquaries of St. Thomas and of St. Servatius, created by Maastricht master goldsmiths in the 12th century. See p.474. Cathédrale Notre-Dame (Cathedral of Our Lady; Luxembourg City): The cathedral was built late for the Gothic style—in the early 17th century—but is nevertheless a great Gothic monument, albeit one clearly influenced by Renaissance ideals. The Octave of Our Lady of Luxembourg takes place here every year before the statue of the Virgin, which is said to have miraculous powers. See p.496.

THE best OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES (Belgium): Conditions on the beach at De Panne are ideal for this exciting, unusual sport. See p.203. Hiking Across the Hautes Fagnes (Belgium): Wooden walkways stretch like the Yellow Brick Road across the high, bleak moorland plateau of Hautes Fagnes Nature Reserve in eastern Belgium, between Eupen and Malmédy. On these walkways, you explore the remnants of an ancient morasslike landscape that has claimed lives in bad weather through the centuries and into recent times. It is a beautiful, wild place and satisfying to cross at any time of year. A fine summer’s day may be best, but venturing onto the moor, adequately clothed, in the middle of a snowbound winter night also has its attractions. See p.250.

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The Best Deluxe Hotels

THE BEST OF BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG

THE

best DELUXE HOTELS

(Brussels, Belgium; &02/217-23-00): This century-old hotel in the heart of Brussels maintains the Belle Epoque splendor of its first days and combines it with modern furnishings and service. Its L’Alban Chambon restaurant is one of Brussels’s best. See p.89. Hotel des Indes (The Hague, Holland; &070/361-2345): Within this opulent hotel, simply lean over the balustrade on the first-floor landing to watch the cream of The Hague’s society having tea in the lounge, and the lights of chandeliers reflecting in the polished marble pillars. The rooms are equally grand and comfortable. See p.364. Bilderberg Landgoed Lauswolt (Beetsterzwaag, near Leeuwarden, Holland; &0512/381-245): This 19th-century country house has been converted into a luxury hotel equipped with the latest amenities and leisure facilities. Some 2,700 acres of forest and heather offer ample opportunity for walking or horseback riding. Play golf or tennis, or swim in the heated indoor pool. All this activity will surely stir your appetite—luckily, the cuisine in the restaurant De Heeren van Harinxma is of the same high standard as the other comforts in the hotel. See p.400. Romantik Hotel-Auberge de Campveerse Toren (Veere, Holland; &0118/501291): This ancient inn guards the harbor of Veere. With the Veerse Meer (Lake Veere) lapping at the walls below your room, you overlook the length of the lake to

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(Belgium and Luxembourg): Some years it snows and some years it doesn’t. But when it does snow enough, the Ardennes is a very pleasant place to ski. You’ll find a dozen or so downhill centers, but most skiing in the Ardennes is cross-country. A particularly good location is Hautes Fagnes Nature Reserve between Eupen and Malmédy, but skiing is permitted only on the designated trails because this is a protected landscape. See chapters 11 and 20. Biking in Holland: To fully engage in the Dutch experience, you positively have to board a bicycle and head out into the wide green yonder. The tourism authorities have marked out many cycling tour routes and have published descriptive booklets and maps to go along with them, available from VVV tourist offices. Many rail stations around the country have bikes for rent. See p.264. Walking on the Wadden Sea (Holland): At low tide, the Wadden Sea, between the northern coast and the Wadden Islands, virtually disappears, and if you’re up for a walk in the mud, join a Wadden Walking (Wadlopen) trip and plow your way over land to one of the islands. If you’re lucky, you might encounter seals gallivanting in pools left by the retreating tide or sunbathing on the flats. See p.412. Riding White Bikes in Hoge Veluwe National Park (Holland): It was tried once in Amsterdam—providing free white bikes for everyone to use—but the bikes mysteriously disappeared and turned up in private hands with fresh coats of paint. The scheme has worked much better in this beautiful national park, which apparently doesn’t shelter as many bike thieves. Just head to Hoge Veluwe’s parking lot, pick up a bike, and explore the traffic-free scenery. See p.436. Canoeing in the Biesbosch (Holland): This unique natural park of marshland, meadows, and willow woods was formed during the St. Elizabeth floods of 1421, when 16 villages were submerged and polderland became an inland sea. There are several possibilities for exploring the Biesbosch, including a tour boat, but paddling your own canoe is the best way to get close to nature. See p.465.

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THE best MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS

THE

The Best Restaurants

(Brussels, Belgium; &02/219-95-46): This is the best little hotel in Brussels, a small place with a big welcome, and the standard of the rooms is high. Try to get proprietor Michel Smeesters to tell you about his hotel’s history, preferably over a glass or two of Kwak beer—but be careful: It’s a long story, and Kwak is strong beer. See p.92. Egmond (Bruges, Belgium; &050/34-14-45): Think of the Egmond as your own country mansion, for not much more than a hundred bucks a room. There’s just one problem with this image: The Egmond is not actually in the country. In compensation, it has its own grounds and gardens, and stands next to the Minnewater (Lover’s Lake). See p.137. Firean (Antwerp, Belgium; & 03/237-02-60): Some hotels would be notable enough if they only shared the Firean’s Art Deco style and Tiffany glass decor. So having an inventively fitted-out interior, a fine restaurant, and proprietors who care about service makes this one stand out from the crowd. See p.180. Seven Bridges (Amsterdam, Holland; & 020/623-1329): At some hotels, the owners aren’t just running a business—they’re doing what they love. The Seven Bridges is that kind of place. Pierre Keulers and Günter Glaner have found both their hobby and their profession in this fine hotel in Amsterdam. It’s no exaggeration to say that all the furniture, fixtures, and fittings have been selected with loving care, and guests receive the same conscientious attention. See p.281. Amrâth Hotel DuCasque (Maastricht, Holland; &043/321-4343): The Hotel DuCasque overlooks the Vrijthof, which basks in its reputation as the liveliest square in the liveliest city in the country. Despite its prestigious address, this hotel is about as moderately priced as you’re likely to find in Maastricht. See p.476.

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the harbor where pleasure boats are moored. Little is as calming to the spirit as a walk through the old streets of Veere at dusk. Later, back in your room at the inn for the night, you’ll be gently lulled to sleep by the murmuring lake waters. See p.460. Kasteel Wittem (Wittem, Holland; &043/450-1208): This romantically idyllic 12th-century castle is also a hotel. It’s the perfect place to stay after exploring the south of Holland’s Limburg province. In the summer, dine or have breakfast on a magnificent terrace overlooking the garden and moat. See p.478. Grand Hotel Cravat (Luxembourg City; & 22-19-75): The Cravat has been a Luxembourg institution for a century. And for fine dining nearby, you won’t need to look farther than its own Le Normandy. See p.499.

best RESTAURANTS

(Brussels, Belgium; & 02/512-29-21): An irony about this culinary holy of holies is its name: “Just Like Home.” A hallowed silence descends on diners as they sample their first mouthful of French specialties with added Belgian zest. This being Belgium, the silence doesn’t last long, but the taste and the memory linger. See p.95. In ’t Spinnekopke (Brussels, Belgium; &02/511-86-95): For a different kind of Brussels eating experience, try this down-home restaurant dating from 1762. Here

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The Best Cafes & Bars

THE W

best CAFES & BARS

(Brussels, Belgium; &02/511-87-89): Le Falstaff deserves the highest accolades for its eclectic, accomplished mix of Art Nouveau and Art Deco, and its extensive drink list. This is self-satisfied, bourgeois Brussels at its best. See p.129. ’t Dreupelkot (Ghent, Belgium; &09/224-21-20): Ghent has no shortage of fine cafes, and you can just about guarantee that any one you enter will provide pleasant memories. ’t Dreupelkot adds a particularly warm glow of appreciation, but you should know that its stock in trade is jenever, one of the most potent alcoholic liquids known to humankind. Actually, some of ’t Dreupelkot’s 100 varieties are fairly mild, while others have been flavored with herbs and spices. The atmosphere in the cafe is great—it’s filled with jenever buffs, not drunks. See p.171. Den Engel (Antwerp, Belgium; &03/233-12-52): There are cafes in Antwerp with a lot more action, but for a genuine Antwerp bar, it’s hard to beat this one. A location on a corner of the Grote Markt adds to the attraction. To experience Den Engel’s crowning glory, order a glass of Antwerp’s own, lovingly poured De Koninck beer—a golden-brown liquid in a glass called a bolleke (little ball) that glows like amber in sunlight streaming through Den Engel’s windows. See p.184. Cafe ’t Smalle (Amsterdam, Holland; & 020/623-9617): This cozy, crowded brown cafe on Amsterdam’s Egelantiersgracht is usually thick with jenever vapor and lively conversation. Escape the crush on the splendid canal-side terrace, a perfect place to watch cyclists and cars rushing past while you rest your legs on the terrace railing. See p.326. In den Ouden Vogelstruys (Maastricht, Holland; & 043/321-4888): This friendly, popular Maastricht watering hole was already well-trodden territory when

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traditional Belgian dishes are given the care and attention expected of more refined—though not necessarily tastier—cuisine. See p.102. Le Sanglier des Ardennes (Durbuy, Belgium; & 086/21-32-62): This restaurant, in a hotel in one of the prettiest of Ardennes villages, has the rustic looks and ideal location to go along with its fine country food. Walking in the surrounding wooded hills is the perfect preparation for lunch or dinner here. See p.244. De Echoput (Apeldoorn, Holland; & 055/519-1248): Game features prominently on the menu at this restaurant, set amid the forests near Apeldoorn, on the edge of the Royal Wood. During the hunting season, try wild boar, venison, and any kind of fowl—always succulent and prepared with flair. In spring and summer, the menu’s just as delectable, and in fair weather, dine on the terrace in the fresh forest air. See p.436. Château Neercanne (Maastricht, Holland; &043/325-1359): “To live like a god in France” goes the proverb expressing the pinnacle of earthly pleasure. You might imagine yourself to be both a god and in France if you dine at this château, which was designed following French models. What’s more, in true French culinary style, the food here is seductively elegant and the wine cellar is unique and impressive— the wines are kept under perfect conditions in the marlstone caves behind the château. See p.478. Le Bouquet Garni/Salon Saint-Michel (Luxembourg City; &26-20-06-20): The Saint-Michel occupies a little side street in the Old Town, but it lights up the entire city with classic French cuisine that makes no concessions where quality is concerned. See p.500.

THE

The Best Shopping

best SHOPPING

(Brussels, Belgium): You’ll need luck to score a bargain at the weekend antiques market on place du Grand Sablon—the dealers are well aware of the precise worth of each item in their stock and are calmly determined to get it. But it’s still fun to wander the market, browsing and haggling, and who knows? You just might stumble on that hard-to-find affordable treasure. See chapter 6. Chocolates (Belgium): The Swiss might want to argue the point, but the truth is that Belgian handmade chocolates, filled with various fresh-cream flavors, are the best in the universe. You won’t go wrong if you buy chocolates made by Marcolini, Wittamer, Nihoul, Leonidas, and Neuhaus, available in specialist stores all over Belgium (and in Holland and Luxembourg, too). See chapter 6. Lace (Belgium): There are two kinds of Belgian lace: exquisitely handmade pieces, and machine-made stuff. Machine-made lace is not necessarily bad, but this is the form used to mass-produce pieces of indifferent quality to meet the demand for souvenirs. The highest-quality lace is handmade. Brussels, Bruges, and Ghent are the main, though not the only, points of sale. See chapters 6, 7, and 8. Diamonds (Antwerp, Belgium): One thing is for sure: You’ll be spoiled for choice in Antwerp’s Diamond Quarter. Much of the trade here is carried on by the city’s Orthodox Jewish community, whose conservative ways and traditional black clothing make a striking contrast to the glitter of their stock in trade. See chapter 8. Flower Bulbs (Holland): It’s difficult to choose from the incredible variety of bulb shapes and colors offered in Holland. Some bulbs flower early in January; others wait until the warmer months of May or June. Knowing this, choose bulbs with different flowering times, so you’ll enjoy their blooming over a long period in spring. In Amsterdam buy them from the Floating Flower market on the Singel canal. See chapter 13. Delftware (Holland): Originally, the pottery made in the factories at Delft was white, imitating tin-glazed products from Italy and Spain. But during the 16th century, blue Chinese porcelain was imported to Holland, and this was soon recognized to be of superior quality. So the Delftware factories started using a white tin glaze to cover the red clay and decorating the pottery in blue. This Delft Blue became famous the world over, along with Makkumware, which is pottery produced in the Dutch town of Makkum. Delftware and Makkumware are for sale in specialized stores all over the country, but it’s far more interesting to go to one of the workshops in the towns themselves and see how it’s made. Little has changed over the centuries, and all the decorating is still done by hand. See chapters 15 and 16. Wine (Luxembourg): Holland’s and Belgium’s modest output notwithstanding, Luxembourg is the only major wine producer in the Benelux countries. The vintage in question is the highly regarded Moselle wine, perhaps not as well known outside the Grand Duchy and its immediate neighbors as German and French wines, but fine stock nonetheless. See chapter 20.

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it came under artillery fire in some war or another in 1653 and took a hit from a cannonball that remains lodged in one of its walls. The place attracts a broad—in some individual cases, very broad—cross section of Maastricht society. See p.479.

BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG IN DEPTH

obody who lives in one of these countries—with the exception of politicos and bureaucrats—speaks routinely of the “Benelux.” Whenever you read that word

in this book, be advised that it’s merely a convenient shorthand that does away with the need to write “Belgium, the Netherlands (Holland), and Luxembourg.” No one from the Benelux—not even politicos and bureaucrats—thinks of themselves as a Beneluxian.

Despite being buffeted by the economic storms roiling the world at the time of writing, the three Benelux countries continue to enjoy an enviable standard of living, and a quality of life that makes good use of it. Their societies become more multicultural by the day, a development that’s seen most clearly in the region’s towns and cities—these lands are among the most urbanized on earth. For the most part, this has only added to their contemporary vibrancy, but the process has not been without stress. Even Amsterdam’s famed tolerance is showing signs of strain. Belgium is a small country. Not so small that if you blink you’ll miss it, but small enough that a couple of hours of focused driving will get you from the capital, Brussels, to any corner of the realm. Yet the variety of culture, language, history, and cuisine crammed into this space would do credit to a land many times its size. Belgium’s diversity is a product of its location at the cultural crossroads of western Europe. The boundary between the Continent’s Germanic north and Latin south cuts clear across the country’s middle. Like an Atlantis in reverse, Holland has emerged from the sea. Much of the country was once a pattern of islands, precariously separated from the North Sea by dunes. As the centuries rolled past, these islands were patiently stitched together by Dutch ingenuity and hard work. The outcome is a canvas-flat, green-and-silver Mondrian of a country, with nearly half its land and two-thirds of its 16 million inhabitants below sea level. The Grand Duchy of Luxembourg is tiny. Its borders seem unlikely to enclose so many worthy travel delights. Yet within this country are the

BELGIUM TODAY

Belgium Today

After a long history of occupation by foreign powers, Belgium has emerged as a site for European nations to come together. Brussels—which hosts the headquarters of both the European Union and NATO—is now home to the world’s largest concentration of international diplomats. Modern Belgium is a parliamentary democracy under a constitutional monarch, King Albert II. The government exists in a more-or-less permanent state of crisis due to the cultural and linguistic divide. And that’s when there even is a government with ambitious regional politicians, particularly in Flanders, often pushing the country to the brink of dissolution. In 2010 Flanders was once again threatening to break away and form its own government, in light of inconclusive election results and Wallonia’s weaker economic status. Still, reports of Belgium’s death have been published before and have always turned out to be greatly exaggerated, and it seems likely to be no different this time around. For a graphic picture of Belgium’s two ethnic regions, Dutch-speaking Vlaanderen (Flanders) and French-speaking Wallonie (Wallonia), draw an imaginary east-west line across the country just south of Brussels. North of the line is Flanders, where you find the medieval cities of Bruges, Ghent, and Antwerp, and Belgium’s North Sea coastline. South of the line is Wallonia. Then there’s Brussels, the capital, roughly in the geographic middle, and going off on a trajectory of its own as the “capital of Europe.” It has been said that Belgium suffers severely from linguistic indigestion. The inhabitants of Flanders speak Nederlands (Low Countries Speech), which is generally rendered in English as Dutch, although you may hear the language referred to as Vlaams (Flemish) in Flanders. The inhabitants of Wallonia speak French, and a minority still speak the old Walloon dialect. In Brussels the two languages mingle, but French has the upper hand. So strong is the feeling for each language in its own region that, along the line where they meet, it’s not unusual for French to be the daily tongue on one side of a street and Flemish on the other. Throughout the country, road signs acknowledge both languages by giving multiple versions of the same place name—Brussel/Bruxelles or Brugge/Bruges, for example. There’s even a small area in eastern Belgium where German is spoken. Belgium, then, has not one, but three, official languages: Dutch, French, and German.

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remnants of a rich history and a landscape with scenery that varies from wild highlands to peaceful river valleys fringed by vineyards to plains dotted with picturesque villages and farmlands. To make themselves even more livable than they already are, the big cities of Brussels, Amsterdam, Antwerp, Rotterdam, and The Hague have been building out their rapid-transit systems, redeveloping decayed or decaying inner-city and harbor zones, and expanding their cultural offerings. All the while, more ethnic eateries and shops are springing up. Other cities, such as Bruges, Ghent, Liège, Utrecht, Maastricht, and Luxembourg City (to name just a few!), are doing no less, and I recommend that you get out of the big cities and find out what’s up in these other places during your visit to the Benelux.

BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG IN DEPTH

Looking Back at Belgium

In short, far from being a homogeneous, harmonious people with one strong national identity, Belgians take considerable pride in their individualistic attributes. The vast majority of Belgians are Catholic, though there’s more than a smattering of Protestants, a small Jewish community, and a rising proportion of immigrant Muslims and their locally born children. Down the centuries, Belgians—nobles and peasants alike—have proclaimed their Christian faith by way of impressive cathedrals, churches, paintings, and holy processions. The tradition continues today. Folklore still plays a large part in Belgium’s national daily life, with local myths giving rise to some of the country’s most colorful pageants and festivals, such as Ypres’s Festival of the Cats, Bruges’s Pageant of the Golden Tree, and the stately Ommegang in Brussels. In Belgium’s renowned puppet theaters, marionettes based on folkloric characters identify their native cities—Woltje (Little Walloon) belongs to Brussels, Schele to Antwerp, Pierke to Ghent, and Tchantchès to Liège. Undoubtedly, Belgians have a finely tuned appreciation for the good things in life; when standards are met, watch Belgian eyes light up. Appreciation then moves very close to reverence, whether inspired by a great artistic masterpiece, or a homemade mayonnaise of just the right lightness, or one of Belgium’s more than 450 native beers. If you have shared that experience with a Belgian companion, chances are you’ll find your own sense of appreciation taking on a finer edge.

LOOKING BACK AT BELGIUM Julius Caesar first marched his Roman legions against the ancient Belgae tribes in 58 b.c. For nearly 5 centuries thereafter, Belgium was shielded from the barbarians by the great Roman defense line on the Rhine. From the beginning of the 5th century, Roman rule gave way to the Franks. In 800, their great king Charlemagne was named emperor of the West. He instituted an era of agricultural reform, setting up local rulers known as counts, who rose up to seize more power after Charlemagne’s death. In 843, Charlemagne’s grandsons signed the Treaty of Verdun, which split French-allied (but Dutch-speaking) Flanders in the north from the southern (French-speaking) Walloon provinces. Then came Viking invaders. A Flemish defender known as Baldwin Iron-Arm became the first count of Flanders in 862; his house eventually ruled over a domain that included the Low Countries and lands as far south as the Scheldt (Escaut) in France. Meanwhile, powerful prince-bishops controlled most of Wallonia from their seat in Liège.

Flanders Rising As Flanders grew larger and stronger, its cities thrived, and its citizens wrested more and more self-governing powers. Bruges emerged as a leading center of European trade; its monopoly on English cloth attracted bankers and financiers from Germany and Lombardy. Ghent and Ypres (Ieper) prospered in the wool trade. Powerful trade and manufacturing guilds emerged and erected splendid edifices as their headquarters. As towns took on city-state status, the mighty count of Flanders, with close ties to France, grew less and less mighty; in 1297, France’s Philip the Fair attempted to annex Flanders. However, he had not reckoned on the stubborn resistance of Flemish common folk. Led by Jan Breydel, a lowly weaver, and Pieter de Coninck, a butcher,

they rallied to face a heavily armored French military. The battle took place in 1302 in the fields surrounding Kortrijk. When it was over, victorious artisans and craftsmen scoured the bloody battlefield, triumphantly gathering hundreds of golden spurs from slain French knights. Their victory at the “Battle of the Golden Spurs” is celebrated by the Flemish to this day.

The Burgundian Era

Philip the Good, duke of Burgundy in the mid-1400s, gained control of virtually all the Low Countries. His progeny, through a series of marriages, consolidated their holdings into a single Burgundian “Netherlands,” or Low Countries. Brussels, Antwerp, Mechelen, and Leuven attained new prominence as centers of trade, commerce, and the arts. This era was one of immense wealth, much of which was poured into fine public buildings, impressive mansions, and soaring Gothic cathedrals that survive to this day. Wealthy patrons made possible the brilliant works of Flemish artists such as Jan van Eyck, Hieronymous Bosch, Rogier van der Weyden, and German-born Hans Memling. Flemish opulence became a byword around Europe. By the end of the 1400s, however, Charles the Bold, last of the dukes of Burgundy, had lost to the French king on the field of battle, and once more French royalty turned a covetous eye on the Low Countries. To French consternation, Mary of Burgundy, the duke’s heir, married Maximilian of Austria. The provinces became part of the Austrian Habsburg Empire. A grandson of that union, Charles V, born in Ghent and reared in Mechelen, presided for 40 years over most of Europe, including Spain and its New World possessions. He was beset by the Protestant Reformation, which created dissension among the once solidly Catholic populace. It all proved too much for the great monarch, and he abdicated in favor of his son, Philip II of Spain.

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Philip ascended to power in an impressive ceremony at Coudenberg Palace in Brussels in 1555. An ardent Catholic who spoke neither Dutch nor French, he brought the infamous instruments of the Inquisition to bear on an increasingly Protestant— and increasingly rebellious—Low Countries population. The response from his Protestant subjects was violent: For a month in 1566, they went on a rampage of destruction, the Beeldenstorm (Iconoclastic Fury), that saw churches pillaged, religious statues smashed, and other religious works of art burned. An angry Philip ordered the duke of Alba to lead 10,000 Spanish troops in a wave of retaliatory strikes. The atrocities Alba and his “Council of Blood” committed as he swept through the Spanish Netherlands are legendary. He was merciless—when the Catholic counts of Egmont and Hornes tried to intercede with Philip, he put them under arrest for 6 months, and then had them publicly beheaded on the GrandPlace in Brussels. Instead of submission, this sort of intimidation gave rise to a brutal conflict that lasted from 1568 to 1648. Led by William the Silent and other nobles who raised private armies, the Protestants fought on doggedly until, finally, independence was achieved for the seven undefeated provinces to the north, which became the fledgling

Looking Back at Belgium

The Spanish Invasion

country of the Netherlands. Those in the south remained under the thumb of Spain and gradually returned to the Catholic Church.

An Independent Nation

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Looking Back at Belgium

In 1795, Belgium wound up once more under the rule of France. It was not until Napoleon Bonaparte’s crushing defeat at Waterloo—just miles from Brussels— that Belgians began to think of national independence as a real possibility. Its time had not yet come, however; under the Congress of Vienna, Belgium was once more united with the provinces of Holland. But the Dutch soon learned that governing the unruly Belgians was more than they had bargained for, and the 1830 rebellion in Brussels was the last straw. A provisional Belgian government was formed with an elected National Congress. On July 21, 1831, Belgium officially became a constitutional monarchy when a German prince, Leopold of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, became king. The new nation set about developing its coal and iron natural resources, and its textile, manufacturing, and shipbuilding industries. The country was hardly unified by this process, however, for most of the natural resources were to be found in the French-speaking Walloon region, where prosperity grew much more rapidly than in Flanders. The Flemish, while happy to be freed from the rule of their Dutch neighbors, resented the greater influence of their French-speaking compatriots.

War & Peace It took another invasion to bring a semblance of unity. When German forces swept over the country in 1914, the Belgians mounted a defense that made them heroes of World War I—even though parts of the Flemish population openly collaborated with the enemy, hailing them as “liberators” from Walloon domination. With the coming of peace, Belgium found its southern coal, iron, and manufacturing industries reeling, while the northern Flemish regions were moving steadily ahead by developing light industry, especially around Antwerp. Advanced agricultural methods yielded greater productivity and higher profits for Flemish farmers. By the end of the 1930s, the Flemish population outnumbered the Walloons by a large enough majority to install their beloved language as the official voice of education, justice, and civil administration in Flanders. With the outbreak of World War II, Belgium was once more overrun by German forces. King Leopold III decided to surrender to the invaders, remain in Belgium, and try to soften the harsh effects of occupation. The Belgian Resistance was among the most determined and successful of the underground organizations that fought against Nazi occupation in Europe. On the other side, Flemish and Walloon quislings formed separate Waffen-SS formations that fought for the Nazis in Russia. By the war’s end, the king was imprisoned in Germany and a regent was appointed as head of state. His controversial decision to surrender led to bitter debate when he returned to the throne in 1950, and in 1951 he stepped down in favor of his son, Baudouin.

Unity & Disunity During King Baudouin’s 42 years on the throne, much progress was made in achieving harmony among Belgium’s linguistically and culturally diverse population. In the

Invented Here Betcha didn’t know that a Belgian invented the Internet . . . kind of. In 1934, Paul Otlet wrote a paper titled Traité de Documentation in which he foresaw a Universal Network for Information and

Documentation. Access would be through multimedia workstations. These didn’t exist yet—an inconvenient fact that, since he was a lawyer, Otlet was perfectly able to disregard.

BELGIAN ART & ARCHITECTURE Art

Belgian Art & Architecture

Despite its small geographic size, Belgium has exerted a significant influence on Western art. The works of Bosch, Bruegel, Rubens, van Dyck, van Eyck, and Magritte represent only a fraction of the treasures you see gracing the walls of the notable art museums in Brussels, Bruges, Ghent, and Antwerp. The golden age of Flemish painting occurred in the 1400s, a century dominated by the so-called Flemish Primitives—so dubbed because they were “first,” not because they were unsophisticated—whose work was almost always religious in theme, usually commissioned for churches and chapels, and largely lacking in perspective. As the medieval cities of Flanders flourished, more and more princes, wealthy merchants, and prosperous guilds became patrons of the arts. Art’s function was still to praise God and illustrate religious allegory, but Jan van Eyck (ca. 1390–1441), one of the earliest Flemish Masters, brought a sharp new perspective to bear on traditional subject matter. His Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, created with his brother Hubert for St. Bavo’s Cathedral in Ghent, incorporates a realistic landscape into its biblical theme. The Primitives sought to mirror reality, to portray both people and nature exactly as they appeared to the human eye, down to the tiniest detail, without classical distortions or embellishments. These artists would work meticulously for months—even years—on a single commission, often painting with a single-haired paintbrush to achieve a painstakingly lifelike quality. The greatest Flemish artist of the 16th century, Pieter Bruegel the Elder (ca. 1525–69), lived and worked for many years in Antwerp. From 1520 to 1580, the city was one of the world’s busiest ports and banking centers, and it eclipsed Bruges as a center for the arts. Many of the artists working here looked to the Italian Renaissance

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1970s, efforts were made to grant increasing autonomy to the Flemish and Walloons in the areas where each was predominant, and to apportion power to each group within the national government and the political parties. Finally, in 1993, the constitution was amended to create a federal state, made up of the autonomous regions of Flanders and Wallonia (and its semiautonomous German-speaking community), together with the bilingual city of Brussels. Baudouin died in 1993, removing one of the pillars of unity. His successor, his brother Albert II, has won respect for his conscientious efforts but has not made the same personal connection with the people.

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Belgian Art & Architecture

Masters for their models of perfection. Bruegel, who had studied in Italy, integrated Renaissance influences with the traditional style of his native land. He frequently painted rural and peasant life, as in his Wedding Procession, on view at the Musée de la Ville in Brussels. In 1563, Bruegel moved to Brussels, where he lived at rue Haute 132. Here his two sons, also artists, were born. Pieter Brueghel the Younger (ca. 1564–1637) became known for copying his father’s paintings; Jan Brueghel the Elder (1568– 1625) specialized in decorative paintings of flowers and fruits. Peter Paul Rubens (1577–1640) was the most influential baroque painter of the early 17th century. The drama in his works, such as The Raising of the Cross, housed in the Antwerp cathedral, comes from the dynamic, writhing figures in his canvases. His renditions of the female form gave rise to the term “Rubenesque,” which describes the voluptuous women who appear in his paintings. Portraitist Anthony van Dyck (1599–1641), one of the most important talents to emerge from Rubens’s studio, served as court painter to Charles I of England, though some of his best religious work remains in Belgium. Look for the Lamentation in the Koninklijke Museum voor Schone Kunsten in Antwerp, and the Crucifixion in Mechelen Cathedral. Belgium’s influence on the art world is by no means limited to the Old Masters. James Ensor (1860–1949) was a late-19th-century pioneer of modern art. One of his most famous works is the Entry of Christ into Brussels. Ensor developed a broadly expressionistic technique, liberating his use of color from the demands of realism. He took as his subject disturbing, fantastic visions and images. Surrealism flourished in Belgium, perhaps because of the earlier Flemish artists with a penchant for the bizarre and grotesque. Paul Delvaux (1897–1989) became famous, but the best known of the Belgian surrealists is unquestionably René Magritte (1898–1967). His fantastical images of pipes that are not pipes, bowlerhatted men who fall like black rain from the skies, and much more have become widely recognized images in popular culture. Many of these modern works can be seen in the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts (p.112) in Brussels and the Koninklijke Museum voor Schone Kunsten (p. 175) in Antwerp. The fine-arts museums in Ghent, Tournai, and Liège, and the modern art museums in Antwerp and Ostend, are also major sources. Carrying the flag into modern times are artists like Marcel Broodthaers (1924– 76), the founding father of Belgian conceptual art, and Pierre Alechinsky (b. 1927), a member of the post-war Cobra group of artists.

Architecture Examples of Gothic civic architecture abound in Flanders. The great ecclesiastical examples are St. Michael’s Cathedral in Brussels, in which the choir is the earliest Gothic work in Belgium, and the churches of Our Lady in Mechelen, St. Peter’s in Leuven, and St. Bavo’s in Ghent. Antwerp Cathedral is perhaps the most imposing example of late Gothic; it was begun in 1352 at the east end and the nave was completed in 1474. Among the finest examples of commercial Gothic architecture are the Cloth Hall at Ypres (built 1200–1304), the Cloth Hall in Mechelen, the Butchers Guildhall in

BELGIUM IN POPULAR CULTURE Books

Comics Belgium produces 30 million comic-strip books annually, and exports 75% of them. The Tintin books alone have sold more than 200 million copies since the youthful adventurer first appeared in 1929, created by the Belgian Georges Rémi, better known as Hergé (the initials of his name reversed and written as they would be pronounced in French). Like all good comic-strip characters, Tintin and his companions—the dog Snowy, short-fused Captain Haddock, the dopey near-look-alike detectives Thomson and Thompson, and absent-minded Professor Calculus—are ageless. Lucky Luke, the cowpoke who beats his shadow to the draw and whose horse, Jolly Jumper, plays a mean hand at poker, stars in more than 80 adventures—each of which ends with the hero riding into the sunset singing “I’m a poor lonesome cowboy,” and it has been adapted for television and computer games. His creator, illustrator Morris (real name Maurice de Bevere), a native of Kortrijk, died at age 77 in 2001. Themes of displacement and anomie run through the stories in Thorgal, though the attractions of a good fight are not passed up. Thorgal Aegirsson, born in space and

Belgium in Popular Culture

Belgium’s most prolific man of letters—indeed, one of the most prolific authors of all time—is Georges Simenon (1903–89), whose prodigious output very nearly defies belief. The Liège-born author wrote some 200 novels and 150 novellas, along with many other works, from autobiographical books to magazine and newspaper articles, and still found time to produce dozens more novels under a variety of pseudonyms. He is undoubtedly best known for the 75 novels and dozens of short stories in the Inspector Maigret detective series, most of them set in Paris. The two best-known Belgian novels would likely be Het Verdriet van België (The Sorrow of Belgium; 1983) by Hugo Claus, which deals with the Nazi occupation; and Bruges-la-Morte (Dead Bruges; 1892) by Georges Rodenbach, which deals with themes of love and loss, but is perhaps best known for having put Bruges on the European map as a tourist destination. Brussels-born author Marguerite Yourcenar (1903–88), the first woman to be elected to the French Academy, and who spent a considerable part of her life living in Maine, wrote Alexis (1929), Memoirs of Hadrian (1951), and The Abyss/Zeno of Bruges (1976).

2 BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG IN DEPTH

Ghent, and the Butchers Guildhall in Antwerp. Gothic style remained dominant until the early 16th century, when Renaissance decorative elements began to appear. Around the turn of the 20th century, Belgium produced one of the greatest exponents of the new Art Nouveau style of architecture and interior design, the prime materials of which were glass and iron, worked with decorative curved lines and floral and geometric motifs. The work of Victor Horta (1861–1947) can be seen in Brussels at the Tassel House (1893), the Hôtel Solvay (1895), and the ambitious Maison du Peuple (1896–99), with its concave, curved facades and location within an irregularly shaped square.

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Belgium in Popular Culture

sent to earth by his mother after his father and grandfather quarreled over whether to invade the planet, lives during the Viking era and knows how to use a broadsword and battle-ax to defend himself, his beautiful wife, Aarcia, and their two children. He has the Norse gods on his case and must contend against them along with a gallery of cruel human enemies. There’s also a darker side to comic strips: Bande Dessinée Erotique. Many of these books are harmlessly titillating productions; others feature graphic images of rape, bestiality, torture, and what verges on pedophilia.

Film I think it’s fair to say that Belgium is not one of the world’s great movie powers. It’s a rare Belgian film that’s seen by more than about 10 people outside of the cast and the crew and their relatives. Then again, Belgium has given Hollywood a star in JeanClaude “the Muscles from Brussels” Van Damme, and Agatha Christie’s ageless fictional detective Hercule Poirot has often graced the silver screen. Dominique Deruddere’s Everybody Famous was nominated in 2000 for the Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film, but it didn’t win. Bruges starred alongside Colin Farrell, Brendan Gleeson, Ralph Fiennes, and Clémence Poésy in the 2008 hit movie (literally) In Bruges, about two contract killers who take refuge in Bruges when a hit goes wrong. Belgian comic-strip characters have gotten the Hollywood treatment for a few new releases. Announced for summer 2011, The Smurfs Movie is a live-action/CGI/ animated film based on les Schtroumpfs, which features small blue creatures, better known in English as the Smurfs, created by Belgian cartoonist Peyo (Pierre Culliford; 1928–92) and made famous internationally via a 1980s American TV franchise. The movie is projected to be the first of a Smurfs trilogy. Next up, later in 2011, is Steven Spielberg’s The Adventures of Tintin: Secrets of the Unicorn, based on three of the Tintin tales written and illustrated by Belgian cartoonist Hergé (Georges Remi; 1907–83). Peter Jackson may direct a second Tintin movie, and Spielberg and Jackson may collaborate on a third.

Music Where would jazz be today if it weren’t for Belgium? If you are scratching your head trying to come up with the name of a great Belgian jazz musician, don’t bother (though virtuoso harmonica player Jean “Toots” Thielemans, who played theme music for movies such as Midnight Cowboy, The Sugarland Express, and The Getwaway, would be a decent answer). But if it hadn’t been for Adolphe Sax (1814–94), nobody would have invented the saxophone—and then where would jazz be today? Singer/songwriter Jacques Brel (1929–78) brought unequalled passion to his performances of songs of love, comedy, low life, and more. His discography includes Quand On n’a que l’Amour (If We Only Have Love) and Ne Me Quitte Pas (If You Go Away). Should you want to dig into Brel’s Belgian oeuvre, listen to songs like Le Plat Pays, l’Ostendaise, Knokke-Le Zoute Tango, Bruxelles, and Marieke. And then there’s the still very much alive schmaltzy singer Helmut Lotti.

EATING & DRINKING IN BELGIUM Cuisine

2 BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG IN DEPTH Eating & Drinking in Belgium

Belgian chefs may be influenced by the French, but they add their own special touches. Native specialties in Wallonia include jambon d’Ardenne (ham from the hills and valleys of the Ardennes) and savory boudin de Liège (a succulent sausage mixed with herbs). Almost every menu lists tomates aux crevettes (tomatoes stuffed with tiny, delicately sweet North Sea shrimps and light, homemade mayonnaise), which is filling enough for a light lunch and delicious as an appetizer. A special treat awaits visitors in May and June in the form of Belgian asparagus, and from October to March there’s chicory, which is known as endive/witloof in Belgium. Belgian cuisine is based on the country’s own regional traditions and produce, such as asparagus, chicory (endive), and the humble Brussels sprout. Of course, Belgium is also known for its selection of more decadent treats like waffles. Street vendors throughout the country sell Liège waffles, a concoction that’s sweet and rich enough not to need any toppings, as well as the rectangular-shaped Belgian or Brussels waffles, which are lighter and less sweet and often topped with cream or fresh fruit. Handmade Belgian chocolates (known generically as pralines) are the world champs, so lethally addictive they ought to be sold with a government health warning. This applies in particular to those made by artisanal Chocolatier Mary and arty Marcolini in Brussels, and more widely available brands like Wittamer, Nihoul, Neuhaus, and Leonidas. Purchase them loose, in bags weighing from 100 grams or boxes of 2 kilograms or more. Take a prepared box, or simply point to those you want, or ask the assistant to select a mixture. Made with real cream, they do not keep well—but you weren’t planning on keeping them for long anyway, were you? Most places serve both a plat du jour/dagschotel (plate of the day) and a good-value two- or three-course menu. A tradition in Brussels is to cook with local beers like gueuze and faro. Flanders has added its own ingredients to the mix of Belgian cuisine. The Flemish share the Dutch fondness for raw herring, generally eaten with equally raw onions, while sole à l’Ostendaise (sole in a white-wine sauce) and the small, gray North Sea shrimps are firm favorites. River fish used to be the main ingredient of the Flemish souplike stew called waterzooï, but today’s rivers being polluted, chicken is now a more familiar ingredient. If you’re basically a potatoes person, you’re in good company, for Belgians dote on their steak-frites, available at virtually every restaurant—even when not listed on the menu. These are twice-fried potatoes, as light as the proverbial feather. They’re sold in paper cones on many street corners and (in my opinion) are best when topped with homemade mayonnaise, though you may prefer tomato or curry sauce. Frites will accompany almost anything you order in a restaurant. Seafood anywhere in Belgium is fresh and delicious. Moules (mussels) are a specialty in Brussels, where you find a concentration of restaurants along Petite rue des Bouchers that feature them in just about every guise you can imagine. (Ironically,

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Eating & Drinking in Belgium

Belgian mussels actually come from Zeeland in Holland and may, in fact, be the only Dutch products Belgians will admit to being any good.) Homard (lobster) comes in a range of dishes. Don’t miss the heavenly Belgian creation called écrevisses à la liègeoise (crayfish in a rich butter, cream, and white-wine sauce). Eel, often “swimFalse Friend ming” in a grass-green sauce, is popular in both Flanders (where it’s called palWatch out for steak Américain on Franing in ’t groen) and Wallonia (anguilles cophone menus. This might sound like au vert). a nice, big, mouthwateringly juicy, No matter where you eat, you American-style steak, but it is in fact should know that service will be proraw chopped beef! fessional but not necessarily speedy. Belgians don’t just dine; they savor each course—if you’re in a hurry, you’re better off heading for a street vendor or an imported fast-food establishment.

Drinks What to drink with all those tasty dishes? Why, beer, of course! Belgium is justly famous for its brewing tradition, and this tiny country has more than 100 breweries producing around 450 different brews. The majority are local beers, specialties of a region, city, town, or village. Some famous pilsners are Stella Artois, Jupiler, Maes, Primus, and Eupener; ales to look for are Duvel, De Koninck, and Kwak. Hoegaarden is a well-known wheat beer. Unique to the country are lambic beers (beer produced by spontaneous fermentation and brewed only in Brussels and the surrounding area), such as faro (a lambic sweetened with sugar), kriek (a fruit lambic made with cherries), and gueuze (a blend of lambics). Then there are the heavenly tasting beers brewed by Trappist monks (or contracted out to commercial breweries). There are six Trappist breweries in the land: Chimay, Orval, Rochefort, Achel, Westmalle, and Westvleteren. Each local beer has a distinct, and often beautiful, glass (and bottle), which is why you can instantly tell what everyone is drinking in a Belgian bar. Needless to say, with so many choices, it may take quite a bit of sampling to find a favorite. For a digestif, you might try a gin, in Flanders known as jenever (or, colloquially, as witteke), and in Wallonia known as genièvre (colloquially as pèkèt). This stiff grainspirit is often served in glasses little bigger than a thimble. Belgium’s 70 jenever distilleries produce some 270 varieties, some flavored with juniper, coriander, or other herbs and spices. Among notable brands are Filliers Oude Graanjenever, De Poldenaar Oude Antwerpsche, Heinrich Pèkèt de la Piconette, Sint-Pol, and van Damme. Jenever in a stone bottle makes an ideal gift. In recent decades, Belgian vineyards have been slowly re-established, reversing a loss that began with the onset of the Little Ice Age in the 15th century. Most of the wineries, and five out of the seven officially recognized geographical wine regions, are in Flanders. Total annual output is less than 200,000 liters (53,000 U.S. gallons/44,000 imperial gallons), not even a quarter of neighboring Holland’s, and a tiny fraction of neighboring Luxembourg’s. Among the country’s best labels are those of Wijnkasteel Genoels-Elderen (www.wijnkasteel.com), northeast of Tongeren, and Château

Bon Baron (www.chateaubonbaron.com), in the Meuse River valley between Dinant and Namur.

HOLLAND TODAY 2 BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG IN DEPTH Holland Today

The Netherlands is small enough that a burst of vigorous driving will get you from one corner of the realm to the other in a morning, and you can travel by train from Amsterdam to the farthest point of the rail network in an afternoon. The nation’s 42,000 sq. km (16,500 sq. miles) are among the most densely populated in the world, holding 16 million people, or approximately 1,000 per square mile. The crowding is most noticeable in the Randstad (Rim City), the heavily populated area that includes the cities of Amsterdam, Rotterdam, The Hague, Leiden, Haarlem, Utrecht, and Delft. Elsewhere the land is much more sparsely populated. For the visitor, Holland today presents much the same face it has over the centuries—a serene landscape and an industrious population who treasure their age-old tradition of tolerance and who welcome people of all political, religious, and ideological persuasions. Today almost a million (6%) of the country’s inhabitants are Muslim. In recent years, though, there have been indications that, faced with threats from radical Islamists, the welcome mat is wearing thin. The politician Geert Wilders has become a lightning rod for the racial tensions in contemporary Dutch society, inheriting some of the anti-Islam mantle of the gay populist politician Pym Fortuyn, assassinated in 2002 by a pro-Muslim Dutch activist, and of filmmaker Theo van Gogh, murdered by a Dutch-Moroccan Islamist in 2004. Wilders heads Holland’s third largest party, the Party for Freedom (PVV), which in elections in 2010 increased its representation from 9 to 24 out of 150 seats in the Lower House of Parliament. The PVV views Dutch society, culture, European values, and public safety as threatened by the growth of the Muslim community and of radical Islam. Wilders, who has described the Koran as a “fascist book,” and who wants Muslim migration into Holland halted and Muslims currently living in the country to be “encouraged” to leave, lives under permanent police protection due to threats to his life. Various surveys of Dutch public opinion suggest a society that’s split on his views. At press time, Wilders was on trial in Holland for inciting hatred and discrimination; the judges in the case were dismissed for alleged bias against him, and a new trial was being awaited. Holland is a constitutional monarchy headed by Queen Beatrix of the House of Orange (opinion surveys regularly give her an 80% approval rating). The heir apparent is her oldest son, Willem-Alexander (b. 1967). Let’s clear up some matters of nomenclature. “Dutch” is the result of a 15thcentury misunderstanding on the part of the English, who couldn’t distinguish too clearly between the people of the northern Low Countries and the various German peoples. So to describe the former, they simply corrupted the German Deutsch to Dutch. The term “Holland,” too, is a bit of a misnomer as, strictly speaking, it refers only to the provinces of Noord-Holland and Zuid-Holland and not to the whole country. The Dutch themselves call their country Nederland (the Netherlands) and themselves Nederlanders. But they recognize that Holland and Dutch are popular internationally and are here to stay, so, being a practical people, they make use of them.

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Holland Today

Dutch people have a passion for detail that would boggle the mind of a statistician—and a sense of order and propriety that sends them into a tailspin if you mess things up. They organize everything (people, land, flower beds), and they love to make schedules and stick to them. They may allow you to indulge an occasional whim, though they haven’t a clue what it means to “play it by ear.” “The Dutch Disease” is what a conservative U.S. columnist called Holland’s social liberalism. But not many of the hookers in Amsterdam’s Red Light District are Dutch, and relatively few denizens of the smoking coffeeshops are Dutch. If Amsterdam is a latter-day Sodom and Gomorrah, it’s one mainly for visitors. The uniquely Dutch combination of tolerance and individualism impacts areas of personal and social morality that in other countries are still red-button issues. In 2001, the world’s first same-sex marriage, with a legal status identical to that of heterosexual matrimony, took place in Amsterdam. The Dutch Parliament legalized regulated euthanasia (“mercy killing”), making the Netherlands the first country in the world to do so. And then there’s prostitution and drug use. Authorities are not duty bound to prosecute criminal acts, leaving a loophole for social experimentation in areas that technically are illegal. It has been wryly said that the Netherlands has one of the lowest crime rates in Europe because whenever something becomes a criminal problem, the Dutch make it legal. Don’t laugh—at least not in Holland—or you may find you’ve touched the natives where they’re tender. The Dutch will take aim at anyone, on any issue, outside their borders. Just so long as it’s understood that everything inside has arrived at that hallowed state of perfection. Popular opinion notwithstanding, narcotic drugs are illegal in the Netherlands. But the Dutch treat drug use mainly as a medical problem rather than purely as a crime. The authorities distinguish between soft drugs like cannabis, which are considered unlikely to cause addiction and pose a minor health risk, and hard drugs like heroin and cocaine, which are highly addictive and pose significant risks to users’ health. Both types are illegal, but the law is tougher on hard drugs. Ironically, improvements in Dutch cannabis cultivation techniques have increased the concentration of the active ingredient THC from 9% to 18% in the past 10 years. The Netherlands has significantly lower rates of heroin addiction, drug use, and addiction in general, and of drug-related deaths than Britain, France, Germany, and other European countries that criticize Holland so fiercely on this issue. Still, the Dutch “tradition” of allowing visitors to the country to pop into a “coffeeshop” to smoke an illegal but tolerated cannabis joint is under threat. A legal ruling has upheld the mayor of Maastricht’s decision to end cross-border “drugs tourism” into that town by banning foreigners from its smoking coffeeshops. Rosendaal and Bergen op Zoom, two additional border towns plagued by drugs tourists, have simply shut down all of their coffeeshops. The most serious threat comes from the coalition government elected in 2010, which has announced its intention to force all of the country’s surviving coffeeshops—their number reduced from a peak of close to 2,000 in 1997 to around 650, and still falling—to become members-only clubs. These would be open only to legal residents of the Netherlands, thereby shutting out the tens of thousands of drugs tourists who visit the country each year. With some Amsterdam coffeeshops claiming that 99% of their customers are tourists—though an overall estimate of 40% is widely accepted—it’s clear that many coffeeshops will be forced out of business if the proposals become law.

Prostitution is legal in Holland, and prostitutes work in clean premises, pay taxes, receive regular medical checks, are eligible for welfare, and have their own trade union. The streetwalker “heroin whores” need to be excluded from this ostensibly idyllic picture of the world’s oldest profession.

LOOKING BACK AT HOLLAND

Good for Business

Looking Back at Holland

By the 13th and 14th centuries, the nobility were busy building most of the castles and fortified manor houses throughout Holland that now attract tourists. Meanwhile the Catholic hierarchy grew both powerful and wealthy; the bishops of Maastricht and Utrecht played key roles in politics, and they preserved their legacy by erecting splendid cathedrals, abbeys, and monasteries. During the 14th and 15th centuries, Holland’s position at the mouths of the great west European rivers made it a focal point in power struggles. The House of Burgundy became the first major feudal power in the Low Countries, consolidating its hold on the region by acquiring fiefdoms one by one through the various means of marriage, inheritance, and military force. Its day soon passed, however, and the Austrian Habsburg emperor Maximilian acquired the Low Countries from the Burgundians by much the same means. Amsterdam began its rise to commercial prosperity in 1323, when the Count of Holland Floris VI established the city as one of two toll points for the import of beer. The city’s skillful merchants established guilds of craftsmen and put ships to sea to catch North Sea herring. They expanded into trade in salted Baltic herring, Norwegian salted and dried cod and cod-liver oil, German beer and salt, bales of linen and woolen cloth from the Low Countries and England, Russian furs and candle wax, Polish grain and flour, and Swedish timber and iron.

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The earliest inhabitants of what is now the Netherlands were three tribal groups who settled the marshy deltas of the Low Countries in the dawn of recorded history. They were the Belgae of the southern regions; the Batavii, who settled in the area of the Great Rivers; and the fiercely independent Frisii, who had taken up residence along the northern coast. Each tribe posed a challenge to Julius Caesar when he came calling in the 1st century b.c., but the Romans managed, after prolonged and effective objections from the locals, to get both the Belgae and the Batavii to knuckle under. Having seen off the Romans, the Frisians in the 5th century repelled the next wave of would-be conquerors, hordes of Saxons and Franks who had overrun the RomanoBatavians. Although the Franks in the late 5th century embraced Christianity, not until the late 8th century did the Frisians abandon their pagan gods, and then only when the mighty Charlemagne, king of the Franks and emperor of the West, compelled them to.

Wars of Religion Dutch citizens began to embrace the Protestant church at the same time that the Low Countries came under the rule of Charles V, the Catholic Habsburg emperor and king of Spain. Holland became a pressure point and fulcrum for the shifting political scene that the Reformation occasioned everywhere in Europe. The rigorous

BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG IN DEPTH

Looking Back at Holland

doctrines of John Calvin and his firm belief in the separation of church and state began to take root. When Charles relinquished the Spanish throne to his son Philip II in 1555, things took a nasty turn for the Dutch. An ardent Catholic, Philip was determined to defeat the Reformation and set out to hunt heretics throughout his empire. He dispatched the infamous duke of Alba to the Low Countries to carry out the Inquisition’s “death to heretics” edict. The Dutch resented Philip’s intrusion into their affairs and began a resistance movement, led by William of Orange, count of Holland, known as William the Silent, who loudly declared: “I cannot approve of princes attempting to control the conscience of their subjects and wanting to rob them of the liberty of faith.” Those towns that declined to join the fight were spared destruction when the Spanish invaded. Spanish armies marched inexorably through Holland, besting the defenses of each city to which they laid siege, with few exceptions. In an ingenious if desperate move in 1574, William saved Leiden by flooding the province, allowing his ships to sail right up to the city’s walls. This victory galvanized the Dutch in fighting for their independence. In 1579, the Dutch nobles formed the Union of Utrecht, in which they agreed to fight together in a united front. Although the union was devised solely to prosecute the battle against Spain, consolidation inevitably occurred, and by the turn of the 17th century, the seven northern provinces of what had been the Spanish Netherlands became the United Provinces. The struggle with Spain continued until 1648, but a new, prosperous era was about to begin.

The Golden Age Over the first 50 to 75 years of the 17th century, the legendary Dutch entrepreneurial gift would come into its own. These years have since become known as the Golden Age. It seemed every business venture the Dutch initiated during this time turned a profit and that each of their many expeditions to the unknown places of the world resulted in a new jewel in the Dutch trading empire. Colonies and trade were established to provide the luxury-hungry merchants at home with new delights, such as fresh ginger from Java, foxtails from America, fine porcelain from China, and flower bulbs from Turkey that produced big, bright, waxy flowers and grew quite readily in Holland’s sandy soil—tulips. Holland was getting rich.

Beating the Dutch The 17th-century Dutch got up English noses by competing for maritime trade and, in 1667, by sailing boldly up the Medway near London and trashing the English fleet. So the English added verbal abuse to their arsenal. That’s why we have “Dutch courage” (alcohol-induced

courage), “Dutch treat” (you pay for yourself), “going Dutch” (everybody pays their share), and “double Dutch” (gibberish). Americans were kinder to their Revolutionary War supporters, speaking of “beating the Dutch” (doing something remarkable).

Decline & Fall

Modern Times The Netherlands escaped the worst ravages of World War I by maintaining strict neutrality. Holland shared in the wealth as Europe’s condition improved, but conditions were very bad during the 1930s, when the widespread unemployment brought on by the Great Depression caused the government to use the army in 1934 to control the unruly masses. During World War II, Nazi troops invaded the country in 1940. An estimated 104,000 of Holland’s 140,000 Jews were murdered, Rotterdam sustained heavy bombings, and the rest of the country suffered terribly at the hands of its invaders. The Dutch operated one of the most effective underground movements in Europe,

Looking Back at Holland

Revolutionary France invaded Holland in 1794, capturing Amsterdam and establishing the Batavian Republic in 1795, headed by the pro-French Dutch Patriots. Napoleon brought the short-lived republic to an end in 1806 by setting up his brother, Louis Napoleon, as king of the Netherlands, and installed him in a palace that had been Amsterdam’s Town Hall. Louis did such a good job of representing the interests of his new subjects that in 1810 Napoleon deposed him and brought the Netherlands formally into the empire. When the Dutch recalled the House of Orange in 1814, it was to fill the role of king in a constitutional monarchy. The monarch was yet another William of Orange; however, because his reign was to be a fresh start, the Dutch started numbering their Williams all over again (which makes for a very confusing history). Then came Waterloo in 1815 and Napoleon’s final defeat.

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Amsterdam grew into one of the world’s great cities. In 1602, traders from each of the major cities in the Republic of the Seven Provinces set up the Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie (V.O.C.), the United East India Company, which was granted a monopoly on trade in the East. It was wildly successful and established the Dutch presence in the Spice Islands (Indonesia), Goa, South Africa, and China. Holland was becoming a refuge for persecuted groups. The Pilgrims stopped in Leiden for a dozen years before embarking for America, Jews fled the oppressive Spanish and welcomed the tolerance of the Dutch, and refugees straggled in from France and Portugal. William the Silent had helped create a climate of tolerance in Holland, which attracted talented newcomers who contributed to the expanding economic, social, artistic, and intellectual climate of the country. Golden Age Holland can be compared to Renaissance Italy and Classical Greece for the great flowering that transformed society. “There is perhaps no other example of a complete and highly original civilization springing up in so short a time in so small a territory,” wrote the historian Simon Schama. The Dutch call 1672 the Rampjaar (Year of Disaster). France, under Louis XIV, invaded the United Provinces by land and the English attacked by sea. This war (1672–78) and the later War of the Spanish Succession (1701–13) drained the country’s wealth and morale. The buccaneering, can-do, go-anywhere spirit of traders, artists, and writers began to ebb, replaced by conservatism and closed horizons.

Dutch Heights

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Holland’s Art & Architecture

Maybe it’s nature’s way of compensating for their country being attitudinally challenged, but the Dutch are tall. The average man is 1.8m (6 ft.) and the average woman is 1.7m (5 ft., 7 in.), which in both cases is 5 centimeters

(2 in.) more than the European average. Not only that, but a government study showed that the average height of the Dutch increases by 1.5 centimeters (1⁄2 in.) every decade.

which became an important factor in the liberation in 1945. Among those murdered in the Nazi terror was a teenage girl who came to symbolize many other victims of the Holocaust: Anne Frank (1929–45). In the 1960s, Amsterdam was a hotbed of political and cultural radicalism. Hippies trailing clouds of marijuana smoke took over the Dam and camped out in Vondelpark and in front of Centraal Station. Radical political activity, which began with “happenings” staged by a group known as the Provos, continued and intensified. In 1966, the Provos were behind the protests that disrupted the wedding of Princess Beatrix to German Claus von Amsberg in the Westerkerk; they threw smoke bombs and fighting broke out between protesters and police. The Provos disbanded in 1967, but much of their program was adopted by the Kabouters, or Green Gnomes. This group won several seats on the city council, but they, too, eventually faded. The Provos and Green Gnomes had long advocated environmental programs like prohibiting all motor vehicles from the city. They persuaded authorities to provide 20,000 white-painted bicycles free for citizens’ use—this scheme was abandoned when most of the bicycles were stolen, to reappear in freshly painted colors as “private” property. Some of their ideas very nearly came to fruition. In 1992, the populace voted to create a traffic-free zone in the center city, but this has yet to be realized.

HOLLAND’S ART & ARCHITECTURE Art The 17th century was the undisputed Golden Age of Dutch art. During this busy time, artists were blessed with wealthy patrons whose support allowed them to give free reign to their talents. Art held a cherished place in the hearts of average Dutch citizens, too. The Dutch were particularly fond of pictures that depicted their world: landscapes, seascapes, domestic scenes, portraits, and still lifes. The art of this period remains some of the greatest ever created. One of the finest landscape painters of all time was Jacob van Ruysdael (1628– 82), who depicted cornfields, windmills, and forest scenes, along with his famous views of Haarlem. In some of his works, the human figure is very small, and in others it does not appear at all; instead the artist typically devoted two-thirds of the canvas to the vast skies filled with the moody clouds that float over the flat Dutch terrain. Frans Hals (1581–1666), the undisputed leader of the Haarlem school, specialized in portraiture. The relaxed relationship between the artist and his subject

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in his paintings was a great departure from the formal masks of Renaissance portraits. With the lightness of his brushstrokes, Hals was able to convey an immediacy and intimacy. It’s worth visiting the Frans Hals Museum (p.332) in Haarlem to study his techniques. One of the geniuses of western art was Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn (1606–69). This highly prolific and influential artist had a dramatic life filled with success and personal tragedy. Rembrandt was a master at showing the soul and inner life of humankind, in both his portraits and illustrations of biblical stories. His most famous work, the group portrait known as The Night Watch (1642), is on view in the Rijksmuseum (p.301) in Amsterdam. A spirituality reigns over his self-portraits as well; Rembrandt did about 60 of these during his lifetime. The Self-Portrait with Saskia shows the artist with his wife during prosperous times, when he was often commissioned by wealthy merchants to do portraits. But later self-portraits show his transition from an optimist to a careworn old man. At the Rembrandt House in Amsterdam—which has been restored to much the way it was when the artist lived and worked there—you can see the above selfportrait along with some 250 etchings. Perhaps the best known of the “Little Dutch Masters,” who restricted themselves to one type of painting, such as portraiture, is Jan Vermeer (1632–75) of Delft. The main subjects of Vermeer’s work are the activities and pleasures of simple home life. Vermeer placed the figure(s) at the center of his paintings, and typically used the background space to convey a feeling of stability and serenity. Vermeer excelled at reproducing the lighting of his interior scenes. If Vincent van Gogh (1853–90) had not failed as a missionary in the Borinage mining region of Belgium, he might not have turned to painting and become the greatest Dutch artist of the 19th century. The Potato Eaters (1885) was van Gogh’s first masterpiece. This rough, crudely painted work shows a group of peasants gathered around the table for their evening meal after a long day of manual labor. Gone are the traditional beauty and serenity of earlier Dutch genre painting. In 1888, Vincent traveled to Arles in Provence, where he was dazzled by the Mediterranean sun. His favorite color, yellow, which signified love to him, dominated landscapes such as Wheatfield with a Reaper (1889). For the next 2 years, he remained in the south of France, painting at a frenetic pace in between bouts of madness. The Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam (p.304) has more than 200 of his paintings. Before Piet Mondrian (1872–1944) became an originator of De Stijl (or neoplasticism), he painted windmills, cows, and meadows. His Impressionistic masterpiece, The Red Tree (1909)—which looks as though it’s bursting into flames against a background of blue—marked a turning point in his career. With Theo van Doesburg, Mondrian began a magazine in 1917 entitled De Stijl (The Style) in which he expounded the principles of neoplasticism: a simplification of forms or, in other words, a purified abstraction; an art that would be derived “not from exterior vision but from interior life.”

Architecture In the 16th and 17th centuries, the strap and scroll ornament became quite popular. A fluid form, it frames a facade’s top and resembles curled leather. The step gable, a nonclassical element resembling a small staircase (with varying numbers of

A New School

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The Lay of the Land

Between 1900 and 1940, various Amsterdam architects purveyed many different styles of architecture. One of these styles stands out above the others: The Amsterdam school of architects succeeded in creating forms of

brickwork that had existed only in earlier architects’ fantasies. Their buildings are massive yet fluid, and feature decorations like stained glass, wrought iron, and corner towers.

steps and varying step heights), was used on many of the buildings you see as you walk along the canals today. Often you find step gables of this period augmented by Renaissance features, such as vases and masks. Hendrick de Keyser (1565–1621), an architect who worked in Amsterdam at the height of the Renaissance, is known for using decorative, playful elements in a way that was practical to the structure. For instance, he combined hard yellow or white sandstone decorative features (like volutes, keystones, and masks) with soft red brick, creating a visually stimulating multicolored facade, while utilizing the sandstone as protection from rain erosion. Philips and Justus Vingboons were architects and brothers who worked in the Renaissance style; while walking along Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and Prinsengracht, you’ll see many of their buildings. With them the medieval stepped gable gave way to a more ornate one with scrolled sides, decorative finials, and other features. Because classical elements tend to have straight lines and don’t flow like the Renaissance elements did, facades shifted to a more boxed-in, central look. Jacob van Campen (1595–1657), who built the elaborate Town Hall at the Dam, now the Royal Palace, was probably the single most important architect of Amsterdam architecture’s classical period. Around 1665, Adriaan Dortsman (1625–82), best known for his classic restrained Dutch style, began building homes with balconies and attics, leaving off the pilasters and festoons that adorned earlier facades.

THE LAY OF THE LAND For all that the Bible says otherwise, the Dutch insist the Creation took 8 days, not 7—on the eighth day they reclaimed their country from the sea with their own hands. “God made the earth,” they tell you, “and the Dutch made Holland.” The all-important dikes, which hold back the sea, began to evolve as far back as the 1st century a.d., when the country’s earliest inhabitants settled on unprotected coastal wetlands in the northern regions of Friesland and Groningen. These settlers first attempted to defend their land by building huge earthen mounds (terpen) on which they constructed their homes during recurring floods. Around the 8th and 9th centuries, they were building proper dikes; by the end of the 13th century, entire coastal regions were enclosed by dikes that held back unruly rivers and the sea. If you think a dike is a high wall, you’ll be surprised to see that, actually, many of them are great mounds of earth and stone that extend for miles. Indeed, many of the roads you travel on are built along the tops of dikes.

Books If a single individual may be said to “personify” the Holocaust—a status that is surely an unbearable burden—that person must be Anne Frank. Her diary, compiled as a series of letters addressed “Dear Kitty” and kept for more than 2 years until her arrest on August 4, 1944, has come to symbolize the plight of millions of Jews during the Nazi terror. The Diary of a Young Girl (1947) includes photos of Anne and the people she hid with, plus a map of the secret annex in the house on Prinsengracht. For a personal insight into Vincent van Gogh’s life and art, read Ken Wilkie’s The van Gogh File: A Journey of Discovery (1990). What began as a routine magazine assignment in 1972 to coincide with the opening of the Van Gogh Museum became exactly what the book’s subtitle indicates: A journey that continued long after the article was published. Wilkie followed van Gogh’s trail through the Netherlands, Belgium, England, and France. Along the way, Wilkie met some of the last surviving people to have known or met the artist. The Booker Prize–winning short novel Amsterdam (1998) plays with themes of love and friendship, death and mortality, and on Amsterdam’s status as a city where euthanasia laws are relatively liberal, but most of it actually takes place in England. In that sense, the city is more of a city of the mind than a real place.

Holland in Popular Culture

HOLLAND IN POPULAR CULTURE

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Around half of the country’s land area has been reclaimed from the sea, lakes, and marshes. Some 2,600 sq. km (1,000 sq. miles) of the country was underwater just 100 years ago. Approximately 25% of Holland, an area that holds about two-thirds of its people, now lies below sea level, protected from flooding only by sand dunes, dikes, and Dutch engineering ingenuity. The solid, timeless buildings of Amsterdam and other cities stand where waves should, by all rights, be lapping. In 1953, devastating North Sea storms broke through the dikes in many places along Holland’s southwest coast, flooding significant areas. There was a substantial loss of life and property. To assure greater protection along its coastal areas, Holland embarked upon a long-range Delta Project to seal off the river estuaries in the southwest of the country. In flat Holland, wind is ever present, so it is not surprising that the Dutch have made use of windmills to do their hard labor, from pumping water off the land to drain polders, to milling grain and sawing timber. Nowadays you’re as likely to see the whirling blades of wind turbines, generating a growing proportion of the nation’s electrical power. Anyway, Holland still exists, despite worries about global warming and rising sea levels. Still, the government is considering bolstering the sea defenses to handle a 1-in-100,000-years superstorm, a tenfold increase over the current standard. Should holding back the tides turn out to be a lost cause, a possible solution is floating homes. Several hundred are being constructed at the IJburg development east of Amsterdam, on the IJsselmeer’s southern shore. Made from timber and aluminum on a base of polystyrene-filled concrete, floating homes might one day keep Dutch heads above water.

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Eating & Drinking in Holland

Far more sense of place is provided by Nicolas Freeling’s Love in Amsterdam (1962), the first in his series of Inspector Piet Van der Valk detective novels, and even though it’s the Amsterdam of almost a half century ago, the city is easily recognizable, and something of a co-protagonist. Much the same could be said of Alistair MacLean’s thriller Puppet on a Chain (1969). Simon Schama’s The Embarrassment of Riches: An Interpretation of Dutch Culture in the Golden Age (1987) lets you inside Amsterdam’s greatest period. Schama, adeptly, is simultaneously lighthearted and scholarly—a chapter headed “The Pretzel and the Puppy Dog” refers to a portrait by Jacob Cuyp. Most of the 700 pages feature works of art that are explained in the text. Schama succeeds in his intention “to map out the moral geography of the Dutch mind, adrift between the fear of deluge and the hope of moral salvage.”

Film Amsterdam-born film director Paul Verhoeven is probably the best-known Dutch filmmaker—though that doesn’t mean that Verhoeven’s Hollywood films, such as Basic Instinct, RoboCop, and Starship Troopers, contain much (if anything) inspired by his hometown. Closer to home is his wartime resistance drama Soldier of Orange (1977), starring Jeroen Krabbé and Rutger Hauer. Another wartime drama, The Assault, won the Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film in 1986. Amsterdam starred as the darkly atmospheric setting of the underworld in the thriller Puppet on a Chain (1972), based on the novel of the same name by Scottish writer Alistair MacLean—which contained a memorable chase sequence on the canals. And it played a supporting role in the James Bond movie Diamonds Are Forever (1971). In Girl with a Pearl Earring (2003), Scarlett Johansson and Colin Firth star in an appropriately moody interpretation of the “backstory” to the Vermeer painting, set and partly filmed in Delft. Should you want to dine on a movie set, head for Chinese restaurant Nam Kee in Amsterdam, which played a notable role in the Dutch red-hot romance flick De Oesters van Nam Kee (The Oysters of Nam Kee; 2002).

Music About the only well-known song in English to feature Holland in a starring role is “Tulips from Amsterdam” (1956), which was originally written in German. This dose of concentrated saccharine keeps the unlikely company of pot-smoking, sex-tourism, and gay parades as a popular image of the city. Kids might likely be more familiar with “A Windmill in Old Amsterdam” (1965), which tells a heart-warming tale of “a little mouse with clogs on, going clip-clippety-clop on the stair.” Hard to say for sure, but it could be that the most successful pop song in English by a Dutch band is “Venus,” released in 1969 by the group Shocking Blue. It reached number one on the U.S. charts and sold a million copies within a year. Bananarama had further success with their disco version in 1986.

EATING & DRINKING IN HOLLAND Dutch national dishes tend to be of the ungarnished, hearty, wholesome variety— solid, stick-to-your-ribs stuff. A perfect example is erwtensoep, a thick pea soup 30

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cooked with ham or sausage that provides inner warmth against cold Dutch winters and is filling enough to be a meal by itself. Similarly, hutspot, a potato-based “hotchpotch,” or stew, is no-nonsense nourishment to which klapstuk (lean beef) is sometimes added. Seafood, as you might imagine in this traditionally seafaring country, is always fresh and well prepared. Fried sole, oysters, and mussels from Zeeland, and herring (fresh in early June, pickled other months) are most common. In fact, if you happen to be in Holland for the beginning of the herring season, it’s an absolute obligation—at least once—to interrupt your sidewalk strolls to buy a “green” herring from a pushcart. The Dutch are uncommonly fond of oily freshwater eel (paling) and Zeeland oysters and mussels (Zeeuwse oesters and Zeeuwse mosselen), from September to March. At lunchtime you’re likely to find yourself munching on broodjes, small buttered rolls usually filled with ham and cheese or beef, although a broodje gezond (healthy sandwich) with cheese and vegetables is a good choice for vegetarians. Not to be missed are the delicious, filling pancakes called pannenkoeken, often eaten as a savory dish with bacon and cheese. Poffertjes are a sweet, lighter, penny-size version that are especially good topped with apples, jam, or syrup. Dutch gebak (pastries) are fresh, varied, and inexpensive; and you will notice the Dutch sitting down for a koffie and one of these delicious hapjes (small snacks, or literally, “bites”) throughout the day—why not join them? The popular Indonesian rijsttafel (rice table), a feast of 15 to 30 small portions of different dishes eaten with plain rice, has been a national favorite ever since it arrived in the 17th century. If you’ve never experienced this minifeast, it should definitely be on your “must-eat” list for Holland—the basic idea behind the rijsttafel is to sample a wide variety of complementary flavors, textures, and temperatures: savory and sweet, spicy and mild. For authentic Dutch dishes, look for the neerlands dis sign, which identifies restaurants specializing in the native cuisine. Then there are the numerous moderately priced restaurants and the brown cafes, which are cozy social centers with simple but tasty food, sometimes served outside on sidewalk tables in good weather. Sidewalk vendors, with fresh herring and the ubiquitous broodjes (sandwiches) or other light specialties, are popular as well. Though there’s no such thing as a free lunch, there is the next best thing—a dagschotel (plate of the day) and dagmenu (menu of the day). Another way to combat escalating dinner tabs is to take advantage of the tourist menu offered by many restaurants.

Beer, Gin & Wine What to drink? Beer, for one thing. As you make the rounds of the brown cafes (traditional Dutch watering holes), you can get regular brands such as Heineken, Grolsch, or Amstel, or you could try something different. I happen to like the witte (white) beer, like Wiekse Witte, which is sweeter than pils, the regular beer. Then there is the potent native gin known as jenever (the name comes from the Dutch word for “juniper”), a fiery, colorless spirit distilled from grain or malt, served ice cold and drunk neat—without any mixer, or even ice. It was once the drink of the masses in Holland, where it originated as a kind of medicine.

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Luxembourg Today

There are even Dutch wines, perfectly respectable, though produced in modest quantities by 150 wineries around the country. Total annual production is some 800,000 liters (211,000 U.S. gallons/176,000 imperial gallons). Some of the finest wines are produced by the Apostelhoeve (www.apostelhoeve.nl), Hoeve Nekum (www.hoevenekum.nl), and Château Neercanne (www.chateauhotels.nl) vineyards, near Maastricht, close by the Belgian border.

LUXEMBOURG TODAY The Grand Duchy of Luxembourg is a constitutional monarchy headed by Grand Duke Henri of the House of Nassau. Economically, the strength of its banking and financial institutions has attracted more than 200 foreign banks, including the headquarters of the European Investment Bank. The 500,000 residents have among the highest income levels per capita of any country in the world. Agriculture is still important. Around half of the total land area is farmed, though less than 5% of Luxembourgers now live and work on farms. Despite problems caused by overproduction of European wines in general, the vineyards of Luxembourg’s Moselle Valley are still competitive. And the enchanting Luxembourg countryside, particularly its northern reaches in the Ardennes, is a popular vacation destination for Luxembourgers and visitors from neighboring countries. Having played a key role in establishing the institutions that evolved into the European Union, Luxembourg today hosts the secretariat of the European Parliament, the European Court of Justice, and the European Investment Bank.

The Luxembourgers In such a small country, with bigger neighbors on its doorstep, Luxembourgers have a distinctive individuality that even extends to the national language, Lëtzebuergesch, which is vaguely related to both French and German, yet quite different from both. Some of their character traits are easy to pin down. They’re definitely hardworking. One look at the country’s well-tended farms or shops will reveal the industriousness of their owners. Go into a Luxembourg home and the cleanliness and order will speak more loudly than the proud homemaker ever could. The people of Luxembourg are cosmopolitan. From their cuisine (a combination of the best from surrounding countries) to their culture and dress, they’re at home in the world, eager to travel, and secure enough in their uniqueness to appreciate the special qualities of others. But in addition to this openness, they’re essentially proud and patriotic. Centuries of domination by foreign rulers could not kill their independent spirit. They do have a reputation for smugness that’s not entirely undeserved: If you are a citizen of one of the world’s wealthiest countries per capita, it may be no more than human nature to assume that this pleasing fact is due to your own native industry or superiority, rather than to, for instance, enabling the citizens of lessblessed countries—like Germany and France, to name but two of many—to engage in fiscal fiddling and stash the illicit proceeds in your banks. Some 95% of Luxembourgers are Roman Catholic. Although a significant percentage of those hasten to make it clear that they’re nonpracticing, it’s rare to meet someone who doesn’t observe some of the customs, traditions, and mores of the church. Finally, to say that Luxembourgers are fond of eating is an understatement. If there’s

an important matter to discuss, decision to be made, or social crisis to resolve, Luxembourgers repair to the nearest cafe or pastry store. It goes without saying, then, that they’re fond of cooking—don’t leave without indulging in their luscious pastries.

LOOKING BACK AT LUXEMBOURG

By the 12th century, the counts of Luxembourg were at the helm. They enlarged their territory by wars with other noblemen, astute marriages, and diplomatic shenanigans. When Henry the Blind’s daughter, Countess Ermesinda, reached adulthood in the early 1200s, things were in disarray. But Ermesinda was able to restore some of Luxembourg’s lost territory through a few marriages, as she inherited lands previously held

A Luxembourg Artist The Expressionist painter Joseph Kutter (1894–1941) was among Luxembourg’s most important 20th-century artists. As is often the way, Kutter was largely unappreciated in his homeland until after his death, being more highly regarded in neighboring France, Belgium, and

Looking Back at Luxembourg

Enlightened Female Rule

BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG IN DEPTH

Long before recorded history, the territory of today’s Grand Duchy was home to Magdalenian and Celtic tribes. The Treveri, a fierce Celtic people who resisted invaders to the death, finally fell in the 1st century b.c. to Roman legions. Thereafter, one Roman emperor after another put down numerous uprisings of the independentminded inhabitants, who stubbornly refused to give up their worship of Druidism for the paganism of Rome. As a declining Rome suffered military defeats, the Roman hold on the region weakened. By the 5th century, the only reminders of the Romans left in Luxembourg were the bits and pieces of their urban civilization, a network of bridges, and place names like Ettelbruck (Attila’s Bridge), named for the Hun warlord who dealt the knockout blow to the Western Roman Empire. Luxembourg was by then firmly in the camp of the Franks. Along with monasteries that sprang up and flourished came educational and cultural influences that helped form the foundation of today’s Luxembourg. The great Frankish leader Charlemagne brought in Saxons to settle the Ardennes, thus adding another ethnic imprint to the face of the region. In the 10th century, Siegfried, the youngest of the counts of the Ardennes, built his castle on the ruins of Castellum Lucilinburhuc, an ancient Roman fort that had guarded the crossroads of the important roads from Paris to Trier and from Metz to Aix-la-Chapelle (Aachen). On that strategic spot grew a town and eventually a country by the name of Luxembourg.

Germany. Among works by Kutter than can be viewed in the Musée National d’Histoire et d’Art (p.496) in Luxembourg City are Self-Portrait in a Red Shirt (1919), Reclining Nude (1919), and Venice (1924).

Modern Art & Architecture

BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG IN DEPTH

Looking Back at Luxembourg

One of the most distinguished works of modern architecture in Luxembourg City, the Museum of Modern Art, opened in 2006. The Musée d’Art Moderne Grand-Duc Jean (p.498), better

known as MUDAM, was designed by Chinese-American architect Ieoh Ming Pei. It sits atop a 17th-century fortification designed by Vauban.

by her ailing spouses. When her last husband died in 1225, she boldly took charge of the affairs of state. Her legacy was a united nation with enlightened social standards.

Imperial Glory In 1308, Henry VII of the House of Luxembourg became emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. He spent the rest of his life trying to unite all of Europe under his rule; by the time his great-grandson, Wenceslas, gained the throne, the House of Luxembourg ruled a territory some 500 times the size of today’s Luxembourg. The glory days did not last long, however. King Wenceslas’s son, Sigismund, was far less capable than his ancestors. By the mid-1400s, Luxembourg itself was a province ruled by the dukes of Burgundy. During the next 400 years, that rule shifted among Spain, France, and Austria.

A Strong Place To quell the locals’ growing unrest, each successive ruler found it necessary to further strengthen a capital city that was already one of Europe’s best defended. Luxembourg, then, became a problem for the rest of Europe: Its position was too strategic and its fortifications too strong to allow it to be self-governing—or even to be controlled by any one nation. The answer seemed to be to divide Luxembourg among several nations; therein, the Congress of Vienna in 1815 handed over most of the country to Holland’s William of Orange-Nassau, and the remainder to Prussia. Then, with the Treaty of London in 1839, more than half of Holland’s piece of Luxembourg was given to Belgium (the resulting Belgian province still bears the name Luxembourg). Still, its many fortifications made it all but impregnable, so in 1867 the European powers convened in London and decided that freedom would be granted the Grand Duchy on condition that its fortifications be dismantled. Luxembourgers were overjoyed. In October 1868, they affirmed a constitution that boldly proclaimed “the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg forms a free state, independent and indivisible.”

War & Peace Twice—in World War I and World War II—Luxembourg suffered military occupation. In the winter of 1944 to 1945, part of the Battle of the Bulge was fought in the Ardennes region of northern Luxembourg. General George S. Patton’s Third Army turned the tide of that battle, with an assault that relieved the besieged U.S. 101st Airborne Division at Bastogne in Belgium. The little country didn’t just work to rebuild itself in the postwar years: In 1945, Luxembourg joined the United Nations; in 1948, it formed a customs union called Benelux with Belgium and the Netherlands that later became an economic union; and in 1949, it was a founding member of NATO.

EATING & DRINKING IN LUXEMBOURG 2 BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG IN DEPTH

Among the national favorites are some of the best pastries you’re ever likely to eat; delicious Luxembourg cheese; trout, crayfish, and pike from local rivers; Ardennes ham smoked in saltpeter; hare, wild boar, and other game during the hunting season; and in September, lovely small plum tarts called quetsch. Other tasty treats include the national dish of smoked neck of pork with broad beans (judd mat gaardebounen); a friture of fried small river fish such as bream, chub, gudgeon, roach, and rudd; calves’ liver dumplings (quenelles) with sauerkraut and boiled potatoes; black pudding (treipen) and sausages with mashed potatoes and horseradish; and a green-bean soup (bouneschlupp). French cuisine features prominently on restaurant menus, and German and Belgian influences make their presence felt. Winemaking along the Moselle has a history that dates back to the Romans. And, of course, the Moselle wines (mostly white) will top any list. Look for riesling, pinot gris, pinot noir, pinot blanc, auxerrois, rivaner, elbling, gewürztraminer, and crémant de Luxembourg, and for the National Mark, which certifies that they’re true Luxembourg wines. In beers, look for such brand names as unfiltered Mousel (pronounced Mooz-ell), Bofferding, and Henri Funck.

Eating & Drinking in Luxembourg

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG

efore any trip, most of us like to do a bit of planning. The three Benelux countries are not hard to come to grips with even if you arrive cold (in the preparedness

sense). They are foreign, of course, but not impossibly so, especially since many Belgians, Dutch, and Luxembourgers speak at least some English. The local tourist organizations pride themselves on being able to answer any conceivable travel question, excepting only those that are illegal, and aid any conceivable traveler, excepting only those of doubtful moral standing (and in the case of Holland, both of these provisos leave plenty of wiggle room).

The information in this chapter is intended to cover a trip to Benelux in general, and should be useful whether you are visiting one, two, or all three of them. Yet, close together though they are, they are still three separate nations. For additional help in planning your trip—when to go, what the weather’s like—and for more on-the-ground resources in Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg, please turn to the “Planning” chapters for the three countries (chapters 5, 12, and 19), along with chapter 21, “Fast Facts.”

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passports Citizens of the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand need only a valid passport for a visit of less than 3 months to Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg. If you’re a citizen of another country, be sure to check the travel regulations before you leave. It is advised to always have at least one or two consecutive blank pages in your passport to allow space for visas and stamps that need to appear together. It is also important to note when your passport expires.

Visas Citizens of the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand need only a valid passport for a visit to a Benelux country of less than 3 months. If you’re a citizen of another country, be sure to check the travel regulations before you leave. You can get these in English from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in the three Benelux countries: www.diplomatie.be for Belgium; www.minbuza.nl for Holland; and www.mae.lu for Luxembourg.

WHAT YOU CAN BRING INTO BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG Duty-free shopping has been abolished in all European Union countries, so standard allowances do not apply to goods purchased in one EU country and brought into another. In this case, there are no import limitations for most goods for personal use, but the following guideline limits may apply (above these limits, you could be asked to prove the goods are for personal use): 800 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, 200 cigars, and 1 kilogram of tobacco; 10 liters of liquor, 20 liters of aperitifs (port and so on), 90 liters of wine (of which 60 liters may be sparkling wine), and 110 liters of beer. Travelers 17 and older residing in a country outside the European Union can bring in, free of duty, 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco; 1 liter of liquor or 2 liters of sparkling or fortified wine; 4 liters of wine and 16 liters of beer; 50 milliliters/grams of perfume; and 250 milliliters of eau de toilette. Import of most other goods is unlimited, so long as import duty is paid on amounts above the exempt allowance: 430€ for visitors arriving by air and sea, 300€ for visitors arriving by other transportation, and 175€ for children 14 and under. Forbidden products include firearms, counterfeit goods, banned narcotic substances, and protected animals and plants and products made from these.

Entry Requirements

Customs

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg require your passport to have at least 3 months left, in addition to the length of your intended stay, before its expiration to allow you into the Benelux. For Residents of Australia: Contact the Australian Passport Office, R.G. Casey Building, John McEwen Crescent, Barton, ACT, 0221 (&131-232; www. passports.gov.au). For Residents of Canada: Contact Passport Canada, Place du Centre, 200 Promenade du Portage, Commercial Level 2, Gatineau, QC K1A 0G3 (&800/5676868; www.ppt.gc.ca). For Residents of Ireland: Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (& 01/671-1633 or 1890/426-888; www.foreign affairs.gov.ie). For Residents of New Zealand: Contact the Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (&0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz). For Residents of the United Kingdom: Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (&0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk). For Residents of the United States: To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (&877/487-2778) for automated information.

For more information, contact: Belgian Customs (&02/422-11-91, or 32-2/422-11-91 from outside Belgium; http://fiscus.fgov.be). Netherlands Customs (& 0800/0143, or 31-45/574-3031 from outside the Netherlands; www.douane.nl). Luxembourg Customs (&290-19-11, or 352/290-19-11 from outside Luxembourg; www.do.etat.lu).

WHAT YOU CAN TAKE HOME FROM BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

Getting There & Getting Around

For information on what you’re allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies: U.S.: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (&877/287-8667, or 1-877/287-8667 from outside the U.S.; www.cbp.gov). Canada: Canada Border Services Agency, 410 Laurier Ave. W., Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (& 800/461-9999, or 1-204/983-3500 from outside Canada; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). U.K.: HM Revenue & Customs, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (&0845/010-9000, or 44-20/8929-0152 from outside the U.K.; www. hmrc.gov.uk). Ireland: Irish Revenue’s Customs Division, St. Conlon’s Road, Nenagh, Co. Tipperary (&1890/666-333, or 353-67/63400 from outside Ireland; www.revenue.ie). Australia: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Avenue, Canberra, ACT 2601 (& 1300/363-263, or 61-2/6275-6666 from outside Australia; www.customs.gov.au). New Zealand: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 1 Hinemoa St., Harbour Quays, Wellington 6140 (&0800/428-786, or 64-9/300-5399 from outside New Zealand; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements No health and vaccination certificates are required. You don’t need any shots before your trip, but if you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure.

GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND Getting to the Benelux BY PLANE Brussels Airport (BRU), 11km (7 miles) northeast of the center city, is Belgium’s main, and very nearly only, international airport. It has direct train connection to Brussels and from there to Bruges, Ghent, Antwerp, and other Belgian cities; to Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and The Hague; and to Luxembourg City. It is the hub for Brussels Airlines and is served by many international carriers. See “Orientation,” in chapter 6. Brussels South Charleroi Airport (CRL), 46km (29 miles) south of Brussels, is served by budget airline Ryanair. Antwerp International Airport (ANR), just outside Antwerp to the east, is served primarily by the small Flemish carrier VLM, which operates a handful of European routes.

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) is Holland’s only real international airport. It is 13km (8 miles) southwest of Amsterdam’s center city, and it has quick, direct train links to Amsterdam; to Rotterdam, The Hague, Utrecht, and other Dutch cities; and to Antwerp and Brussels. Schiphol is the hub of the Netherlands flag carrier KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, which has merged with Air France. See “Orientation,” in chapter 13. Holland has other airports at Rotterdam (RTM), Maastricht (MST), Eindhoven (EIN), Groningen (GRQ), and Enschede (ENS), all of which handle a few regional flights and charters. Luxembourg Airport (LUX), the sole airport of the tiny Grand Duchy, is 6km (4 miles) northeast of Luxembourg City. See “Essentials” under “Luxembourg City,” in chapter 20. To find out which airlines travel to Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg, see “Airline Websites,” p.522.

Getting There & Getting Around

You might sail onboard a cruise-liner into the ocean terminal at Amsterdam, Rotterdam, or Antwerp, or on a European river-cruiser to any number of Benelux’s inland and seacoast ports. More likely, though, you’ll arrive onboard a car-ferry—likely a giant “cruise-ferry”—from Britain. TO BELGIUM P&O Ferries (&08716/64-20-20 in Britain, or 070/70-77-71 in Belgium; www.poferries.com) has daily car-ferry service between Hull in northeast England and Zebrugge. The overnight travel time is 14 to 15 hours. Trains shuttle between nearby Zeebrugge-Strand and Zeebrugge-Dorp stations and Bruges (Brugge) station, a 20-minute ride, from where there are hourly trains to Brussels, Ghent, and Antwerp. Buses shuttle between the Zeebrugge ferry terminal and Bruges (Brugge) station. Transeuropa Ferries (& 01843/595522 in Britain, or 059/34-02-60 in Belgium; www.transeuropaferries.com) has three car-ferry sailings daily, from Ramsgate in southern England to Ostend; the travel time is 4 hours. This service transports only cars and other commercial and noncommercial vehicles along with their drivers and passengers; foot passengers aren’t accepted. TO THE NETHERLANDS Stena Line (&08447/707070 in Britain, or 0174/ 315-811 in Holland; www.stenaline.co.uk) has twice-daily car-ferry service between Harwich in southeast England and Hoek van Holland (Hook of Holland), near Rotterdam. The travel time during the day is 61⁄4 hours, and 7 hours overnight. Frequent trains depart from Hoek van Holland Haven station to Rotterdam and Amsterdam. P&O Ferries (& 08716/64-20-20 in Britain, or 020/200-8333 in Holland; www.poferries.com) has daily car-ferry service between Hull in northeast England and Rotterdam (into Europoort harbor). The overnight travel time is 11 to 12 hours. Ferry company buses shuttle between the Rotterdam Europoort terminal and Rotterdam Centraal Station, from where there are frequent trains to Amsterdam. DFDS Seaways (&0871/522-0955 in Britain, or 0330/333-0245 in Holland; www.dfdsseaways.co.uk) has daily car-ferry service between Newcastle in northeast England and IJmuiden on the North Sea coast, 24km (15 miles) west of Amsterdam. The overnight travel time is 151⁄2 hours. From IJmuiden, you can go by special bus to Amsterdam Centraal Station.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

BY BOAT

BY TRAIN

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

Getting There & Getting Around

Rail service to the Benelux countries by international trains from major European cities is frequent and, at least in the case of the various high-speed trains, fast. Britain is connected to the Continent (or, as the Brits might say, the Continent is connected to Britain) through the Channel Tunnel. On the Eurostar high-speed train, with a top speed of 300kmph (186 mph), travel times between London’s St. Pancras station and Brussels’ Bruxelles-Midi station are around 2 hours. Departures are approximately every 2 hours. For Eurostar reservations, call &08432/186186 in Britain, or 02/528-28-28 in Belgium. Or book online at www.eurostar.com. Tickets also are available from main train stations and travel agents. On the Thalys high-speed train, travel time from Paris-Nord station to Brussels’s Bruxelles-Midi station is 1 hour and 20 minutes; from Bruxelles-Midi to Amsterdam Centraal Station (via Antwerp, Rotterdam, The Hague, and Schiphol Airport) is 1 hour and 50 minutes; and from Cologne to Bruxelles-Midi is 1 hour and 50 minutes. Departures are approximately every hour. For Thalys information and reservations in France, call &3635; in Belgium, &070/79-79-79; in Germany, &11861; and in Holland, & 0900/9296. Or book online at www.thalys.com. Tickets also are available from main rail stations and travel agents. Further high-speed train connections are the TGV, which arrives in Brussels from France (excluding Paris), and the ICE trains that speed into both Amsterdam and Brussels from Frankfurt, Germany. Direct, though relatively slow, international trains connect Luxembourg City with Brussels, Amsterdam, and Cologne. Of Europe’s high-speed international trains, only the TGV Est from Paris’s Gare de l’Est serves Luxembourg City, with seven or eight trains per day and a travel time of 2 hours and 5 minutes.

BY BUS Eurolines has the most comprehensive bus network in Europe. For reservations, call &08717/818181 in Britain, &02/274-13-50 in Belgium, or &020/560-8788 in the Netherlands. Or book online at www.eurolines.com. Up to four Eurolines buses depart daily from London’s Victoria bus station to Brussels’s Gare du Nord bus station, and up to four daily from London’s Victoria to Amsterdam’s Amstel station; travel time is 8 hours to Brussels and 12 hours to Amsterdam. Luxembourg City can be reached from London, with two departures a day, and from Amsterdam, both via Brussels; travel time is 13 hours from London and 7 hours from Amsterdam.

BY CAR The three countries are crisscrossed by a dense network of major highways connecting them with other European countries. These enter from France to the south and from Germany to the east. Traffic is very often heavy, but road conditions are generally excellent throughout the Benelux, distances between major population centers are short, service stations are plentiful, and highways are plainly signposted. The fast and efficient Eurotunnel (&08443/353535 in Britain; www.eurotunnel. com) auto-transporter trains transport your car through the Channel Tunnel from Folkestone, England, to Calais, France (a 35-min. trip). Departures are every 15 minutes at peak times, every 30 minutes at times of average demand, and every hour at night. See also “By Car” under “Getting Around the Benelux,” below.

Distances & Driving Times in the Benelux DISTANCE *

TIME

Brussels–Bruges

100km/62 miles

1 hr. 10 min.

Brussels–Ghent

56km/35 miles

45 min.

Brussels–Antwerp

55km/34 miles

45 min.

Brussels–Liège

97km/61 miles

1 hr. 5 min.

Brussels–Amsterdam

212km/132 miles

2 hr. 15 min.

Amsterdam–Rotterdam

80km/50 miles

1 hr. 5 min.

Amsterdam–Groningen

180km/112 miles

1 hr. 50 min.

Amsterdam–Arnhem

105km/65 miles

1 hr. 15 min.

Amsterdam–Maastricht

215km/134 miles

2 hr. 15 min.

Maastricht–Luxembourg City

198km/123 miles

2 hr.

* In all cases, the distance is the shortest direct route, going by expressway/ motorway as far as possible.

Getting Around the Benelux In order of priority, taking ease of use, convenience, time, and cost into account, the best ways to get around in the Benelux are by train, by car, and by bus.

BY TRAIN One of the best rail systems in the world operates in and between these small countries. There is virtually no spot so remote that it cannot easily be reached by trains that are fast, clean, and almost always on time. Furthermore, rail travel is a marvelous way to meet the locals, because the people of the Benelux countries spend as much time riding the rails as they do behind the wheel of an automobile. Schedules are exact—if a departure is set for 12:01pm, that means 12:01pm precisely, not 12:03pm—and station stops are sometimes as short as 3 or 4 minutes, which means you must be fleet of foot in getting on and off.

Getting There & Getting Around

Rail Passes An important consideration for anyone planning to travel a lot by train is an appropriate pass allowing reduced-rate travel. In addition to those referred to below, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg have discount rail passes for travel within their own country’s borders. In each country, there are many lower-cost options, including cheaper weekend and day returns, reductions for multiple journeys, and reductions for more than one passenger (not all options are available in each country). You should always ask about lower-cost options before buying. You’ll find more details in the “Planning” chapters of each country (chapters 5, 12, and 19). EURAIL PASSES The Eurailpass (www.eurail.com) allows residents of nonEuropean countries unlimited first-class travel throughout the rail systems of many European countries, including the Benelux countries, at a cost that starts out at $849 for 10 days. The Eurail Youth Pass gives you the same deal at discount rates and in second class, and there are other variations. These passes should be purchased before you leave home (they’re more expensive if you buy them in Europe) and are available from Rail Europe (&800/622-8600; www.raileurope.com) and from travel agents.

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

ROUTE

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

Getting There & Getting Around

BENELUX PASS If all or most of your travel within Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg will be by train—and provided you plan to travel by train a lot—a good investment may be the Eurail Benelux Pass, available through Rail Europe (see above) and through travel agents. It gives you unlimited travel in all three countries on any 5 days in a 1-month period. The pass costs $364 for first class and $248 for second class. Two to five adults traveling together should purchase instead the Eurail Benelux Saver Pass, to benefit from a discount of around 18%. For passengers ages 12 to 25, the Eurail Benelux Youth Pass (available in second class only) costs $166. Children ages 4 to 11 pay around half the adult fare, and children ages 3 and under ride free so long as they share a seat or berth with an adult. But if you’re not traveling far, or often, don’t bother with this pass. It’s hard to make it pay off because most trips in these three countries are so short and relatively cheap. Even if you cram in Amsterdam, Haarlem, Leiden, Delft, The Hague, Antwerp, Bruges, Ghent, and Brussels, you’ll still spend on point-to-point tickets less than you’d pay for a Benelux Pass.

BY CAR Traveling by car gives you the most freedom to ramble at your own speed, either on or off the beaten path. You’ll find information on specific requirements, rules of the road, gasoline prices, maps, automobile clubs, car rental agencies, and other driving assistance resources in the “Planning” chapters for each country (chapters 5, 12, and 19). The Benelux countries have a high density of population in relation to their size, so roads are busy. In addition, many drivers in the region have high-density road aggression, so driving can degenerate into a struggle for survival. The major roads are very often busiest precisely at the most popular vacation times, and accidents are not uncommon. Traffic congestion in Brussels, Bruges, Ghent, Antwerp, Amsterdam, Rotterdam— in fact, any Benelux city of any size—can cause monumental tie-ups. You’ll find it’s best to stash your car at your hotel garage and use local public transportation or walk. To drive in the Benelux lands, drivers need only produce a valid driver’s license from their home country. The minimum age for renting a car is generally 23, and the driver’s license should have been valid for at least 12 months. Virtually all major car rental agencies have offices in the three capital cities and some other large cities, though arranging a rental outside a metropolitan area can present problems. See also “By Car” under “Getting to the Benelux,” above, and “Responsible Tourism,” later in this chapter.

BY BUS Intercity bus service ranges from poor to nonexistent throughout the Benelux countries. This is not as bad as it sounds, because the rail network is among the best in the world, and fast, comfortable intercity trains do most of the work. If you really want to, you can travel intercity by bus, but the buses stop a lot en route, so trip times are long, and you often have to change at an intermediate town—for example, a trip from Brussels to Liège is two journeys: Brussels to Leuven and Leuven to Liège. Tourist offices and bus stations can furnish schedule and fare information. The exception to the avoid-the-bus rule is in sparsely populated places where there is little or no rail service, such as Zeeland in Holland and the Ardennes in Belgium and Luxembourg. In such areas, there are more regional bus services, though the buses still may be few and far between. In general, unless you have a specific reason for wanting to go by bus, you’ll always find it better to go by train.

All cities have excellent bus and/or tram (and in two cases, electric trolley bus) service. Some have metro (subway) service, which means you can easily leave your car at the hotel and avoid city driving woes.

BY PLANE The Benelux capitals are so close together that air travel is really not worth the added expense unless time is a vital factor (and even then you might still get there quicker by train). Air service is provided by KLM (&020/474-7747 in Holland; www.klm. com), and Brussels Airlines (&02/723-23-45 in Belgium; www.brusselsairlines. com). KLM flies from Amsterdam to both Brussels and Luxembourg City; Brussels Airlines flies from Brussels to Amsterdam.

BY BICYCLE

BY HITCHHIKING Hitchhiking is permitted (not encouraged) in Belgium and Luxembourg, though prohibited on highways (you can, however, stand on the approach road). It’s officially forbidden in Holland, but many a blind eye is turned by officialdom to those standing in a safe spot to hitchhike.

THE VALUE OF THE EURO VS. OTHER POPULAR CURRENCIES Euro (€)

US$

Can$

UK£

Aus$

NZ$

$1.33

C$1.34

£0.85

A$1.35

NZ$1.75

Money & Costs

MONEY & COSTS

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg are all ideal biking countries. In Holland, especially, and in parts of Flanders, there are often special bicycle tracks in towns and cities, and well-signed long-distance routes. You can also take your bike on a train. Rental bikes are usually available at major rail stations and often at smaller ones, and some even allow you to pick up and return bikes at stations at either end of a particular route. All three national tourist boards can help you plan an itinerary best suited to your physical condition and time restraints. Holland’s excellent Cycling in Holland publication is especially useful. Organized bicycle tours can be arranged through International Bicycle Tours, P.O. Box 754, Essex, CT 06426 (&860/767-7005; www.internationalbicycletours. com); and Cycletours, Buiksloterweg 7A, 1031 CC Amsterdam (& 020/5218490; www.cycletours.nl).

Admittedly, the three Benelux countries are by no means inexpensive. Clearly, whether you agree with this statement will depend on how much you can bring to bear—or bear to bring—in the way of financial resources. If you’re used to the prices in New York and London, those in Amsterdam, Brussels, and Luxembourg City likely won’t seem too out of whack. But opportunities for scoring genuine bargains run a thin gamut from few and far between to nonexistent. In your favor is that the natives themselves display a reluctance to part unnecessarily with a euro. A sound rule of thumb is that if you lodge, dine, and entertain yourself in the same places where “ordinary” locals do, you can limit the financial damage. Frommer’s lists prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a 43

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

Money & Costs

currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates. The currency-exchange offices at the main train stations in Brussels, Amsterdam, and Luxembourg City offer fair rates for cash and traveler’s checks, as do banks, offices of Travelex (www.travelex.com) in Belgium and Luxembourg, GWK Travelex (www.travelex.com) in Holland, and VVV tourist information offices in Holland. Exchange rates at currency-exchange offices at Brussels, Amsterdam, and Luxembourg City airports are lousy; use the airport ATMs to avoid these bad deals. Other currency-exchange offices throughout the Benelux countries, which are open regular hours plus evenings and weekends, may charge a low commission or none at all, but they give a low rate of exchange. Hotels should be avoided as a currency-exchange resource unless there’s no alternative. The Travelex and GWK Travelex offices can arrange money transfers through Western Union. ATMs are widespread in Benelux cities and towns, and you can even find them in some villages. They accept bank cards and credit cards linked to the Cirrus (www. mastercard.com) and PLUS (www.visa.com) networks. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. If you have a five- or six-digit PIN, also be sure to obtain a four-digit number from your bank to use in the Benelux. Some cards with five- or six-digit PINs might work, but it depends on what bank you use. Credit cards are not as commonly accepted in general as they are in the United States and Britain. Many restaurants and stores, and some hotels, don’t accept them at all, and others add a 5% charge for card payment. They are almost universally accepted by gas stations and for travel by plane, train, and even taxi (not all taxis). The smaller the business, the less likely it is to accept credit cards. Visa and MasterCard (also known as EuroCard in Europe) are the most widely used cards in the Benelux lands. American Express is often accepted in the middleand upper-bracket category. Diners Club is not as commonly accepted as American Express. Americans using traditional “swipe” credit cards with a magnetic stripe may run into trouble when they encounter a European chip-and-PIN credit card terminal. The European cards have embedded encrypted microprocessor chips, and their use is authorized by entering a four-digit personal identification number. When it comes to ticket machines, automated gas-station pumps, and other automats in the Benelux, you’ll likely be out of luck with a swipe card. Still, most human-operated chip-andPIN payment terminals are capable of processing magnetic-stripe cards—provided the operator knows how to do this, or can be prodded into making the effort. For those occasions when a swipe card simply won’t fly, you’ll need to have cash on hand, or it’s no transaction. Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country—even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

WHAT THINGS COST IN THE BENELUX

€

Taxi from the airport to downtown Amsterdam

40.00

Double room (moderate)

125.00

Double room (inexpensive)

60.00

Three-course dinner for one without wine (moderate) Bottle of Heineken beer

25.00–40.00 2.00–4.00

Bottle of Coca-Cola

3.00

Cup of coffee

2.50–4.50

1 gallon/1 liter of premium gas

6.00/1.60

Admission to most museums

6.00–12.00

No health and vaccination certificates are required. You don’t need any shots before your trip, but if you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. Don’t forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription eyeglasses.

Regional Health Concerns

Staying Healthy

There are no particular health concerns in the Benelux—if you don’t count the “risk” in Amsterdam and other Dutch towns of occasionally breathing in a whiff of someone else’s legally tolerated hashish smoke (and, of course, they’d likely argue that it’s perfectly healthy). You will encounter few other health problems when traveling. DIETARY ISSUES The tap water is safe to drink, and the milk is pasteurized. Vegetarian restaurants, or at least restaurants with some vegetarian dishes on the menu, are easy to find. The existence of growing Muslim populations in most towns and cities, and of Jewish communities primarily in Amsterdam, Antwerp, and Brussels, means that both halal and kosher food is available. BUGS Ticks that may be vectors for diseases like Lyme disease can be a problem in summer. This is most likely to affect woods and forests and other country areas, but you get ticks in city parks, too.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

STAYING HEALTHY

Smoke-Free Zones Smoke no longer gets in your eyes and up your nose as much as it used to in Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg, since restrictions on smoking in restaurants, bars, cafes, clubs, and other places, including public spaces in

hotels, were introduced. In Holland, a typical Dutch compromise applies to drug-selling “smoking coffeeshops,” where patrons are still permitted to puff joints, but not cigarettes, cigars, or pipes. See p.327 for more information.

If You Get Sick

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

Crime & Safety

The primarily state-owned healthcare systems in the Benelux lands are among the world’s best, even if they have begun to show signs of the strain of universal healthcare for all. It’s easy to get over-the-counter medicines for minor ailments, and both local brands and generic equivalents of most common prescription drugs are available. Many doctors speak English (though the words they use might be a little disturbing, like the doctor who told me he knew what “disease” I had when I reported a minor ailment). If a medical issue arises, your hotel staff can usually put you in touch with a reliable doctor. Most hospitals have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life threatening; you may not get immediate attention, but you won’t pay the high price of an emergency-room visit. Embassies in Brussels and The Hague, and consulates in Amsterdam, can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. The “Fast Facts” sections for Brussels, Bruges, and Amsterdam (chapters 6, 7, and 13) list the main hospitals in those cities. For both prescription and nonprescription medicines, go to a pharmacy (pharmacie in French; apotheek in Dutch). Regular pharmacy hours generally are Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5:30 or 6pm (some close earlier on Sat). Every pharmacy posts a list of late-night and weekend pharmacies on the door. I list additional emergency numbers in chapter 21, “Fast Facts.”

CRIME & SAFETY In Holland, be wary of pickpockets on trams, buses, and Metro trains; in train and Metro stations; on busy shopping streets and in busy stores; and even in your hotel lobby. The rest of the Netherlands is not as bad in this respect as Amsterdam, though Rotterdam and The Hague are not so far behind. Belgium is generally safe; even the big cities are low-crime areas. However, Belgium has experienced a creeping spread of drug-related crime, and crimes committed by some poorly integrated members of immigrant communities. In Brussels, the Métro has been plagued by muggers, and though increased police presence and video surveillance have brought this under control, it’s still better not to venture alone into deserted Métro access corridors after dark; when other people are around, it’s generally safe. Both Brussels and Antwerp have well-defined red-light zones, in which more than a little caution is in order. Don’t confuse these places with the Red Light District up the road in Amsterdam, which is a pretty big tourist attraction in its own right and mostly safe for casual visitors. Brussels’s red-light zone in particular is a creepy, lowlife place, and though Antwerp’s is not quite so bad, it’s still not really a place to go for sightseeing. Bruges and Ghent have only minimal facilities of this kind, so this is not a factor there. And then there’s Luxembourg. In the unlikely event that you become a victim of any kind of crime in the squeaky-clean Grand Duchy, watch out—you’ll likely be stuffed and placed in a museum for the astonishment of future generations.

Dealing with Discrimination Both Belgium and Holland are showing an increase in votes for right-wing political parties opposed, to one degree or another, to immigration, and even to the continued presence of immigrant communities. This applies in particular to those migrants “who do not share European values.” Rising levels of muggings, break-ins, pickpocketing, 46

In addition to the destination-specific resources listed below, please visit Frommers. com for other specialized travel resources.

LGBT Travelers In Amsterdam, you can get information, or just meet people, by visiting COC Amsterdam, Rozenstraat 14 (& 020/626-3087; www.cocamsterdam.nl), the Amsterdam branch of the Dutch lesbian and gay organization COC Nederland (&020/623-4596; www.coc.nl). The Gay and Lesbian Switchboard (&020/ 623-6565; www.switchboard.nl) can provide you with all kinds of information and advice. Call AIDS Infolijn (&0900/204-2040) for info on AIDS. You shouldn’t have too much trouble finding information about gay and lesbian bars and clubs because they’re well publicized. Also see “The Gay & Lesbian Scene” under “Amsterdam After Dark,” in chapter 13. The free biweekly listings magazine Shark is a great source of cultural information, in particular for the offbeat and alternative scenes. Gay News and Gay&Night, competing monthly magazines in both Dutch and English, are available free in gay establishments around the city. Amsterdam hosts one of the most successful Gay Pride events, in August.

Specialized Travel Resources

SPECIALIZED TRAVEL RESOURCES

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

bag snatching, auto theft, and other crimes, attributed, rightly or wrongly, to legal and illegal immigrants and to some ethnic minorities, appear to be fueling the trend. This attitude could translate into discrimination against nonwhite visitors, though the majority of Dutch and Belgians would have nothing to do with this. In Amsterdam (of all places) and other Dutch cities, there is a rising incidence of gays and lesbians being verbally abused and even assaulted, and the perpetrators often are young fundamentalist—or maybe just hooligan—Muslim men and teens. Around 200 attacks are reported yearly in Holland’s “gay capital,” and estimates of unreported incidents in Amsterdam run as high as 5,000. Surveys show that more gays feel less safe than formerly. To protect themselves, some are turning to selfdefense and aggression-avoidance techniques. The city mayor commissioned the University of Amsterdam to research the whole question of homophobic attacks. Their conclusion—that young Dutch Muslim men are not entirely comfortable with their own sexuality—doesn’t seem likely to offer much of a solution. Antwerp has both an ultra-Orthodox Haredi and Hasidic Jewish community and a significant minority of people of North African (Arab) origin. Tensions caused by the Israeli/Palestinian conflict have led to attacks on Jewish individuals and facilities. This problem has shown up in Amsterdam, Brussels, and other Benelux cities, too. Jewish visitors who dress in a way that clearly identifies them as Jewish should be aware of this, even though the chances of being a victim of harassment or assault are very small. Note: Listing some of the possible dangers together like this can give a false impression of the threat from crime or discrimination in the Benelux lands. None of these dangers is statistically significant, and by no stretch of the imagination can any Benelux city be described as dangerous. The overwhelming probability is that you will not notice any of these problems, far less encounter one of them. But it can’t hurt to be aware of them.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

Specialized Travel Resources

See “Crime & Safety,” above, for information on the problems of homophobic violence Amsterdam’s gay community is currently experiencing. In Belgium, contact the gay and lesbian community centers in Brussels Tels Quels, rue du Marché-au-Charbon 81 (&02/512-45-87; www.telsquels.be); and La Maison Arc-en-Ciel, rue du Marché au Charbon 42 (&02/503-59-90; www.rainbow house.be). For Flanders, contact Çavaria, Kammerstraat 22 (&09/223-69-29; www. cavaria.be), in Ghent; and Holebifoon (&0800/99-533; www.holebifoon.be). For the scene in Bruges, contact Jong & Holebi in Brugge, Koningin Elisabethlaan 92 (&050/33-69-70; www.j-h.be). Belgium’s main Gay Pride events take place in Brussels in May and Antwerp in June. In Luxembourg, the gay men’s organization is Rosa Lëtzebuerg, rue des Romains 60 (&26-19-00-18; www.gay.lu), in Luxembourg City.

Travelers with Disabilities Many hotels and restaurants in Benelux now provide easy access for people with disabilities, and some display the international wheelchair symbol in their brochures and advertising. It’s always a good idea to call ahead to find out what the situation is before you book. Both Brussels Airport and Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport have services to help travelers with disabilities through the airport. There’s also comprehensive assistance for travelers with disabilities throughout the railway systems of all three countries. Inquire also at the national tourist board offices in each country for specific details on the available resources. Not all trams in Brussels, Antwerp, Amsterdam, The Hague, Rotterdam, and other cities are easily accessible for travelers in wheelchairs, but the new trams being introduced on some routes have low central doors that are accessible. The Metro systems in Brussels, Antwerp, Amsterdam, and Rotterdam are fully accessible. Taxis are likely to be difficult to some degree, but new minivan taxis are an improvement. There’s comprehensive assistance for travelers in Belgium on SNCB (&02/528-2828; www.b-rail.be) trains and in stations; in Holland with NS (&030/235-7822; www. ns.nl); and in Luxembourg with CFL (&24-89-24-89; www.cfl.lu). If you give them a day’s notice of your journey by visiting a station or calling ahead, they can arrange for assistance along the way. A good source of information in the Netherlands is the Dutch national automobile and touring club ANWB (&088/269-2222; www.anwb.nl). Another is the Amersfoort-based national organization ANGO (& 033/465-4343; www.ango.nl); their website is in Dutch, but you might likely get an English speaker if you phone. In Belgium, there’s VAPH (& 02/225-84-81; www.vaph.be) for Flanders, and AWIPH (&0800/16-061; www.awiph.be) for Wallonia. In Luxembourg, turn to Info Handicap (&36-64-66; www.info-handicap.lu).

Family Travel Some of the more expensive hotels in this region offer kids’ suites, and you might even find that a suite is cheaper than booking two rooms. Many hotels allow children up to a certain age to sleep free or for a reduced rate in their parent’s room, and may provide an extra bed. Arrange ahead of time for such necessities as a crib, bottle warmer, and car seat (small children are not allowed to ride in the front seat). As for keeping the children amused, what child wouldn’t be happy exploring the castles that are scattered across the Benelux landscapes? Give your youngsters a head

start with a short rundown on the people who constructed these fascinating structures and what happened within their walls, and you’ll soon find their imaginations running wild. In the cities, small towns, and villages, the colorful pageantry of past centuries as depicted in numerous festivals will surely delight the younger set. In Holland, watch faces light up at the Lilliputian “Holland in a Nutshell” miniatures at Madurodam. In Belgium, Brussels’s Manneken-Pis statue, a famous national monument of a little boy urinating, is usually a winner. And look for wildlife centers in all three countries. Virtually every sightseeing attraction admits children at half price, and many offer family-ticket discounts. For a Benelux experience aimed especially at children, see “Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg for Families,” in chapter 4. To locate accommodations, restaurants, and attractions that are particularly kid-friendly, refer to the “Kids” icon throughout this guide.

In Amsterdam, it’s safe for groups of women to go around in the city’s famed (or notorious) Red Light District—always supposing they can stomach seeing other women serving purely as sex objects—but a young woman on her own, particularly after dark, could be subject to at least verbal harassment, and misrepresentation as a “working girl.” All other red-light zones in Benelux cities—and especially those in Brussels and Antwerp—are best avoided by women. Public transportation in most Benelux towns and cities is usually busy even late at night, so you generally won’t have to worry about being alone in a bus, tram, or Metro train. If you feel nervous, sit close to the driver whenever possible. Holland has long enjoyed a relaxed attitude to exposing nontrivial amounts of the undraped female form—a recent government DVD, part of a now-mandatory “education” for would-be migrants, portrays going topless at the beach as an integral part of Dutch culture. Far fewer women are actually going without at the beach or in the park these days, and those who do are less likely to be younger women and teens. Catholic Belgium and Luxembourg always were less relaxed about this, and remain so.

Mention that you’re a senior when you make your travel reservations. By far the best way to get around in the Benelux lands is by public transportation—Metro trains, trams, and buses for short journeys, and trains for longer journeys. All three countries offer discounts for seniors on public transportation. For train travel, these discounts begin at age 65 in Belgium, and at age 60 in Holland and Luxembourg. Bus companies may have different starting ages for discounted tickets and passes. Many sightseeing attractions and tour companies offer senior discounts, but these might apply only to local residents when they produce an appropriate ID. Be sure to ask when you buy your ticket. A group of local seniors run so-called “Mee in Mokum” guided tours on foot through Amsterdam—“Mokum” is the name Amsterdam’s once-thriving Jewish community used for the city, and it’s still used informally by the populace. The name means something like “Going with Amsterdam.” People of any age can go on the tours, which are not exclusively for seniors, but that they are led by seniors makes it more likely the pace will be suitable. The guides speak English and know their beloved city inside out, as you might expect from people who have lived there for

Specialized Travel Resources

Senior Travel

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

Women Travelers

decades. Tours depart Tuesday to Sunday from the David & Goliath restaurant, Kalverstraat 92 (at the Amsterdams Historisch Museum); they last 2 to 3 hours and cost 5€. You can reach the guides at &020/625-4450, or look them up at www. gildeamsterdam.nl.

Student Travel

Responsible Tourism

Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (&800/781-4040 in North America, 134 782 in Australia, or 0871/230-0040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you’re no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (& 866/246-9762; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (&01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Irelandbased specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

Single Travelers Amsterdam is Europe’s ideal singles city: Countless singles from around the world come there to have a great time. The other major Benelux cities, not so much (Antwerp and Rotterdam could be the big exceptions). Amsterdam is not that difficult of a place to get to and get to grips with for a person traveling alone. There are lots of hotels and restaurants in all price ranges, and it’s easy to meet other people around the bars and clubs, on canal-boat tours and bicycle tours, and in other ways. I don’t know if anybody ever went to Brussels, Bruges, or Ghent for a no-holdsbarred wild-party vacation—and for sure not to The Hague, Liège, or Luxembourg City. I don’t mean to say there are no decent bars and dance clubs amid the fine dining, art galleries, history museums, and other sober-sided goings-on in these places, but that’s not really where their heart and soul lie. Companies that specialize in solo travel to the Benelux lands are thin on the ground. The Singles Travel Company, 56 N. Santa Cruz Ave., Los Gatos, CA 95030 (&888/286-8687, or 408/354-3871; www.singlestravelcompany.com), takes in Amsterdam as a part of its European tour.

RESPONSIBLE TOURISM The Dutch take the environment seriously. Living in a small country that’s so heavily populated they need to recover land from the sea, they must. More than 60% of household waste is sorted, collected, and recycled. As a visitor, you are expected to play your part and not to just toss stuff without first checking if it’s recyclable or reusable. Greenpeace International (www.greenpeace.org) has its headquarters in Amsterdam. Generating power from the wind—an age-old Dutch skill—is growing apace. In 2010 Holland had around 2,000 wind turbines (100 offshore and the remainder on land), producing 9% of its electricity from this renewable resource, a figure that’s due 50

Special Interest & Escorted Trips

SPECIAL INTEREST & ESCORTED TRIPS

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

to more than double by 2020. Dutch airline KLM offers a voluntary program of paying a little more for your flight and flying CO2-neutral. KLM invests the additional sum in selected sustainability projects. All those bicycles you see in Holland take plenty of cars off the street. Anyone who’s not riding a bike is likely to be walking or getting around by tram; visitors are encouraged to do likewise. There are many places where you can rent bikes, and public transportation is both easy to use and efficient. This commitment to going by bicycle applies absolutely everywhere in Holland, and to all age groups. Belgium’s Dutch-speaking Flanders region comes close to sharing the Dutch commitment to getting around by bike, particularly in areas close to the Dutch border and along the coast. In much of Francophone Belgium and in Luxembourg, the hilly terrain makes the bicycle not an ideal mode of transportation, though it is used enthusiastically for sport, fitness, and touring. Benelux cities have excellent integrated public transportation systems, and using them helps with reducing greenhouse-gas emissions. Even if you must rent a car for getting around, the main car rental firms (see “By Car” under “Getting Around the Benelux,” earlier in this chapter) offer green options to one degree or another. That might involve renting a low-emissions car, or making a payment to a CO2-offset program, so that you can drive carbon-neutral. Green living extends to what people eat throughout the Benelux countries. Restaurants in Amsterdam such as Bolhoed (p.293), Golden Temple (p.295), and De Kas (p.298); Shanti (p.101) in Brussels; and Lotus (p.143) in Bruges use “bio” and vegan products and ingredients in the meals they serve. In food-crazy Belgium, there’s a small but perhaps significant sign that the environment doesn’t get quite the same care and attention. The Flemish soup-like stew waterzooï, one of the country’s signature dishes and traditionally made with freshwater fish, is generally made with chicken today, because rivers like the Scheldt and the Meuse are still too polluted. Many Dutch and Belgian hotels have signed up for sustainable operations agreements, which provide for becoming more energy efficient in all areas of operation, conserving water, decreasing the amount of unsorted waste, and more. Check hotel reviews throughout this book for details on specific sustainable properties. Luxembourg is also hard at work on its green credentials, with construction projects around the Grand Duchy utilizing wind and solar energy and commercial data centers expanding their use of renewable sources of power. The government has launched an Eco-Technology Action Plan to support such endeavors. In the hospitality industry, there’s an official Ecolabel, awarded to hotels for instituting a broad range of green improvements, like reducing water use, reusing air-conditioning energy, emphasizing the use of public transportation over private cars and limos, and using organic produce in their restaurants. Among the hotels to pick up this award is Le Royal (p.499) in Luxembourg City.

Academic Trips & Language Classes If you want to get fluent and have fun doing it, take a language course in Belgium, Holland, or Luxembourg. There are countless language schools; you can explore your 51

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Special Interest & Escorted Trips

options at www.language-directory.com, www.goabroad.com, or find an online partner to practice your new skills with at www.mylanguageexchange.com. About half of Belgians are native French speakers, even if there might be a few differences between Belgian French and that of la belle France—for instance, septante and nonante instead of soixante-dix and quatre-vingts-dix, for “seventy” and “ninety,” respectively—so no big deal. A good if pricey school where you can learn French, Dutch, German, and other languages is CERAN, av. des Petits Sapins 27, 4900 Spa (&087/79-11-22; www.ceran.com). You lodge at the Château du HautNeubois, just outside Spa. They do courses for adults and for children ages 10 to 18. Maybe you’ve always dreamed of learning Dutch. Well, it can be done in Amsterdam. All three of the city’s universities offer Dutch courses: Universiteit van Amsterdam, Spui 21, 1012 WX Amsterdam (& 020/525-9111; www.uva.nl); Volksuniversiteit, Rapenburgerstraat 73, 1011 VK Amsterdam (& 020/6261626; www.volksuniversiteitamsterdam.nl); and Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam, De Boelelaan 1105, 1081 HV Amsterdam (&020/598-9898; www.vu.nl). Learning Luxembourg’s language Lëtzebuergesch may seem a mite specialized— and indeed it is—but you can do this, too. More practically, French and German are options to learn. Among the schools in the Grand Duchy that offer these courses is the Institut National des Langues, bd. de la Foire 21, 1528 Luxembourg-Ville (&26-44-301; www.insl.lu).

Adventure & Wellness Trips The terrain in Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg doesn’t lend itself readily to adventure—but it does lend itself wonderfully to bicycling, and for some that will be adventure enough. If you want an active, typically Dutch vacation, VBT Bicycling Vacations, 614 Monkton Road, Bristol, VT 05443-0711 (&800/245-3868; www. vbt.com), has a 7-day “Holland: Bike and Barge” tour. You get 3 days on a barge visiting historic towns along the shore of the IJsselmeer Lake, followed by 4 days of bicycling in the Hoge Veluwe National Park and around nearby Arnhem. Ask about VBT’s “Air Package Plus,” which includes round-trip airfare to Amsterdam and preand post-tour accommodations. The aptly named Tulip Cycling, Boerhaar 37, 8131 SV Wijhe (&0570/545-030; www.tulipcycling.com) does a range of great cycling vacations through this bike-crazy country. In addition to covering Holland, Pure Adventures (& 800/960-2221 in the U.S.; www.pure-adventures.com), takes in the Flemish part of Belgium, with the cities of Bruges and Ghent.

Food & Wine Trips Belgium boasts one of the Continent’s great culinary traditions, even if it is a largely unsung one compared with France, Italy, and Spain. Going with Gordon’s Guide Culinary Tours (www.culinary-vacations.gordonsguide.com) is a good way to get to the heart of the matter. “Dutch cooking is not a widely known cuisine,” admits a reviewer of The Art of Dutch Cooking (1997) by Corry Countess Van Limburg Stirum. True. Traditional Dutch cuisine has not had much of a distinctive identity beyond its sterling meat-and-potatoes heritage, though “New Dutch cuisine” is a term that’s often bandied about for a contemporary style that employs the best of Dutch ingredients in refreshing new ways, and

mixes and matches from the vast range of ethnic styles that are now served up in Dutch cities. De Kookfabriek, De Flinesstraat 4, 1099 CB Amsterdam-Duivendrecht (&020/463-5635; www.kookfabriek.nl), is one organization that offers a variety of Dutch cooking classes.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Escorted General Interest Tours

Special Interest & Escorted Trips

With a good escorted group tour, you’ll know ahead of time what your trip will cost, and you won’t have to worry about transportation, luggage, hotel reservations, communicating in foreign languages, and other basics—an experienced guide will take care of all that and lead you through all the sightseeing. The downside of a guided tour is that you trade much of the freedom and personal free time independent travel grants you and often see only the canned postcard-ready side of Europe through the tinted windows of a giant bus. You get to see Europe, but rarely do you get the chance to really know it. Consult a good travel agent for the latest offerings and advice. Virgin Vacations (&888/937-8474; www.virgin-vacations.com) organizes great escorted tours of Amsterdam alone, with bus, bike, and boat options; and of Belgium and Holland together, taking in Amsterdam, Delft, Brussels, Bruges, and Antwerp. The Amsterdam-based company Artifex, Rapenburgerstraat 123, 1011 VL Amsterdam (& 020/620-8112; www.artifex.nu), offers everything from architecture walks to painting classes on canal boats. Its tailor-made tours aren’t exactly cheap (the price depends on what you want to do), but its multilingual guides—trained art historians—can get you into private collections, the Royal Palace even when it’s closed to the public, the Amsterdam School’s Scheepvaarthuis (now a hotel), and many more places. Some clients wind up spending half their day in a cozy brown cafe. With more than 450 different beers being produced in a nation of just 10 million inhabitants, you can easily see that beer is a big deal in Belgium. Some of these are run-of-the-mill pilsener beers, but many are lovingly crafted specialty beers with their own distinct bottle and glass. Getting to grips with a bottle of Belgium’s best is made easier on an escorted beer tour run by BeerTrips.com, PO Box 7892, Missoula, MT 59807 (&406/531-9109; www.beertrips.com). Tiny Luxembourg is more likely to be included in a more general escorted tour than to be a destination in its own right. An example is the Imperial Capitals Tour offered by Cosmos Tours (& 800/942-3301; www.escortedcosmostours.com), which covers Belgium and Luxembourg in addition to other European countries. For more information on escorted general-interest tours, including questions to ask before booking your trip, see Frommers.com.

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

Here’s a list of companies offering educational and volunteer opportunities in Benelux: W http://jobs.goabroad.com: Listings for jobs throughout Europe, as well as links to study and volunteer options. W www.idealist.org: Resources and tips on volunteering abroad, along with volunteer and paid postings. W www.volunteerabroad.com: Extensive listings for European volunteer opportunities. W www.concordiafarms.org: Concordia is a UK-based organization with extensive volunteering opportunities in European countries, among them Belgium and Holland.

STAYING CONNECTED Mobile Phones

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

Staying Connected

If your phone has GSM (Global System for Mobiles) capability and you have a worldcompatible phone, you should be able to make and receive calls from the Benelux countries. Only certain phones have this capability, though, and you should check with your service operator first. Call charges can be high. Alternatively, you can rent a phone through Cellhire (& 877/244-7242; www.cellhire.com in the U.S.; or &0800/280-0415; www.cellhire.co.uk in the U.K.;), or Global Mobility Group (&1300/791-033; www.globalmobilitygroup.com.au). After a simple online registration, they will ship a phone (usually with a U.K. number) to your home or office. Usage charges can be high, so read the fine print. U.K. mobiles work in the Benelux countries; call your service provider before departing your home country to ensure that the international call bar has been switched off and to check call charges, which can be high. Also remember that you are charged for calls you receive on a U.K. mobile used abroad. To rent a GSM mobile phone in Belgium, go to Rent2Connect (&02/652-1414; www.locaphone.be), in the Arrivals hall at Brussels Airport. In Holland, go to Telecom Rentcenter (&020/653-0999; www.rentcenter.nl), in the Arrivals hall at Schiphol Airport. If you have Web access while traveling, consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet Protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allow you to make free international calls from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you’re calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not). Check the websites for details.

Internet & E-mail More and more hotels, hostels, bars, coffeehouses, and cafes have terminals and/or Wi-Fi hotspots with Internet access. At presstime, Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport offered free Wi-Fi for up to 1 hour throughout all its terminals. To find public Wi-Fi hotspots, go to www.jiwire.com; its Global Wi-Fi Finder holds the world’s largest directory of public wireless hotspots. Bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable—or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests. One effect of the growth in Wi-Fi has been to all but kill the market for dedicated cybercafes, which have become an endangered species in the Benelux lands. You’ll still find them, just not as many as formerly.

Newspapers & Magazines The main British and Irish daily newspapers, and the International Herald Tribune, Wall Street Journal Europe, USA Today, Time, Newsweek, Business Week, Fortune, The Economist, and more are available from news vendors at major train stations, and from other outlets in Benelux towns and cities. If you are so starved of news that you need to get it somehow from a Dutch paper, the main dailies in Holland are Het Parool (center-left afternoon paper); NRC Handelsblad (centrist, intellectual evening paper); De Volkskrant (Catholic, left-liberal morning paper); and De Telegraaf (right-wing morning paper). The highbrow weekly news magazine is Elsevier. 54

In Belgium you have the luxury of choice between French- and Dutch-language dailies. On the French side of the aisle, there’s Le Soir (liberal and authoritative); La Libre Belgique (Catholic and traditional); and La Dernière Heure (popular and breathless). Flemings get their news fix from De Standaard (centrist and authoritative); De Morgen (progressive and righteous); and De Tijd (popular and colorful). The authoritative weekly news magazines are the Flemish Knack and the French Le Vif L’Express. There’s even a daily newspaper, the Grenz-Echo (independent and traditional), for the small German-speaking community in the east of the country. In Luxembourg you have the German-language dailies d’Wort (which contains a section written in Lëtzebuergesch), Tageblatt, and Lëtzebuerger Journal; and in French, La Voix du Luxembourg and Le Quotidien.

Telephones

Staying Connected

The country code for Belgium is 32. When calling Belgium from abroad, you do not use the initial 0 in the area code. For example, if you’re calling a Brussels number (area code 02) from outside Belgium, you dial the international access code (which is 011 when calling from North America, and 00 from elsewhere in Europe) and then 32-2, followed by the subscriber number. You only dial the initial 0 of the area code if you’re calling within Belgium (and this includes if you’re calling another number in the same area-code zone). When you call someone in Belgium, you always need to use the area code even if you’re calling from inside the same area. There are two main formats for Belgian phone numbers. In the main cities, a two-digit area code followed by a seven-digit number; and for other places, a three-digit area code followed by a six-digit number. For instance, Brussels’s tourist information number is 02/513-89-40; Ypres’s is 057/23-92-20. For information in English, both domestic and international, dial &1404. To make international calls from Belgium, first dial 00 and then the country code. To call the United States or Canada, dial 00 (the international access code) + 1 (the country code) + the area code + the number. Other country codes are: United Kingdom, 44; Ireland, 353; Australia, 61; New Zealand, 64. International calls, per minute, cost: U.S., Canada, U.K., Ireland: 0.35€; Australia, New Zealand: 1€. You can use most pay phones with a Belgacom telecard (phone card), selling for 5€, 10€, and 20€ from post offices. Some pay phones take coins, of 0.10€, 0.20€, 0.50€, 1€, and 2€. Both local and long-distance calls from a pay phone are 0.30€ a minute at peak time (Mon–Fri 8am–7pm) and the same amount for 2 minutes at other times. Calls dialed direct from hotel room phones are usually more than twice the standard rate. To charge a call to your calling card, contact: AT&T (& 0800/100-10), Sprint (&0800/100-14), Australia Direct (&0800/100-61), Canada Direct (&0800/10019), British Telecom (&0800/100-24), and Telecom New Zealand (&0800/100-64).

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

BELGIUM

HOLLAND The country code for the Netherlands is 31. When calling Holland from abroad, you do not use the initial 0 in the area code. For example, if you’re calling an Amsterdam number (area code 020) from outside Holland, you dial the international access code (which is 011 when calling from North America, and 00 from elsewhere in Europe) and then 31-20, followed by the subscriber number. You only dial the initial 0 of the area code if you’re calling within Holland. 55

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX

Staying Connected

When making local calls in Holland, you won’t need to use the area codes shown in this book. You do need to use an area code between towns and cities. The two main formats for Dutch phone numbers are: for cities and large towns, a three-digit area code followed by a seven-digit number; and for small towns and villages, a four-digit area code followed by a six-digit number. For operator assistance, call &0800/0410. For information inside Holland, dial &0900/8008; for international information, dial &0900/8418 for multiple numbers. Numbers beginning with 0800 within Holland are toll-free. Watch out for the special Dutch numbers that begin with 0900; calls to these are charged at a higher rate than ordinary local calls. Depending who you call, they can cost up to 1€ a minute. To make international calls from the Netherlands, first dial 00 and then the country code. To call the United States or Canada, dial 00 (the international access code) + 1 (the country code) + the area code + the number. Other country codes are: United Kingdom, 44; Ireland, 353; Australia, 61; New Zealand, 64. International calls, per minute, cost: U.S. and Canada: 0.30€; U.K. and Ireland: 0.35€; Australia and New Zealand: 0.40€. You can use pay phones with a KPN telekaart (phone card). KPN cards are 5€, 10€, 20€, and 50€, from post offices, train-station ticket counters, and some tobacconists and newsstands. Some pay phones take credit cards. A few take coins of 0.10€, 0.20€, 0.50€, 1€, and 2€. Both local and long-distance calls from a pay phone are 0.30€ a minute. There’s a sustained dial tone, and a beep-beep sound for a busy signal. On card and coin phones, a digital reading tracks your decreasing deposit so you know when to add another card or more coins. To make additional calls when you still have a coin or card inserted, briefly break the connection, and you will get a new dial tone for another call. To charge a call to your calling card, call AT&T (& 0800/022-9111), Sprint (& 0800/022-9119), Canada Direct (& 0800/022-9116), British Telecom (&0800/022-9944), Australia Direct (&0800/022-0061), or Telecom New Zealand (&0800/022-4295).

LUXEMBOURG The country code for Luxembourg is 352. The entire country is in the same local dialing area, so no area codes are used. For example, if you’re calling a Luxembourg City number from outside Luxembourg, you dial the international access code (which is 011 when calling from North America, and 00 from elsewhere in Europe) and then 352, followed by the local number. When you’re calling a Luxembourg number from anywhere in Luxembourg, you need only dial the local number. These numbers can be confusing enough, since you might need to dial a five-, six-, seven-, eight-, or even nine-digit subscriber number. Almost all pay phones accept phone cards; these cost 5€, 10€, and 25€, and are sold at post offices and newsstands. Some phones accept 0.20€, 0.50€, and 1€ coins. To charge a call to your calling card, phone: AT&T (& 800/20-111), Sprint (&800/20-115), Canada Direct (&800/20-119), British Telecom (&800/20044), or Telecom New Zealand (&800/20-064).

TIPS ON ACCOMMODATIONS

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE BENELUX Tips on Accommodations

Traditional European hotels tend to be simpler than American ones and emphasize cleanliness and friendliness over amenities. For example, even in the cheapest American chain motel, free cable is as standard as indoor plumbing. In Europe, few hotels below the moderate level have in-room TVs. Unless otherwise noted, all hotel rooms in this book have private en suite bathrooms. However, the standard European hotel bathroom might not look like what you’re used to. For example, one European concept of a shower is a nozzle stuck in the bathroom wall and a drain in the floor. Shower curtains are optional. In some cramped private bathrooms, you have to relocate the toilet paper outside the bathroom before turning on the shower and drenching the whole room. Another interesting fixture is the “half tub,” in which there’s only room to sit, rather than lie down. Hot water may be available only once a day and not on demand—this is especially true with shared bathrooms. Heating water is costly, and many smaller hotels do so only once daily, in the morning. Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg established the Benelux Hotel Classification System back in 1978 and updated the standards in 1994. Each establishment that accepts guests must publicly display a sign indicating its classification (from “1” for those with minimum amenities to “5” for deluxe, full-service hotels). The national tourist boards do an excellent job of providing full accommodations listings and advance booking for visitors. Should the idea of vacationing on a working farm, or in a château (an old-fashioned country home), or even in an old school converted to a character-filled lodging hold some charms for you, Belgium has two organizations that can smooth your path to the front door. In Wallonia, contact Gîtes de Wallonie, av. Prince de Liège 1/21, 5100 Jambes-Namur (&081/31-18-00; www.gitesdewallonie.be); for Flanders, contact Plattelandstoerisme in Vlaanderen, Diestsevest 40, 3000 Leuven (&016/2860-35; www.hoevetoerisme.be). In all three countries, you can choose among luxury hotels in city or rural locations; smaller urban hotels with moderate rates and somewhat limited facilities; and charming, family-run country inns. No matter what end of the price scale it’s on, each lodging will be spotlessly clean and will feature a staff dedicated to personal attention and excellent service. The rates quoted include the service charge (usually 15%), tax, and, in most cases, breakfast. Be sure to inquire about discounts when you book your room. Many hotels have a variety of room rates. It’s sometimes possible to pay less if you settle for a shower instead of full bathroom facilities. Also, weekend or midweek rates are often available. For tips on surfing for hotel deals online, visit Frommers.com.

SUGGESTED BENELUX ITINERARIES

he quintessential Benelux experience is a city one. Not many foreign visitors come for the Belgian beaches, even fewer for the Dutch mountains, and none at all

for Luxembourg’s vast empty spaces. On the other hand,

Benelux cities—big and small—are among Europe’s cultural and historical glories. This doesn’t mean there are no places of scenic beauty; there are actually more than you might think.

Most important, bring as much time with you as you can afford. You might want to indulge yourself by stepping onboard an occasional slow train rather than always rushing to catch the high-speed Thalys or an InterCity Express; and drive on at least some country roads instead of zipping along on expressways. Even going by bicycle isn’t out of the question. Getting around Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg is a snap, but deciding what to take in and what to leave out is difficult. I hope these suggested itineraries will help you organize your time as you plan your own trip to the Benelux.

THE COUNTRIES IN BRIEF Taken together, the Benelux nations of Belgium, Holland (the Netherlands), and Luxembourg cover a small area, a mere 75,000 sq. kilometers (29,000 sq. miles)—around one-fifth the size of neighboring Germany, and not much larger than West Virginia. But arguably, no other comparably sized place in Europe compresses so many points of interest. Topping the list are artistic masterpieces, cultural events, and substantial reminders of a long and colorful history. Space remains for scenery that, while mostly lacking in drama, can still be lyrically beautiful. Then there are the more mundane (but agreeable) advantages of convenience, economy, and friendly populations, not to mention a host of other travel delights—the exquisite food and drink of Brussels, the exuberant sociability of Amsterdam, and Luxembourg’s sidewalk cafes. BELGIUM For a graphic image of Belgium’s two ethnic regions, Dutchspeaking Vlaanderen (Flanders) and French-speaking Wallonie (Wallonia), draw an imaginary east-west line across the country just south of Brussels. North of the line is Flanders, where you find the medieval cities of Bruges, Ghent, and Antwerp, and Belgium’s North Sea coastline. South

BELGIUM & HOLLAND IN 1 WEEK Few countries can boast of cities more justly celebrated than Amsterdam, Brussels, and Bruges. Not far behind are Ghent, Antwerp, The Hague, Maastricht, Delft, Leiden, and Luxembourg City, among others. Some of these stellar places can’t fit on this itinerary. (Don’t blame me: It was you who decided to come for only a week!) Travel between the cities listed here is easy—I recommend getting around by car or riding Belgium and Holland’s excellent trains.

Day 1: Arrive in Amsterdam

Day 2: The Hague The Dutch seat of government is a 50-minute train ride from Amsterdam. Parliament is in the heart of town, in the Binnenhof and Ridderzaal (p.360), and you can take a guided tour if you’ve planned ahead. Visit the Koninklijk Kabinet van Schilderijen (p.362), in the Mauritshuis palace, for its superb paintings by the Old Dutch and Flemish Masters. Then hop on a tram and take a short ride to the seacoast at Scheveningen (p.368), where you can breathe fresh sea air and have coffee at the

Belgium & Holland in 1 Week

Get in early and get going—time is of the essence! First up is a 1-hour canal cruise (p.314). This is the Dutch capital’s tourist-trap par excellence, but it is also the very best way to view much of this canal-threaded city in a reasonable time. Now choose just one—a tough decision that will depend on your own interests—from Amsterdam’s three standout museums: the Van Gogh Museum (p.304), the Rijksmuseum (p.301), or the Anne Frank House (p.300). A walk in the old hippie paradise Vondelpark (p.314) to clear your head can be followed by drinks at Café Americain (p. 295) on Leidseplein. Dine in the evening at a traditional Dutch restaurant like Haesje Claes (p.287) or an Indonesian one like Tempo Doeloe (p.294).

4 SUGGESTED BENELUX ITINERARIES

of the line is Wallonia. The art cities of Tournai and Mons, and the scenic resort towns of the Meuse River valley and the Ardennes, are the attractions of this region. Then there’s Brussels, the capital, roughly in the geographic middle, and going off on a trajectory of its own as the “capital of Europe.” HOLLAND The Netherlands is a wysiwyg kind of country: What you see is what you get. There are no dramatic canyons or towering peaks. The nation’s highest point wouldn’t top the roof of a New York City skyscraper, and its average altitude is just 11m (37 ft.) above sea level. This makes for few panoramic vantage points; you can’t see most of its canals and lakes until you’re about to fall into them. Does this mean the views are boring? The answer is a flat “no.” As the famous 17th-century Dutch landscape painters showed the world, vistas in Holland are among the most aesthetic anywhere: wide-angle views of green pastures and floating clouds, with tiny houses, church spires, and grazing cattle silhouetted against the horizon. LUXEMBOURG At first sight, Luxembourg—a county-size nation with a population barely bigger than a small- to medium-size city—might appear to have an obvious provincial aspect. But size isn’t everything, and, in this case at least, small really is beautiful. Luxembourg packs into its handful of square miles a fascinating little capital city and an enviable roster of cultural diversity and scenic splendor.

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Seeing Belgium & Holland in One Week

Belgium & Holland in 1 Week

Enjoying Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg with Kids

SUGGESTED BENELUX ITINERARIES

Suggested Benelux Itineraries

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Belgium & Holland in 1 Week

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Seeing Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg in Two Weeks

SUGGESTED BENELUX ITINERARIES

Taking a Nature Lover’s Tour

splendid Steigenberger Kurhaus Hotel (p. 371) before taking the tram back to The Hague to catch a late-afternoon train to Brussels.

Day 3: Brussels If you don’t want to be packing and unpacking every day, lodge in Brussels and do Belgium’s other historic cities as easy day trips. In the “capital of Europe,” start out at the Grand-Place (p. 103), taking time to absorb the magnificent old square’s architectural details and animated spirit. A date with Rubens, Bruegel, Magritte, and other notable Belgian artists awaits you in the elegant Musées Royaux des BeauxArts de Belgique (p.112). Next you might want to stroll amid trees, fountains, and lawns in the Parc de Bruxelles (p.117), and view the Palais Royal (p.113) and the Belgian Parliament building, the Palais de la Nation (p.117), on opposite sides of the park. In the evening, dine at ’t Kelderke (p.99), a traditional Brussels restaurant on the Grand-Place.

Day 4: Bruges’s Medieval Splendor

SUGGESTED BENELUX ITINERARIES

Belgium & Holland in 1 Week

By train, Bruges is just an hour from Brussels. Once you arrive, hire wheels at the rail station or at a store in town and you can easily tour the city by bicycle (p.135). A must-do is a canal cruise (p.153); this will mark you indelibly as a tourist, but what you lose in street cred you’ll make up for by seeing a lot in a short time. Later, stroll around the connected medieval central squares Burg (p.145) and Markt (p.144). On the Burg, visit the Basiliek van het Heilig-Bloed (p.145) for a glimpse of a relic that’s said to be drops of Christ’s blood; on the Markt, climb the Belfry (p.144) for splendid city views. Next, head to the Kantcentrum (p. 149) and watch how Bruges’s handmade lace is crafted.

Day 5: Ghent Just a half-hour train ride from Brussels, Ghent has a different, thoroughly Flemish character. Scoot to the center of town by tram, and get your bearings by climbing the stairs or taking the elevator up above the city’s rooftops to the 14th-century Belfry’s (p. 162) viewing platform. Across elegant Sint-Baafsplein from the Belfry, SintBaafskathedraal (p.163) holds a great medieval artwork: Jan van Eyck’s altarpiece The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb (1432). From the cathedral, stroll to the medieval inner harbor along Korenlei and Graslei (p.165 and 165), past the forbidding castle of the counts of Flanders, the Gravensteen (p. 162), and then go through the restored medieval Patershol district (p.167).

Day 6: Antwerp Forty minutes by train from Brussels, Antwerp is Belgium’s second-largest city. Make the most of your time here by riding a tram to the center of town. Visit the Grote Markt (p.177) to view its dramatic Brabo sculpture-fountain, and then stop for a bolleke (round glass) of Antwerp’s De Koninck beer at the grand old tavern Den Engel (p.184), on the square. Antwerp means Rubens; to learn more about the artist, go to his former home, the Rubenshuis (p.176), and view his paintings at the Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Kunsten Antwerpen (p.175). Back at Antwerp Centraal Station, stroll briefly around the city’s celebrated (though not exactly handsome) Diamond Quarter (p.178) before catching your train.

Day 7: Back to Amsterdam If you have an early flight home from Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport, you’ll be happy to know that Thalys high-speed and InterCity Express trains to Amsterdam 62

from Brussels and Antwerp stop at Schiphol. If, on the other hand, you have time to kill in Amsterdam but don’t want to stray too far from Centraal Station, take a short ride onboard a harbor ferry (p. 271) from the Waterplein-West dock behind the station, for fine views of Amsterdam harbor. More time might permit you to visit historic Haarlem (p.330).

BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG IN 2 WEEKS If you have 2 weeks in the Benelux lands, you’ll breathe more easily. You can stroll where you might otherwise have needed to hop on a city tram or bus, and you’ll have time to visit Luxembourg. Yes, there’s a lot to be said for having 2 weeks. This itinerary is designed for you to travel by car, but you can do most of it by train and an occasional bus. You’ll just need to modify some elements to allow for the additional time it will take to get around.

4 With 2 weeks, you can take your time—all the while looking cool and laid-back. But before you do the cool thing, I suggest you don a disguise and step onboard a touristy canal cruise boat (p.314). The view of Amsterdam is best from the water, and how else are you going to get it? Afterward, stroll along the 17th-century Golden Age Canal Belt (p. 292)—comprising the Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and Prinsengracht canals—starting out at the Westerkerk (p.310) and going by way of Leidseplein (p.269) to Rembrandtplein. For dinner, head to the fine canal-side eetcafé De Prins (p.295).

Day 2: More of Amsterdam’s Best

Day 3: The IJsselmeer Today go by car north out of Amsterdam along the western shore of the IJsselmeer (p.337), a freshwater lake that was once a sea known as the Zuiderzee. Go through Marken (p.339), Monnickendam (p.339), Volendam (p.338), Edam (p.340), Hoorn (p. 342), Enkhuizen (p. 343), and Medemblik (p. 345). Cross over the Afsluitdijk (p.346), the great barrier completed in 1932 that closed off the mouth of the Zuiderzee. Turn south along the eastern IJsselmeer shore, through Makkum (p.401), Hindeloopen (p.402), Stavoren (p.403), and Urk (p.450), before driving across the flat polders of Flevoland province (p.426) back to Amsterdam.

Day 4: Driving to Arnhem Get on the road again, heading southeast to Arnhem. Places worth taking in along the way include Breukelen (p.432), the village from which Brooklyn, New York, takes its name (it even has a Breukelen Bridge!) and Utrecht (p. 426) for a brief stroll

Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg in 2 Weeks

This morning you have to make a choice—between the Van Gogh Museum (p.304), the Rijksmuseum (p.301), or the Anne Frank House (p.300). (If you want to visit Anne’s wartime refuge, try to go as early as possible.) In the afternoon, tour the Red Light District (p.313), or, if that sounds like an indecent proposal, walk instead through the old artisans’—now trendified—Jordaan district (p.312). For dinner, try Haesje Claes (p. 287), a traditional Dutch restaurant, or Tempo Doeloe (p.294) for Indonesian cuisine.

SUGGESTED BENELUX ITINERARIES

Day 1: Arrive in Amsterdam

through this historic ecclesiastical city’s canal-threaded Old Town. Arnhem (p.438) was the target of a gallant but doomed Allied airborne assault in World War II. Visit the nearby Hoge Veluwe National Park (p. 436)—where you can get around slowly on foot, or faster by borrowing a free white bicycle—and the surprising Kröller-Müller Museum (p.437) at its heart, which contains no fewer than 278 works by Vincent van Gogh.

Day 5: Drive to Maastricht This morning head south to Nijmegen (p.441), once a Roman legionary fortress and later a favorite seat of the Frank king Charlemagne. When you hit the Maas River at Grave, follow its course south. A brief side excursion through Thorn (p.480), the comely “white village,” can break up the journey on your way to Maastricht (p.470). This most southerly Dutch city’s squares and cobblestone streets are filled with southern charm, not to mention plenty of fine restaurants and cafes.

Day 6: Spa

SUGGESTED BENELUX ITINERARIES

Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg in 2 Weeks

Just over an hour’s drive from Maastricht is Spa, Belgium’s elegant “town of waters.” When you arrive, tour the mineral springs in the forests around the town. Then follow an easy circuit from Spa through the northern Ardennes (p.237). Along the way, take in Eupen (p.249), the diminutive “capital” of Belgium’s small German-speaking community, and the Hautes Fagnes Nature Reserve (p.250), where you might want to take time out for a hike on this invariably wind-swept high moorland. Then pass through Malmédy, the attraction park at Coo (Trois Ponts), and Stavelot.

Day 7: Luxembourg City Driving south through the Ardennes in Belgium and Luxembourg, by way of Bastogne (p.241), today you’ll make your way toward Luxembourg-Ville, the capital of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. Stroll its streets and squares, with their affluent yet somewhat Ruritanian air. View the dramatic gorge that separates the Old Town from the New Town, and take in the casemates (p.496), remnants of once powerful fortifications; the grand duke’s seat in the Palais Grand-Ducal (p.497); and the elegant Cathédrale Notre-Dame (p.496).

Day 8: Namur On the eighth day, a 2-hour drive on the expressway from Luxembourg City brings you to Namur, on the Meuse River. For a more scenic route, go by way of Abbaye NotreDame d’Orval (p.240), which will add an hour or two to your drive. In Namur visit the hilltop Citadelle (p. 218), and stroll through Le Corbeil (p. 219), the town’s oldest quarter. A short, charming out-of-town excursion is along the Meuse to Dinant (p.224), which you can combine with a visit to some magnificent gardens, the Jardins d’Annevoie (p.222). In the evening, try your luck at Namur’s casino (p.222).

Day 9: Brussels Today, you’ll scoot along the expressway to Belgium’s capital. The magnificent Grand-Place (p.103) is an ideal staring point for the drive. You might also want to fit in a “pilgrimage” to the nearby Manneken-Pis statue (p.110). Following this, stop off at the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique (p.112) to view works by Rubens, Bruegel, Magritte, and other notable Belgian artists. Then stroll amid Masonic symbols in the Parc de Bruxelles (p.117), stopping to view the Palais Royal (p.113) and the Palais de la Nation (Parliament; p.117)—on opposite

sides of the park. In the evening, dine on the Grand-Place at ’t Kelderke, a traditional Bruxellois restaurant.

Day 10: More of Brussels’s Best After breakfast, go shopping (or even just window-shopping) at the 19th-century Galeries Royales St-Hubert (p.122), and then make your way to the Cathédrale des Sts-Michel-et-Gudule (p.114). Go up onto rue Royale and take a tram to place du Grand Sablon (p.109) to browse its antiques stores (or, on weekends, the antiques market). When you’re finished there, cross over rue de la Régence to tranquil place du Petit Sablon (p.109) and enjoy a rest in its central garden. In the afternoon, take a trip to the Atomium (p. 118) and the Bruparck (p. 85) complex on Brussels’s northern edge or to the battlefield of Waterloo (p.130), just south of the city.

Day 11: Bruges

Day 12: More of Bruges’s Best This morning, try to visit the Groeningemuseum (p.148) to view its fine collection of works by the Flemish Old Masters dubbed the “Flemish Primitives.” Next, stroll through the courtyard of the 15th-century, Burgundian-era Palace of the Lords of Gruuthuse, now the Bruggemuseum-Gruuthuse (p. 149). On the way to the Prinselijk Begijnhof ten Wijngaarde (p. 150), pop into Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (p.150) to see its Madonna and Child sculpture by Michelangelo. In the afternoon, if you have time, consider taking a side trip to the nearby canal-side village of Damme (p.157).

Day 13: Ghent

4 SUGGESTED BENELUX ITINERARIES

Not much more than an hour on the expressway (once you’ve broken free from Brussels’s congested ring road), Bruges is the Benelux’s prime medieval property. Do a canal cruise (p.153) to give yourself an easy introduction to the city’s layout and character. Afterward, stroll around the connected medieval Burg (p.145) and Markt (p. 144) central squares. On the Burg, visit the Basiliek van het Heilig-Bloed (p.145) for a glimpse of a relic that’s said to be drops of Christ’s blood; on the Markt, climb the Belfry (p. 144) for splendid city views. In the late afternoon, go to the Kantcentrum (p.149) and see how Bruges’s handmade lace is crafted.

& Antwerp

Day 14: Back to Amsterdam From Antwerp, Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport is just a couple hours up the expressway. If you have time before your flight, consider spending it in one of the following places (all close to the airport): In spring, breathe in the scent from millions of flowers at Keukenhof Gardens (p. 350), in Lisse; at other times of year, tour sites in Leiden (p.390) associated with the Pilgrims. Should neither option appeal, perhaps you’d prefer a visit to the beach at Zandvoort (p.335).

Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg in 2 Weeks

These two Flemish cities are close to Bruges and close together—by road, Ghent is 53km/33 miles from Bruges; Antwerp is 91km/56 miles from Bruges and 64km/40 miles from Ghent. When you arrive in Ghent, head to its central district and up to the top of the 14th-century Belfry (p.162) for beautiful city views. In nearby SintBaafskathedraal (p.163), you’ll lay eyes on a medieval masterpiece: Jan van Eyck’s The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb (1432). From the cathedral, stroll to the medieval inner harbor along Korenlei and Graslei (p.165 and 165). Next it’s on to Antwerp. Here visit the Grote Markt (p.177) and view its dramatic Brabo sculpture-fountain. For an insight into the artist Rubens, visit his home, the Rubenshuis (p.176).

BELGIUM, HOLLAND & LUXEMBOURG FOR FAMILIES The young folks’ll be pleased to learn there’s more to the Benelux lands than paintings by Old Masters (sigh!); Gothic architecture (groan!); struggling with French, Dutch, and Lëtzebuergesch (aak!); and eating mussels (no way!). Actually, you don’t need to worry too much about the lingo throughout most of this region since many natives speak English. And there are hundreds of fun family-friendly things to see and do in these three countries—remember, Benelux burghers have kids, too!

Day 1: Brussels

SUGGESTED BENELUX ITINERARIES

Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg for Families

Whenever the kids step out of line in Brussels, uttering these magic words should get their attention: “Maybe we should tour the European Union administrative buildings today.” I’d wager that they (and you) would prefer the Atomium (p.118). And while you’re there, in the city’s northern Bruparck district, think about touring MiniEurope (p.119). Back in the center of town, treat the kids to an exposé of bold little Manneken-Pis (p.110); grown-ups usually wonder what all the fuss is about, but kids love him. By the way: Going around the city by tram (p.86) can’t hurt.

Day 2: More of Brussels Boys, especially, might want to take a look under the hood of Autoworld (p.113) today. And is it being sexist to suggest that the girls might prefer costumes and lace at the Musée du Costume et de la Dentelle (p.116)? Both genders will likely agree that the comic strips and characters at the Centre Belge de la BandeDessinée (p.118) are pretty cool.

Day 3: Bruges In this historic Flemish city, you can swerve past Old Masters, Gothic architecture, and mussel-slurping diners in one fast move. Achieve this satisfying feat by visiting the Boudewijn Seapark (p.153) or the Kinderboerderij Domein De Zeven Torentjes (p.153)—or both. The open-top canal cruise boats (p.153) are another good bet. And it’s safe to go around by rented pedal-bike (p.135) in the center of town.

Day 4: The Belgian Coast A day at the seacoast is a no-brainer for families, especially in summer—building sandcastles on the beach, swimming in the sea, and riding beach buggies. You can go from one end of Belgium’s seacoast to the other onboard the amazing Coast Tram (p.190). At Ostend there’s the Noordzeeaquarium (p.194), and the museum ships Mercator (p.193) and Amandine (p.194). Up the coast at Knokke-Heist, allow some time to check out the bird sanctuary at Provinciaal Natuurpark Zwin (p.197).

Day 5: Antwerp Begin the fifth day in Antwerp, with a visit to Belgium’s only traditional zoo (p.179). Then, in the afternoon, cross over to Aquatopia (p.179). For other options, consider a cruise (p.180) downriver to the harbor.

Days 6 & 7: The Ardennes From Antwerp, the drive here takes long enough that I’d suggest allocating 2 days for your family’s visit to Han-sur-Lesse (p.243). On the first day, drive to the village and

visit the Grottes de Han underground caverns; the next day, spend some time at the Réserve d’Animaux Sauvages (p.243) before moving on.

Day 8: Rotterdam Today make your way to the Euromast (p.375) for the greatest views of Rotterdam. Afterward, you’ll probably need to choose between a boat tour (p.377) through the city’s vast harbor and a visit to the outstanding Blijdorp Zoo (p.377), but if you have time for both, by all means fit them in.

Day 9: Amsterdam

Day 10: More of Amsterdam Today choose between a visit to Madame Tussaud’s (p. 311) and the Science Center NEMO (p.311)—either one is worthwhile, but both in a single day can be too much, unless it’s raining. By way of variation, you could try in-line skating in Vondelpark (p. 314), ice skating at Jaap Eden IJsbanen (p. 317), or bowling at Knijn Bowling (p.316).

Day 11: Dolphins & Sailing Ships

Day 12: Enkhuizen This town lies on the western shore of the IJsselmeer, a freshwater lake that until 1932 was a sea known as the Zuiderzee. Enkhuizen hosts the superb Zuiderzeemuseum (p.344), which aims to recreate traditional life around the transformed sea. Between getting to and from Enkhuizen and visiting both sections of this large museum, you’ll need most of a day to do it all justice.

Day 13: Zandvoort Always supposing the weather is good, there’s nothing your standard young Amsterdammer likes more than to take a train for the short ride to Amsterdam’s favorite seacoast resort, Zandvoort (p.335), on the North Sea. The locals will do this in all but the most abysmal weather, but if it’s really too bad for the seacoast, try instead the neat little Visitor Center at the Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Wood; p.314). You can peruse the nature displays here and get out and about in the park if the weather picks up.

Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg for Families

From Amsterdam (your base), drive east today to Harderwijk and visit the outstanding Dolfinarium Harderwijk (p.435). Cross over into Flevoland province and head to Lelystad. Here, at Batavia Wharf (p.449), a full-size replica of a 17th-century sailing ship, the Batavia, is moored, and a man-of-war from the same century, De Zeven Provinciën, is being constructed.

4 SUGGESTED BENELUX ITINERARIES

Going around Amsterdam by tram (p.270) is fun for the whole family. I’m not sure, though, about going by bicycle (p.272); parents might need to spend too much time watching out for the kids. I suppose it all depends on what age the children are, and how good they are on strange bikes. A canal boat cruise (p.314) is a good idea. A visit to the Anne Frank House (p. 300) is interesting and thought-provoking for children, in particular for those as old as Anne was when she hid from the Nazis here and wrote her famous diary. After this, try the Artis Zoo (p.311), or—if you’ve had enough of zoos by now—go onboard the Amsterdam, a full-size replica 18th-century ocean-going sailing ship. The Maritime Museum that is the ship’s usual home is closed until the summer of 2011, but the ship is still open for business, tied up just across the water at NEMO (see below).

Day 14: Back to Brussels One way to break the monotony of a 3-hour drive back to Brussels is to stop off at the cluster of windmills at Kinderdijk (p.383), close to Rotterdam.

A NATURE LOVER’S TOUR The natural world exists in Benelux, and not only in the great landscape paintings by 17th-century Dutch Old Masters. This tour takes you to some of the region’s prettiest nature reserves, national parks, and scenic places.

Day 1: Arrive in Amsterdam

SUGGESTED BENELUX ITINERARIES

A Nature Lover's Tour

In your rented car from Schiphol Airport, swing nimbly past the city’s Red Light District haunts and dope dens, on the ring road expressway. Head north to Den Helder (p.352), at the tip of the Noord-Holland peninsula. From the harbor, cross over on the ferry (with or without your car) to Texel (p.353), the largest of Holland’s string of Wadden Islands. Departing from the EcoMare visitor center (p.354), tour groups visit nature reserves that together cover a third of the island, and observe the many different species of birds that pass this way.

Day 2: Drive to Apeldoorn Spend the morning on Texel before crossing over on the ferry back to Den Helder. Drive to “Royal Apeldoorn,” a good home base for visiting the Hoge Veluwe National Park tomorrow.

Day 3: Hoge Veluwe National Park Enjoy a full day at the national park (p.436), which has a landscape consisting of heathland, sand drifts, and forest. The park’s animal inhabitants include deer, wild boar, and mouflon. Get around by borrowing a free national park bicycle.

Day 4: Drive to Dordrecht Dordrecht, a town close to Rotterdam, is the northern access point to the Biesbosch National Park (p. 465), a freshwater tidal zone of wetlands, marshes, and partly drowned islands in the Maas and Waal river estuary. Visit the northern sector today, from the Biesboschcentrum Dordrecht (p.465).

Day 5: The Southern Biesbosch On the fifth day, drive to the southern access point for the Biesbosch National Park (p. 465) at Drimmelen, and tour the southern sector from the Biesbosch Bezoekerscentrum Staatsbosbeheer, in Drimmelen (p.465).

Day 6: Drive to Eupen A small town that’s the “capital” of Belgium’s German-speaking East Cantons district, Eupen (p.249) is a convenient base for getting out to the nearby Hautes Fagnes Nature Reserve (in German, the Hohes Venn; p.250).

Day 7: The Hautes Fagnes Walk along the boardwalks and forest trails that snake through the Hautes Fagnes (p.250). Stop by the Botrange Visitor Center (p.250) and other access points at Mont-Rigi and Baraque Michel. If there’s time, check out another piece of the park on the Eupen-Monschau (Germany) road, Haus Ternell. 68

Day 8: Drive to De Panne At the opposite end of Belgium, right next to the French border, this North Sea coast resort is home to the Westhoekreservaat (Westhoek Reserve) dunes landscape (p.202). Take a few hours to tour the reserve.

Day 9: Het Zwin Nature Reserve Today drive to the northern end of the Belgian coast and visit Het Zwin (p.197), a small but important breeding and feeding ground for seabirds and wetlands birds.

Day 10: Back to Amsterdam Head north into Holland’s Zeeland province, and cross over the Western Schelde estuary by the road tunnel. Continue to Rotterdam and the expressway north to Schiphol Airport.

A MILITARY BUFF’S TOUR OF THE BENELUX

Day 1: Waterloo South of Brussels, the French emperor Napoleon Bonaparte met final defeat at the Battle of Waterloo (p.130) in 1815. A tour of this largely preserved battlefield and a visit to the duke of Wellington’s headquarters, now the Musée Wellington (p.131), afford a fascinating insight into the great and decisive battle.

Day 2: Drive to Ypres (Ieper)

Day 3: Drive to Bastogne Drive east past Tournai and Mons, to the Meuse River at Namur (p.219). Continuing eastward into the rolling Ardennes hills (p.237), you’ll pass the scenes of many a hard-fought action from the Battle of the Bulge in the winter of 1944 to 1945, at places like Marche-en-Famenne, Rochefort, and La Roche-en-Ardenne. None was harder than the epic struggle surrounded U.S. troops waged to hold the strategic crossroads town of Bastogne (p.241). Afterward, visit the star-shaped Mardasson Memorial (p.242) outside of town.

Day 4: Drive to Eupen

A Military Buff's Tour of the Benelux

A 2-hour drive from Brussels, bypassing Ghent and Kortrijk, brings you to the medieval cloth town of Ypres (p.203), a crucible of fighting on the World War I Western Front that claimed the lives of 500,000 Allied and German soldiers. The now peaceful Flanders fields are sprinkled with military cemeteries and a few remaining sections of trenches.

4 SUGGESTED BENELUX ITINERARIES

I call this a “military buff ’s tour,” but it may be more appropriate to think of it as a military memorial tour. Belgium and Luxembourg have long histories as battlefields, usually in other countries’ quarrels. Belgium was particularly badly handled in World War I, and Holland had a similar experience in World War II. Although this itinerary revolves around a grim subject, it also passes through scenic parts of all three countries. The tour is best done by car.

Cross into Luxembourg today. Starting at Echternach (p.509), follow the Our River upstream along the German border. This was a thinly manned but staunchly 69

defended U.S. front line on December 16, 1944, when the surprise German offensive in the Ardennes erupted. Pass through Vianden (p. 508) and Clervaux (p. 507); then take the road in Belgium the GI’s dubbed the “Skyline Drive,” to Sankt-Vith. From Losheim to Rocherath-Krinkelt, you’ll cross the assault route taken by Hitler’s elite SS divisions. Foxholes once held by American troops still exist in the forests. The U.S. Fifth Corps headquarters was in Eupen (p.249).

Day 5: Drive to Nijmegen Take the expressway via Liège and Maastricht, for rapid deployment to Eindhoven (p.468), the scene of action for the U.S. 101st Airborne Division during the Allied offensive into Nazi-occupied Holland in September 1944. Follow the bitterly contested “Hell’s Highway” north through Veghel and Grave to Nijmegen (p.441). The U.S. 82nd Airborne Division suffered heavy losses taking and holding the Groesbeek Heights east of town, and the bridges over the Maas River at Grave and the Waal River in Nijmegen.

SUGGESTED BENELUX ITINERARIES

A Military Buff's Tour of the Benelux

Day 6: Arnhem From Nijmegen north to Arnhem (p.438) is just 16km (10 miles)—a distance that proved fatal for Britain’s 1st Airborne Division, which landed on heathland west of the city to take Arnhem’s bridge over the Rhine—the famous “bridge too far.” The British held out for a week at Oosterbeek (p. 439). Polish paratroops landed at nearby Driel.

Day 7: Return to Brussels An expressway goes southwest from Arnhem to connect with the north-south expressway at Breda. From there go south via Antwerp to Brussels.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELGIUM

elgium is not a difficult country to come to grips with—thanks to its widespread use of English, relatively small size, and excellent tourist infrastructure—

but a little forethought when planning your trip can still save you precious time and effort. This chapter gives you some of the practical information you need to plan your trip.

For information that covers planning and tips for the Benelux countries in general, see chapter 3.

THE REGIONS IN BRIEF Modest little Belgium has never been known to boast of its charms, yet its variety of language, culture, history, and cuisine would do credit to a country many times its size. Belgium’s diversity stems from its location at the cultural crossroads of Europe. The boundary between the Continent’s Germanic north and Latin south cuts clear across the nation’s middle, leaving Belgium divided into two major ethnic regions: Dutch-speaking Flanders and French-speaking Wallonia. Although international attention is focused on Brussels as the “capital of Europe,” there’s another Belgium waiting in the wings, of Gothic cathedrals, medieval castles, cobblestone streets, and tranquil canals. The timeless beauty of Bruges and Ghent are accessible even to the most hurried visitor, and to get away from it all, there’s no better place than the unhurried Ardennes. BRUSSELS In a sense, Brussels has a split personality. One is the brash “capital of Europe,” increasingly aware of its power and carrying a padded expense account in its elegant leather pocketbook. The other is the old Belgian city—once a seat of emperors, but lately more than a little provincial, tenaciously hanging onto its heritage against the wave of Euroconstruction that has swept over it. These two cities intersect, of course, generally in a popular bar or restaurant, though they may sit together uneasily. Most foreigners who live here long enough, or who stay on an extended vacation, find they need to choose between the two. As an outsider, it’s easy enough to live

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELGIUM

The Regions in Brief

in the Eurocity. Getting below the surface to the real Brussels is more difficult, but worth the effort. BRUGES From its 13th-century origins as a cloth-manufacturing town to its current incarnation as a tourism mecca, the main town of West Flanders province seems to have changed little. As in a fairy tale, swans glide down the winding canals, and the stone houses look as if they’re made of gingerbread. Even though glass-fronted stores have taken over the ground floors of ancient buildings, and swans scatter before tour boats chugging along the canals, Bruges has made the transition from medieval to modern with remarkable grace. The town seems revitalized rather than crushed by the tremendous influx of tourists. GHENT & ANTWERP The old town at the confluence of the Scheldt and Leie rivers has been spruced up, and Ghent has never looked so good. Although this former seat of the powerful counts of Flanders is larger and seems more like a “real” city than Bruges, it has enough cobblestone streets, meandering canals, and antique Flemish architecture to make it nearly as magical as its more famous sister. Antwerp is a port city, with all the liveliness, sophistication, and occasional seediness that goes along with this. The city is the acknowledged “Diamond Center of the World,” the leading market for cut diamonds and second only to London as an outlet for raw and industrial diamonds. It boasts a magnificent cathedral, a fine-arts museum full of Flemish masterpieces, a maze of medieval streets in the town center, and a vibrant cultural life. THE BELGIAN COAST & YPRES At the center of the seacoast is Ostend, the “Queen of the Coast.” It retains a little of the cachet and some of the ambience of its great days as a 19th-century beach resort. It’s complemented by more modern resorts such as Knokke-Heist and De Panne. Having suffered through centuries of intermittent warfare and almost total destruction during World War I, Ypres (Ieper) has picked itself up in the years since, its indomitable spirit intact—a spirit that shines in the perseverance underlying its 20th-century rebuilding of 13th-century buildings.

Visitor Information

LIÈGE, THE MEUSE RIVER & HAINAUT The rugged Meuse

River valley, the heartland of Frenchspeaking Wallonia, is speckled with For contact details of the Belgian tourresort towns in which fine cuisine is a ist offices in the United States, Britain, way of life. A visit to Liège, Namur, and other countries, see “Visitor InforHuy, and Dinant after traveling to mation,” in chapter 21. Brussels and the Flemish art cities of Bruges and Ghent adds another dimension to Belgium. Tucked into an area south of Brussels that stretches to the French border, Hainaut, Belgium’s “Green Province,” can seem isolated from the mainstream of Belgian life, yet it possesses prime assets in the historic towns of Mons and Tournai. THE ARDENNES Belgium’s wildest, most heavily forested region—part of the rugged Ardennes-Eifel Massif, which stretches across into Germany, Luxembourg, and France—is its least populated. French is the most common language, but in the northeast, in the area called the Ostkantone (East Cantons), you most often hear German spoken, a residue from the years before 1919 when this part of the Ardennes belonged to Germany.

Belgium NORTH SEA

NETHERLANDS

Zeebrugge

Ostend

E19

Antwerp

Bruges (Brugge) OOSTWESTE40 VLAANDEREN VLAANDEREN E17

Ghent

Roeselare Ypres (Ieper)

(Gent) E17

(Antwerpen) ANTWERPEN

E34

E313

Mechelen Schelde Aalst VLAAMS- E314 BRABANT Leuven

LIMBURG

BRUSSELS

Hasselt

Genk

(BRUXELLES/ BRUSSEL)

Wavre Waterloo BRABANT- E40 E40 WALLON E42 HAINAUT Liège E411 Eupen Mons E42 E42 Verviers Huy e LIÈGE Namur M e us Charleroi S NAMUR

Tournai

E46

Dinant E411

Bastogne LUXEMBOURG E46

30 km

WHEN TO GO “In season” in Belgium means from mid-April to mid-October. The peak of the tourist season is July and August, when the weather is at its finest, but you’ll find Belgium every bit as attractive during other months. Not only are airlines, hotels, and restaurants cheaper and less crowded during this time (with more relaxed service, which means you get more personal attention), but some very appealing events are going on. For example, Brussels swings into its rich music season in April, and Tournai turns out for the colorful thousand-year-old Procession of the Plague the second Sunday in September.

Although there is a world of difference between the seacoast on a summer’s day and the high moorland of the Hautes Fagnes in the Ardennes in the dead of winter, Belgium’s climate is generally moderate, with few extremes in temperature either in summer or winter. It does rain a lot, though there are more showers than downpours. (It’s a good idea to pack a raincoat.) Temperatures are lowest in December and January, when they average 42°F (6°C), and highest in July and August, when they average 73°F (23°C). In the springtime, when the parks are coming up flowers, the first sidewalk tables put in a tentative appearance, but the weather can be variable. July and August are the best months for soaking up rays at a sidewalk cafe, dining at an outdoor restaurant

When to Go

Climate

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELGIUM

Arlon

30 mi

E42

E25

Bouillon

LUXEM

FRANCE

G E R M A N Y

(Oostende)

in the evening, and swimming and sunbathing at the seacoast. September usually has a few weeks of fine late-summer weather, and there are even sunny spells in winter, when brilliant, crisp weather alternates with clouded skies. In the hilly, forested Ardennes, autumn’s falling leaves bring out visitors searching for the finest fall colors. It’s not quite New England, but it’s spectacular enough, and any shortcomings on the color spectrum are compensated for by the culinary feasts on the menus of the many great restaurants here, during the hunting season for wild game. Winter snow in the Ardennes attracts cross-country and downhill skiers to the region’s handful of ski lifts and short runs. Winters at the coast, moderated a touch by the North Sea, most often are rainy. Expect lots of gray skies in Brussels—Eurocrats from sunny Mediterranean lands confess to going stir-crazy for the sight of blue skies and sun during winter in the capital. You’re well advised to pack a fold-up umbrella at any time of year; likewise, carry a raincoat (with a wool liner for winter). Second, pack a sweater or two (even in July), and be prepared to layer your clothing at any time of year. Don’t worry: In the summer, you can leave some space for T-shirts, skimpy tops, and sneakers. For local weather forecasts, go to www.meteo.be.

Brussels’s Average Monthly Temperature & Days of Rain

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELGIUM

Belgium Calendar of Events

JAN 38 TEMP. (°C) 3 DAYS OF RAIN (OR SNOW) 21 TEMP. (°F)

FEB 38 3 17

MAR 44 7 17

APR 48 9 18

MAY JUNE JULY 55 60 64 13 16 18 16 15 17

AUG 64 18 18

SEPT 59 15 13

OCT 52 11 17

NOV 44 7 20

DEC 40 4 19

Holidays National holidays are January 1 (New Year’s Day); Easter Sunday and Monday; May 1 (Labor Day); Ascension Thursday; Pentecost Sunday and Monday; July 21 (Independence Day); August 15 (Assumption); November 1 (All Saints); November 11 (World War I Armistice Day); and December 25 (Christmas Day). In Flanders only, July 11 is Flemish Community Day, the anniversary of the Battle of the Golden Spurs in 1302. In Wallonia only, September 27 is French Community Day, recalling liberation from Dutch rule in 1830.

Belgium Calendar Of Events Belgium is big on festivals. You could arrive in a town or village to find the populace turned out in costume to honor with all due solemnity (followed by some fun and games) the local cheese. The country has a lively and colorful Carnival tradition that includes, in the otherwise unremarkable town of Binche, one that’s among the most spectacular in Europe. The Festival of Flanders cultural program runs throughout Flanders from September to June. Contact Festival van Vlaanderen (&012/23-57-19; www.festival.be). The Festival of Wallonia puts on classical music throughout Wallonia from September to June. Contact Festival de Wallonie (&081/73-37-81; www.festivaldewallonie.be). More information about what’s on and where, is available from www.agenda.be. For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you’ll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what’s happening in cities all over the world.

JANUARY Bommelfeesten (Festival of Fools), Ronse. The main action of this traditional festival in the East Flanders town, with its masked

characters called Bommels, has been moved from Zotte Maandag (Crazy Monday) to the preceding Saturday. Contact Dienst Toerisme Ronse (&055/23-28-16;

www.ronse.be). Weekend (Sat–Mon) closest to the Epiphany (Jan 6). Brussels Antiques and Fine Arts Fair. The top Belgian antiques dealers and selected dealers from abroad get together to show off their wares in the Tour & Taxis convention center at the city’s old port. Contact BRAFA (& 02/513-48-31; www.brafa.be). Last 10 days of January.

FEBRUARY Carnival, Eupen. Five days of pre-Lenten revelry in the capital town of Belgium’s German-speaking district. Highlight is the Rosenmontag (Rose Monday) Procession. Contact Tourist Info Eupen (& 087/5534-50; www.eupen-info.be). Thursday to Shrove Tuesday (the day before Ash Wednesday).

Carnival, Aalst. Three days of pre-Lenten festivities, including the Giants’ Parade with the horse Bayard, onion-throwing from the roofs of the Grote Markt, and the parade of Vuil Jeannetten—men dressed as women. Contact Dienst Toerisme Aalst (&053/7322-70; www.aalst.be). Sunday to Shrove Tuesday.

MARCH Bal du Rat Mort (Dead Rat’s Ball), Ostend. This outrageous fancy-dress event takes its grisly name from a chic Paris cafe. Proceeds go to charity. Contact Toerisme

Carnival, Fosses-la-Ville. Costumed characters called Chinels parade through the streets. Contact Syndicat d’Initiative Fosses-la-Ville (& 071/71-46-24; www. fosses-la-ville.be). Saturday and Sunday 3 weeks before Easter.

APRIL Sablon Spring Baroque Music Festival, Brussels. Open-air concerts on place du Grand Sablon. Contact Brussels International Tourism (& 02/513-89-40; www. brusselsinternational.be). April/May. Brussels International Fantastic Film Festival. Science fiction and fantasy films are screened at several movie theaters around the city. Contact Peymey Diffusion (&02/ 201-17-13; www.bifff.org). April 7 to 19, 2011; similar dates in 2012. Meieavondviering (May Day’s Eve Festival), Hasselt. Celebrants plant a May Tree on the Grote Markt and burn dummies representing winter, while participants costumed as witches dance on the square. Contact VVV Hasselt (& 011/23-95-40; www.hasselt.eu). April 30.

MAY Queen Elisabeth Contest , Brussels. For promising young musicians, featuring a different instrument each year. Generally at Bozar (Palais des Beaux-Arts) and a few other venues. Contact Concours Reine Elisabeth (& 02/213-40-50; www.concoursreine-elisabeth.be). Throughout May. Kunstenfestivaldesarts, Brussels. Arts festival famed across the cultural universe for its irritatingly scrunched-up name, which means Arts Festival in both Dutch and French. It spotlights stage events, putting an emphasis on opera, theater, and dance,

Belgium Calendar of Events

Carnival , Binche. One of Europe’s most colorful street carnivals, led on Shrove Tuesday by the sumptuously costumed Gilles de Binche, modeled, or so it is believed, on Inca nobles. Contact Office du Tourisme de Binche (& 064/33-67-27; www.binche.be). Sunday to Shrove Tuesday.

Carnival, Stavelot. The Blancs Moussis, characters with long red noses and hooded white costumes, are the stars of the town’s Laetere procession. Contact Office du Tourisme de Stavelot (& 080/86-27-06; http://tourisme.stavelot.be). Sunday 3 weeks before Easter.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELGIUM

Carnival , Malmedy. The pre-Lenten festival brings good-natured mayhem to the streets of this otherwise sober town. On Sunday’s big parade, costumed characters called Banes Courants chase people through the streets, and others called Haguètes snare passersby with long wooden pincers. Contact Royal Syndicat d’Initiative de Malmedy (& 080/79-9635; www.malmedy.be). Saturday to Shrove Tuesday.

Oostende (& 059/70-11-99; www.visit oostende.be or www.ratmort.be). First Saturday in March.

but finds space for cinema, music concerts, and fine-arts exhibits. Various auditoriums and venues around town. Contact Kunstenfestivaldesarts (& 02/219-07-07; www. kfda.be). Three weeks in May. Kattenstoet (Cat Parade) , Ypres (Ieper). During the traditional Festival of the Cats, toy cats (it used to be live ones!) are thrown from the town hall belfry. Contact Toerisme Ieper (& 057/23-92-20; www. ieper.be). Every third year on the second Sunday in May (May 13, 2012). Heilig-Bloedprocessie (Procession of the Holy Blood) , Bruges. The bishop of Bruges carries a relic of the Holy Blood through the streets, while costumed characters act out biblical scenes. Contact Toerisme Brugge (& 050/44-46-46; www.brugge.be). Ascension Day (fifth Thurs after Easter): generally May, but June 2, 2011; May 17, 2012.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELGIUM

Belgium Calendar of Events

Brussels Jazz Marathon. Enjoy a long weekend of jazz of all kinds at a slew of concerts on the Grand-Place, place du Grand Sablon, and place Ste-Catherine; at other open-air venues around town; and in jazz clubs, cafes, and hotel bars. Contact Jazztronaut (& 02/456-04-84; www. brusselsjazzmarathon.be). May 28 to 30, 2011; similar dates in 2012.

JUNE Quatres Cortèges (Four Parades), Tournai. The annual parades feature flower-decked floats, a military band, and the highlight: a procession of giants representing historical characters, including King Childeric of the Franks and France’s King Louis XIV. Contact Office du Tourisme de Tournai (&069/2220-45; www.tournai.be). Second weekend in June. Ducasse de Mons (Festival of Mons) . Religious procession of guilds and the reliquary of Ste-Waltrude (St. Waudru) mounted on a golden coach. This is followed by a folkloric street performance, the Lumeçon, in which St. George slays the dragon. Contact Maison du Tourisme du Pays de Mons (& 065/33-55-80; www.monsregion.be). Holy Trinity Sunday (first Sun after Pentecost): June 19, 2011; June 3, 2012.

International Cartoon Festival, KnokkeHeist. A celebration of Belgium’s national fascination with the “Ninth Art,” as comicstrip art is dubbed by its practitioners and aficionados. Contact Toerisme KnokkeHeist (& 050/63-03-80; www.knokkeheist.info). Mid-June to early September. Couleur Café Festival, Brussels. Three days of Afro, Caribbean, and Latin music and dance, ably supported by heaps of soul food, at the Tour & Taxis cultural complex, in a former warehouse zone next to the Willebroeck Canal dock. Contact Couleur Café (www.couleurcafe.be). June 24 to 26, 2011; similar dates (Fri–Sun) 2012. Brussels Film Festival. A 9-day feast of European films, primarily of first or second features, and by independent directors, screened at the Flagey cultural center. Contact Festival du Film Européen de Bruxelles (& 02/649-40-89; www.fffb.be). Late June to early July.

JULY Entertainment, Grand-Place, Brussels. Concerts, theater, dance, exhibits, and other forms of entertainment “animate” the Grand-Place. Contact Brussels International Tourism (& 02/513-89-40; www. brusselsinternational.be). Entire month. Ommegang , Brussels. A dramatic annual historical pageant that dates from the 13th century and represents the city guilds, magistrates, and nobles honoring the Virgin Mary. Participants wearing period costume from the time of the “joyous entry” of Emperor Charles V into Brussels in 1549, escorted by a mounted cavalcade and waving medieval banners, go in procession from place du Grand Sablon to the Grand-Place. Contact Ommegang-Brussels Events (& 02/512-19-61; www.ommegang.be). First Tuesday and Thursday in July. Brosella Folk and Jazz Festival, Brussels. A small-scale specialized music fest that takes place over a weekend at the Théâtre de Verdure in Parc d’Osseghem. Contact Les Amis de Brosella (& 02/474-06-41; www.brosella.be). July 9 and 10, 2011; similar dates in 2012.

Cactus Festival, Bruges. A prickly summer rock festival unfolds over 3 days and attracts big names to the city. Contact Cactus Muziekcentrum (&050/33-20-14; www.cactusfestival.be). Mid-July. Belgian National Day, Brussels. Marked throughout Belgium but celebrated most in Brussels, with a military procession and music at the Royal Palace. Contact Brussels International Tourism (& 02/513-89-40; www.brusselsinternational.be). July 21. Gentse Feesten (Ghent Festivities) . Free street entertainment of music, dance, theater, puppet shows, and general fun and games marks the annual Ghent Festivities. Contact Dienst Feestelijkheden (& 09/ 269-46-30; www.gentsefeesten.be). July 16 to 25, 2011; July 14 to 23, 2012.

AUGUST

Planting of the Meyboom (May Pole), Brussels. Despite the name, this does happen in August, on the eve of the Feast of St. Lawrence, at the corner of rue des Sables and rue du Marais, and celebrates Brussels’s victory over Leuven in 1311 (nowadays it’s more a celebration of summer). Contact Brussels International Tourism (& 02/ 513-89-40; www.brusselsinternational.be). August 9.

Marktrock, Leuven. Three days of rock and jazz on the square in front of Leuven’s medieval Stadhuis (Town Hall). Contact Dienst Toerisme Leuven (& 016/20-3020; www.leuven.be). Mid-August.

Praalstoet van de Gouden Boom (Pageant of the Golden Tree) , Bruges. Some 2,000 costumed participants, along with giant mannequins, and parade floats reenact the lavish spectacle that accompanied the wedding of Duke of Burgundy Charles the Bold and Margaret of York in 1468. Contact Toerisme Brugge (& 050/ 44-46-46; www.brugge.be). Every fifth year: August 19, 2012.

SEPTEMBER Liberation Parade, Brussels. The Manneken-Pis statue is dressed in a Welsh Guard’s uniform in honor of the city’s liberation in 1944. Contact Brussels International Tourism (& 02/513-89-40; www. brusselsinternational.be). September 3. Grande Procession, Tournai. Commemorates a religious procession that first took place in 1090 to thank Notre-Dame des Malades (Our Lady of the Sick) for warding off the plague. Contact Office du Tourisme de Tournai (& 069/22-20-45; www. tournai.be). Second Sunday in September. Journées du Patrimoine (Heritage Days), Brussels. Taking a different theme each year, this program allows you to visit some of the finest buildings in town that are usually closed to visitors. Contact Brussels International Tourism (& 02/513-89-40; www.brusselsinternational.be). Third weekend: September 18 and 19, 2011; September 15 and 16, 2012.

OCTOBER Ghent Film Festival. Belgium’s top international film festival, and an event that has grown in stature to become one of Europe’s

Belgium Calendar of Events

Tapis des Fleurs (Carpet of Flowers) , Grand-Place, Brussels. The historic square is carpeted with two-thirds of a million begonias arranged in a kind of tapestry. Contact Brussels International Tourism (&02/51389-40; www.brusselsinternational.be). MidAugust in even-numbered years.

Reiefeesten (Canal Festival) , Bruges. Around 600 costumed participants celebrate the city’s storied history with a series of concerts, spectacles, short theater pieces, and other events. Contact Toerisme Brugge (& 050/44-46-46; www.brugge. be). Every third year: August 15 to 31, 2011.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELGIUM

Visiting the Palais Royal, Brussels. Exceptionally, the Royal Palace on place des Palais is open to free guided tours. King Albert and Queen Paola won’t be there, however. Contact Palais Royal (& 02/551-20-20; www.monarchie.be). Throughout August (dates vary year by year but generally include the last week or so of July and the first week or so of Sept).

Outremeuse Festival, Liège. Music, dance, and theater performances go along with appearances by the city’s two favorite folklore characters, Tchantchès and Nanesse. Contact Office du Tourisme de Liège (&04/221-92-21; www.liege.be). August 15.

main movie showcases. As many as 150 full-length movies and 100 shorts are screened over 12 days. Contact Filmfestival Gent (&09/242-80-60; www.filmfestival. be). Midmonth: October 11 to 22, 2011; October 9 to 20, 2012.

NOVEMBER Snow & Ice , Bruges. Cool works of ice sculpture with a too-short shelf life can be viewed on Stationsplein in front of the rail station. Contact Snow & Ice (& 050/2004-65; www.ijssculptuur.be). For 2 weeks anytime from the third week of November to mid-January.

DECEMBER

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELGIUM

Getting There & Getting Around

Christmas Market, Brussels. Stands selling seasonal trinkets, craft items, and food and drink are set up on place Ste-Catherine. Contact Brussels International Tourism (&02/ 513-89-40; www.brusselsinternational.be). Throughout the month, daily from 11am to 10pm. Christmas Market, Bruges. Stands selling seasonal trinkets, craft items, and food and drink, alongside an ice-skating rink, are set

up on the Markt. A second market is on Simon Stevinplein, daily from 11am to 7pm. Contact Toerisme Brugge (&050/44-4646; www.brugge.be). Throughout the month, daily from 11am to 10pm. Christmas Market, Ghent. Stands selling seasonal trinkets, craft items, and food and drink are set up on Sint-Baafsplein. Contact Dienst Toerisme Gent (& 09/210-10-10; www.gent.be). Throughout the month, daily from 11am to 10pm. Nativity Scene and Christmas Tree, GrandPlace, Brussels. The crib on display at this Christmas nativity scene has real animals. Contact Brussels International Tourism (& 02/513-89-40; www.brussels international.be). Throughout the month. Winter Fun, Brussels. An ice-skating rink and a big wheel are set up on the Marché aux Poissons; on neighboring place Ste-Catherine, there’s a baroque carousel. Contact Brussels International Tourism (& 02/ 513-89-40; www.brusselsinternational.be). Throughout the month.

GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND Getting There There is no shortage of travel routes into the kingdom, which occupies one of Western Europe’s transportation hubs (for the full details, see “Getting There & Around,” in chapter 3). Virtually all international flights to Belgium arrive at Brussels Airport; the only exceptions are a handful of short-haul services that fly into Antwerp, and those of budget carrier Ryanair to its base at Charleroi. The Euro In addition, there are ferry services from Britain to the ports of Zeebrugge Belgium’s currency is the euro (see and Ostend; high-speed trains from “Money & Costs,” in chapter 3). London, Paris, Amsterdam, and Cologne to Brussels (and some to Antwerp, Bruges, and Liège), along with “ordinary” international trains from around Europe; Eurolines bus service from many European cities; and multiple expressways/ motorways from France, Germany, and Holland.

Getting Around Belgium’s compact size makes it easy on travelers. The roads are excellent (though often busy), and the comprehensive rail net is one of Europe’s best.

BY TRAIN All major tourist destinations in Belgium can be done easily in a day trip by train from Brussels, on the network of the Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer Belges/ SNCB, or NMBS in Dutch (&02/528-28-28; www.b-rail.be). Antwerp is just 35 minutes away; Ghent, 34 minutes; Namur, 59 minutes; Bruges, 60 minutes; and Liège, 51 minutes. These times are by the fast InterCity (IC) trains; InterRegio (IR) trains are somewhat slower; Local (L) trains are the network’s tortoises, stopping at every station on the way. If all or most of your travel will be by train, a good investment is a Rail Pass, good for 10 single journeys anywhere on the network, except stations at international borders, within a month of it being issued. It costs 74€ in second class and 113€ in first class. The same pass for passengers ages 4 to 25 (traveling in second class only) is called a Go Pass, and costs 50€. In addition to Belgian Railways’s regular one-way (billet simple/enkele reis) and round-trip (aller et retour/retour) tickets, look for discounted B-Excursion and Weekend Ticket options. These various tickets are valid only in Belgium, and can be purchased only from train stations and other sales points in Belgium. Reducedrate tickets and passes are available for seniors, young adults, and children.

BY BUS

BY CAR

Getting There & Getting Around

Driving conditions are excellent in Belgium, with lighted highways at night. Belgian drivers, though, are not as excellent. They’re notoriously fast and aggressive and have clocked some of the worst road-accident statistics in Europe, so drive with care. RENTALS Rental cars are available from Avis (&800/331-2112 in the U.S., or & 070/22-30-01 in Belgium; www.avis.be); Europcar (& 02/348-92-12; www. europcar.be); Hertz (&800/654-3001 in the U.S., and &02/717-32-01 in Belgium; www.hertz.be); and SIXT (&02/753-25-60; www.sixt.co.uk). All four companies have desks at Brussels Airport, and rental offices (or agencies) in Brussels, Antwerp, Bruges, Ghent, and Liège, among other places. For a subcompact auto with gearshift, expect to pay from 60€ a day and 90€ for a weekend, including insurance and other charges, and for unlimited mileage. DRIVING RULES To drive in Belgium, you need only a passport, a driver’s license, and car registration papers. The minimum age for drivers is 18. On highways, speed limits are 70kmph (43 mph) minimum, 120kmph (74 mph) maximum; in all cities and urban areas, the maximum speed limit is 50kmph (31 mph). Lower limits

5 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELGIUM

Brussels, Bruges, Ghent, Antwerp, Liège, and other important cities and towns have excellent local bus service. Express InterCity bus service is not available, though you can go by bus between cities with the aid of some complicated timetable and route planning—expect this to be slow and to require transfers at intermediate points. Regional buses serve every area of Belgium, from whichever is the nearest city or large town. In general, the only part of the country where it makes sense to plan on going by bus instead of by train is the Ardennes, which has few rail lines. Fares and schedules are available from STIB (&070/23-20-00; www.stib.be) for Brussels and De Lijn (&070/22-02-00; www.delijn.be) for Flanders. TEC (www. infotec.be), which operates bus service in Wallonia, has six separate area phone numbers to call for information; you’ll find these listed on the website and in the appropriate chapters of this book.

driven CRAZY

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELGIUM

Getting There & Getting Around

The behavior of many Belgian car drivers could easily be described as “hoglike,” a moderate term employed because finding the pertinent adjective would tax even the considerable powers of the English language as an instrument of personal abuse. Part of the blame attaches to the priorité à droite (priority from the right) traffic rule, whereby in some cases (not always), traffic from the right has the right of way. You won’t believe how this plays at multiple-street intersections, particularly since many Belgians will give up their priorité under no known circumstances, cost what it might. Be ready to stop instantly at all such intersections. Note: Poles with yellow diamond signs, which you see mostly on main roads, mean that the right of way lies with traffic already on the road, so if

you are on one of these, you don’t have to stop. At rotaries, traffic entering the rotary has the right of way over traffic already on it, unless STOP lines on the road indicate otherwise. This system has caused so much mayhem it’s being changed at some accident hotspots and obvious danger zones. Not everyone knows about the changes or acts according to them, so stay alert. Hoglike driver behavior is extended to pedestrians. Don’t expect cars to stop for you just because you’re crossing at a black-and-white pedestrian crossing. Only in recent years have drivers been obliged legally to stop at these, and many don’t seem to have received or understood the message yet.

might be posted. Seat belts must be worn in both the front seats and in the back. In the car, you need to have a fire extinguisher, a basic medical kit, a red reflective warning triangle, and a reflective jacket. If you are driving a car from Britain or Ireland with the wheel on the right side, be sure to attach adapter kits that change the angle of your headlight beams. An important Belgian driving rule to be aware of is the priorité à droite (priority from the right), which makes it perfectly legal most of the time to pull out from a side road to the right of the flow of traffic. That means, of course, that you must keep a sharp eye on the side roads to your right (see “Driven Crazy,” below). ROAD MAPS Tourist offices provide excellent city, regional, and country maps. Michelin map nos. 213 and 214 cover the country; they are detailed and reliable, and are available from bookstores, news vendors, some supermarkets, and other outlets. BREAKDOWNS/ASSISTANCE A 24-hour nationwide emergency road service is offered by Touring (&070/34-47-77; www.touring.be).

BY BICYCLE Main rail stations, and some minor ones, have bicycles for rent. If you travel by train and would like to have a trusty steed awaiting you when you arrive, use the Belgian Railways Train + Vélo/Trein + Fiets (Train + Bicycle) formula to reserve a bike at the same time you buy your ticket.

ON FOOT A network of special walking, cycling, and horseback-riding routes in Wallonia provides a healthy alternative to touring by car and links scenic, off-the-beaten-track

parts of the region. RAVeL (Résau Autonome des Voies Lentes/Independent Slow Routes Network) has given new life to old ways by employing disused rail and tram routes, river and canal towpaths, and other minor paths, connected by purpose-built sections. Four main RAVeL routes and a web of secondary ones crisscross the region. Guides with maps are available from local tourist offices.

5 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELGIUM Getting There & Getting Around

BRUSSELS

russels—the headquarters of the European Union—both symbolizes Europe’s vision of unity and is a bastion of officialdom, a breeding ground for the regulations that

govern and often exasperate the rest of the Continent. The Bruxellois have mixed feelings about their city’s transformation into a power center. At first the waves of Eurocrats brought a new cosmopolitan air to a somewhat provincial city (though once the seat of emperors), but as old neighborhoods were leveled to make way for office towers, people wondered whether Brussels (pop. 1,080,000) was losing its soul. After all, this city doesn’t only mean politics and business. It inspired surrealism and Art Nouveau, it worships comic strips, it prides itself on handmade lace and chocolates, and it serves each one of its craft beers in a unique glass.

Fortunately, not all of Brussels’s individuality has been lost in this transition, and though the urban landscape has suffered from wanton development, the city’s spirit survives in traditional cafes, bars, bistros, and restaurants. Whether elegantly Art Nouveau or eccentrically festooned with posters, curios, and knickknacks, such centuries-old establishments provide a convivial ambience that is peculiarly Belgian.

ORIENTATION Arriving BY PLANE For details on air travel to Belgium, see “Getting There & Around,” in chapter 3. The country’s main international airport, Brussels Airport (&0900/70-000 in Belgium, or 02/753-77-53 from abroad; www.brussels airport.be), is 11km (7 miles) northeast of the center city. The Brussels Airport Express train service to Brussels’s three main rail stations (Bruxelles-Nord, Bruxelles-Central, and Bruxelles-Midi) has up to four departures hourly between 5:30am and 11:30pm, for a one-way fare of 5.10€ in second class and 6.70€ in first class. The ride to BruxellesCentral takes around 20 minutes. Most airport trains have wide corridors and extra space for baggage. The Airport Line bus no. 12 (Mon–Fri express) or no. 21 (Sat–Sun and holidays) depart from the airport about every half-hour to the European District in the city; the fare is 3€ for a one-way ticket purchased from a ticket machine before boarding the bus and 5€ for one purchased onboard. De Lijn bus no. 471 connects the airport every half-hour with

BY TRAIN

Orientation

High-speed Eurostar trains from London; Thalys from Paris, Amsterdam, and Cologne; TGV from France (not Paris); and ICE from Frankfurt zip into town from all points of the compass. The Brussels metropolitan area has three main rail stations: Bruxelles-Central, Carrefour de l’Europe; Bruxelles-Midi, rue de France (the Eurostar, Thalys, TGV, and ICE terminal); and Bruxelles-Nord, rue du Progrès. All three are served by Métro, tram, or bus lines, and have taxi stands outside. For train information and reservations, call &02/528-28-28 or visit www.sncb.be. Warning: Attracted by rich pickings from international travelers, bag snatchers roam the environs of Gare du Midi, and pickpockets work the interior. Do not travel to or depart from the station on foot if you can avoid doing so; take a taxi or use public transportation. Inside, keep a close eye on your possessions.

6 BRUSSELS

Bruxelles-Nord train station; it costs 2€ for a ticket purchased pre-boarding and 3€ for a ticket purchased onboard the bus. Taxis that display an orange sticker depicting a white airplane offer reduced fares from the airport to the center city. Others charge about 35€, and some offer reduced rates for a reserved return journey (ask your driver for details). Go to the taxi stand and wait your turn. Be sure to use only licensed cabs.

BY BUS Eurolines (& 02/274-13-50; www.eurolines.com) buses from London, Paris, Amsterdam, and other cities arrive at the bus station below Bruxelles-Nord train station.

BY CAR Major expressways to Brussels are E19 from Amsterdam and Paris, and E40 from Bruges and Cologne. If possible, avoid driving the “hell on wheels” R0 Brussels ring road. And once you’re settled at a hotel, do yourself a favor: Leave the car at a parking garage.

Visitor Information The city tourist organization, Brussels International Tourism & Congress (&02/ 513-89-40; fax 02/513-83-20; www.brusselsinternational.be), has several offices around the city. Good information is available from these offices, including a comprehensive visitors’ booklet, Brussels Guide & Map, and they can make last-minute reservations for city hotels. For both administration and walk-in service, head to rue Royale 2, 1000 Bruxelles (tram: 92 or 94), at place Royale (daily 10am–6pm). The most centrally located office is in the Hôtel de Ville, Grand-Place (Métro: Gare Centrale), on the ground floor of the Town Hall (Jan–Mar Mon–Sat 9am–6pm; Apr–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Nov–Dec Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 10am–2pm). There are tourist information desks in the Arrivals hall at Brussels Airport (daily 8am–9pm) and in the main hall at Gare du Midi rail station (May–Oct Sat–Thurs 8am–8pm, Fri 8am–9pm; Nov–Apr Mon–Thurs 8am–5pm, Fri 8am–8pm, Sat 9am–6pm, Sun and holidays 9am–2pm). The office at rue Wiertz 43 (Bus: 22 or 54) is for visitors to the European Parliament (Mon 1–5pm, Tues–Thurs 9am–5pm, Fri 9am–noon). All offices are closed on January 1 and December 25. For English-speaking visitors, a most useful publication is the weekly what’s-on guide Brussels Unlimited, containing information on cultural events, shopping, and more. Its sister publication, the monthly magazine The Bulletin, covers local news and current affairs. 83

Damage Assessment

Neighborhoods in Brief

As Brussels’s architectural heritage has taken a hit—by unscrupulous property developers, venal local officials, and the steamroller of Euroconstruction—

BRUSSELS

the phenomenon has been dubbed “Bruxellisation”: the destruction of beautiful old buildings and their replacement by dreary office towers.

City Layout Brussels is divided into 19 communes (districts)—“Brussels” being both the name of the central commune and of the city as a whole (which comprises Belgium’s Brussels Capital Region). The center city, once ringed by fortified ramparts, is now encircled by broad boulevards known collectively as the Petite Ceinture. Most of the city’s premier sightseeing sights are in this zone. Around 14% of the zone’s total area of 160 sq. km (63 sq. miles) is occupied by parks, woods, and forest, making this one of Europe’s greenest urban centers. Brussels sits smack-dab on Europe’s often edgy interface between its Latin south and Germanic north. You’ll hear both French and Dutch (along with a Babel of other tongues) spoken in its streets. The city is bilingual: Bruxelles in French and Brussel in Dutch, and street names and places are in both languages. Grand-Place is Grote Markt in Dutch; Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie is Koninklijke Munttheater. Note: For convenience and to save space, I use only the French names in this chapter. STREET MAPS Go to Brussels International Tourism and pick up its Brussels Guide & Map, which has a fairly detailed street map of the inner city marked with principal tourist attractions. If you need a comprehensive street map, purchase the Géocart Bruxelles et Périphérie at most news vendors and bookstores.

Neighborhoods in Brief Brussels is flat in its center and western reaches, where the now-vanished Senne River once flowed. To the east, a range of low hills rises to the upper city, which is crowned by the Royal Palace and has some of the city’s most affluent residential and prestigious business and shopping districts. The Grand-Place stands at the heart of Brussels and is both a starting point and reference point for most visitors. The Lower TownThe Bas de la Ville, the core area of the Old Center, has at its heart the Grand-Place and its environs. Two of the most traveled lanes nearby are restaurant-lined rue des Bouchers and Petite rue des Bouchers, part of an area known as the Ilot Sacré (Sacred Isle). A block from the Grand-Place is the classical colonnaded Bourse (Stock Exchange). A few blocks north, on place de la Monnaie, is the Monnaie opera house and ballet theater, named after the coin mint that once stood here. Brussels’s busiest shopping street, pedestrianized rue Neuve, starts from place de la Monnaie and runs north for several blocks.

Just north of the center lies Gare du Nord and nearby place Rogier. Central Brussels also includes the Marché-aux-Poissons (Fish Market) district. The Upper TownThe Haut de la Ville lies east of and uphill from the Grand-Place, along rue Royale and rue de la Régence and abutting the unpretentious, workingclass Marolles district. Lying between the Palais de Justice and Gare du Midi, the Marolles has cozy cafes, drinking-man’s bars, and inexpensive restaurants; its denizens even speak their own dialect. The Upper Town is spread along an escarpment east of the center, where you find the

European DistrictEast of the city center lies a part of Brussels whose denizens are regarded by many Bruxellois with the same suspicion they might apply to just-landed extraterrestrials. I refer, of course, to the European Union district around place Schuman, where the European Commission, Parliament, and Council of Ministers

Getting Around

Avenue LouiseBeyond the city center, things start to get hazier. From place Louise, Brussels’s most fashionable thoroughfare, Avenue Louise, runs south all the way to a large wooded park called the Bois de la Cambre. On either side of Avenue Louise are the classy districts of Ixelles and Uccle; they’re both good areas for casual, inexpensive restaurants, bars, cafes, and shopping, and both border the wide green spaces of the Bois de la Cambre and the Forêt de Soignes.

buildings jostle for space in a warren of offices populated by civil servants, journalists, and lobbyists (the area also is home to a wealth of restaurants and cafes that cater to Euro-appetites). A quaint old neighborhood was made to disappear to make way for these noble edifices. North of Ixelles, the modern European Union district surrounds place Schuman. The Cinquantenaire, a park criss-crossed with tree-lined avenues, extends from just east of the European District to the Porte de Tervuren and is bisected east to west by avenue John F. Kennedy. At the park’s eastern end are the monumental Palais du Cinquantenaire and the Arc du Cinquantenaire.

BRUSSELS

second great square, place du GrandSablon, as well as the Royal Museums of Fine Arts and the Royal Palace. If you head southwest and cross the broad boulevard de Waterloo, where you find the most exclusive designer stores, you come to place Louise.

BruparckIn the north of the city (and something of a leap of the imagination) is the Bruparck. Inside this recreation complex, you’ll find the Mini-Europe theme park; the 26-screen Kinepolis multiplex movie theater; a made-to-order village with stores, cafes, and restaurants; and the Océade water recreation center. Beside it is the Atomium, Brussels Planetarium, Roi Baudoin Soccer Stadium, and the Parc des Expositions congress center.

GETTING AROUND Brussels’s center city is small enough that walking is a viable option. There’s no better way to explore the historical core, especially around Grand-Place. You’ll likely also enjoy strolling uptown around place du Grand Sablon. Yet city traffic can be both heavy and frantic, creating a tiring experience for strollers. The best solution, if you have several days, is to divide your time into walking tours. Otherwise, a combination of walking and using the excellent public transportation is best. In any case, beyond the center city, using public transportation is a necessity. Be careful when crossing roads at the black-and-white pedestrian crossings with no signals. Astonishingly, pedestrians at these crossings haven’t always had legal priority over cars! Watch out for cars turning (legally) right or left at traffic lights, even when the green “walking man” indicates you are allowed to cross.

By Public Transportation Maps of the city’s excellent, fully integrated transit network—Métro (subway), tram (streetcar), and bus—are available free from the city tourist office, from offices of the STIB public transportation company at av. de la Toison d’Or 15 (&070/23-20-00; www.stib.be; Métro: Louise), and from the Porte de Namur, Rogier, and Gare du Midi Métro stations. In addition, transit maps are posted at all Métro stations and on many bus and tram shelters. The full network operates from 6am to midnight, after 85

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which a limited night-bus network takes over. If possible, avoid the crush at morning and evening rush hours. Watch out for pickpockets, especially at busy times, and avoid walking alone in deserted access tunnels, particularly after dark—the risk of being mugged is small but not entirely absent. FARE INFORMATION & DISCOUNT PASSES Tickets for a one-ride JUMP ticket (JUMP is the name for a Brussels transit ticket) are 2€ when purchased onboard and 1.70€ when purchased before boarding. It costs 7.30€ for a five-ride JUMP ticket, 12€ for a 10-ride JUMP ticket, 4.50€ for a 1-day JUMP ticket, and 9.50€ for a 3-day ticket. A round-trip ticket valid for 24 hours costs 3.30€. The 5-ride, 10-ride, and 1-day tickets cannot be purchased onboard trams or buses of the STIB city transit authority, rather only from sales points and ticket machines; they can, however, be purchased onboard buses of the regional transit companies De Lijn and TEC that have stops inside the city limits. The 3-day ticket can be used only with STIB and must be purchased before boarding. Finally, whatever ticket you want, if you plan to use it on Métro trains, you must purchase it before boarding. Children 6 to 11 ride free on the STIB transit network; they need to get a free pass called an Abonnement J. A maximum of four children 5 and under can ride free per paying adult. STIB has introduced an electronic stored-value card, the MOBIB, available from KIOSK and BOOTIK sales points at some train and Métro stations. It is more complicated to purchase and use this card compared with the ordinary tickets detailed above, and short-stay visitors may not find it to be worth the extra hassle. Still, there’s a savings of around 10% off the price of ordinary tickets for ticket classes that have a MOBIB option. VALIDATION You validate your card by inserting it into the orange electronic machines inside buses and trams and at the access to Métro platforms. Though the card must be revalidated each time you enter a new vehicle, you’re allowed multiple transfers within a 1-hour period of the initial validation, so you can hop on and off Métros, trams, and buses during that time and only one journey will be canceled by the electronic scanner. If more than one person is traveling on one card, the card must be validated each time for each traveler. BY TRAM & BUS An extensive network of tram lines provides the ideal way to get around the city. Both trams and urban buses are painted in gray-and-brown colors. Their stops are marked with red-and-white signs and often have a shelter. You stop a tram or bus by extending your arm as it approaches so the driver can see it; if you don’t signal, the bus or tram might not stop. Two bus companies provide service to points outside the city (and stop at some points within it): TEC (&010/23-53-53; www.infotec.be), which provides yellow buses covering French-speaking Wallonia, and De Lijn (&070/22-02-00; www.delijn.be), which has white buses covering Dutch-speaking Flanders.

Ride the Rails Though not as fast as the Métro, trams are generally faster than buses and are a great way to get around, not least because you get to view the cityscape

while you ride. Line nos. 92 and 94 pass by key sights along rue Royale and rue de la Régence as far as avenue Louise.

By Taxi

Fast Facts: Brussels

Taxi fares start at 2.40€ daily from 6am to 10pm and at 4.40€ between 10pm and 6am, increasing by 1.35€ per kilometer inside the city (tariff 1) and 2.70€ per kilometer outside (tariff 2)—make sure the meter is set to the correct tariff. Tip and taxes are included on the meter price, and you need not add an extra tip unless there has been extra service, such as help with heavy luggage (though drivers won’t refuse tips). All taxis are metered. They cannot be hailed on the street, but there are taxi stands on many principal streets, particularly in the center city, and at rail stations. To request a cab by phone, call Taxis Bleus (&02/268-00-00; www.taxisbleus.be) or Taxis Verts (&02/349-49-49; www.taxisverts.be).

6 BRUSSELS

BY METRO The Métro is quick and efficient, and covers many important centercity locations, as well as the suburbs, the Bruparck recreation zone, and the Heysel congress center. Stations are identified by signs with a white m on a blue background. A trip underground takes you into an art center: Métro stations are decorated with specially commissioned paintings, installations, and other artworks by contemporary Belgian artists.

By Car Driving in Brussels is akin to life during the Stone Age: nasty and brutish—though it’s rarely short. Normally polite citizens of Brussels turn into red-eyed demons once they get behind the steering wheel. Driving is fast, except at rush hour, and always aggressive. At rush hour (which actually lasts about an hour to either side of 9am and 5pm), it is almost impossible to move on main roads inside the city and on the R0 outer ring road (beltway). Sunday and early morning are better, and evening is not too bad. Park your car either at your hotel or in one of the many public parking garages— your hotel can furnish the address of the nearest one—and do not set foot in it again until you’re ready to leave the city. Good public transportation and an occasional taxi ride will get you anywhere you want inexpensively and hassle-free. If you must drive, watch out for the notorious priorité de droite (priority from the right) traffic system (see “Driven Crazy,” in chapter 5). RENTALS See “Getting Around,” in chapter 5.

BRUSSELS Airport See “Orientation,” earlier in this chapter. Area Code Brussels’s area code is 02; always use this when calling a number in Brussels, even when you are calling from Brussels itself. When calling from outside the Netherlands, the area code for Brussels is 2.

Business Hours See “Fast Facts: Belgium,” in

chapter 21. Friday is late shopping evening in Brussels, when some stores stay open to 9pm.

Doctors & Dentists For doctors, call Médi Garde (& 02/47918-18) or SOS Médecins (& 02/513-02-02) and ask for an English-speaking doctor. For emergency dental care, call & 02/426-10-26.

Embassies & Consulates See “Fast Facts: Belgium,” in chapter 21.

Emergencies For police assistance, call & 101. For an ambulance or the fire department, call & 100. For routine police matters, go to Brussels Central Police Station, rue du Marché au Charbon 30 (& 02/279-79-79; Métro: Bourse), just off the 87

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Grand-Place. Some Brussels police officers have a poorly developed sense of public service, and a surly and unconcerned attitude to visitors’ problems is not uncommon, even at this office where tourists in difficulty often end up. Many officers do, however, speak at least some English.

Hospital Cliniques Universitaires St-Luc, av. Hippocrate 10 (& 02/76411-11; www.saintluc.be; Métro: Alma), has an emergency department.

Mail Most post offices— the national mail company is known as bpost (& 02/ 21-23-45; www.depost laposte.be)—are open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm. The office at Centre Monnaie, bd. Anspach 1

(Métro: De Brouckère), is open Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 6pm and Saturday from 10am to 4pm. The office at Gare du Midi, av. Fonsny 1E/F (Métro: Gare du Midi), is open Monday to Friday from 8am to 7:30pm and Saturday from 10:30am to 4:30pm. See “Fast Facts: Belgium,” in chapter 21.

Newspapers & Magazines English-language newspapers and magazines are available from Waterstone’s, bd. Adolphe Max 71 (& 02/219-27-08; www. waterstones.com; Métro: Rogier). Newsstands at Brussels Airport and the Bruxelles-Central, BruxellesMidi, and Bruxelles-Nord train stations stock many international publications.

Toilets Should you have a toilet emergency in Brussels, a very good place to find relief is the Métropole hotel (p. 89). See “Fast Facts: Belgium,” in chapter 21 for more info on restrooms.

Safety Brussels is generally safe, but there is a growing trend of pickpocketing, theft from and of cars, and muggings in places such as Métro station foot tunnels and quiet streets just off the center of town. There’s no need to overestimate the risk, but take sensible precautions, particularly in obvious circumstances such as on crowded Métro trains and when withdrawing cash from an ATM at night. See “Crime & Safety,” in chapter 3.

WHERE TO STAY The most popular Brussels districts in which to stay are the center of town, broadly defined as the extended zone around the Grand-Place; in the upper town district around place Stéphanie and boulevard de Waterloo; and along avenue Louise. The most noticeable lodgings in these areas are large, glittering three- and four-star establishments, yet there are numbers of decent medium-priced and even budget hotels in the streets around the Grand-Place and in the Ixelles district to the south of the upmarket axis of avenue Louise. Other mixed-category concentrations of hotels can be found on and around the Marché aux Poissons (Fish Market), and around the Bruxelles-Nord and Bruxelles-Midi train stations (in the case of Bruxelles-Nord, keep to the south side of the station, not to the scuzzy north side). The European District presents something of a special case: Its hotels are convenient for visiting Eurocrats, politicians, lobbyists, and media people, but that won’t necessarily make them a good choice for tourists. Hotels in the upper price range, including deluxe hotels of just about every international chain that wants to be represented in the “capital of Europe,” have a wealth of facilities and efficient, though invariably impersonal, service. At every level, hotels fill up during the week and empty out on weekends and during July and August. In off-peak periods, rates can drop as much as 50% from those quoted below; be sure to ask for lower rates and confirm that you’re quoted the correct rates, which include 6% value-added tax (TVA) and a 16% service charge. 88

Around the Grand-Place VERY EXPENSIVE

Where to Stay

Amigo In Brussels slang, an amigo is a prison, and indeed a prison once stood here, in a highly convenient location (both then and now) across the street from the Town Hall. But any resemblance to the former accommodations is nominal. The Amigo is among the city’s finest hotels. Its Spanish Renaissance architecture, stately corridors, and flagstone lobby are right at home in this ancient neighborhood. Some of the previous incarnation’s antiques, sculptures, wall tapestries, and wood accents have been retained, to good effect. The rooms are quite spacious and traditionally elegant, but with touches of modern Flemish design to brighten things up. Motifs from the comic strip series The Adventures of Tintin add an element of whimsy. Ask for a room with a view of the Town Hall’s fantastic Gothic spire.

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Brussels International Tourism (see “Visitor Information,” earlier in this chapter) makes reservations for the same day if you go to their offices in person and pay a small fee (which is deducted by the hotel from its room rate).

Rue de l’Amigo 1–3 (off Grand-Place), 1000 Bruxelles. & 02/547-47-47. Fax 02/513-52-77. www. hotelamigo.com. 173 units. 300€–600€ double; from 900€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking 30€. Métro: Bourse. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; babysitting; concierge; executive rooms; health club; room service. Inroom: A/C, TV, fax, hair dryer, Internet (20€/24 hr.), minibar.

EXPENSIVE Le Dixseptième This graceful, 17th-century house that was once the official residence of the Spanish ambassador stands close to the Grand-Place in a neighborhood of restored dwellings. Guest rooms, reached via a carved-wood stairway, have wood paneling and marble chimneys, and are as big as suites in many hotels; some have balconies. All are in 18th-century style and are named after Belgian painters from Bruegel to Magritte. Two beautiful lounges are decorated with carved-wood medallions and 18th-century paintings. Rue de la Madeleine 25 (off place de l’Albertine), 1000 Bruxelles. &02/517-17-17. Fax 02/502-64-24. www.ledixseptieme.be. 24 units. 200€–270€ double; 350€–430€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Métro: Gare Centrale. Amenities: Bar. Inroom: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet (15€/24 hr.), minibar.

Even if you’re not staying here, the hotel is worth a visit on its own account. An ornate, marble-and-gilt interior distinguishes this late-19th-century hotel several blocks from the Grand-Place, intimating Victorian elegance without rejecting the convenience of modern amenities. Soaring ceilings, potted palms, and lavishly decorated public rooms add to the Belle Epoque allure. Spacious guest rooms have classic furnishings and some modern luxuries, including heated towel racks, hair dryers, and trouser presses. An elegant French restaurant, L’Alban Chambon, caters to the sophisticated diner, and the sumptuous Belle Epoque Le 19ième Bar and the sidewalk Cafe Métropole (p.98) to the sophisticated cafe hound.

Métropole

Place de Brouckère 31 (close to Centre Monnaie), 1000 Bruxelles. &02/217-23-00. Fax 02/218-02-20. www.metropolehotel.com. 305 units. 250€–450€ double; from 650€ suite. Rates include buffet or continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking 20€. Métro: De Brouckère. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; cafe; concierge; health club & spa; room service. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Modern, yet in harmony with its neighborhood a few blocks from the Grand-Place, this highly regarded hotel incorporates part of the medieval city wall. The large rooms are decorated in a variety of styles, including

Radisson Blu Royal

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Where to Stay

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Where to Stay

Scandinavian, Asian, and Italian, and the Royal Club rooms are plushly upholstered. There’s a huge atrium with cafe terraces and fountains; some rooms look out on this atrium rather than the outside world. The Sea Grill restaurant wins deserved plaudits for its seafood, and the Bar Dessiné (which has a roster of 200 Scotch malt whiskeys) has a Belgian comic strip theme. The Radisson has a local Eco-Dynamic label, for its implementation of sustainable operations. Rue du Fossé aux Loups 47 (close to Galeries Royales St-Hubert), 1000 Bruxelles. &800/333-3333 in the U.S. and Canada, or 02/219-28-28. Fax 02/219-62-62. www.radissonblu.com. 281 units. 250€–450€ double; from 500€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking 30€. Métro: Gare Centrale. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; lounge; babysitting; concierge; health club & spa; room service. Inroom: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

MODERATE Floris Arlequin Grand Place You can’t get closer to the heart of the city than this property, with the restaurant-lined rue des Bouchers right outside the hotel’s back entrance. Then there’s the fine view, from some rooms, of the Town Hall spire on the neighboring Grand-Place (which is spectacular when lit at night), and of the Old City’s rooftops and narrow medieval streets from the top-floor breakfast room. The guest rooms themselves are not quite so spectacular, but all have modern, comfortable furnishings, and most have plenty of natural light. The more expensive rooms have air-conditioning. Rue de la Fourche 17–19 (off rue des Bouchers), 1000 Bruxelles. &02/514-16-15. Fax 02/514-22-02. www.florishotels.com. 92 units. 105€–210€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. No parking. Métro: Bourse. Amenities: Bar, exercise room, room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (15€/24 hr.).

INEXPENSIVE A tiny place with two rooms on each floor and no elevator, this family-owned hotel is diagonally across a narrow street from the Manneken-Pis. It can be hard to spot, as you enter through the side door of a trinket store selling hundreds of Manneken-Pis replicas. You should feel quite at ease in rooms that are plainly furnished but bright and clean, with old-style leaded windows and small bathrooms with marble counters and tiled walls. Breakfast is served in your room. It’s advisable to reserve well ahead.

La Vieille Lanterne

Rue des Grands Carmes 29 (facing Manneken-Pis), 1000 Bruxelles. &02/512-74-94. Fax 02/512-13-97. www.lavieillelanterne.be. 6 units. 75€–95€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Métro: Bourse. Inroom: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Mozart Go up a flight from the busy, cheap-eats street level, and guess which famous composer’s music wafts through the lobby? Salmon-colored walls, plants, and old paintings create a warm, intimate ambience that’s carried into the rooms. Furnishings are in Louis XV style, and exposed beams lend each unit a rustic originality. Several are duplexes with a sitting room underneath the loft bedroom. Top-floor rooms have a great view. Rue du Marché aux Fromages 23 (close to Grand-Place), 1000 Bruxelles. & 02/502-66-61. Fax 02/502-77-58. www.hotel-mozart.be. 47 units. 100€–150€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. No parking. Métro: Gare Centrale. Amenities: Lounge. Inroom: TV, hair dryer.

Around the Fish Market MODERATE The name of this gem of a hotel, overlooking the Fish Market, couldn’t be more accurate, thanks to the untiring efforts of the husband-and-wife

Welcome 92

Passport to Brussels respectively, it allows free use of public transportation; free and discounted admission to about 30 of the city’s museums and attractions; and discounts at some restaurants and other venues, and on some guided tours.

Where to Stay

proprietors, Michel and Sophie Smeesters. Think of it as a country auberge (inn) right in the heart of town. Rooms are furnished and styled on individual, unrelated international and travel themes, such as Provence, Tibet, Egypt, Africa, Jules Verne, and Laura Ashley, all to a high standard. Reserve as far ahead of time as possible, for the Welcome’s regular guests are fiercely loyal. You’ll find several very good seafood-dining options on the Marché aux Poissons.

BRUSSELS

One of the best discounts is the Brussels Card (www.brusselscard.be), available from the Brussels International tourist office on the Grand-Place, hotels, museums, and offices of the STIB city transit authority. Valid for 1, 2, or 3 days, for 24€, 34€, and 40€,

Quai au Bois-à-Brûler 23 (at the Marché aux Poissons), 1000 Bruxelles. &02/219-95-46. Fax 02/21718-87. www.hotelwelcome.com. 17 units. 100€–155€ double; 170€–200€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 13€. Métro: Ste-Catherine. Amenities: Lounge; room service. Inroom: A/C (some rooms), TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

INEXPENSIVE George V This agreeable little hotel is tucked away in a corner of the center city that looks more down at the heels than it really is; it has been reborn as a trendy shopping and eating area. The George, in a renovated town house from 1859 within easy walking distance of the Grand-Place, has rooms that are plain but clean and have new furnishings. Rue ’t Kint 23 (off place du Jardin aux Fleurs), 1000 Bruxelles. &02/513-50-93. Fax 02/513-44-93. www.hotelgeorge5.be. 16 units. 60€–90€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, V. Limited street parking. Métro: Bourse. Amenities: Bar. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (9€/stay).

Around Avenue Louise EXPENSIVE Thon Hotel Bristol Stephanie Every feature of this sleek hotel on one of the city’s toniest shopping streets, from its lobby fittings to furnishings in the kitchenette suites, is streamlined, functional, and representative of the best in Nordic design. Some rooms have four-poster beds and anti-allergy hardwood floors; all are furnished to a high level of modern style and comfort. The rooms are quite large, but if you need more space, it’s worth paying a bit more to upgrade to a far larger executive room. Try to get a room in the main building; the security in the back building is good, but nothing beats a 24-hour doorman. Restaurant Le Chalet d’Odin has a refined Continental menu, and the breakfast room serves a pretty reasonable American-style buffet breakfast. Av. Louise 91–93, 1050 Bruxelles. &02/543-33-11. Fax 02/538-03-07. www.thonhotels.be. 142 units. 240€–320€ double; from 500€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 25€. Métro: Louise. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; bar; babysitting; concierge; executive rooms; exercise room & sauna; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (18€/24 hr.).

Thon Hotel Stanhope An old convent and some neighboring properties in the upmarket shopping district around avenue Louise and Porte de Namur have been 93

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Where to Stay

transformed into this graceful hotel. The ambience of the Stanhope combines that of a country retreat with a prime metropolitan location. All guest rooms are individually decorated in variations of Old English style. Despite the hotel’s English image, the in-house restaurant Brighton, under the guidance of master-chef Gérard Souillet, majors in French cuisine. Rue du Commerce 9 (off rue du Trône), 1000 Bruxelles. & 02/506-91-11. Fax 02/512-17-08. www. thonhotels.be. 108 units. 160€–360€ double; from 500€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 25€. Métro: Trône. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; executive rooms; health club & spa; room service. Inroom: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (10€/24 hr.).

MODERATE Agenda Louise This fine, small, middle-of-the-road hotel affords a good balance of advantages both for leisure visitors who are looking for modern comforts without spending too much to get them, and for business visitors who don’t have sheaves of locked-and-loaded plastic to get by on. The guest rooms have been spiffily upgraded with new beds and integrated color schemes and deco, to good effect. They have enough room to swing a cat, so long as it’s not an overly big one, and some complete kitchens are available. The bathrooms have tiled walls and floors, and they just about break out of the shoehorned-in syndrome that afflicts many moderately priced city hotels. Ask for a room that overlooks the inner courtyard for the best view. Rue de Florence 6 (off av. Louise), 1000 Bruxelles. &02/539-00-31. Fax 02/539-00-63. www.hotelagenda.com. 37 units. 160€–180€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 17€. Métro: Louise. Amenities: Lounge. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Being on a quiet-ish side street right off chic avenue Louise, this fine refurbished hotel has location in spades, and there’s a ton of great restaurants in the neighborhood. You’ll find typically English countryhouse decor here, down to the fireplace in the lobby. The spacious, attractively furnished guest rooms all have private bathrooms and writing desks; some have kitchenettes. An English-style buffet breakfast is served in a pleasant and intimate breakfast room—so if you like your ham ’n’ eggs done with a touch of class, this gem of a hotel could be the place for you.

Izán Avenue Louise Boutique Hotel

Rue Blanche 4 (off av. Louise), 1000 Bruxelles. &02/535-95-00. Fax 02/535-96-00. www.hotelizan avenuelouise.com. 80 units. 130€–260€ double; 360€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. Métro: Louise. Amenities: Bar; babysitting. Inroom: TV, Wi-Fi (20€/24 hr.).

Louise New owners have taken this property by the scruff of its neck and given it new status, taste, and levels of comfort. They started out with some advantages—a graceful, well-maintained 19th-century town house in a hot part of town. The hotel has some unusually spacious rooms and some so small you’ll need to shoehorn yourself and your luggage into them. If you need one of the larger rooms, you’ll want to check it out first, if possible, or confirm how large it is when you reserve. Rue Veydt 40 (off chaussée de Charleroi), 1050 Bruxelles. &02/537-40-33. Fax 02/534-40-37. www. louisehotel.com. 49 units. 140€–180€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Métro: Louise. Amenities: Bar. Inroom: A/C (in some), TV, hair dryer, minibar (in some), Wi-Fi (free).

Around Bruxelles-Nord Station INEXPENSIVE A modern hotel next to the bronze-domed 19th-century Eglise Royale Ste-Marie and close to an enclave of the most authentic Turkish restaurants in town (which should more than compensate for its lack of an in-house restaurant), Albert

Albert

This small hostelry is like a private residence, presided over by hospitable owners who keep the place up to modern standards with regular small but thoughtful touches. A grandfather clock in the reception area and polished wood along the restaurant walls give it a warm, homey atmosphere. Rooms vary in size, but all are comfortable and simply yet tastefully done in a modern style with twin beds. None of them measure up to the elegant public spaces, but they are adequately furnished, with comfortable beds and soft carpeting. It’s in a slightly awkward place to reach, between public transportation stops, however.

Sabina

Where to Dine

Rue Royale-Ste-Marie 27–29 (off place de la Reine), 1030 Bruxelles. &02/217-93-91. Fax 02/219-20-17. www.hotelalbert.be. 19 units. 70€–75€ double; 75€–90€ studio apartment. Rates include continental breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. Tram: 25 to Lefrancq; 92 to Robiano; or 94 to Sainte-Marie. Amenities: Bar. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

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has clean, bright, rooms with a touch of design flair and tiled bathrooms. Next door, guests of the Résidence Albert have access to large studio apartments with refrigerators. Although the hotel is on the outer edge of the city center, trams from a nearby stop take you straight to the Royal Palace, the Royal Museums of Fine Arts, and the Sablon antiques district.

Rue du Nord 78 (at place des Barricades), 1000 Bruxelles. &02/218-26-37. Fax 02/219-32-39. www. hotelsabina.eu. 24 units. 57€–92€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Métro: Madou. Inroom: TV, hair dryer.

WHERE TO DINE Food is a passion in Brussels, which boasts more Michelin-star restaurants per head than Paris. People here regard dining as a fine art and their favorite chef as a grand master. It’s just about impossible to eat badly, no matter what your price range. The city has no fewer than 1,500 restaurants. Even if you’re on a tight budget, you should try to set aside the money for at least one big splurge in a fine restaurant—nourishment for both the soul and the stomach. The Brussels restaurant scene covers the entire city, but there are one or two culinary pockets you should know about. It has been said that you haven’t truly visited this city unless you’ve dined at least once along rue des Bouchers or its offshoot, Petite rue des Bouchers, both of which are near the Grand-Place. Both streets are lined with an extraordinary array of ethnic eateries, most with a proudly proclaimed specialty, and all with modest prices. Reservations are not usually necessary in these colorful, and often crowded, restaurants; if you cannot be seated at one, you simply stroll on to the next one. Then there’s the cluster of fine restaurants at the Marché aux Poissons (Fish Market), a short walk from the Grand-Place around place Ste-Catherine. This is where fishermen once unloaded their daily catches from a now-covered canal. Seafood, as you’d expect, is the specialty. A well-spent afternoon’s occupation is to stroll through the area to examine the bills of fare exhibited in windows and make your reservation for the evening meal. Don’t fret if the service is slow: People take their time dining out here.

Around the Grand-Place VERY EXPENSIVE Comme Chez Soi CLASSIC FRENCH A visit to the revered, Art Nouveau “Just Like Home,” which sports two Michelin stars, will surely be the culinary 95

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QUICK bites In business since 1873, the snack bar Au Suisse, bd. Anspach 73–75 (&02/51295-89; www.ausuisse.be; Métro: Bourse), serves great sandwiches with fresh ingredients and homemade sauces. This is the place to try a rawherring sandwich (the seafood in general is ace), and you can sip an iced frappé on the sidewalk terrace at lunchtime. Cap Sablon, rue Lebeau 75 (&02/512-01-70; Bus: 34, 48, 95, or 96), just off place du Grand Sablon, is great for salads. For a chic yet still tasty breakfast, lunch, or snack, head for the convivial Roi des Belges , rue Jules Van Praet 35–37 (&02/503-43-00; Métro: Bourse), on the corner of trendy place St-Géry. The soup of the day or a decent salad won’t set you back more than a few euros, or you can just nurse a coffee while reading the newspaper or chatting with your neighboring diners. Another seductive invitation is the aroma of fresh Brussels waffles, sold from street stands around the city. Generally thicker than American waffles, they cost about 3€ and are smothered in sugar icing. The stands are all pretty decent and there’s not much reason to

try one over another. Should you want to sample an impressive range of toppings and accompaniments, head to the specialist Aux Gaufres de Bruxelles, rue du Marché aux Herbes 113 (&02/51401-71; www.belgiumwaffle.com; Métro: Gare Centrale). Then there are all the little Greek, Turkish, Arab, and Israeli places around the Grand-Place, where you can fill up on moussaka, kebabs, salad, and falafel for as little as 5€. And don’t forget those frites (fries). Belgians usually eat this salty snack with mayonnaise rather than ketchup. Prices run from around 2.50€ to 4€ for a cornet (cone); toppings, such as peanut, tartare, samurai (hot!), or curry, cost extra. Brussels is dotted with dozens of fast-food stands serving frites in paper cones. One of the best, Maison Antoine , place Jourdan 1 (& 02/ 230-54-56; www.maisonantoine.be; Métro: Schuman), in the European District, has existed since the 1940s and counts both homegrown and foreign celebrities among its devotees. You’ll have to join the line at peak times, but the wait for its fries, made from freshpeeled potatoes, should be worthwhile.

highlight of your trip—though the food is a long way from being what most people actually eat at home. Under the influence of chef Lionel Rigolet, the dishes have been looking lighter in recent times—even the Burgundian Bruxellois are having to conform to a faster, slimmer world. Ask for a table in the kitchen, where you can watch the masters at work. Book for dinner as far ahead as possible; getting a table at short notice is more likely at lunchtime. Place Rouppe 23 (at av. de Stalingrad). & 02/512-29-21. www.commechezsoi.be. Reservations required. Main courses 43€–173€; fixed-price menus 84€–191€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–1:30pm and 7–9:30pm. Métro: Anneessens.

BELGIAN/FRENCH This grande dame of Brussels’s internationally recognized restaurants overlooks the Grand-Place from the former guild house of the Butchers Guild—where Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels cooked up The Communist Manifesto during a 3-year sojourn in Brussels. The service, though a tad stuffy, is as elegant as the polished walnut walls, bronze wall sconces, and green velvet. The menu has haute cuisine Belgian and French classics, such as waterzooï de

La Maison du Cygne

Grand-Place 9 (entrance at rue Charles Buls 2). &02/511-82-44. www.lamaisonducygne.be. Reservations recommended. Main courses 36€–40€; fixed-price lunch 40€, dinner 65€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:15pm and 7pm–midnight; Sat 7pm–midnight. Métro: Gare Centrale.

Aux Armes de Bruxelles TRADITIONAL BELGIAN A Brussels institution

since it opened in 1921, this family-owned establishment offers gracious, rather formal service, combined with a casual, relaxed ambience. It’s an excellent place for your introduction to Belgian cooking, since it combines traditional cuisine with great quality and offers just about every regional specialty you can think of, including mussels in every conceivable style. To save valuable eating time at busy lunchtimes, do as many regulars do and just order un complet—within minutes a pan of steamed mussels accompanied by french fries and a beer will land on your table. Sample anything from an excellent beef stewed in beer to a delicious waterzooï (fish or chicken stew) to a steak with pepper-and-cream sauce, all at fair prices.

Where to Dine

EXPENSIVE

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homard (a souplike lobster stew), veal sautéed with fresh wild mushrooms, and tournedos (filet steak) with green peppercorns. There are fine chicken and fish dishes, and specialties such as huîtres au champagne (oysters in champagne) and goujonette de sole mousseline (sole mousse). Because of its location, the restaurant is usually crowded at lunchtime, but dinner reservations are likely to be available.

Rue des Bouchers 13 (off Grand-Place). &02/511-55-98. www.auxarmesdebruxelles.be. Main courses 15€–44€; lunch menu 23€; fixed-price menus 35€–50€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–11:15pm. Métro: Gare Centrale.

CONTEMPORARY BELGIAN Light and space are the signature design themes of a restaurant for which the description “brasserie” seems a mite too cramped, not to say convivial. Set in a Belle Epoque building that belonged to the plush 19th-century Hôtel de la Poste and later housed a branch of the French Crédit du Nord bank, Belga Queen fills its vast space with cool diners. You’ll tuck into food that runs from Namurois snail soup, through gray Ostend shrimp and tender Charolais beef sirloin, to roasted Mechelen cuckoo, and you’ll be served by a waitstaff fully apprised of the august nature of their calling. In addition to a restaurant, the Belga Queen contains an oyster bar, a beer bar, and a club and cigar lounge.

Belga Queen

Rue du Fossée aux Loups 32 (at rue Neuve). & 02/217-21-87. www.belgaqueen.be. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses 20€–45€; fixed-price lunch 16€, dinner 30€–45€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm and 7–11pm. Métro: De Brouckère.

Le Scheltema BELGIAN

This is one of those solid restaurants in the Ilot Sacré district that keeps going day in, day out, year after year, serving up much the same fare but never forgetting that quality counts. Good service and fine atmosphere complement the seafood specialties at this brasserie-style restaurant, which is similar to others in the district but always goes the extra mile in class and taste. Pâté, bisque d’homard (lobster soup), croquettes aux crevettes (prawn croquettes), mussels (in season), and a wide range of fish and meat options all grace the excellent menu.

Rue des Dominicains 7 (off rue des Bouchers). & 02/512-20-84. www.scheltema.be. Main courses 21€–41€; seafood platter 35€–58€; fixed-price menus 27€–39€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 6:30pm–midnight. Métro: Gare Centrale.

MODERATE FRENCH/BELGIAN In the elegant surroundings of the Galeries Royales St-Hubert, you’ll find this Parisian bistro-style restaurant. It often gets

De l’Ogenblik

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busy, but the ambience in the split-level, wood-and-brass-outfitted dining room, with a sand-strewn floor, is convivial, though a little too tightly packed when it’s full. Look for garlicky meat and seafood menu dishes, and expect to pay a smidgeon more for atmosphere than might be strictly justified by the results on your plate. If you like duck, try the magret du canard mulard aux deux poivres, gratin dauphinois (filet of duck with peppers and potatoes gratin). A good seafood choice is the ragoût de coquilles St-Jacques et gambas, sauce diable (scallop and prawn stew in a “devil”—spicy—sauce). Galerie des Princes 1 (in the Galeries Royales St-Hubert). & 02/511-61-51. www.ogenblik.be. Main courses 23€–28€; plat du jour (lunch only) 11€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–2:30pm and 7pm–midnight. Métro: Gare Centrale.

La Roue d’Or TRADITIONAL BELGIAN With dark wood, mirrors, a high frescoed ceiling, Magritte images on the walls, and marble-topped tables, this welcoming Art Nouveau brasserie has a loyal local following. An extensive menu, ranging from grilled meats to a good selection of cooked salmon and other seafood, and old Belgian favorites like stoemp (mashed potatoes and carrots with sausage, a steak, or other meat), caters to just about any appetite. The beer, wine, and spirits list is equally long. Rue des Chapeliers 26 (off Grand-Place). &02/514-25-54. Main courses 14€–25€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–12:30am. Métro: Gare Centrale.

Le Marmiton BELGIAN/FRENCH A welcoming environment, hearty servings,

and commitment to satisfying customers are hallmarks of this cozy, two-floor restaurant. On a menu that emphasizes fish, the seafood cocktail starter is a heap of shellfish and crustaceans substantial enough to be a main course, and the sole is excellent. Meat dishes are available, too. The menu is complemented by an excellent wine list selected by Portuguese/Belgian owner and chef Antonio Beja da Silva, whose love of his own cooking shows in his waistline and in the attention he devotes to his customers. Rue des Bouchers 43A (off Grand-Place). & 02/511-79-10. www.lemarmiton.be. Main courses 16€– 28€; fixed-price menus 16€–22€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm and 6–11:30pm; Sat–Sun noon–midnight. Métro: Gare Centrale.

INEXPENSIVE LIGHT FARE Many Brussels visitors never get beyond the pleasant heated-sidewalk section of this massive Victorian-style cafe. Inside, in the associated Le 19ième Bar, you find a casually elegant decor, highlighted by a marble fireplace, colorful wood puppets hanging from the high ceilings, and comfortable leather seating arranged in cozy groupings. The menu includes sandwiches, soups, quiches, and other light meals. The bar menu fills no fewer than six pages, including some rather exceptional specialties from the head barman.

Café Métropole

On Your Guard in the Ilot Sacré A few restaurants (not reviewed here) in this colorful restaurant district just off the Grand-Place take advantage of tourists. If you decide to dine at a restaurant not reviewed here—and you don’t want to get fleeced—be sure to

ask the price of everything before you order it. Most visitors leave the Ilot Sacré with no more serious complaint than an expanded waistline, but a little caution is in order.

Chez Léon SEAFOOD/BELGIAN

Rue des Bouchers 18 (off of Grand-Place). &02/511-14-15. www.chezleon.be. Main courses 11€–27€; menu Formule Léon 13€; mussel plates 11€–22€. AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–11:30pm. Métro: Gare Centrale.

Where to Dine

Think of it as the mussels from Brussels. This big, basic restaurant is the city’s most single-minded purveyor of that marine delicacy. Léon has been flexing its mussels since 1893 and now has clones all over Belgium, among them one at the Bruparck amusements complex. The mollusks in question are top quality, at low prices, in a variety of styles, such as moules marinières (mussels boiled in vegetable stock) and moules au vin blanc (mussels in white-wine sauce). If you don’t like mussels, the menu features plenty of other fishy delights—including eels in green sauce, cod, and bouillabaisse.

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Place de Brouckère 31 (in the Hôtel Métropole). &02/217-23-00. www.metropolehotel.com. Reservations not accepted. Plat du jour 12€; light meal 10€–15€. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–2am; Sun 3–11pm. Métro: De Brouckère.

Paradiso ITALIAN This great little Italian restaurant is close enough to the Grand-Place to be convenient, but just far enough away to not be immediately obvious to the crowds. As such, it is one of Brussels’s best-kept secrets. Owner/chef Santino Trovato has created a little gem, with pasta and pizza just like mamma used to make and a list of fine Italian wines as long as your arm. Rue Duquesnoy 34 (off place St-Jean). &02/512-52-32. www.resto-paradiso.be. Main courses 13€– 19€. No credit cards. Tues–Sat noon–3pm and 6:30pm–midnight. Métro: Gare Centrale.

Taverne du Passage TRADITIONAL BELGIAN Surrealist painter René Magritte (1898–1967) was a regular at this classic Art Deco brasserie in a glassroofed arcade. It’s easy to imagine him strolling through the door in his bowler hat, sitting at his favorite banquette, and ordering from one of the white-jacketed waiters. The menu hasn’t changed much since Magritte’s day: Belgian staples like shrimp croquettes, waterzooï, endive with ham, and roast beef carved tableside. The prices are a little steep, but it’s worth it for the atmosphere alone. Plus, the food’s great—a real Brussels treat. Galerie de la Reine 30 (in the Galeries Royales St-Hubert). &02/512-37-31. www.tavernedupassage. com. Main courses 16€–27€; plat du jour 15€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–midnight. Métro: Gare Centrale.

’t Kelderke TRADITIONAL BELGIAN Despite being on the square that is the focus of tourism in Brussels, this is far from being a tourist trap. As many Bruxellois as tourists throng the long wood tables in a 17th-century, brick-arched cellar, and all are welcomed with time-honored respect, even if that should be perceived as being a little rough and ready. Memorable traditional Belgian fare, with little in the way of frills, is served up from an open kitchen. This is a great place to try local specialties such as bloedpens (blood sausage) à la Bruxelloise, stoemp (mashed potato and vegetable) with boudin (sausage), carbonnades à la Flamande (Flemish beef stew), lapin à la gueuze (rabbit in Brussels beer), and big steaming pans piled high with Zeeland mussels. Grand-Place 15. &02/511-09-56. www.restaurant-het-kelderke.be. Main courses 11€–19€; plat du jour 11€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2am. Métro: Gare Centrale.

Around Avenue Louise EXPENSIVE MODERN FRENCH/SEAFOOD In the Ixelles district, where fine restaurants are as common as streetlights, this spot stands out, even

La Quincaillerie

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Where to Dine

though it may be a little too aware of its own modish good looks and a shade pricey. The setting is a traditional former hardware store from 1903 with a giant rail-station clock, wood paneling, and masses of drawers, designed by students of Art Nouveau master Victor Horta. It’s busy enough to get the waitstaff harassed and absentminded, yet they’re always friendly. Seafood dishes dominate the menu. Specialties include escalope du saumon rôti au gros sel (salmon in roasted rock salt) and canette laquée au miel et citron vert (baby duck with a crust of honey and lime). You don’t need to look much further than a crisp Sancerre as the ideal wine accompaniment to most dishes. Rue du Page 45 (at rue Américaine). &02/533-98-33. www.quincaillerie.be. Main courses 17€–46€; lunch menu 13€; fixed-price menus 25€–30€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–2:30pm and 7pm–midnight; Sun 7pm–midnight. Tram: 81 to Trinité.

Le Pain et le Vin MEDITERRANEAN The owners of this restaurant were once steeped in the Michelin-star milieu but have jettisoned the rigorous requirements of that system to concentrate on having some good, clean, tasty fun instead. “Bread and Wine” fits the bill perfectly—and the bill won’t be excessive either. The restaurant, in a converted house, looks out onto a garden. There’s a terrace for alfresco dining in good weather. Whether the dish is chicken, fish, meat, or vegetables, the preparation concentrates on bringing out the natural taste, rather than smothering it with over-rich sauces. For interesting variations on common dishes, try the chicken ravioli with basil and Parmesan, or the lobster and shrimp lasagna with ginger sauce. Vegetarian dishes are available on request, and vegetable side dishes form a big part of the menu offerings. Chaussée d’Alsemberg 812A. &02/332-37-74. www.painvin.be. Main courses 31€–39€; lunch menu 24€; fixed-price menus 52€–69€. AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2pm and 6–10pm; Sat 6–10pm. Tram: 51 to Rittweger.

MODERATE Au Vieux Bruxelles BELGIAN/SEAFOOD

This convivial, brasserie-style restaurant from 1882 specializes in mussels, which it serves in a wide variety of ways. In Belgium, the personality of the humble but tasty mussel is a staple of conversation as much as of diet, and people assess the quality of each year’s crop with the same critical eye that other countries reserve for fine wines. Au Vieux Bruxelles, a kind of temple to the Belgian obsession with mussels, serves the shellfish in 15 different ways, including raw (accompanied only by a light white-wine sauce), baked, fried, grilled, and broiled, and in traditional dishes like moules marinières (boiled in water with vegetables) and moules au vin (boiled in wine). Should you not wish to work on the mussels, there are great steaks like steak au poivre flambé (flamed pepper steak), escargots (snails), and crepes.

Rue St-Boniface 35 (close to Porte Namur). &02/503-31-11. www.auvieuxbruxelles.com. Reservations not accepted. Main courses 11€–21€; mussel plates 18€–20€. AE, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 6:30–11:30pm; Fri– Sat 6:30pm–midnight; Sun noon–3pm and 6:30–11:30pm. Métro: Porte de Namur.

La Mirabelle TRADITIONAL BELGIAN Due to its “democratic” prices, convivial atmosphere, and consistently good food, this brasserie-restaurant in Ixelles is popular both with students from the nearby Université Libre de Bruxelles and with Bruxellois in general. Plainly decorated, with wooden tables crowded together, it looks more like a bar than a restaurant and often has a boisterous pub-style atmosphere to match. The steak-frites (steak with french fries), a Belgian staple, is particularly good here. The garden terrace is a great setting for alfresco dining in summer. 100

Where to Dine

FRENCH If you’re a French-cuisine enthusiast who likes things done just so and you’re not too enamored of nouvelle cuisine, La Table de l’Abbaye is for you. The setting is a well-appointed town house near the tranquil grounds of the Abbaye (Abbey) de la Cambre. The food here is hard to beat, and its prices are not excessive, considering the quality of the fare and its presentation. Look for many French favorites, all best accompanied with a fine wine—from France, of course. Lobster flexes its claws in several interesting ways on the menu here: in pancakes with caviar butter, in a mixed salad, and with a pepper-cream sauce. Lamb marinated in Bourgogne wine is another specialty. In a romantically atmospheric touch, candlelight provides the main illumination for the classic decor, enlivened by sculptures and paintings.

La Table de l’Abbaye

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Chaussée de Boondael 455 (at av. Arnaud Fraiteur). &02/649-51-73. www.mirabelle.be. Main courses 13€–25€; plat du jour 9.20€. MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 6pm–1:30am. Bus: 71, 72, or 95 to Cimetière d’Ixelles.

Rue de Belle-Vue 62 (off av. Louise). &02/646-33-95. www.la-table-abbaye.be. Main courses 15€– 25€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 12:30–2:30pm and 6–10:30pm; Sat 6–10:30pm. Tram: 94 to Abbaye.

INEXPENSIVE La Grande Porte TRADITIONAL BELGIAN It’s hard to think of a Brussels eatery that is more traditionally Belgian than this archetypal place in the down-at-theheels Marolles district. A decor comprised of dark-wood furnishings, paper lanterns, marionettes hanging from the ceiling, old posters, and fashionably shabby walls, and background noise that calls to mind a canned French cabaret, combine to create a cozy, convivial dining space. The mostly regional main courses are served in bountiful portions. Sure to impart a warm glow of appreciation are hearty standards like the carbonnades à la flamande (beef braised in beer), waterzooï à la Gantoise (chicken stew), and stoemp (mashed potatoes and carrots) with sausage. But a touch of bistrolevel sophistication in starters such as the chicory with smoked salmon and the warm goat’s cheese salad lifts the menu out of the plain class. The late-night hours are an added plus. Rue Notre-Seigneur 9 (off rue Blaes). &02/512-89-98. Main courses 11€–14€. MC, V. Mon–Fri noon– 3pm and 6pm–2am; Sat 6pm–2am. Bus: 27 or 48 to Chapelle.

VEGETARIAN An exotic look here is consistent with the restaurant’s multicultural menus: Lots of greenery and flowers create a gardenlike feel, and crystal lamps, mirrors, and old paintings adorn the walls. Try Neptune’s Pleasure, crab with avocado and seaweed, as a starter. For a main course, shrimp masala with mixed vegetables and coriander is excellent, as is eggplant with ricotta in a tomato-and-basil sauce.

Shanti

Av. Adolphe Buyl 68 (at bd. Général Jacques). &02/649-40-96. www.shanti-restaurant.com. Main courses 9€–14€; fixed-price menus 20€–25€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–2pm and 6:30–10pm. Tram: 94 to Buyl.

West of the Bourse EXPENSIVE SEAFOOD A bright and cheerful ambience complements fine cuisine at this restaurant on the ground floor of a 19th-century maison de maître (town house) that has housed a fishmongers and traiteur (restaurant or catering business that sells takeout food) since 1922, and the tradition is taken seriously. Tiled walls and dark wood tables grace a small dining room. “Superb” is the best word to

François

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Where to Dine

describe seafood specialties, like the sole Ostendaise (North Sea sole cooked in butter) and the bouillabaisse, and their signature lobster dishes, mussels, and Zeeland oysters. The menu includes a few meat choices. The presentation is professional yet relaxed. In fine weather, dine on a great sidewalk terrace across the street on the old Fish Market square. If you’re dining indoors, try to get one of the window tables that have a view of the square. Quai aux Briques 2 (corner of place Ste-Catherine and Marché aux Poissons). &02/511-60-89. www. restaurantfrancois.be. Main courses 28€–58€; fixed-price menus 35€–39€; mussel plates 14€–28€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–2:30pm and 7–11:30pm. Métro: Ste-Catherine.

MODERATE TRADITIONAL BELGIAN “In the Spider’s Web” occupies a stagecoach inn from 1762, just far enough off the beaten track downtown to be frequented mainly by those in the know. You dine in a tilting, tiled-floor building, at plain tables, and more likely than not squeezed into a tight space. This is one of Brussels’s most traditional cafe/restaurants—so much so, in fact, that the menu lists its hardy standbys of regional Belgian cuisine in the old Bruxellois dialect. Stoemp mi sossisse is hotchpotch with sausage, and toung ave mei is sole. The bar stocks a vast selection of traditional beers. Tip: Just one click on its website’s home page takes you to a recording of Jacques Brel’s beautiful song “Le Plat Pays.” In ’t Spinnekopke

Place du Jardin aux Fleurs 1 (off rue Van Artevelde). & 02/511-86-95. www.spinnekopke.be. Main courses 16€–30€; plat du jour 13€; mussel plates 23€–28€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm and 6–11pm; Sat 6pm–midnight. Bar Mon–Fri 11am–midnight; Sat 6pm–midnight. Métro: Bourse.

FRENCH/INTERNATIONAL Even in its former incarnation, this place was concerned with style—it used to be the factory of chic Belgian leather-goods maker Delvaux. Fully refurbished, with hardwood floors, leather banquettes, polished wood, and stone tables, all set amid iron pillars and exposed air ducts, it produces trendy world cuisine on a French foundation, for a mostly youthful public. You may find it a little disconcerting at first to mix Asian menu dishes like dim sum and sushi with Moroccan couscous, Lyon sausage, sliced ostrich filets with mango and green pepper, and Belgian specialties like waterzooï, but you soon get the hang of it (the menu changes seasonally, so these particular dishes might not be available). Some evenings there’s live piano music. On sunny days in summer, you can dine outdoors on a terrace shaded by giant bamboo plants.

La Manufacture

Rue Notre-Dame du Sommeil 12–20 (off place du Jardin aux Fleurs). & 02/502-25-25. www. manufacture.be. Main courses 14€–27€; lunch menu 15€; fixed-price menus 35€–55€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2pm and 7–11pm; Sat 7pm–midnight. Métro: Bourse.

INEXPENSIVE Le Paon Royal BELGIAN One of my favorite small, family-owned restaurants, this typically Bruxellois treat is in a house dating from 1631 that has a rustic woodand-exposed-brick interior and timber-beamed ceiling. Have just a snack with one of the 65 brands of beer, six of them draft beers, behind the tiny bar (some of which are used in the cooking), or try the hearty plat du jour, invariably a traditional Belgian dish offered at lunchtime only. Specialties of the house are roast suckling pig in a mustard sauce, and cod filet in a Hoegaarden (Belgian white beer) sauce. In fine weather, chairs are generally set beneath a cluster of plane trees in a little park just across the street. Rue du Vieux Marché aux Grains 6 (at rue Ste-Catherine). &02/513-08-68. www.paonroyal.com. Main courses 15€–26€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 11:30am–9:30pm. Métro: Ste-Catherine.

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MODERATE

Rue St-Quentin 29 (off Sq. Ambiorix). &02/230-98-47. www.le-stevin.com. Main courses 15€–30€; fixed-price menus 20€–24€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm and 7–11:30pm. Métro: Schuman.

Seeing the Sights

If you’re experiencing an uncontrollable desire to rub shoulders with the European Union’s politicos and bureaucrats—including an occasional commissioner or government minister from an EU member state—this tranquil town house is the place to go. True, that’s not much of a recommendation, but fine food can make all the difference. Belgian specialties are prepared in a light, modern way that makes a pleasant change from the weightbound portions in traditional Belgian eateries. Have a premeal drink at an Art Deco bar, and in fine weather, dine alfresco in a garden at the back. The traditional wood-paneled setting features antique furnishings and old pictures of Brussels. Popular dishes here are sole, red mullet, and grilled or roast lamb. Wild mushrooms make a nice accompaniment for any of these meat and fish dishes.

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Le Stévin BELGIAN/FRENCH

South Brussels VERY EXPENSIVE Villa Lorraine TRADITIONAL FRENCH You’ll find one of the city’s top kitchens in this renovated château on the fringes of the Bois de la Cambre park. The dining rooms are spacious, with wicker furnishings, flower arrangements, and a skylight. In good weather, enjoy drinks outside under the trees. Among the classic French offerings are saddle of lamb in a delicate red wine–and-herb sauce, cold salmon in an herb sauce, partridge cooked with apples, and baked lobster with butter rose. Av. Du Vivier d’Orie 75. & 02/374-31-63. www.villalorraine.be. Main courses 38€–95€; fixed-price lunch 45€, dinner 85€–100€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–3:30pm and 7–9:30pm. Closed 3 weeks in July. Bus: 41 to Gendarmes.

SEEING THE SIGHTS Brussels has such a variety of things to see and do that it can sometimes be overwhelming. There are more than 75 museums dedicated to just about every special interest under the sun, in addition to impressive public buildings, leafy parks, and interesting squares. History is just around every corner. Fortunately, numerous sidewalk cafes offer respite for weary feet, and there’s good public transportation to those attractions beyond walking distance of the compact, heart-shaped center city, which contains many of Brussels’s most popular attractions.

The City’s Principal Squares GRAND-PLACE Ornamental gables, medieval banners, gilded facades, sunlight flashing off gold-filigreed rooftop sculptures, a general impression of harmony and timelessness—there’s

Free Culture Be sure to take advantage of the free admission some museums offer on the

first Wednesday afternoon of every month.

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6 What to See & Do in Brussels

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Up Close & Personal In styles ranging from Gothic through Flemish Renaissance and baroque to neo-Gothic, the Grand-Place has a wealth of architectural and decorative

elements. Bring a small pair of binoculars so you won’t miss even the tiniest details.

a lot to take in all at once when you first enter the Grand-Place (Métro: Gare Centrale or Bourse). Once the pride of the Habsburg Empire, the Grand-Place has always been the heart of Brussels. Jean Cocteau called it “a splendid stage.” Its present composition dates mostly from the late 1690s, thanks to France’s Louis XIV: In 1695 his army lined up its artillery on the heights of Anderlecht and blasted away at the medieval Grand-Place, using the Town Hall spire as a target marker. The French gunners destroyed the square, but ironically the Town Hall spire escaped undamaged. The timber-fronted buildings of the city’s trading and mercantile guilds were not so fortunate. But the Bruxellois weren’t about to let a mere French king do away with their centuries-old corporate headquarters. The guildsmen had the place up and running again within 4 years, on the same grand scale as before but in the baroque style known as the Flemish Renaissance. The Town Hall, though badly damaged by Louis’s guns, is the real thing, however, dating from the early 1400s. Don’t miss the cafes lodged within the opulent wood-beamed interiors of old guild houses; their upper-floor windows overlooking the Grand-Place give some of the best views in Europe. And be sure to take in the son-et-lumière on summer evenings. This sound-and-light show, in which a series of colored lamps on the Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) are switched on and off in sequence to appropriately grand music, is admittedly kind of kitsch. But who cares? It’s magical. Top honors go to the Gothic Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) and the neo-Gothic Maison du Roi (King’s House), which houses the Musée de la Ville de Bruxelles (Museum of the City of Brussels). See below for info on these. A Detailed Tour of the Grand-Place The Grand-Place deserves both a generalized visual sweep to absorb the ensemble, and a close-up perusal of the myriad details. Going clockwise around from rue de la Colline, you begin with nos. 13–19, a harmonious array of seven mansions behind a single facade, known as the Maison des Ducs de Brabant (House of the Dukes of Brabant) . The house dates from 1698 and is adorned with busts of 19 dukes on the pilasters, and it has a curved pediment below which is a sculptured allegory of Abundance. The seven mansions are: no. 19, La Bourse (the Stock Exchange)—not to be confused with the city’s main Bourse (see “Important Buildings & Monuments,” below); no. 18, La Colline (the Hill), formerly the Stonemasons’ Guild House; no. 17, Le Pot d’Etain (the Pewter Tankard), formerly the Carpenters’ Guild House; no. 16, Le Moulin à Vent (the Windmill), formerly the Millers’ Guild House; no. 15, La Fortune (Fortune), formerly the Tanners’ Guild House—the traditional Belgian restaurant ’t Kelderke is in the cellar (p.99); no. 14, L’Ermitage (the Hermitage), also known as L’Ecrevisse (the Crayfish); and no. 13, La Renommé (Fame). Next door, no. 12A is a private residence called L’Alsemberg. Cross over rue des Chapeliers. On this side of the Grand-Place are two relatively unadorned private homes: Le Mont Thabor, from 1699, at no. 12, named after Mt.

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Tabor in Israel, where Christians believe the Transfiguration of Jesus took place; and La Rose (the Rose), from 1702, at no. 11, named for the Van der Rosen family who lived in an earlier incarnation of the house during the 15th century, and which now houses the rustic Belgian bistro La Rose Blanche. Continuing around, no. 10, dubbed L’Arbre d’Or (the Golden Tree), from 1698, is headquarters of the Brewers’ Guild and is the location of the neat little Musée de la Brasserie (p.115). On the roof is a gilded equestrian sculpture from 1901 of Duke Charles of Lorraine. The next house, no. 9, also from 1698, is known as Le Cygne (the Swan), for the sculptured swan above the doorway. Formerly the Butchers’ Guild House, it now houses the refined restaurant La Maison du Cygne (p.96), and the entrance is around the corner on rue Charles Buls. Standing as if on stilts, no. 8, L’Etoile (the Star), is a small house that was built in 1897 over the archway on rue Charles Buls. Do what every visitor does here and ensure good luck by rubbing the bronze deathbed sculpture of Everard ’t Serclaes, a 14th-century local hero who freed the city from the counts of Flanders and died resisting another wouldbe conqueror. The monumental Gothic building across rue Charles Buls is the Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall), a glorious statement of Brussels’s medieval pride and prestige (p.111). Cross over rue de la Tête d’Or. No. 7, Le Renard (the Fox), formerly the Haberdashers’ Guild House, dates from 1699. Look for reliefs of typical haberdashery tasks on the busy facade, along with sculptures representing Africa, Europe, Asia, and the Americas, and on the roof a statue of St. Nicholas, the guild’s patron saint. Among the most interesting houses on the square is no. 6, the Italian-Flemish Le Cornet (the Horn), from 1697, which takes its name from a relief of a horn above the doorway. This was the Boatmens’ Guild House, as you might well guess from the nautical images on the facade and the pediment in the shape of a sailing ship’s stern. Images of ancient Rome adorn the facade of no. 5, La Louve (the She-Wolf)—also in the Italian-Flemish style, from 1696—among them the classic image of Romulus and Remus being suckled by a she-wolf. Look out also for the medallions of emperors Trajan, Tiberius, Augustus, and Julius Caesar, on a building that was the Archers’ Guild House. No. 4, Le Sac (the Sack), formerly the Carpenters’ and Coopers’ Guild House, is notable in that the lower floors survived the 1695 bombardment, and this part of the house dates from 1644. The post-bombardment rebuilding of the upper floors followed the original style. Likewise, no. 3, La Brouette (the Wheelbarrow), survived the French guns more or less intact, though the 1645 facade was embellished in later years, and there’s a sculpture of St. Gilles, the guild’s patron saint, on the gable of what’s now a tavern. The Bakers’ Guild clearly wasn’t short of cash in those days, and they invested plenty in their guild house at no. 1–2, Le Roy d’Espagne (the King of Spain) , from 1697. A neoclassical Italianate look extends to a cupola surmounted by a gilded weather vane. Medallions sport images of Roman emperors Marcus Aurelius, Nerva, Decius, and Trajan. This ornate building houses one of Brussels’s finest cafes, so be sure to invest some time in a drink at one of the upstairs tables, looking out on the grand cobbled square. Cross over rue au Beurre. The houses from nos. 39 to 34 form the plainest segment on the Grand-Place, allowing you a break from detailed facade-perusing. From left to right, the six are called L’Ane (the Donkey), Ste-Barbe (St. Barbara), Le Chêne (the Oak Tree), Le Peitit Renard (the Little Fox), Le Paon (the Peacock),

6 BRUSSELS Seeing the Sights

and Le Heaume (the Helmet). Across rue Chair et Pain is the neo-Gothic Maison du Roi (King’s House), which houses the city museum (p.111). Moving on across rue des Harengs, you arrive at the final segment. No. 28 has a strange name (even by Grand-Place standards): It’s called La Chambrette de l’Amman (the Little Chamber of the Amman), and it dates from 1709. The Amman was the name for a kind of early mayor, a minion of the dukes of Brabant. An alternate name is Le Marchand d’Or (the Gold Merchant), because it was once a gold merchant’s premises. No. 26–27, Le Pigeon (the Pigeon), from 1697, was the Painters’ Guild House. In the 1850s, Victor Hugo spent part of his time in exile from France here, firing off literary broadsides at Napoleon III until the City Fathers told him to leave town. Now the house is home to a fine lace store, the Maison Antoine (p.125), and a branch of Neuhaus pralines. St. Boniface, a native of Brussels, blesses passersby from the roof of no. 24–25, known as La Chaloupe d’Or (the Golden Sloop), or the Maison des Tailleurs (House of the Tailors), whose guild house it once was. Nowadays, under its firstmentioned name, it’s another of the Grand-Place’s standout cafes. A bust of St. Barbara, the patroness of tailors, is above the doorway of what is now the deluxe lace store Rubbrecht Dentelles. No. 23, L’Ange (the Angel), from 1697, is a private house in the Italian-Flemish style, graced by Doric and Ionic pilasters. Nos. 21–22 and 20, respectively known as Joseph et Anne (Joseph and Anne), from 1700, and Le Cerf (the Stag), from 1710, are relatively plain private dwellings. Godiva Chocolates now sets out its store in the Joseph et Anne, and Le Cerf is a traditional Belgian restaurant.

PLACE DU GRAND SABLON Though the traffic passing through it diminishes the experience, place du Grand Sablon (tram: 92 or 94) is filled with sidewalk cafes and lined with gabled mansions. Locals consider it a classier place to see and be seen than the Grand-Place. The Grand Sablon is antiques territory; many of its mansions house antiques stores or private art galleries with pricey merchandise on display. The dealerships have spread onto neighboring side streets as well. The statue of Minerva on the square dates from 1751. Saturday and Sunday mornings, an excellent antiques market sets up its stalls in front of Notre-Dame du Sablon (&02/511-57-41). This flamboyantly Gothic church, with no fewer than five naves, was paid for by the city’s Guild of Crossbowmen in the 15th century. The church is open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm, and weekends from 10am to 6:30pm. Admission is free.

PLACE DU PETIT SABLON Just across rue de la Régence is the Grand Sablon’s little cousin, place du Petit Sablon (tram: 92 or 94). An ornamental garden with a fountain and pool, it’s a magical little retreat from the city bustle. The 48 bronze statuettes adorning the surrounding wrought-iron fence symbolize Brussels’s medieval guilds. Two statues in the center commemorate the Catholic counts of Egmont and Hornes, who were beheaded in 1568 for protesting the cruelties of Spain’s Holy Inquisition in the Low Countries.

PLACE ROYALE Brussels’s royal square, place Royale (tram: 92 or 94), is at the meeting point of rue de la Régence and rue Royale, two streets that hold many of the city’s premier sights. The 18th-century square, which was laid out in neoclassical style, is graced by a heroic equestrian statue of the leader of the First Crusade, Duke Godefroid de Bouillon. The inscription describes him as the “First King of Jerusalem,” a title Godefroid 109

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himself refused, accepting instead that of “Protector of the Holy Places” (which amounted to the same thing). On the north face of the square is the Eglise St-Jacquessur-Coudenberg. Archaeologists have excavated the foundations of the Royal Palace of Emperor Charles V on the square, and the site has been covered over again.

PLACE DES MARTYRS Some years back, the once-elegant 18th-century place des Martyrs (Métro: Brouckère), in the lower city near the Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie, was in a sorry state, literally crumbling to the ground. It entombs the “500 Martyrs” of Belgium’s 1830 War of Independence. The square has been extensively restored, and though it lost some of its former ragged charm in the process, the square is once again an important and attractive public place.

Important Buildings & Monuments The celebrated Manneken-Pis statue , on the corner of rue du Chêne and rue de l’Etuve (Métro: Gare Centrale), 2 blocks from the Grand-Place, is Brussels’s favorite little boy, gleefully doing what a little boy’s gotta do. More often than not, he’s watched by a throng of admirers snapping pictures. Children especially seem to enjoy his bravura performance; adults, on the other hand, are more inclined to wonder what all the fuss is about. This is not the original statue, which was prone to theft and anatomical maltreatment and was removed for safekeeping. It’s known that the boy’s effigy has graced the city since at least the time of Philip the Good, who became count of Flanders in 1419. Among the speculations about the boy’s origins are that he was the son of a Brussels nobleman who got lost and was found while answering nature’s call; another is that he was a patriotic Belgian kid who sprinkled a hated Spanish sentry passing beneath his window. Perhaps the best theory is that he saved the Town Hall from a sputtering bomb by extinguishing it—like Gulliver—with the first thing handy. Louis XV of France began the tradition of presenting colorful costumes to “Little Julian” to make amends for the French abduction of the statue in 1747. Since then the statue has acquired around 800 outfits, which are housed in the Musée de la Ville on the Grand-Place. The ornately decorated Bourse (Stock Exchange), rue Henri Maus 2 (&02/509-12-11; Métro: Bourse), at boulevard Anspach, a landmark of the French Second Empire architectural style, dates from 1873. It’s a temple to the venerable religion of making money and is not open to casual visitors. Along its north facade, on rue de la Bourse, visit the interesting little Bruxella 1238 museum (see below). You may not want to spend too much time around the Palais de Justice (Palace of Justice), place Poelaert (& 02/508-65-78; Métro: Louise), adjacent to place Louise. This is, after all, where people who have run afoul of the law go directly to jail. Nonetheless, it’s worth viewing architect Joseph Poelaert’s extravagant (some would say megalomaniacal) 19th-century neoclassical temple dedicated to the might

The Lost River Believe it or not, Brussels is constructed on a river called the Senne. In the 19th century, the City Fathers had it

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covered up, but traces of the missing river can still be seen at courtyards off place St-Géry in the Lower Town.

Impressions —William Lord Fitzwilliam, Touring the Low Countries: Accounts of British Travellers, 1660–1720, Amsterdam University Press

Seeing the Sights

and majesty of the law. The palace’s domed magnificence stands on the old Galgenberg hill, once an open-air place of execution where criminals were hanged in public. It looms over the rebellious, working-class Marolles district, a none-too-subtle warning. A modern elevator out on the palace’s esplanade brings you down the steep hillside to the Marolles. Visit the reception hall of the palace, which is open Monday to Friday from 9 to 11:30am and 1:30 to 3pm. Admission is free. Not much has survived of the architecture of Burgundian-era Brussels; even most of the royal palace of the Burgundians and their Habsburg successors bit the dust due to fire. Part of the 15th- to 16th-century palace survives aboveground, 2 blocks east of Gare Centrale, in the redbrick Hôtel Ravenstein, rue Ravenstein 1–3 (Métro: Gare Centrale). Like the Hôtel de Ville, this is not a hotel at all. It houses a professional institute and the fancy French restaurant Le Relais des Caprices. But it does give you some idea of what Burgundian Brussels looked like—at least in those parts of the city occupied by the blue bloods. The only surviving gateway from Brussels’s once imposing 14th-century defensive walls is the squat and imposing Porte de Hal, at the junction of avenue de la Porte de Hal and chaussée de Waterloo (Métro: Porte de Hal).

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The principal [fountain] whereof is the Mannicke Piss, being the figure of a brass boy erected upon a pedestal, the water issuing from his privy member (at a good distance) into a stone cistern.

The Top Museums & Attractions Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) The facade of the dazzling Town Hall, from 1402, shows off Gothic intricacy at its best, complete with dozens of arched windows and sculptures—some of these, like the drunken monks, a sleeping Moor and his harem, and St. Michael slaying a female devil, displaying a sense of humor. A tower 66m (215 ft.) high sprouts near the middle, yet it’s not placed directly in the center. A colorful but untrue legend has it that when the architect realized his “error,” he jumped from the summit of the tower. Visit the interior on 40-minute tours, which start in a room full of paintings of the past foreign rulers of Brussels, who have included the Spanish, Austrians, French, and Dutch. The spectacular mirrored Gothic Hall, open for visits when the city’s aldermen are not in session, has baroque decoration. In other chambers are 16th- to 18th-century tapestries. One of these depicts the Spanish duke of Alba, whose cruel features reflect the brutal oppression he and his Council of Blood imposed on the Low Countries; others show scenes from the life of Clovis, first king of the Franks. Grand-Place. &02/548-04-42. Admission (for guided tours only) 3€ adults, 2.50€ seniors and students, 1.50€ children 6–15, free for children 5 and under. Guided tours in English Apr–Sept Tues–Wed 3:15pm, Sun 10:45am and 12:15pm; Oct–Mar Tues–Wed 3:15pm; tours at other times in French or Dutch. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1 and 11, and Dec 25. Métro: Gare Centrale.

This museum is in the neo-Gothic Maison du Roi (King’s House), which, despite its name, never housed a king. Exhibits inside document the history of Brussels. Among the

Musée de la Ville de Bruxelles (Museum of the City of Brussels)

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COMIC murals

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No fewer than 44 (and counting) large comic-strip murals and sculptures have been scattered around Brussels since the city began in 1993 to celebrate Belgium’s passionate love affair with bande-dessinée (comic-strip art). Among the cartoon characters honored on the sides of houses and other ordinary buildings are Tintin (rue de l’Etuve 37; Métro: Bourse), running down a fire escape together with Captain Haddock and Snowy, as if searching for the nearby Manneken-Pis; Lucky Luke (rue de la Buanderie 21; Métro: Anneessens), as always drawing his Colt faster than his shadow; and just along the street, Asterix and Obelix (rue de la Buanderie 33; Métro: Anneessens), leading a charge of the gallant Gauls against the rotten Romans. There’s a catch for visitors who want to take in as many of these heroic

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figures as possible: A lot of them are in off-the-beaten-track districts. Getting there will give you an idea of what Brussels looks like away from its tourist heartlands—not greatly inspiring, it must be said—at the cost of a great deal of Métro-, tram-, and bus-hopping, and considerable shoe leather. Both the Brussels International tourist office (see “Visitor Information” under “Orientation,” earlier in this chapter) and the Centre Belge de la Bande-Dessinée (see below) have information on the mural locations, which have been put together as a Parcours BD (Comic-Strip Tour). In addition, the English version of the Brussels city website (www.brussels.be) has pictures of the murals; look under Photo Albums/Admiring Brussels/Comic Book Walls in Brussels.

most fascinating displays are old paintings and modern scale reconstructions of the historic center city, particularly those depicting riverside activity along the now-vanished Senne. There are exhibits on traditional arts and crafts, such as tapestry and lace. The museum is most proud of its 800 costumes—among them an Elvis suit—donated to outfit Brussels’s famous Manneken-Pis statue; each one is equipped with a strategically positioned orifice so that the little sculpture’s normal function is not impaired. Grand-Place 1. &02/279-43-50. www.brusselsmuseums.be. Admission 3€ adults, 2.50€ seniors and students, 1.50€ visitors with limited mobility and children 6–15, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1 and 11, and Dec 25. Métro: Gare Centrale.

Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique (Belgian Royal Fine Arts Museums) In a vast museum of several buildings, this complex combines

the Musée d’Art Ancien and the Musée d’Art Moderne under one roof, as well as the Musée Magritte (connected by a passage; p.116). The collection shows off works, most of them Belgian, from the 14th to the 20th centuries. In the historical section are Hans Memling portraits from the late 15th century, which are marked by sharp lifelike details; works by Hieronymus Bosch; and Lucas Cranach’s Adam and Eve. You should particularly seek out the subsequent rooms featuring Pieter Bruegel the Elder, including his Adoration of the Magi and Fall of Icarus. Don’t miss his unusual Fall of the Rebel Angels, with grotesque faces and beasts. But don’t fear—many of Bruegel’s paintings, like those depicting Flemish village life, are of a less fiery nature. Later artists represented here include Rubens, van Dyck, Frans Hals, and Rembrandt. Next door, in a circular building connected to the main entrance, the modern art section has an emphasis on underground works—if only because the museum’s eight 112

The King’s Palace, which overlooks the Parc de Bruxelles, was begun in 1820 and had a grandiose Louis XVI–style face-lift in 1904. The older side wings date from the 18th century and are flanked by two pavilions, one of which sheltered numerous notables during the 1800s. Today the palace is used for state receptions. It contains the offices of King Albert II, though he and Queen Paola do not live there—their pied à terre is the Royal Palace at Laeken. The national flag flies when the sovereign is in Belgium.

Palais Royal (Royal Palace)

Seeing the Sights

Place Royale 1–3. & 02/508-32-11. www.fine-arts-museum.be. Admission 8€ adults; 5€ students, seniors, and visitors with disabilities; free for children 11 and under; free for everyone 1st Wed afternoon of the month (except during special exhibits). Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1 and 11, and Dec 25. Métro: Parc.

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floors are all below ground level. The overwhelming collection includes works by van Gogh, Matisse, Dalí, Tanguy, Ernst, Chagall, and Miró, as well as local boys Magritte, Delvaux, De Braekeleer, and Permeke. If you want to do this fantastic museum any kind of justice at all, you’ll need 3 to 4 hours; a serious art lover won’t bat an eyelid at spending a full day, taking time out only for lunch. In fast-track mode, you could do the Bruegel, Rubens, and Magritte collections in an hour.

Place des Palais. &02/551-20-20. www.monarchie.be. Free admission. From 3rd week of July to late Sept (exact dates announced yearly). Tues–Sun 10:30am–4:30pm. Métro: Parc.

Parc du Cinquantenaire Designed to celebrate the half-centenary of Belgium’s 1830 independence, the Cinquantenaire (Golden Jubilee) Park was a work in progress from the 1870s until well into the 20th century. Extensive gardens have at their heart a triumphal arch, the Arc du Cinquantenaire, topped by a bronze quadriga (four-horse chariot) sculpture, representing Brabant Raising the National Flag, and flanked by pavilions that house several fine museums. Autoworld Even if you’re not a car enthusiast, you’ll likely find this display of 500 historic cars set in the hangarlike Palais Mondial fascinating. The collection starts with early motorized tricycles from 1899 and moves on to a 1911 Model T Ford, a 1924 Renault, a 1938 Cadillac that was the official White House car for FDR and Truman, a 1956 Cadillac used by Eisenhower and then by Kennedy during his June 1963 visit to Berlin, and more. Parc du Cinquantenaire 11. &02/736-41-65. www.autoworld.be. Admission 6€ adults, 4.70€ students and seniors, 3€ children 6–13, free for children 5 and under. Apr–Sept daily 10am–6pm; Oct–Mar daily 10am–5pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 25. Métro: Mérode.

This vast museum shows off an eclectic collection of antiques, decorative arts (sculptures, tapestries, lace, porcelain, silver, furniture, toys, stained glass, jewels, folklore, and old vehicles including 18th-century coupes, sedan chairs, sleighs, and royal coaches), and archaeology. Some highlights are an Assyrian relief from the 9th century b.c., a Greek vase from the 6th century b.c., a tabletop model of imperial Rome in the 4th century a.d., the a.d. 1145 reliquary of Pope Alexander, some exceptional tapestries, and colossal statues from Easter Island.

Musée du Cinquantenaire

Parc du Cinquantenaire 10. &02/741-72-11. www.kmkg-mrah.be. Admission 5€ adults; 4€ students, seniors, and children 13–17; 1.50€ visitors with disabilities; free for children 12 and under; free admission every 1st Wed afternoon of the month (except during special exhibits). Tues–Fri 9:30am–5pm; Sat–Sun and holidays 10am–5pm. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1 and 11, and Dec 25. Métro: Mérode.

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Drive-In Movie Palace In summer the Arc du Cinquantenaire becomes the backdrop for the screen of a drive-in movie theater set around

the fountain between the Porte de Tervuren and the Palais du Cinquantenaire.

Musée Royal de l’Armée et d’Histoire Militaire (Royal Museum of the Armed Forces and Military History) Because Belgium is not and never has

been a great military power, this is one of Brussels’s often forgotten museums. But its huge collection is one of the finest in Europe. It includes an extensive display of armor, uniforms, and weapons from various Belgian campaigns (like the Congo), a massive amount of World War I artillery, an aircraft hangar of 130 impressive planes (among them a Spitfire and a Hurricane that recall Belgian pilots’ gallant service with the Royal Air Force during the Battle of Britain in 1940), and a World War II collection of Nazi flags that brings to mind the Nürnberg rallies. Anyone interested in military history shouldn’t miss this superb though cluttered collection. Parc du Cinquantenaire 3 (opposite Autoworld). &02/737-78-11. www.klm-mra.be. Free admission. Tues–Sun 9am–noon and 1–4:45pm. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1, and Dec 25. Métro: Merode.

Sights of Religious Significance Cathédrale des Sts-Michel-et-Gudule Victor Hugo considered this magnificent church, dedicated to the city’s patron, St. Michael, and to St. Gudula, to be the “purest flowering of the Gothic style.” Its choir is Belgium’s earliest Gothic work. Begun in 1226, it was officially consecrated as a cathedral only in 1961. The 16thcentury Habsburg Emperor Charles V donated the superb stained-glass windows. Apart from these, the spare interior decoration focuses attention on soaring columns and arches. The bright exterior stonework makes a fine sight. On Sunday at 10am, the Eucharist is celebrated with a Gregorian choir. In July, August, and September, polyphonic Masses are sung by local and international choirs at 10am. From August to October, chamber-music and organ concerts are occasionally performed on weekdays at 8pm. In spring and autumn at 12:30pm, Mass is sung accompanied by instrumental soloists and readings by actors (in French). In the crypt and an associated archaeological zone are foundations and other construction elements from an earlier church dating from the 11th century. The Trésor (Treasury) is also worth visiting, for its religious vessels in gold, silver, precious stones, and ecclesiastical vestments. Parvis Ste-Gudule (off bd. de l’Impératrice 2 blocks west of Gare Centrale). &02/217-83-45. www. cathedralestmichel.be. Admission: cathedral free; crypt, archaeological zone 2.50€; treasury 1€. Mon– Fri 8am–6pm; Sat–Sun 8:30am–6pm. Métro: Gare Centrale.

Eglise Notre-Dame du Sablon (Church of Our Lady of the Sablon)

This flamboyant late-Gothic church, dating from around 1400 to about 1594, was paid for by the city’s Guild of Crossbowmen, who optimistically called it Notre-Dame des Victoires (Our Lady of Victories), and it was their guild church. It is noted for its four-fold gallery with brightly colored stained-glass windows, illuminated from the inside at night, in striking contrast with the gray-white arches and walls. Worth seeing are the two baroque chapels decorated with funeral symbols in white marble. Inside is a celebrated statue of St. Hubert with an interesting history: It was actually stolen 114

from Brussels and taken to Antwerp but was seized and returned to the church in 1348, where it has remained ever since.

Rue au Beurre (facing the Bourse). &02/513-80-22. Free admission. Mon–Fri 8am–6:30pm; Sat 9am– 6pm; Sun and holidays 9am–7:30pm; closed to casual visitors during services. Métro: Bourse.

More Museums & Attractions

Seeing the Sights

This delightful little church behind the Bourse is almost hidden by the fine old houses surrounding it, just as its 11th-century Romanesque lines are hidden by a 14th-century Gothic facade and the repairs made after the French bombardment of 1695. The church holds a small painting by Rubens, the Virgin and Sleeping Child; a bronze shrine dedicated to the Catholic Martyrs of Gorcum (Gorinchem), tortured and killed by Protestant Dutch rebels in 1572; and the Vladimir Icon, painted by an artist from Constantinople in 1131.

Eglise St-Nicolas (Church of St. Nicholas)

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Rue Bodenbroek 6 (at place du Grand Sablon). &02/511-57-41. Free admission. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat–Sun 10am–6:30pm. Tram: 92 or 94 to Petit Sablon.

The Brussels Bourse (Stock Exchange) stands on the grounds of a Franciscan convent, Les Récollets, which succumbed over the centuries to wars, fire, and religious conflict. Excavations begun in 1988 uncovered the convent’s foundations and a bunch of medieval tombs. There’s now a small underground museum, Bruxella 1238, rue de la Bourse (&02/279-43-50), on the site. The most important tomb is that of Duke of Brabant Jean I, who died in 1294. You visit here only on guided tours that depart from the Musée de la Ville (see “Grand-Place” under “The City’s Principal Squares,” earlier in this chapter), Wednesday 10:15am (English), and 11:15am and 3pm (French). The tour costs 3€. Jardin Botanique This graceful 19th-century glass-and-wrought-iron palace is no longer the Botanical Gardens of Brussels, but it merits a visit as a monument of 19thcentury architecture. There’s still a fine ornamental garden outside. Nowadays the Botanique functions as a cultural center in which theater, music and dance performances, and visiting art exhibits are held. Rue Royale 236 (at bd. du Jardin Botanique). &02/226-12-11. Free admission to gardens and main building; admission varies for cultural events. Métro: Botanique.

Operated by the Confederation of Belgian Breweries, this museum is housed in the Maison des Brasseurs, the home of the Brewers’ Guild, the Knights of the Mash Staff. A permanent exhibit on modern

Musée de la Brasserie (Brewing Museum)

Underground Art Most of Brussels’s Métro stations have been decorated with works of art—a painting, sculpture, mosaic, or installation—by leading Belgian modern artists. Taken together, they form an underground museum that you can tour for the price of a Métro ticket. Among interesting Métro stations are: Bourse, in the center city, which has a mural of old Brussels trams by the surrealist

painter Paul Delvaux; Stockel, the eastern terminus of line 1B, where the walls are decorated with strips from the comic series Tintin, which was created by local hero Hergé; and Horta, south of Gare du Midi, which pays homage to Brussels’s Art Nouveau architect Victor Horta, by way of elements from some of the buildings and interiors he designed.

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high-tech brewing methods has joined an old one on traditional techniques. You’ll find numerous paintings, stained-glass windows, and collections of pitchers, pint pots, and old china beer pumps. And you get a chance to sample some of your host’s finished product. Grand-Place 10. &02/511-49-87. www.beerparadise.be. Admission 5€ adults. Apr–Dec daily 10am– 5pm; Jan–Mar Sat–Sun noon–5pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 25. Métro: Gare Centrale.

Musée du Costume et de la Dentelle (Costume and Lace Museum) The collections here include fine examples of historical Belgian lace styles from the oncerenowned factories of Mechelen, Bruges, Antwerp, Binche, Turnhout, Poperinge, and Sint-Truiden. In addition, the museum houses displays of costumes, including an array of dresses from the 16th to the 19th centuries. Rue de la Violette 12 (near Grand-Place). &02/213-44-50. Admission 3€ adults, 1.50€ children 6–16, free for children 5 and under. Mon–Tues and Thurs–Fri 10am–12:30pm and 1:30–5pm (until 4pm Oct– Mar); Sat–Sun 2–4:30pm. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1 and 11, and Dec 25. Métro: Gare Centrale.

Art Nouveau might take its name from the gallery opened by art dealer Siegfried Bing in Paris in 1895, but Brussels considers itself the capital of this medley of related art styles that burst across the Western world at the end of the 19th century and drew on exotic sources, including Celtic, Viking, Asian, and Islamic art. The city owes much of its rich Art Nouveau heritage to the inspired creative vision of Victor Horta, a resident architect who led the style’s development. His home and an adjoining studio have been restored to their original condition and are now a museum. They showcase his use of flowing, sinuous shapes and colors in interior decoration and architecture.

Musée Horta (Horta Museum)

Rue Américaine 25 (off chaussée de Charleroi). &02/543-04-90. www.hortamuseum.be. Admission 7€ adults, 3.50€ seniors and students, 2.50€ children 5–18, free for children 4 and under. Tues–Sun 2–5:30pm. Closed holidays. Tram: 81 to Trinité.

Musée Magritte Note: This museum should not be confused with the museum in Belgian artist René Magritte’s Brussels home (see next item). The Magritte Museum opened in 2009 in the Hôtel Altenloh, a neoclassical mansion dating from 1779 and an aristocratic setting for his fantastical visions that Magritte himself surely would have considered suitably surrealist. Its collection, bequeathed by the Musée d’Art Moderne of the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique (p. 112), comprises more than 150 works, making it the world’s largest Magritte catalog, covering all periods of the artist’s oeuvre and the multiple genres to which he applied his imagination and skill. The gallery has divided Magritte’s career into three broad phases, providing compelling visual evidence of his artistic evolution and culminating in signature works such as versions of his series The Dominion of Light and The Domain of Arnheim. Rue de la Régence 3 (at Coudenberg). &02/508-32-11. www.musee-magritte-museum.be. Admission 8€ adults (13€ combination ticket with Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique), 5€ seniors, 2€ students, free for children 17 and under. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm (until 8pm Wed). Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1 and 11, and Dec 25. Métro: Parc.

From 1930 to 1954, the great Belgian surrealist artist René Magritte lived and worked in an undistinguished town house in suburban Jette in northwest Brussels. Now restored, that 19-room house is a museum of the artist’s life. You’re allowed to visit most of the rooms, but you can only view through glass the dining room–cum-studio where he painted many of his fantastical masterpieces while wearing a three-piece suit. You even get to look through the famous window, with a

Musée René Magritte

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A Stroll Through the Marolles encroachment and gentrification from neighboring, far wealthier areas—a process the Marolliens seem to want nothing to do with. Locals remain resolutely unimpressed by the burgeoning “capital of Europe.”

Seeing the Sights

view of nothing in particular, onto which Magritte projected images that would revolutionize art and the way we look at the world. Be warned, though, that there’s little to see—This is not a studio, you might think—even though the museum’s founders have been diligent in uncovering bits and pieces of the artist’s banal private life. On the first and second floors are a few original sketches; his easel and trademark bowler hat; a pipe; his passport; his checkbook and will; household objects; and letters and photographs illustrating his commercial work, negotiations with museums about exhibits, and contacts with art dealers.

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The scuzzy Marolles district, lying beneath the long shadow of the Palace of Justice, is a special place where the old Brussels dialect called Brusseleir can still be heard. The generally poor community is under constant threat of

Rue Esseghem 135 (off bd. de Smet de Naeyer). &02/428-26-26. www.magrittemuseum.be. Admission 7€ adults, 6€ ages 9–23, free for children 8 and under. Wed–Sun 10am–6pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 25. Tram: 51 or 94 to Cimetière de Jette.

Musée Royal de l’Afrique Centrale/Koninklijk Museum voor Midden Afrika (Royal Museum of Central Africa) Originally founded to cele-

brate Belgium’s colonial empire in the Belgian Congo (now the Democratic Republic of Congo), this museum has moved beyond imperialism to feature exhibits on ethnography and environment, mostly in Africa, but also in Asia and South America. The beautiful grounds of this impressive museum are as much a draw as the exhibits inside. The collection includes some excellent animal dioramas, African sculpture, and other artwork, and even some of the colonial-era guns and artillery pieces that no doubt helped make Belgium’s claim to its African colonies more persuasive. A modern perspective is added by environmental displays that explain desertification, the loss of rainforests, and the destruction of habitats. Leuvensesteenweg 13, Tervuren (a suburban Flemish gemeente/district just east of Brussels). &02/769-52-11. www.africamuseum.be. Admission 4€ adults, 3€ seniors, 1.50€ children 13–17, free for children 12 and under. Tues–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. Closed Jan 1, May 1, and Dec 25. Tram: 44 from Métro Montgomery station to Tervuren terminus.

The Parliament building opposite the Parc de Bruxelles is quite an elegant place, if you ignore the politicians squabbling in the Chamber of Representatives and the Senate—bickering, after all, is part of democracy’s charm. The building dates from 1783 and was constructed originally to house the Sovereign Council of Brabant. You’re permitted to enter only during sessions of either house.

Palais de la Nation (National Palace)

Rue de la Loi 16. &02/519-81-36. Free admission. Métro: Parc.

Green Brussels Brussels is a green city with a great extent of parks and gardens. Once a hunting preserve of the dukes of Brabant, the Parc de Bruxelles (Brussels Park), rue Royale (Métro: Parc), between Parliament and the Royal Palace, was laid out in the 117

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Seeing the Sights

Ferry Tale Taking a ferryboat trip in the Bois de la Cambre is a literal moment. The ferry in question is a tiny, electrically operated

pontoon that makes a 1-minute crossing to Robinson’s Island in the lake at the heart of the park.

18th century as a landscaped garden. In 1830, Belgian patriots fought Dutch regular troops here during the War of Independence. Later it was a fashionable place to stroll and to meet friends. Although not very big, the park manages to contain everything from carefully trimmed borders to rough patches of trees and bushes, and it has fine views along its main paths, which together with the fountain form the outline of Masonic symbols. Diseased chestnut trees have been cut down and lime trees replaced with sturdier specimens; statues have been restored and cleaned; and the 1840s bandstand by Jean-Pierre Cluysenaer has been refurbished so it now hosts regular summer concerts. The cleanup diminished the various unwholesome nighttime activities in the park. The big public park called the Bois de la Cambre begins at the top of avenue Louise (tram: 94) in the southern section of Brussels. Its centerpiece is a small lake with an island in its center that can be reached by a neat little electrically operated pontoon. The park gets crowded on sunny weekends. A few busy roads with fastmoving traffic run through it, so be careful with children. The Forêt de Soignes, south of the Bois, is no longer a park with playing areas and regularly mown grass, but a forest that stretches almost to Waterloo. This is a great place to escape the maddening crowds and fuming traffic, particularly in the fall, when the colors are dazzling.

Especially for Kids There’s nothing quite like this cluster of giant spheres representing the atomic structure of an iron crystal enlarged 165 billion times, rising 102m (335 ft.) like a giant plaything of the gods that’s fallen to earth. The model was constructed for the 1958 World’s Fair. Whatever you think of its founding impulse, it’s a fair bet that when you stand underneath this vast schematic, you’ll be suitably impressed. There may be something last-century about this paean of praise to the wonders of science and technology, but the Atomium has somehow moved beyond this, taking on a monumental life of its own. The view from the deck on the top sphere is marvelous, and you can even wander around inside the spheres.

Atomium

Sq. de l’Atomium, Heysel (at Bruparck). &02/475-47-75. www.atomium.be. Admission 11€ adults; 8€ seniors, students, and children 12–18; 4€ children 6–11; free for children 5 and under. Daily 10am–6pm. Métro: Heysel.

Centre Belge de la Bande-Dessinée (Belgian Center for Comic-Strip Art) Grown-ups will love this place as much as kids do. Called the

CéBéBéDé for short, the center, on a side street not far from the Gothic spires and baroque guild houses of the Grand-Place, is dedicated to comic strips and takes a lofty view of what it calls “the Ninth Art.” As icing on the cake, it’s in a restored Art Nouveau department store from 1903, the Magasins Waucquez (designed by Victor Horta), which was slated for demolition before the center took it over. A model of the red-and-white checkered rocket in which Hergé’s Tintin and Snowy flew to the Moon, long before Armstrong and Aldrin did it in mere fact, takes pride of place at 118

Rue des Sables 20 (off bd. de Berlaimont). &02/219-19-80. www.cbbd.be. Admission 7.50€ adults; 6€ students, seniors, and children 12–18; 3€ children 6–11; free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sun 10am– 6pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 25. Métro: Gare Centrale.

Seeing the Sights

Mini-Europe Kids and adults alike will get a kick out of strolling around such highlights from member states of the European Union as London’s Big Ben, Berlin’s Brandenburg Gate, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Bull Ring in Seville (complete with simulated sounds of fans yelling ¡Olé!), and Montmartre in Paris, as well as more modern emblems of Continental achievement such as the Channel Tunnel and the Ariane rocket. Meanwhile, Mount Vesuvius erupts, gondolas float around the canals of Venice, and a Finnish girl dives into the icy waters of a northern lake. As the scale is 1:25, the kids will feel like giants.

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the top of the elegant staircase. Beyond is a comic-strip wonderland. All the big names appear in a library of 30,000 books and in permanent and special exhibits, including Tintin, Asterix, Thorgal, Lucky Luke, the Smurfs, Charlie Brown, Andy Capp, Suske and Wiske—yes, even Superman, Batman, and the Green Lantern— along with many lesser heroes.

Bruparck, Heysel (facing the Atomium). & 02/478-05-50. www.minieurope.com. Admission 13€ adults, 10€ children 12 and under, free for children under 1.2m (4 ft.) accompanied by parents. Mid-Mar to June and Sept daily 9:30am–6pm; July–Aug daily 9:30am–8pm (mid-July to mid-Aug Fri–Sun 9:30am–midnight); Oct–Dec and 1st week Jan daily 10am–6pm. Métro: Heysel.

The European District Home to the European Commission, European Parliament, Council of Ministers, and related institutions, Brussels has no less than 1.2 million sq. m (12.7 million sq. ft.) of office space packed with 20,000-plus Eurocrats to back up its “capital of Europe” tag. Entire neighborhoods full of character were swept away to make room for them. To tour the heartland of European Union governance, take the Métro to Schuman station. If you wish to view that exotic species, the European civil servant, in its native habitat, you’ll want to do this tour Monday to Friday; the district is dead during the weekend. Grab a bite to eat in one of the fancy restaurants favored by the Euro-crowd or a drink in one of the Irish bars that speckle the district. When you’re done, head for the Schuman or Maelbeek Métro stations for the fast track back to civilization. Your first sight is the X-shaped Palais de Berlaymont (Berlaymont Palace), the commission’s former headquarters, at Rond-Point Schuman. Across rue de la Loi, the Council of Ministers headquarters, the Consilium, is instantly recognizable for its facade’s lavish complement of rose-colored granite blocks. On its far side, a soothing stroll through little Parc Léopold brings you to the postmodern European Parliament and International Conference Center, an architectural odyssey in white marble and tinted glass. Take the passageway through the building’s middle to place Léopold, an old square that looks lost and forlorn in comparison to its powerful new neighbors. An island of green and tranquillity—and perhaps even sanity—at the heart of the Euro District, the graceful, small 19th-century Parc Léopold, laid out around a pond, was originally conceived as a zoo and science park. The zoo didn’t fly for long, but a cluster of scientific institutes dating from the late 19th and early 20th centuries still occupies part of the terrain. Among these is the Institut de Sociologie from 1902, which contains the magnificently ornate Solvay Library. At the south end of Parc Léopold is the Institut Royal des Sciences Naturelles, which houses the Natural Sciences Museum and the Musée Wiertz. 119

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Seeing the Sights

A New Art A new design style appeared toward the end of the 19th century and flourished for a few decades. It was called Art Nouveau in the United States and Britain. Art Nouveau’s prime materials were glass and iron, which were worked with decorative curved lines and floral and geometric motifs. Belgium produced one of its greatest exponents in Victor Horta (1861–1947); his work can be seen in Brussels, where the Tassel House (1893) and the Hôtel Solvay (1895) are forerunners of the ambitious Maison du Peuple (1896–99), with its concave, curved facades and location within an irregularly shaped square. His

most famous building was the Innovation department store (1901), which was destroyed by fire. Fans of the city’s superb legacy of Art Nouveau architecture should check out the works of Gustave Strauven (1878–1919), the Brussels-born student of Horta. Strauven’s signature is his use of blue and yellow bricks. He designed the Maison St-Cyr on square Ambiorix (see below), and about 100 private homes in Brussels and Tournai. A private enthusiast has restored Strauven’s own Brussels home (1902), at rue Luther 28 (Bus: 29), a few blocks north of square Ambiorix.

THE ART NOUVEAU SQUARES It’s fortunate that the European District has at least one neighborhood that has yet to be engulfed by marble and glass: a 19th-century bourgeois residential neighborhood just off its northern flank. You can reach this Art Nouveau area by a short walk along bd. Charlemagne or rue Archimède from the Palais du Berlaymont (Métro: Schuman or Maelbeek). The first thing you notice are the central gardens laid out along a gentle east-west slope. At the heart of square Ambiorix is an ornamental garden that continues across the street on square Marguerite. This is a good place for a sandwich-box lunch in fine weather, and many Euro civil servants take advantage of it. Square Marie-Louise, downhill via avenue Palmerston, is dominated by a large artificial pond in which a fountain plays, and it has artificial grottoes along its eastern bank. Outside of the gardens—ignoring as best you can both the expensive but undistinguished interloping modern apartments and the giant parking lot that the surrounding streets have become—stroll around for a close-up look at the town houses and mansions, in Art Nouveau and other styles, that border the squares. Perhaps the finest is the slender Maison Saint-Cyr (1903) at sq. Ambiorix 11, a flamboyant, almost sensuous masterpiece of curling wrought-iron, curved windows, and swirling brick, designed for the artist Georges Léonard de Saint-Cyr by Gustave Strauven, a then 22-year-old student of Art Nouveau master Victor Horta. Close by, the Hôtel Van Eetvelde (1898), at av. Palmerston 4, was designed by Horta for an industrious exploiter of Belgium’s Congo colony. Tolerably sober on the outside, it has a wealth of precious and exotic materials inside. The Hôtel Deprez-Van de Velde (1896), at no. 3, and its neighbor at no. 2 are also by Horta. The nearby Villa Germaine (1897), at av. Palmerston 24, is interesting for its eclectic style and multicolored brickwork, tiles, and mosaics.

Organized Tours Bus tours, which last 3 hours and operate throughout the year, are available from Brussels City Tours, rue du Marché aux Herbes 82 (&02/513-77-44;

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www.brussels-city-tours.com; Métro: Gare Centrale). The tours start at 24€ for adults and 12€ for children. Reservations can be made through most hotels, and hotel pickup is often available. From June 15 to September 15, Le Bus Bavard, rue des Thuyas 12 (&02/67318-35; www.busbavard.be), operates a daily 3-hour “chatterbus” tour at 10am from the Galeries Royales St-Hubert (Métro: Gare Centrale), a mall next to rue du Marché aux Herbes 90, a few steps off the Grand-Place. A walking tour covers the historic center city, followed by a bus ride through areas the average visitor never sees. You hear about life in Brussels and get a real feel for the city. Most tours costs around 8€. You don’t need a reservation for this fascinating experience—just be there by 10am. ARAU, bd. Adolphe Max 55 (& 02/219-33-45; www.arau.org; Métro: De Brouckère), organizes tours that help you discover not only Brussels’s countless treasures but also problems the city faces. It runs 3-hour themed coach tours: “GrandPlace and Its Surroundings,” “Brussels 1900—Art Nouveau,” “Brussels 1930—Art Deco,” “Surprising Parks and Squares,” and “Alternative Brussels.” Reserve ahead. Tours by bus are 15€ for everyone over 25 and 12€ for those 25 and under; tours by foot are 10€. They take place on Saturday mornings from March to November; private group tours can be arranged year-round.

SPORTS & RECREATION BOWLING The top bowling alley (with a laser-games facility, Q-Zar) is Bowling Crosly, bd. de l’Empereur 36 (&02/512-08-74; www.crosly.be; bus: 27 or 48). HORSEBACK RIDING In the south of Brussels, both the Bois de la Cambre and the Forêt de Soignes are great places for horseback riding. Contact Centre Equestre de la Cambre, chaussée de Waterloo 872 (&02/375-34-08; bus: W, 136, 137, or 365); and Royal Etrier Belge, champ du Vert Chasseur 19 (& 02/374-28-60; www.royaletrierbelge.be; bus: W, 136, 137, or 365). ICE SKATING There’s ice skating from September to May at Poseidon, av. des Vaillants 4 (&02/762-16-33; www.ijsbaanposeidon.be; Métro: Tomberg). SOCCER The top local soccer club is RSC Anderlecht, av. Théo Verbeeck 2 (&02/522-15-39; www.rsca.be; Métro: Sint-Guido), which is always in contention for Belgian prizes and usually in the running for European honors. During Continental tournaments, crack European soccer squads can often be seen in action at the stadium in Anderlecht.

SHOPPING Brussels is not the place to come expecting bargains. It’s expensive, though no more so than Paris, Amsterdam, and Cologne. Still, there are reasonable prices to be found, even some bargains. A lot depends on where and when you shop. As a general rule, the upper city around avenue Louise and Porte de Namur is more expensive than the lower city around rue Neuve and the center-city shopping galleries around La Monnaie and place de Brouckère. But this is not a fixed rule. For example, rue Haute, in the upper city, is inexpensive, while the Galeries Royales St-Hubert, in the lower city, is expensive. Shopping hours are generally from 9 or 10am to 6pm Monday to Saturday. On Friday evening, many center-city stores, particularly department stores, stay open 121

SOME BRUSSELS specialties

Shopping

Bruxellois know a thing or two about chocolate. So addictive are theirs that they really should be sold with a government health warning. Just ask anyone who has ever bitten into one of those devilish little creations—handmade pralines, made and sold by Wittamer (p.125); Nihoul, chaussée de Vleurgat 111 (&02/648-37-96; www. nihoul.be; tram: 94); Neuhaus (p.125); Leonidas, place du Grand Sablon 41 (&02/513-14-66; www.leonidas.com; tram: 92 or 94); and . . . well, it’s a long list. Many branches of the city’s best chocolatiers are congregated at place du Grand Sablon. You’ll find some of the finest confections at Mary (p.125) and La Maison des Maîtres Chocolatiers Belges (p.125). Lace is another old favorite that’s widely available in the city, particularly

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in and around the Grand-Place. Purchase from Maison Antoine (p.125) or Manufacture Belge de Dentelle (p.125). For local beers like gueuze, kriek, and faro—among the 450 or so different Belgian beers—head for A la Mort Subite (see “Brussels After Dark,” below). Other traditional products include jenever (gin), of which there are some 270 brands produced by 70 distilleries; crystal, particularly superb Val-SaintLambert crystal from Liège; ceramics; jewelry; hand-beaten copper or bronze; and even diamonds, though Brussels is nowhere near as sparkling in this respect as Antwerp. Finally, sweet-toothed shoppers should try Dandoy (p. 125).

until 8 or 9pm. A useful source of shopping information is the weekly Englishlanguage what’s-on guide Brussels Unlimited, which keeps tabs on the latest shopping ideas and trends, and reviews individual stores.

Shopping Promenades Many of Brussels’s most interesting stores are clustered along certain promenades or arcades. Rue Neuve, which starts at place de la Monnaie and extends north to place Rogier, is practically a pedestrian shopping mall; this busy and popular area is home to many boutiques and department stores, including City 2, a modern shopping complex. Boulevard Anspach, which runs from the Stock Exchange up to place de Brouckère, is home to a number of fashion boutiques, chocolate stores, and electronic-appliance stores. The Anspach Center (near place de la Monnaie) is a shopping mall. One of Europe’s oldest “malls,” the glass-roofed Galeries Royales St-Hubert (www.galeries-saint-hubert.com; Métro: Gare Centrale) is a light and airy arcade hosting boutiques and other upmarket stores (Davenport, Ganterie Italienne, Delvaux, Oriande, Belgique Gourmande, and more), sidewalk cafes, a theater and a movie theater, and street musicians playing classical music. Constructed in Italian neo-Renaissance style and opened in 1847, architect Pierre Cluysenaer’s gallery offers shopping with a touch of class and is well worth strolling through even if you have no intention of window-shopping. The elegant gallery has three connected wings—Galerie du Roi, Galerie de la Reine, and Galerie des Princes—and was the forerunner of other city arcades like the Burlington in London. It is just north of the 122

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Grand-Place, between rue du Marché aux Herbes and rue d’Arenberg, and is split by rue de Bouchers. There are entrances on all three of these streets. Avenue Louise and the nearby boulevard de Waterloo attract those in search of world-renowned, high-quality goods from such stores as Cartier, Burberry’s, Louis Vuitton, and Valentino. A different kind of style rules amid the boutiques on trendy rue Antoine Dansaert (Métro: Bourse), a long street that runs from close to the Bourse northwest to canalside boulevard de Nieuport. Along its length are names like Princesse tam.tam, at no. 9 (&02/514-57-01; www.princessetamtam.com), for sexy lingerie; Plus One, at no. 60 (&02/503-02-90; www.plus1.be), for fashionable pregnancy apparel; and Christa Reniers, at no. 196 (&02/510-06-60; www. christareniers.com), for designer jewelry. The Galerie Agora (off Grand-Place) offers a wide variety of modestly priced merchandise, including leather goods, clothing, souvenirs, records, and jewelry.

Outdoor Markets At the Vieux Marché flea market on place du Jeu de Balle, a large square in the Marolles district, you’ll find some exceptional decorative items, many recycled from the homes of the “recently deceased,” and unusual postcards, clothing, and household goods. So you should be able to snap up a bargain on everything from the weird to the wonderful. The market is held daily from 7am to 2pm. Every weekend the place du Grand Sablon hosts a fine Antiques Market. The salesmanship is low-key, the interest is pure, the prices are not unreasonable (don’t expect bargains, though), and the quality of the merchandise—which includes silverware, pottery, paintings, and jewelry—is high. The market is open Saturday from 9am to 6pm and Sunday from 9am to 2pm. May to October, Tuesday to Sunday, the Grand-Place hosts a Flower Market that’s open from 8am to 6pm. Nearby, at the top end of rue du Marché aux Herbes, in a square called the place de l’Agora, there’s a weekend Crafts Market, with lots of fine specialized jewelry and other items, mostly inexpensive. From mid-May to September, painters, sculptors, potters, photographers, and other artists sell their work—and some of them produce it, too—at the Marché d’Art, Parvis Saint-Pierre, Uccle. The market is open Sunday from 10am to 1pm. Two weekends before Christmas is the occasion for the European Union Christmas Market on and around place Ste-Catherine. From Friday evening until Sunday evening, the square is a hub of activity, as each country of the EU sets out its stall with traditional foods and products. There’s music, singing, and dancing, and the festive spirit is fueled by mulled wine and typical national drinks. The main problem is that, at times, the square gets so busy that it is almost impossible to move. Still, this is a colorful and memorable event. In a part of Ixelles district that has its share of restaurants, bars, and shops, place du Châtelain and its environs (tram: 81, 93, or 94) host a trendy crowd on Wednesday from 2 to 7pm for the bustling weekly green food market, a medley of scents, color, and organic produce. Browse the market stalls for an impromptu picnic.

Shopping A to Z Here’s a short list of my personal recommendations, only a small sampling of Brussels’s best shopping and the wealth of chocolatiers in the city; many of the chocolate shops listed below have multiple locations. 123

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Shopping

An Affordable Wine Source If you’re planning to purchase wine by the bottle, don’t be fooled into the idea that you have to go to an expensive wine store to get something worthwhile. The midprice Delhaize supermarket chain has built up an enviable reputation and a loyal local following for the quality of its wine department.

Delhaize’s buyers look for good value in all price categories and have an adventurous streak that makes them look beyond the classic names. There are Delhaize supermarkets all over Brussels (and Belgium). Ask at your hotel desk for the nearest branch.

ART Ma Maison de Papier Owner Marie-Laurence Bernard is an enthusiast for vintage posters—she has written three books on the subject—that do more than hide a crack on your bathroom wall. Many kinds of posters are here, from a 1930s cigarette ad to a reproduction Toulouse-Lautrec, as well as original Art Nouveau and Art Deco works by Belgian, French, and other masters of the genre. Galerie de la Rue de Ruysbroeck 6 (off place du Grand Sablon). &02/512-22-49. www.mamaisondepapier.be. Tram: 92 or 94 to Petit Sablon.

BOOKS It’s not so easy to find a wide selection of English-language books in Brussels, but the major British bookstore chain does have a full-size branch here that sells magazines, newspapers, and books. The books, however, usually cost 30% to 60% more than in Britain. Bd. Adolphe Max 71 (at rue du Pont Neuf). &02/219-27-08. www.

Waterstone’s

waterstones.com. Métro: Rogier.

CHILDREN Boutique de Tintin Forget computer games and other electronic toys. If you need to buy a gift for the kids, take home some Tintin mementos from this excellent, if somewhat pricey and stuffy (surprising, considering the stock in trade), store. Rue de la Colline 13 (off Grand-Place). &02/514-51-52. Métro: Gare Centrale.

EURO-STUFF One of the most surprising marketing phenomena of recent years has been the popularity of the European Union’s symbol: a blue flag with a circle of 12 stars. At Eurotempo you find this logo on an astonishing range of products: umbrellas, T-shirts, pens, golf balls, watches, hats, knives, towels—you name it. Where better to buy Euro stuff than in the capital of Europe? Rue du Marché aux Herbes 84 (off rue du Marché

Eurotempo

aux Peaux). &02/503-39-53. www.eurotempo.com. Métro: Gare Centrale or Bourse.

FASHION & APPAREL At its Galeries Royales St-Hubert store, this local company, founded in 1829, makes and sells some of the best—and priciest—handbags and leather goods in Belgium. Galerie de la Reine 31 (off Grand-Place). & 02/512-71-98. www.delvaux.com.

Delvaux

Métro: Gare Centrale or Bourse.

This is a glove store with Italian style, founded in 1890, selling attractive handwear that keeps out the winter cold. It’s open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 6pm. Galerie de la Reine 3 (off Grand-Place). &02/512-75-

Ganterie Italienne

38. Métro: Gare Centrale or Bourse.

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This top-rated Belgian fashion designer is just one of several big names with boutiques in this area. His store is strong on elegant, ready-to-wear items.

Olivier Strelli

FLOWERS Daniël Ost This flower store, in a superb Art Nouveau location, is just the place for that important bouquet. Rue Royale 13 (at rue de la Croix de Fer). &02/217-29-17. Métro:

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Av. Louise 72 (at place Stéphanie). &02/512-56-07. www.strelli.be. Métro: Louise.

Botanique.

Founded in 1829, Dandoy is still the place for sweet-toothed cookies-’n’-cakes fans. Try the traditional Belgian house specialties: spicy speculoos cookies (made with brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, and almonds, and baked in wood molds), and pain à la grecque (thin, spicy caramelized, sugary flaky pastries). Rue au Beurre 31

Dandoy

Shopping

FOOD & WINES

(off Grand-Place). &02/511-03-26. www.biscuiteriedandoy.be. Métro: Bourse.

Don’t miss this small store near the Fish Market. It has a superb selection of roasted and blended coffees and wines in all price categories, and an array of specialty crackers, nuts, spices, teas, and gourmet snacks, many of which are canned, making them suitable for transport home. Rue de Flandre 36. & 02/511-13-73. Métro: Ste-

De Boe

Catherine.

Housed in one of the few Grand-Place guild houses that at least in part survived the 1695 French artillery bombardment, this chocolatier is a showcase for handmade chocolates created by a team of artisans from around the country. Grand-Place 4. &02/888-66-20. www.mmcb.be. La Maison des Maîtres Chocolatiers Belges

Métro: Gare Centrale or Bourse.

Mary Supplier of pralines to the Belgian royal court—which tells you right away that these are no plain chocolates—Mary is a small store, but its wares look every bit as good as they taste. Rue Royal 73 (at rue du Congrès). &02/217-45-00. www.marychoc.com. Métro: Parc.

Neuhaus This chocolatier sells some of the best of the dangerously delicious Belgian handmade chocolates. Purchase gift pralines here. Galerie de la Reine 25–27 (off Grand-Place). &02/512-63-59. www.neuhaus.be. Métro: Gare Centrale or Bourse. Wittamer Wittamer makes some of the best handmade pralines in the world. Its rolls, breads, pastries, and cakes have been winning fans here since 1910. Place du Grand Sablon 12 (at rue Ste-Anne). &02/512-37-42. www.wittamer.com. Tram: 92 or 94 to Petit Sablon.

LACE Maison Antoine This lace boutique is one of the best in Brussels and surely has the best location, a former guild house where Victor Hugo lived in 1852. The quality is superb, the service friendly, and the prices decent. Grand-Place 26. & 02/512-48-59. Métro: Gare Centrale or Bourse.

Unlike the many Belgian lace stores that sell machine-made and imported lace, this store, which has been based in the Galeries Royal St-Hubert since 1847, sells top-quality handmade Belgian lace. Galerie de la Reine Manufacture Belge de Dentelle

6–8 (off Grand-Place). &02/511-44-77. www.mbd.be. Métro: Gare Centrale or Bourse.

MULTIMEDIA FNAC This good-value books, electronics, and photo chain has a branch in the giant City2 multistory mall on the city’s main shopping drag. It also sells concert tickets. Rue Neuve (at bd. du Jardin Botanique). &02/275-11-11. Métro: Rogier.

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Brussels After Dark

BRUSSELS AFTER DARK Brussels may not be internationally known for its nightlife, but that’s partly because it’s overshadowed by the worldwide reputations of neighboring capitals like Paris and London. Nightlife is actually alive and doing rather well in Brussels, and if the range is inevitably thinner than in bigger cities, the quality is not. There’s little doubt that the most splendid nightlife outlook in town is from the bars and cafes around the central Grand-Place (Métro: Gare Centrale or Bourse) and, to a lesser degree, place du Grand Sablon (tram: 92 or 94). Still, these places are admittedly more than a little touristy, and there are spots not too far away that have a far cooler cachet. The place Ste-Catherine (Métro: Sainte-Catherine) and place St-Géry (Métro: Bourse) neighborhoods, west of boulevard Anspach, are good for trendy bars and cafes that attract the young and hip, and on the near side of this boulevard to the Grand-Place, rue du Marché au Charbon (Métro: Bourse) is good for both lively bars and gay nightlife. For African vibes, music, late-night shopping, and more, head to the Matonge quarter (Métro: Porte de Namur), named after a district in Kinshasa and centered on rue Longue-Vie between chaussée de Wavre and chaussée d’Ixelles. Also in Ixelles, place du Châtelain (tram: 81, 93, or 94) and its environs is another hotspot for trendy bars and cafes. Spanish and Portuguese spots can be found toward the southern end of rue Haute and neighboring streets in the Marolles district (Métro: Porte de Hal). For current information on after-dark entertainment during your visit, purchase the weekly English-language what’s-on guide Brussels Unlimited.

The Performing Arts OPERA & BALLET An opera house in the grand style, the Théâtre Royal de la , place de la Monnaie (&070/23-39-39; www.lamonnaie.be; Métro: Monnaie De Brouckère), is home to the Opéra Royal de la Monnaie—which has been called the best in the French-speaking world—and the Orchestre Symphonique de la Monnaie. The resident modern dance company, Anne Teresa de Keersmaeker’s group Rosas (&02/344-55-98; www.rosas.be), is noted for its original moves. The box office is open Tuesday to Saturday from 11am to 6pm. Tickets run 10€ to 170€; those 25 and under may be able to get tickets for 10€ just before a show. CLASSICAL MUSIC BOZAR , rue Ravenstein 23 (&02/507-82-00; www. bozar.be; Métro: Gare Centrale)—the Palais des Beaux-Arts—is home to Belgium’s National Orchestra. The box office is open Monday to Saturday from 11am to 6pm, with tickets running 10€ to 75€.

Heritage Celebration On the third weekend in September, the annual Journées du Patrimoine (Heritage Days) program allows you to visit some of the finest buildings in town that are usually closed to visitors. Sixty or so sites are open. For more

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details, visit the information center in the Halles St-Géry, place St-Géry 23 (&02/502-44-24; www.hallessaint gery.be; Métro: Bourse), open daily from 10am to 6pm (admission is free).

puppet SHOWS: A BELGIAN PASSION

Brussels After Dark

came to personify their home cities: A cheeky ragamuffin named Woltje (Little Walloon) was from Brussels; Antwerp had the cross-eyed, earthy, ne’er-do-well Schele; Pierke, from Ghent, was modeled on the traditional Italian clown; and Liège’s Tchantchès stood only 16 inches high and always appeared with patched trousers, a tasseled floppy hat, and his constant companion, the sharp-tongued Nanesse (Agnes). Today a few Belgian puppet theaters still survive, and their popularity has increased in recent years.

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A special word is in order about a special sort of theater—that of the wooden marionettes that have entertained Belgians for centuries. In times past, puppet theaters numbered in the hundreds nationwide (Brussels alone had 15), and the plays were much like our modernday soap operas. The story lines went on and on, sometimes for generations, and working-class audiences returned night after night to keep up with the Dallas of the times. Performances were based on folklore, legends, or political satire. Specific marionette characters

Concerts are performed at the Cirque Royal, rue de l’Enseignement 81 (&02/ 218-20-15; www.cirque-royal.org; Métro: Parc), which was formerly a real circus but is now a venue for music, opera, ballet, and more. The box office is open Tuesday to Saturday from 11am to 6pm, with tickets for 10€ to 75€. Le Botanique, rue Royale 236 (& 02/218-37-32; www.botanique.be; Métro: Botanique), generally focuses on small-scale modern and avant-garde performances, not only of classical music but also of jazz and other forms. THEATERS Brussels theater is important among French-speaking countries, with more than 30 theaters presenting performances in French, Dutch, and (occasionally) , rue de la English. Among the most important is the Théâtre Royal du Parc Loi 3 (&02/505-30-40; www.theatreduparc.be; Métro: Parc), a magnificent edifice occupying a corner of the Parc de Bruxelles, where classic and contemporary drama and comedies are performed. The Théâtre National de la Communauté Française, bd. Emile Jacqmain 111–115 (& 02/203-53-03; www.theatrenational.be; Métro: De Brouckère), is mainstream; and the Théâtre Royal des Galeries, Galerie du Roi 32 (&02/512-04-07; www.trg.be; Métro: Gare Centrale), is known for its range of offerings, including drama, comedy, and musicals. Also important is Le Botanique, rue Royale 236 (& 02/218-37-32; www. botanique.be; Métro: Botanique), inclined toward the experimental in mostly French theater. Bringing theater to the city in Dutch is the Koninklijke Vlaamse Schouwburg, quai aux Pierres de Taille/Arduinkaai 9 (& 02/210-11-12; www.kvs.be; Métro: Yser), in a restored neo-Renaissance-style building dating from 1887.

Puppet Theater Toone Look for the small wooden sign in the tiny alleyway—impasse Schuddeveld—to reach this theater, in an upstairs room in a bistro of the same name. It’s the latest in the Toone line of puppet theaters, which dates back to the early 1800s— the title being passed from one puppet master to the next—and it may be the most popular theater in Brussels. At Toone, puppet master José Géal presents his adaptation of such classic tales as The Three Musketeers, Faust, and Hamlet in the Brussels 127

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dialect, Brussels Vloms, and in English, French, Dutch, and German. In any case, language should present no difficulties since it’s easy to follow the action on stage. Impasse Ste-Pétronille, rue du Marché aux Herbes 66. &02/511-71-37. www.toone.be. Ticket prices and performance times vary; check in advance. Métro: Gare Centrale.

Jazz & Blues Clubs L’Archiduc, rue Antoine Dansaert 6 (&02/512-06-52; www.archiduc.net; Métro: Bourse), had the brilliant idea of putting on after-shopping jazz concerts on Saturday beginning at 5pm, and then went one better by repeating the idea (minus the shopping) on Sunday. For those who like their licks a little more restrained, there’s a jazz brunch at the Sheraton Brussels Airport Hotel, facing the terminal building (&02/710-80-00; www.sheratonbrusselsairport.com; train: Brussels Airport), once a month on Sunday from noon to 3pm. Le Sounds, rue de la Tulipe 28 (&02/51292-50; www.soundsjazzclub.be; bus: 54 or 71), in the Ixelles district, has daily jazz concerts, and a workshop on Mondays at 7:30pm. During the 3-day, late-May Brussels Jazz Marathon (&02/456-04-84; www. brusselsjazzmarathon.be), there are more than 125 concerts, covering all known jazz forms, at outdoor venues like the Grand-Place and Place du Grand Sablon, and at clubs, bars, and indoor cultural venues around town. Outdoor concerts are free; a pass for all indoor concerts is 15€, and 12€ if you reserve ahead of time.

Dance Clubs Nothing in life changes quite so fast as the “in” places. But there are a few that stand the test of time—and that, of course, makes them anathema to genuine dance hounds. Since the turnover rate is so high, be sure to check locally to see if the following are still in operation before setting out for the night. Sophisticated and central, Duke’s Nightclub, in the Royal Windsor Hotel Grand Place, rue Duquesnoy 5 (& 02/505-55-55; royalwindsorbrussels.com; Métro: Gare Centrale), is in full swing every night from Thursday to Sunday. Mirano Brussels, chaussée de Louvain 38 (&02/227-39-70; www.mirano.be; Métro: Madou), north of the city center and reopened after major refurbishing, is a classy place for those whose wildest years are a few years behind them but who still like to enjoy themselves. A few blocks north of the Grand-Place, Nostalgia Club, rue de la Fourche 49–51 (& 02/513-32-91; www.nostalgia-club.be; Métro: De Brouckère), is similar, with hits from the ’60s, ’70s, and ’80s. , rue Duquesnoy 18 (& 02/639-14-00; www.leyou.be; Métro: Gare You Centrale), is just off the Grand-Place and features a consistently up-to-date approach to music. West of the Grand-Place, Cartagena , rue du Marché au Charbon 70 (&02/502-59-08; www.cartagenasalsabar.be; Métro: Bourse), is as hot as a salsa night in, well, Cartagena, and dispenses drinks and music from all over Latin Amer, rue Blaes 208 ica. If only techno will do (along with a dab of house), Fuse (&02/511-97-89; www.fuse.be; Métro: Porte de Hal), in the Marolles district, is the place for you.

Bars

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Now you’re talking. Bars are where Brussels lives. It’s hard to be disappointed, whether you pop into a neighborhood watering hole where a chope or pintje (a glass of beer) will set you back a mere 2.50€, or whether you prefer to fork out several times as much in one of the trendier places. The following are only a few of the many Brussels pubs and bistros worthy of recommendation.

Brews from Brussels blend of young and aged lambic beers, is one of the least sweet. If you prefer something sweeter, try raspberry-flavored framboise or cherry-flavored kriek. Faro is a low-alcohol beer, sometimes sweetened or lightly spiced.

Brussels After Dark

A Brussels favorite, A la Mort Subite , rue Montagne aux Herbes Potagères 7 (& 02/513-13-18; Métro: Gare Centrale), is a bistro of rather special character whose name translates to “Sudden Death,” which is the name of one of the beers sold here. Don’t worry, the name is just a name—it comes from a dice game regulars used to play. The decor consists of stained-glass motifs, old photographs, paintings, and prints on the walls; and plain wood chairs and tables on the floor. Specialties are traditional Brussels beers: gueuze, lambic, faro, and kriek, and abbey brews like Chimay, Maredsous, and Grimbergen. In a quite different vein is La Fleur en Papier Doré , rue des Alexiens 55 (&02/511-16-59; Métro: Anneessens), in a 16thcentury house. From its beginnings in 1846, this bistro and pub has been a mecca for poets and writers. Even now, about once a month, young Brussels poets gather here informally for poetry readings—the dates vary, but you might inquire by phone or, better yet, drop by and ask in person. This is a wonderfully atmospheric old pub, much like a social club, where patrons gather for good conversation and welcome all newcomers. The place serves what is possibly the best onion soup in Brussels, a great late-night snack. The following are only a few of the many Brussels pubs and bistros worthy of recommendation. Au Bon Vieux Temps, impasse St-Michel, rue du Marché aux Herbes 12 (&02/217-26-26; Métro: Bourse), at the end of a narrow alleyway, is a gloomily atmospheric old tavern that seems to hearken back to a bygone era. You should try the appropriately named Duvel (Devil) beer here—just go easy, that’s all. Nearby, A l’Imaige Nostre-Dame, impasse des Cadeaux, rue du Marché aux Herbes 8 (&02/219-42-49; Métro: Bourse), is a good, quiet place to drink and reflect if you’re alone, or to converse with a friend without having to compete with a blaring jukebox. Le Cirio, rue de la Bourse 18 (&02/512-13-95; Métro: Bourse), is across the road from the Stock Exchange, and indeed many of the bar’s customers look like they’ve just made a killing on the stock market and have retired to a state of genteel splendor. And what better place to do it in? Le Cirio is a quiet, refined sort of place to sip your beer, in attractive surroundings that make the whole exercise seem worth, rue Henri while. On the other side of the Bourse (Stock Exchange), Falstaff Maus 19 (&02/511-87-89; Métro: Bourse), a legendary 1904 Art Nouveau tavern, has stunning decor, stained-glass scenes in the style of Pieter Bruegel the Elder depicting Shakespeare’s Falstaff tales, and reasonably priced brasserie food. Two blocks to the west, L’Archiduc , rue Antoine Dansaert 6 (& 02/512-06-52; Métro: Bourse), remains a font of local chic (and a purveyor of jazz; see above).

BRUSSELS

Brussels is known for its lambic beers, which use naturally occurring yeast for fermentation, are often flavored with fruit, and come in bottles with champagne-type corks. They’re almost akin to sweet sparkling wine. Gueuze, a

Gay & Lesbian Bars Rue des Riches-Claires and rue du Marché au Charbon host some gay and lesbian bars. Macho Sauna, rue du Marché au Charbon 106 (&02/513-56-67;

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Métro: Bourse), a block from rue des Riches-Claires, houses a gay men’s sauna, pool, steam room, and cafe. It’s open Monday to Thursday from noon to 2am, Friday and Saturday from noon to 4am, and Sunday from noon to midnight. Both the Fuse and You dance clubs (see above) have gay nights. For more information, stop by the gay and lesbian community center, Tels Quels, rue du Marché au Charbon 81 (& 02/512-45-87; www.telsquels.be; Métro: Bourse), open Saturday to Thursday from 5pm to 2am and Friday from 5pm to 4am. Or, on the same street, stop by the meeting rooms and cafe at La Maison Arc en Ciel, rue du Marché au Charbon 42 (& 02/503-59-90; www.rainbowhouse.be; Métro: Bourse).

Movies Since most movies in Brussels are shown in the original language, you’ll always be able to find many English-language films in the theaters. Major cinemas in the center city, several of them multiplexes, are: Actor’s Studio, Petite rue des Bouchers 16 (& 02/512-16-96; http://actorsstudio.cinenews.be; Métro: Bourse); Arenberg, Galerie de la Reine 26 (&02/512-80-63; www.arenberg.be; Métro: Gare Centrale); Aventure, Galerie du Centre 57, rue des Fripiers 17 (& 02/219-92-02; www. cinema-aventure.be; Métro: Bourse); UGC Toison d’Or, av. de la Toison d’Or 8 (&0900/10-440; www.ugc.be; Métro: Porte de Namur); and UGC De Brouckère, place de Brouckère 38 (& 0900/10-440; www.ugc.be; Métro: De Brouckère). Kinepolis, bd. du Centenaire 20 (&0900/00-555 or 02/474-26-03; www.kinepolis.com; Métro: Heysel), is the best equipped and the biggest, with 26 screens and an IMAX theater. Part of the Bruparck recreation complex beside the Atomium, Kinepolis is likely to have something for everyone. Most movies shown are big releases, usually from Hollywood, which is no doubt the main reason why the place is so popular. Nova, rue d’Arenberg 3 (& 02/511-24-77; www.nova-cinema.org; Métro: Gare Centrale), is an art-house cinema. The Musée du Cinema, rue Baron Horta 9 (& 02/507-83-70; Métro: Gare Centrale), at the Palais des Beaux-Arts (BOZAR), often features little-seen films from the past.

SIDE TRIPS FROM BRUSSELS The lovely Brabant countryside around Brussels offers scenic beauty and several sightseeing attractions well worth the short trip.

Waterloo 10km (6 miles) S of Brussels

The battle that ended Napoleon’s empire was fought on rolling farmland near Waterloo, just south of Brussels. On June 18, 1815, 72,000 British, Dutch, Belgian, and German troops, aided before the day’s end by around 40,000 Prussians, defeated the mighty Napoleon Bonaparte and his 76,000 French, leaving 40,000 dead and wounded on the field. Napoleon survived, but his attempt to rebuild his empire was crushed; he was exiled to the island of St. Helena, where he died 6 years later. The battlefield remains much as it was on that fateful day. To visit, though, you don’t go to the town of Waterloo, which is a pleasant suburb of Brussels—and the capital town of Brabant-Wallon (Walloon Brabant) province. The Battle of Waterloo 130

6 BRUSSELS Side Trips from Brussels

wasn’t fought there. A stretch of rolling farmland several miles to the south around Mont-St-Jean, speckled with stoutly constructed manor-farmhouses, got that “honor.” Before touring the field, you should study a 360-degree Panoramic Mural featuring the massed French cavalry charge led by Marshal Ney and see a short audiovisual presentation of the battle, including scenes from Sergei Bondarchuk’s epic movie , route du Lion 315, Waterloo, at the Centre du Visiteur (Visitor Center) Waterloo (& 02/385-19-12; www.waterloo1815.be). To survey the battlefield, climb the 226 steps to the top of the nearby Butte du Lion (Lion Mound), a conical hill surmounted by a bronze lion, behind the center—it takes an active imagination to fill the peaceful farmland with slashing cavalry charges, thundering artillery, and nearly 200,000 colorfully uniformed, struggling soldiers. Across the road from the Visitor Center is the Musée des Cires (Waxworks Museum), where Napoleon, Wellington, Blücher, and other key participants appear as wax figures. Draw rations from one of the cafes or restaurants, which have names like Le Hussard and Les Alliés. Souvenir stores sell everything from Napoleonic corkscrews to hand-painted model soldiers. Beside the crossroads at the Brussels-Charleroi road are monuments to the Belgians and Hanoverians; to Colonel Gordon, Wellington’s aide; and to General Picton, shot down at the head of his division. A little way down the Brussels-Charleroi road is La Haie–Sainte, a farmhouse that played a crucial role in Napoleon’s defeat by shielding Wellington’s center from direct assault. These four sites are open daily April to October from 9:30am to 6:30pm, and November to March from 10am to 5pm (closed Jan 1 and Dec 25). Admission to the Visitor Center is free; admission to its audiovisual presentation and the four on-site attractions is 8.70€ for adults, 6.50€ for seniors and students, 5.50€ for children 7 to 17, and free for children 6 and under. From Brussels, TEC bus W (Brussels–Waterloo–Braine-l’Alleud) departs twice hourly from Bruxelles-Midi train station (Métro: Gare du Midi). The 18km (11-mile) ride takes 55 minutes and costs 4.20€. The bus stops at both the Wellington Museum in Waterloo (see below) and at the battlefield Visitor Center, south of the town. By car from Brussels, take the ring road/beltway (R0) to exit 27 for Waterloo, and then N5 south to the battlefield. In Waterloo itself is the well-ordered Musée Wellington (Wellington Museum), chaussée de Bruxelles 147 (& 02/357-28-60; www.museewellington.com), in an old Brabant coaching inn that was the duke’s headquarters. It was from here that Wellington sent his historic victory dispatch. The museum is open April to September daily from 9:30am to 6:30pm, and October to March daily from 10am to 5pm (closed Jan 1 and Dec 25). Admission, which includes an audio guide (except for children 5 and under), is 5€ for adults, 4€ for seniors and students, 2€ for children 6 to 17, and free for children 5 and under.

Beersel 9km (51⁄2 miles) SW of Brussels

The only local example of a still-intact fortified medieval castle is Kasteel van Beersel , on Lotsestraat (& 02/359-16-46; www.historische-woonsteden.be). The three-towered, 13th-century castle is set in a wooded area and surrounded by a moat, which you cross via drawbridge. Pick up the excellent English-language guidebook at the entrance for a detailed history of the castle and its inhabitants, and then wander through its rooms for a trip back through time. End your visit with a stop at the magnificent mausoleum that holds the alabaster effigies of Henry II of Witthem and his wife, Jacqueline de Glimes, who lived here during the early 1400s. The castle is open 131

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An Adventure with Tintin Head to Louvain-la-Neuve, 27km (17 miles) southeast of Brussels, to visit the Musée Hergé, rue du Labrador 26 (&010/488-421; www.museeherge. com), which opened in 2009 to celebrate the œuvre of Tintin creator Georges Remi (1907–83), better known as Hergé. The museum is open Tuesday

to Friday from 10:30am to 5:30pm, and weekends from 10am to 6pm (closed Jan 1, Dec 25). Admission is 9.50€ for adults, 7€ for students and “large” family groups (per person), 5€ for children ages 7 to 14, and free for children 6 and under.

March to mid-November Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to noon and 2 to 6pm, and mid-November to February Saturday and Sunday from 10am to noon and 2 to 6pm. Admission is 2.50€ for adults, 1.25€ for seniors and children 5 to 12, free for children 4 and under, and 7.50€ for a family. Beersel station is a 40-minute train ride from Brussels; the castle is a walk of 400m (440 yd.) west of the train station. Leafy pathways through the castle grounds make this a favorite retreat for Brussels residents, especially during the summer months. At the entrance to the park, you find Auberge Kasteel Beersel, Lotsestraat 65 (&02/377-10-47; www.auberge-beersel.be), a charming rustic restaurant with a decor of dark wood, exposed brick, and accents of copper and brass. In good weather, there’s service on the shaded outdoor terrace. Light meals (omelets, salads, soups, and sandwiches) are available, and complete hot meals are offered for both lunch and dinner. Prices are moderate. If you don’t want a meal, you’re welcome to stop in for a draft of Belgian beer.

Gaasbeek 13km (8 miles) SW of Brussels

The ancestral château of the counts of Egmont is at Gaasbeek, beyond the village , Kasteelstraat 40 of Vlezenbeek. The furnishings of Kasteel van Gaasbeek (& 02/531-01-30; www.kasteelvangaasbeek.be), are magnificent, as is the castle itself. All the rooms are splendid, and far from presenting a dead “museum” appearance, they create the eerie impression that the counts and their families may come walking through the door any moment. Before each guided tour, a slide show augments your appreciation of the castle’s countless works of art, silver items, religious objects, and priceless tapestries. The castle is open April to early November Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 6pm; the park is open daily from 8am to 8pm (to 6pm Oct– Mar). Admission to the castle is 7€ for adults, 5€ for seniors and people with disabilities, 1€ for those ages 7 to 26, and free for children 6 and under. Admission to the park is free. To get there by car from Brussels, take the R0/E19 Brussels ring road west to exit 15A, for Vlezenbeek, and continue through this village to the castle; by public transportation, take De Lijn bus no. 142 (Gaasbeek-Leerbeek) from BruxellesMidi station, or from the end-of-the-line Métro station Erasmus, and get out at the Kasteel van Gaasbeek stop.

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raceful Bruges has drifted down the stream of time with all the self-possession of the swans that cruise its canals. To step into the old town is to be transported

back to the Middle Ages, when Bruges (Brugge in Dutch) was among the wealthiest cities of Europe. Unlike so many European cities that have had their hearts torn out by war, Bruges has remained unravaged, its glorious monumental buildings intact. UNESCO has awarded the entire historical city center World Cultural Heritage status.

The city (pop. 117,000, of whom 20,000 live in the Old Town) is the capital town of West-Vlaanderen (West Flanders) province, and the pride and joy of all Flanders. Medieval Gothic architecture is the big deal here. Oh, there’s a layer of Romanesque; a touch of Renaissance, baroque, and rococo; a dab of neoclassical and neo-Gothic; and a smidgeon of Art Nouveau and Art Deco. But Gothic is what Bruges does, in quantities that come near to numbing the senses—and likely would do so if it wasn’t for the distraction of the city’s contemporary animation. In the 15th century, Bruges was a center for the Hanseatic League and has a rich heritage of civic buildings from that period: guildhalls, exchanges, warehouses, and the residences of wealthy merchants.

ORIENTATION Arriving BY TRAIN Two trains arrive in Bruges every hour from Brussels, four or five from Ghent, two from Antwerp, and up to three every hour from the ferry ports of Zeebrugge and Ostend (Oostende). The travel time is around 1 hour from Brussels, 25 minutes from Ghent, 1 hour and 20 minutes from Antwerp, and 15 minutes from both Ostend and Zeebrugge. Train information is available from Belgian Railways (&02/528-28-28; www.b-rail.be). From London, passengers can ride the Eurostar high-speed trains through the Channel Tunnel and transfer for Bruges either at Lille in northern France or in Brussels. From Paris, Thalys high-speed trains go via Brussels direct to Bruges; on the slower and cheaper international trains, you transfer in Brussels. From Amsterdam, go via Antwerp or Brussels, either on Thalys or on international and InterCity (IC) trains. From Cologne, Thalys trains stop in Brussels, and international trains via Brussels to Ostend stop in Bruges.

folklore EVENTS IN BRUGES

BRUGES

Orientation

One of the most popular and colorful folklore events in Belgium is Bruges’s Heilig-Bloedprocessie (Procession of the Holy Blood) , which dates back to at least 1291 and takes place every year on Ascension Day (fifth Thurs after Easter). During the procession, the bishop of Bruges proceeds through the city streets carrying the golden shrine containing the Relic of the Holy Blood (see “The Burg,” later in this chapter). Residents wearing Burgundian-era and biblical costumes follow the relic, acting out biblical and historical scenes along the way. The procession takes place on June 2, 2011, and May 17, 2012. Every 3 years, the canals of Bruges are the subject and location of the

Reiefeest (Canal Festival) . This multi-day evening event takes place on 6 nonconsecutive days in August and is a combination of historical tableaux, dancing, open-air concerts, and lots of eating and drinking. The next Reiefeest is between August 15 and 31 in 2011. The Praalstoet van de Gouden Boom (Golden Tree Pageant) recalls the great procession and tournament held on the Markt to celebrate the 1468 marriage of duke of Burgundy Charles the Bold to Margaret of York. It takes place every 5 years in the second half of August; the next one will be on August 19, 2012.

Although the city is called Bruges in both English and French, look out for its Flemish name, brugge, written on the station name boards. The station is on Stationsplein, 1.6km (1 mile) south of the center of town, a 20-minute walk or a short taxi or bus ride—choose any bus labeled centrum and get out at the Markt.

BY BUS Buses are less useful than trains for getting to Bruges, though there is frequent service from Zeebrugge, Ostend, and other Belgian seacoast resorts. The Bruges bus station adjoins the rail station. Schedule and fare information is available from De Lijn (&070/22-02-00; www.delijn.be). Eurolines (see “By Bus” under “Getting to the Benelux,” in chapter 3) operates daily bus service from London, Amsterdam, Paris, Cologne, and other cities around Europe, to Brussels or Bruges, or to both.

BY CAR Bruges is 92km (57 miles) northwest of Brussels and 51km (32 miles) northwest of Ghent on A10/E40; 102km (63 miles) west of Antwerp on A14/E17 and A10/E40; 16km (10 miles) south of the ferry port of Zeebrugge on N31 and N371; and 30km (19 miles) southeast of Ostend on A10/E40. From Calais, France, and the Channel Tunnel, take E40 east.

Visitor Information Bruges’s tourist office’s mailing address and contact information is Toerisme Brugge, P.O. Box 744, 8000 Brugge (& 050/44-46-46; fax 050/44-46-45; www. brugge.be). The organization’s walk-in office is In&Uit Brugge, Concertgebouw, ’t Zand 34, inside the city’s Concert Hall, about midway between the rail station and the heart of town. The office is open daily from 10am to 6pm (closed Jan 1 and Dec 25). The efficient staffers here can make last-minute hotel reservations and provide 134

brochures that outline walking, coach, canal, and horse-drawn carriage tours. Ask for the free annual events@brugge brochure and monthly Exit newsletter; both are directories of current goings-on.

City Layout

7 BRUGES Getting Around

You could liken Bruges’s Old Town to a circular archery target outlined by the ring canal, with two bull’s-eyes representing the side-by-side monumental squares called the Markt and the Burg. Beyond these central points are other more or less concentric circles of places of interest, and these attractions are generally thicker on the ground the closer in to the center of town you are, and more spread out as you move through a network of narrow streets that fan out from the two squares. The ring canal opens at its southern end to become the Minnewater (Lake of Love), filled with swans and other water birds and bordered by the Begijnhof and a fine park. Beyond the southern rim of the Minnewater is the rail station. Outside the ring canal are residential neighborhoods—they were formerly separate gemeenten (districts) with their own local government and not part of Bruges at all. These districts have relatively few points of interest when compared to the attractions-packed center, so the likelihood is you won’t see much of them on your visit.

GETTING AROUND The center of Bruges is compact and filled with pedestrians-only streets, which makes walking the best way to get around. Just be sure to wear comfortable shoes; those charming cobblestones can be hard on your feet.

By Bus Most city and regional buses, operated by De Lijn (&070/22-02-00; www.delijn. be), depart from the bus station beside the train station, or from a secondary station at a large square known as ’t Zand, and many buses stop at the Markt in the Old Town. Purchase your ticket from a De Lijn sales point or automat (ticket machine) before boarding and you’ll pay less (the “twin” prices listed here reflect this distinction). An enkele rit (one-way) ticket costs 1.20€/2€ for two zones and 2€/3€ for three or more zones. A dagkaart (day card), valid for the entire city network, costs 5€/6€ for 1 day; 10€/12€ for 3 days; and 15€/18€ for 5 days. A 1-day pass for children 6 to 11 is 1.50€/2€, and children 5 and under ride free.

By Bicycle Cycling is a terrific way to get around Bruges, or to get out of town to the nearby village of Damme (see “A Side Trip to Damme,” later in this chapter) by way of scenic canal-side roads. Unlike most Belgian cities, Bruges has made cyclists privileged road users. They can travel in both directions on many of the narrow, one-way streets in the center city—but some streets are one-way only, and you’ll be fined if you’re caught riding against the traffic flow. Ride with caution, because the streets are filled with visitors, many of whom have no experience of bikes en masse and are liable to step in front of you without looking. Rent a pedal-bike from the rail station, for 9.50€ per day plus a returnable guarantee of 13€. In addition, many hotels rent bikes to guests, and there are at least a dozen rental stores around town. A good rental store is De Ketting, Gentpoortstraat 23 (&050/34-41-96; www.deketting.be), which has bikes for 6€ a day. 135

By Car

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Fast Facts: Bruges

Don’t drive. Leave your car at your hotel parking garage (if it has one); one of six big, prominently labeled underground parking garages in the center (these get expensive for long stays); one of four cheap park-and-ride lots next to the train station; or a free parking zone outside the city center. It’s a short walk into the heart of the Old Town from any of the parking lots. Driving the narrow streets, many of them one-way, can be confusing. Parking rules are firmly enforced, and unlawfully parked cars will be ticketed, wheel-clamped, or towed.

By Taxi There are taxi stands at the Markt (&050/33-44-44) and outside the rail station on Stationsplein (&050/38-46-60).

BRUGES Currency Exchange The tourist office (see “Visitor Information,” above) is a good place to change money and traveler’s checks, as are banks. ATMs can be found around the Markt and at numerous other points in the city center.

Doctors For a doctor on night and weekend duty, call & 078/15-15-90. Emergencies For the police, dial & 101; for firefighters and ambulance, call & 100. Hospital Bruges’s main hospital is the AZ Sint-Jan, Ruddershove 10 (& 050/ 45-21-11; www.azbrugge.be).

Mail The main post office, Markt 5 (& 050/33-14-11),

is open Monday to Friday from 9am to 6pm and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Pharmacies A pharmacy is an apotheek in Dutch. Regular pharmacy hours are Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm (some close earlier on Sat). Try Steve Baert, Wollestraat 7 (& 050/33-64-74), just south of the Markt. All pharmacies have details of the nearby all-night and Sunday pharmacies posted on the door.

Police (Politie) In an emergency, call & 101. In non-urgent situations, go to the Central Police Station, Hauwerstraat 3 (& 050/44-88-44). Bruges police officers are

likely to be both professional and helpful to visitors with problems, and you’re almost sure to be attended to by an officer who speaks English.

Restrooms The finest place to find relief in the center of Bruges has to be the Crown Plaza Brugge Hotel, on the Burg. There are tolerable public restrooms on the west side of the Minnewater lake, close to the Begijnhof.

Safety Bruges is safe, and there are no areas you need be leery of going into. That said, since it’s a big tourist center, it can’t hurt to take routine precautions against pickpocketing and other types of theft.

WHERE TO STAY If a high-rise luxury hotel is your cup of tea, I suggest you stay in Brussels and commute to Bruges. But if you like the idea of small, atmospheric accommodations, perhaps on the banks of a picturesque canal, with modern (and in some places, luxurious) facilities, opt for one of the places reviewed below. Try to arrive with a reservation. Considering the four million visitors it welcomes each year, Bruges is Belgium’s premier tourist destination. Even though many visitors are day-trippers, it’s essential to make your hotel reservations at least 2 weeks in advance if you plan to stay 136

overnight. Having said that, if you do come into town without a place to stay, head immediately to the tourist office, which has a last-minute reservation service. Accommodations are more likely to be full on weekends. Note that where hotels have no private parking, there’s another option beyond the “limited street parking” that might be listed in the service information. Bruges’s small city center holds six large public parking garages, all clearly marked on access roads. There will always be at least one within a short walk of your hotel.

Steenhouwersdijk 1 (across the canal from the Burg), 8000 Brugge. &050/34-27-98. Fax 050/3366-74. www.dieswaene-hotel.com. 32 units. 195€–295€ double; 360€–480€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. Bus: 6 or 16 to Vismarkt. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; heated indoor pool; sauna; Wi-Fi in lobby (free). In room: A/C (some rooms), TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Where to Stay

This small hotel on the beautiful Groenerei canal in the center city has rightly been called one of the most romantic in Europe. The rooms are elegantly and individually furnished, and the lounge, from 1779, was formerly the Guildhall of the Tailors. You might be expected to lodge in an annex, across the canal, where the rooms are luxurious enough but not so convenient—you have to recross the canal to take advantage of the main building’s amenities, for instance. The seafood and regional cuisine at the in-house restaurant Wine&Dine Pergola Kaffee has deservedly earned favorable reviews from guests and food critics alike.

Die Swaene

BRUGES

Expensive

On a side street just off Bruges’s handsome central canal, this hotel in a restored 18th-century mansion is an oasis of tranquillity, surrounded by plane trees and built around a courtyard garden with a fountain. Although it provides modern conveniences, its exquisite, old-fashioned furnishings lend special grace to rooms that (except for the suites) may be a little small for some tastes, though that’s not unusual for old buildings in Bruges. Guests praise Mrs. Chris Vanhaecke-Dewaele for her hospitality and attention to detail. The suites each have a whirlpool bath.

The Pand Hotel

Pandreitje 16 (across the canal from the Burg), 8000 Brugge. &050/34-06-66. Fax 050/34-05-56. www.pandhotel.com. 26 units. 185€–363€ double; 279€–443€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 24€. Bus: 1 or 6 to Vismarkt. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; concierge; access to nearby health club; room service; sauna. Inroom: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate The Egmond has just eight rooms, in a rambling mansion next to the Minnewater Park, but the lucky few who stay here will find ample space, plenty of family ambience, abundant local color, and lots of peace. All rooms have been redecorated recently and are furnished in individual styles with views of the garden and the Minnewater Park. Every afternoon, free coffee and tea are served on the garden terrace or in the lounge, which has an 18th-century fireplace. There’s an “honesty bar,” where you help yourself to a drink and leave payment. Some rooms have air-conditioning.

Egmond

Minnewater 15 (at Minnewater Park), 8000 Brugge. & 050/34-14-45. Fax 050/34-29-40. www. egmond.be. 8 units. 98€–140€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC, V. Parking 10€. Bus: 1 to Begijnhof. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

A short walk from the Markt in a mansion dating from 1869, the Heritage has a well-established reputation. Its rooms are not overly big, but they are warmly furnished and decorated. Everything has been upgraded here in recent years

Heritage

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BRUGES

Where to Stay

in a classic French and Italian style, with individual coordinated color schemes in blue, lime, brown, and boudoir red. At the risk of seeming sexist, they have lots of feminine touches—plush elegance without a sign of stuffiness, manorial without the shooting-trophy baggage that often goes with that. The staff are friendly and the ambience welcoming. In the breakfast room is an ornamental ceiling that’s a reminder of the building’s respectable origins. Niklaas Desparsstraat 11 (off Vlamingstraat), 8000 Brugge. & 050/44-44-44. Fax 050/44-44-40. www.hotel-heritage.com. 20 units. 167€–265€ double; 375€–451€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 21€. Bus: 3 or 13 to Kipstraat. Amenities: Lounge; exercise room; sauna. Inroom: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Martin’s Relais Oud-Huis Amsterdam A fine hotel has been carved out of four canal-side buildings, parts of which date back to the 1300s. Rooms are large and sumptuously furnished. The colors and decorative accents hearken back to the building’s origins, based on meticulous research and restoration. Some of the bathrooms have whirlpool tubs. The elegant guest rooms in the front overlook the canal; those in back overlook the garden and picturesque rooftops. In the rear, there’s a charming little courtyard with umbrella tables and a garden off to one side—the setting for Sunday concerts in June. Genthof 4A (at Spiegelrei), 8000 Brugge. &050/34-18-10. Fax 050/33-88-91. www.martins-hotels. be. 44 units. 149€–181€ double; 328€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. Bus: 4, 14, or 43 to Jan van Eyckplein. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; room service. Inroom: A/C (some rooms), TV, hair dryer, high-speed Internet.

This ultramodern brick hotel set alongside a lovely canal artfully combines old Bruges style with modern amenities and fittings. Its spacious guest rooms are restfully decorated in cool colors that accent blue and yellow in the bed covers, sofa covers, cushions, and other fabrics, alongside relatively plain brown furnishings. The hotel is a short walk west from the city center, and most rooms have a view of the canal at Coupure.

Rosenburg

Coupure 30 (at Schaarstraat), 8000 Brugge. &050/34-01-94. Fax 050/34-35-39. www.rosenburg. be. 27 units. 110€–170€ double; 200€–350€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Bus: 6 or 16 to Schaarstraat. Amenities: Bar; lounge; room service. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (15€/stay).

Ter Duinen Here’s an ideal marriage of classical style and modern conveniences. Proprietors Marc and Lieve Bossu-Van Den Heuvel take justified pride in their charming hotel and extend a friendly welcome to guests. Brightly decorated guest rooms are ample in size and have modern furnishings. Some rooms have wooden ceiling beams, and some have a great view overlooking the tranquil Langerei canal, just north of the town center and within easy walking distance. The most expensive rooms have canal views. Langerei 52 (at Kleine Nieuwstraat), 8000 Brugge. & 050/33-04-37. Fax 050/34-24-55. www.ter duinenhotel.eu. 20 units. 130€–159€ double; 175€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Bus: 4, 14, or 43 to J&M Sabbestraat. Amenities: Lounge. Inroom: A/C (some rooms), TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive Fevery Don’t be put off by the name: It’s pronounced fay-ver-ee, not fever-y as in “feverish.” This family-owned hotel is on a side street in a quiet part of town, facing the Sint-Gilliskerk (St. Giles’s Church), a short walk north of the center city. The modern and comfortably furnished guest rooms are cheery and immaculate, with new 140

bathrooms and monogrammed pressed sheets. One room is a quad. There’s a downstairs lounge and breakfast room. The proprietor, Mr. Asselman, has a wealth of local information and clearly takes great pride in his establishment. In 2009, his hotel was the first in Bruges to be awarded a “Green Key” for its sustainable practices. Collaert Mansionstraat 3 (off Langerei), 8000 Brugge. & 050/33-12-69. Fax 050/33-17-91. www. hotelfevery.be. 12 units. 50€–90€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC, V. Parking 8€–10€. Bus: 4, 14, or 43 to Snaggaardbrug. Amenities: Lounge; bikes. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Despite being one of the least expensive hotels in Bruges, ’t Keizershof gets high marks for having clean, comfortable accommodations in a quiet, peaceful location. The couple who own and operate this hotel speak several languages and are very helpful to guests planning their stay in Bruges. I like the subtle encouragements they give to potential guests, including one slogan that goes: “When you are sleeping, we look just like one of those big fancy hotels.”

’t Keizershof

Where to Dine

Naaldenstraat 30 (off Kuipersstraat), 8000 Brugge. &050/34-20-67. Fax 050/33-34-64. www.hotel lucca.be. 19 units, 14 with bathroom. 53€ double without bathroom; 68€–88€ double with bathroom. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Bus: 3 or 13 to Normaalschool. Inroom: TV (some rooms).

BRUGES

Lucca Built in the 14th century by a wealthy merchant from Lucca, Italy, this mansion right in the heart of romantic Bruges has high ceilings and wide halls that convey a sense of luxury. The welcome is warm, and the guest rooms are in fair condition and sport pine furnishings. Rooms with bathrooms have TVs. Breakfast is served in a cozy medieval cellar decorated with antiques.

Oostmeers 126 (across from the rail station), 8000 Brugge. &050/33-87-28. www.hotelkeizershof.be. 7 units, none with bathroom. 44€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. No credit cards. Free parking. All buses to Bruges station. Inroom: No phone.

WHERE TO DINE Half of Bruges seems like one big museum, another half seems like one big drinkery, and yet another half (yes, I know, that’s a half too many) seems like one big eatery. You’ll be practically tripping over restaurants within the central zone. Pretty much all of them are tourist-orientated to one degree or other; it would be hard to be otherwise, considering the throngs of visitors. The Markt and the streets leading off this central square (though not the adjacent Burg) are the happiest hunting grounds. Close to the Vismarkt (Fish Market), Pandreitje and Huidenvettersplein have decent choices; so, too, do Simon Stevinplein and Katelijnestraat, near Sint-Salvatorskathedraal and Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk, respectively. North of the Markt, Academiestraat and Jan van Eyckplein are good bets. The least touristy restaurants and local bars with eats generally are to be found out toward the ring canal and beyond this moat. They’re thin on the ground.

Very Expensive De Karmeliet BELGIAN/FRENCH In 1996, chef Geert van Hecke became the first Flemish chef to be awarded three Michelin stars. He has described his award-winning menu as “international cuisine made with local products” that aims to combine French quality with Flemish quantity. A good example of this is van Hecke’s deceptively plain-sounding common Zeebrugge sole served with North Sea shrimps. The result is outstanding fine cuisine dished out in an elegant setting. You’ll 141

find the local Oud Brugge cheese both as an ingredient and on the cheese board, and some sauces are made using Belgian jenever (gin) and Belgian beers. Langestraat 19 (off Hoogstraat). &050/33-82-59. www.dekarmeliet.be. Reservations required. Main courses 55€–75€; fixed-price menus 80€–180€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–2pm and 7–9:30pm; Sun 7–9:30pm. Bus: 6 or 16.

BRUGES

Where to Dine

7 Expensive De Florentijnen CONTINENTAL It’s a fair bet that the Renaissance-era Florentine merchants who once stayed here wouldn’t recognize their gabled old house. It now houses this sophisticated restaurant, a dazzlingly white confection in which shades are a useful accessory. The menu is more than a little showy, with items like a 50g (1.7 oz.) dollop of caviar starter that costs more than twice the most expensive main course, and Barents Sea king crabs. Still, most dishes live up to both their billing and their tab. The price of some added-cost fixed-price menus, with enough wine and liquor to breach the legal driving limit, includes complementary limo pickup and an arranged but noncomplementary taxi for the return ride. Academiestraat 1 (at Vlamingstraat). & 050/67-75-33. www.deflorentijnen.be. Main courses 34€– 63€; fixed-price lunch 24€, dinner 39€–65€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–2pm and 7–9:30pm; Sun 7–9:30pm. Bus: 3 or 13.

De Visscherie SEAFOOD Deservedly much-admired, “The Fishery” couldn’t be closer to a supply of its prime ingredient: It’s just steps from Bruges’s Vismarkt (Fish Market), in the center of town. Specialties here include a delicious lobster stew, “fruits of the sea” (shellfish in many guises; try the spotted scallops with roe), and Channel sole. Inside, white-gloved waiters pad around the soft chairs on a stone floor, amid a restful pastel-orange and brown color scheme. When a chilly Flanders winter howls beyond the windows, you can warm your spirits at the open fire. Outside on the square, a sidewalk terrace with wicker chairs soaks up both the sun and Fish Market ambience in good weather. Vismarkt 8 (at Steenhouwersdijk). &050/33-02-12. www.visscherie.be. Main courses 32€–53€; fixedprice lunch 35€, dinner 78€. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Mon noon–2pm and 7–10pm. Bus: All buses to Markt.

FRENCH/BELGIAN This restaurant sits in the shade of the medieval Market Hall’s bell tower, just off the Rozenhoedkaai, one of the most beautiful canalsides in Bruges. The interior of this Renaissance-era private home has been turned into an elegant Louis XVI setting for a menu of classic dishes. The four-course a la carte meal is superb, and the menu of preselected choices is excellent. Try the sea bass served with fennel, parsley sauce, and sautéed potatoes, or the salad of Dublin Bay prawns with artichoke and a truffle vinaigrette.

’t Pandreitje

Pandreitje 6 (off Rozenhoedkaai). &050/33-11-90. www.pandreitje.be. Reservations required. Main courses 35€–48€; fixed-price menus 75€–95€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Tues and Thurs–Sat noon–2pm and 7–9:30pm. Bus: 1, 6, 11, or 16.

Moderate Bhavani INDIAN For a change from traditional Belgian food, try the better of Bruges’s pair of traditional Indian restaurants. It’s a consistently fine performer across a wide range of subcontinental cuisine—thali (a sampling platter), tandoori, curry, vegetarian, and seafood—without being exactly outstanding in any category. You shouldn’t have to count your rupees too closely, and the set meals are a good value. The chicken tikka Maharaja is a good bet, as is the vegetarian thali. A mix of coziness, 142

colonial atmosphere, Indian music, and exotic charm marks a setting that gives traditional Indian motifs a modern slant. There’s a menu for kids who can’t handle spicy Indian food. Simon Stevinplein 5 (off of Oude Burg). &050/33-90-25. www.bhavani.be. Main courses 16€–25€; fixed-price menus 19€–27€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 4:30pm–12:30am. Bus: 6, 12, or 14.

Central FLEMISH The medieval Markt square is such a romantic setting for a meal that few visitors can resist it. Central has both outdoor dining and a glassed-in room that overlooks the square. You can’t go too far wrong with the basic Flemish steak-frites (steak with fries), but this restaurant does the regional cuisine more justice with a fine range of mussels dishes, and other seafood offerings like a tasty North Sea bouillabaisse, the sole à l’Ostendaise (Ostend sole), and lobster.

Where to Dine

Breidelstraat 24 (between the Markt and the Burg). &050/33-97-46. Main courses 10€–21€; fixedprice menus 16€–36€. AE, MC, V. Thurs–Tues noon–3pm and 6–9:30pm. Bus: All buses to Markt.

7 BRUGES

Breydel-De Coninc SEAFOOD An aquarium of tropical fish at the entrance sets a marine mood in this seafood restaurant just off the Markt. The wood-beam ceilings and plaid upholstery are cheerful, but the real attraction is the seafood. The specialties here are mussels, eels, and lobsters prepared with white wine, cream, or garlic sauces that enhance the flavor of the seafood without overwhelming it. Try a pail full of plain mussels, or go for something with a little more zest, like the moules Provençal (mussels in a light red sauce with mushrooms, peppers, and onions). The homemade ice cream with caramel sauce is a good way to wind up any meal.

Markt 31 (in the Central Hotel). & 050/33-18-05. www.restaurantcentral.be. Main courses 12€–32€; fixed-price menu 14€–32€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm. Bus: All buses to Markt.

’t Huidevettershuis FLEMISH/SEAFOOD This charmer, right on a canal in the town center, is in a stone building dating from 1630 with flowers blooming in diamond-paned windows. It used to be the Ambachtshuis der Huidevetters (Tanners’ Guild House) and now houses a cozy, intimate room downstairs and a pleasant, larger one upstairs. Look for Flemish specialties such as the souplike waterzooï (with chicken), in addition to ham, rabbit, and herring dishes. Huidenvettersplein 10–11 (at Rozenhoedkaai). & 050/33-95-06. www.huidevettershuis.be. Main courses 22€–48€; fixed-price lunch 20€, dinner 29€. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Mon noon–2pm and 6–10pm. Bus: All buses to Markt.

Inexpensive FLEMISH Small but popular, this is a great stop after viewing the cathedral and nearby museums. It serves a large variety of Flemish dishes, all prepared with beer. Try the typically Flemish souplike stew dish waterzooï, which is served with fish here, as it’s supposed to be—although they also make it with chicken instead, a style that has become the norm elsewhere. If that doesn’t grab you, how about lapin à la bière (rabbit in a beer sauce)? More than 200 different brands of Belgian beer are available (for drinking, that is), 16 of them on tap.

Brasserie Erasmus

Wollestraat 35 (in the Hotel Erasmus, off the Markt). &050/33-57-81. www.hotelerasmus.com. Main courses 15€–25€; fixed-price menus 35€–43€. MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–4pm (also Mon in summer) and 6–11pm. Bus: All buses to Markt.

VEGETARIAN Even nonvegetarians likely will enjoy the delicious lunch here. There are just two menu options—but at least you get to choose from a small, medium, or large serving—each with a hearty assortment of imaginatively prepared

Lotus

143

vegetables, served in a tranquil but cheery Scandinavian-style dining room. Locally sourced organic produce is used as much as possible. There’s a small but decent selection of Belgian beers to accompany your meal—look out for the relatively rare unfiltered Poperings Hommelbier from the West Flanders region around Ypres (Ieper).

BRUGES

Seeing the Sights

Wapenmakersstraat 5 (off the Burg). & 050/33-10-78. www.lotus-brugge.be. Fixed-price lunch 9€–12€. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 11:45am–2pm. Bus: All buses to Markt.

SEEING THE SIGHTS A leading contender for the title of Europe’s most romantic small city, Bruges is really one big attraction—a fairy-tale mixture of gabled houses, meandering canals, magnificent squares, and narrow cobblestone streets. Perhaps the most astonishing thing is the consistently warm welcome its residents provide to the swarms of visitors. The basis for this is more than mere economics—those who live in Bruges love their city and appreciate that others want to experience it.

The Markt Heraldic banners float from venerable facades on the Markt. This square, along with the Burg (see below), is the heart of Bruges and the focal point of your sightseeing. Most major points of interest in the city are little more than 5 or 10 minutes’ walk away. Bruggemuseum-Belfort (Belfry) The Belfry was, and is, the symbol of Bruges’s civic pride. What poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow in 1856 called “the beautiful, wild chimes” of its magnificent 47-bell carillon peal out over the city every quarter-hour, and several times a day in longer concerts during the summer. The tower stands 83m (272 ft.) high. Its lower section dates from around 1240, with the corner turrets added in the 14th century and the upper, octagonal section in the 15th century. Climb the 366 steep steps to the Belfry’s summit for panoramic views of Bruges and the surrounding countryside all the way to the sea. Pause for breath at the second-floor Treasury, where the town seal and charters were kept behind multiple wrought-iron grilles. From the 13th to the 16th century, much of the city’s commerce was conducted in the Hallen (Market Halls), below the Belfry. A consortium of local art dealers now uses the Hallen as a space for exhibits. Note: The Belfry is under renovation until summer 2011, and views are obscured until then. Markt. &050/44-87-11. Admission 8€ adults, 6€ seniors, 4€ ages 6–25, free for children 5 and under. Daily 9:30am–5pm. Closed Jan 1, Ascension Day afternoon, and Dec 25.

OTHER SIGHTS AROUND THE MARKT The sculpture group in the center of the Markt depicts a pair of Flemish heroes, butcher Jan Breydel and weaver Pieter de Coninck. The two led an uprising in 1302 against the wealthy merchants and nobles who dominated the guilds, and went on to win an against-the-odds victory over French knights later that same year in the Battle of the Golden Spurs. The small, castlelike building called the Craenenburg (it’s now a restaurant), at the corner of Sint-Amandsstraat, was used by a rebellious citizenry to imprison the Habsburg Crown Prince and future Emperor Maximilian of Austria in 1488 over a small matter of increased taxes. In revenge for that humiliation, Maximilian later wounded Bruges’s pride by transferring his capital to Ghent and hit the city’s pocketbook by transferring its trading rights to Antwerp. The large neo-Gothic 144

Swans Forever swan, and for this crime, Maximilian exacted a “penalty” from the citizens that has added a note of pure beauty to the city ever since: He obliged them to keep swans on the canals forever.

Provinciaal Hof (Provincial Palace) dates from the 1800s and houses the government of the province of West Flanders.

The Burg, a public square just steps away from the Markt, holds an array of beautiful buildings, which together add up to a kind of trip through the history of European architecture. On this site, Baldwin Iron Arm, count of Flanders, once built a fortified castle (or “burg”), around which a village developed into Bruges. Basiliek van het Heilig-Bloed (Basilica of the Holy Blood) A 12thcentury Romanesque basilica with a Gothic upper floor, this church houses a venerated relic of Christ and is well worth a visit for the richness of its design and its other treasures. It is the repository of a fragment of cloth stained with what is said to be the blood of Christ, wiped from his body after the crucifixion by Joseph of Arimathea. Legend says the relic was brought to Bruges at the time of the Second Crusade by Count of Flanders Diederik van de Elzas, who received it from the patriarch of Jerusalem and donated it to the church in 1150. More likely, it arrived later from the Byzantine capital Constantinople, which in 1204 was sacked by the Crusader army of Count of Flanders Baldwin IX. The relic is embedded in a rock-crystal vial, which itself is held inside a small glass cylinder adorned at each end with a golden crown. Normally the relic is kept in a magnificent tabernacle on a side altar in the upstairs chapel, but it is brought out regularly so the faithful can kiss it. In the Basilica Museum, a reliquary created in 1617 by Bruges goldsmith Jan Crabbe has a gem-encrusted hexagonal case to hold the relic, and at the top a golden statue of the Virgin. A second reliquary, dating from 1612, with a lid from 1716, is silver with a golden flower garland added in 1890. Every year, in the colorful Procession of the Holy Blood, on Ascension Day, the bishop of Bruges leads the relic through the streets, accompanied by costumed residents acting out biblical scenes.

Seeing the Sights

The Burg

7 BRUGES

In addition to locking up the heir to the Habsburg throne, Bruges’s vexed 15thcentury taxpayers removed the head of his counselor Pieter Lanchals, who had argued for the tax increase in the first place. Lanchals’s family emblem was a

Burg 10. & 050/33-67-92. www.holyblood.com. Admission: basilica free; museum 1.50€ adults, 1€ children 5–18, free for children 4 and under. Apr–Sept daily 9:30am–noon and Thurs–Tues 2–6pm; Oct–Mar daily 10am–noon and Thurs–Tues 2–4pm. Museum closed Jan 1, Nov 1, and Dec 25.

Bruggemuseum-Brugse Vrije (Liberty of Bruges) Dating in part from a rebuilding that took place between 1722 and 1727 and in part from earlier periods, the Landhuis (Palace) of the Liberty of Bruges was the seat of a district of the county of Flanders around Bruges from the Middle Ages onward. The palace later became a courthouse and now houses the city archives. Inside, at no. 11A, is the Renais, the council chamber, which has been restored sancezaal (Renaissance Hall) to its original 16th-century condition. The hall has a superb black marble fireplace 145

What to See & Do in Bruges

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Size Isn’t Everything

BRUGES

Seeing the Sights

Here’s your chance to compare codpieces . . . ahem, I mean, to admire the finely carved suits of armor of the statues of Emperor Charles V, Emperor

Maximilian of Austria, and King Ferdinand II of Aragon on the chimney piece in the Hall of the Liberty of Bruges. (I say Charles’s is the biggest.)

decorated with an alabaster frieze and topped by an oak chimneypiece carved with statues of Emperor Charles V, who visited Bruges in 1515, and his grandparents: Emperor Maximilian of Austria, Duchess Mary of Burgundy, King Ferdinand II of Aragon, and Queen Isabella I of Castile. Burg 11. &050/44-87-11. Admission: courtyard free; Renaissance Hall 2€ adults, 1€ seniors and ages 6–25, free for children 5 and under. Daily 9:30am–12:30pm and 1:30–5pm. Closed Jan 1, Ascension Day afternoon, and Dec 25.

Bruggemuseum-Stadhuis (Town Hall) This Gothic structure was built in the late 1300s, making it the oldest Town Hall in Belgium. Don’t miss the upstairs with its ornate decor and wall murals depictGotische Zaal (Gothic Room) ing highlights from Bruges’s history. Most spectacular of all is the vaulted oak ceiling, dating from 1402, which features scenes from the New Testament. The statues in the niches on the Town Hall facade are 1980s replacements of the originals, which had been painted by Jan van Eyck and were destroyed by pro-French rebels in the 1790s. Burg 12. &050/44-87-11. Admission 2€ adults, 1€ seniors and ages 6–25, free for children 5 and under. Daily 9:30am–5pm. Closed Jan 1, Ascension Day afternoon, and Dec 25.

OTHER SIGHTS AROUND THE BURG The Oude Civiele Griffie (Old Civic Registry), built beside the Town Hall as the offices of the town clerk, has the oldest Renaissance facade in the city, dating from 1537, and now houses the city archives. Facing the Town Hall is the baroque Proosdij (Provost’s House), dating from 1666, which used to be the residence of the bishop of Bruges and is now occupied by government offices of West Flanders province.

Top Museums & Attractions The Groeninge ranks among Belgium’s leading traditional museums of fine arts, with a collection that covers painting in the Low Countries from the 15th to the 20th centuries. The Gallery of Flemish Primitives holds some 30 works—many of which are far from primitive—by painters such as Jan van Eyck, Rogier van der Weyden, Hieronymus Bosch (The Last Judgment), and Hans Memling. Works by Magritte and Delvaux also are on display. Among works by van Eyck in the museum are his beautiful altarpiece The Madonna and Child with Canon Joris van der Paele (1436), in which the Flemish cardinal is being presented to the Virgin Mary and the infant Jesus, and a portrait of van Eyck’s wife created in 1439. In addition, Sint-Salvatorskathedraal (see below) has given the museum for permanent safekeeping its magnificent Martyrdom of St. Hippolytus altarpiece by Dirk Bouts, with a side panel by Hugo van der Goes. Note: Due to limited space, the exhibits on display rotate and may not reflect exactly what is listed in this review. Groeningemuseum

Dijver 12. &050/44-87-11. Admission (combined ticket with neighboring Arentshuis) 8€ adults, 6€ seniors, 1€ ages 6–25, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sun 9:30am–5pm (also Easter Mon and Pentecost Mon). Closed Jan 1, Ascension Day afternoon, and Dec 25.

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Bruggemuseum-Gruuthuse The Flemish nobleman and herb merchant Lodewijk van Gruuthuse, who was a counselor to the dukes of Burgundy in the 1400s, lived in this ornate Gothic mansion. Among the 2,500 numbered antiquities in the house are paintings, sculptures, tapestries, lace, weapons, glassware, and richly carved furniture. Dijver 17 (in a courtyard next to the Groeningemuseum). &050/44-87-11. Admission 6€ adults, 5€ seniors, 1€ ages 6–25, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sun 9:30am–5pm (also Easter Mon and Pentecost Mon). Closed Jan 1, Ascension Day afternoon, and Dec 25.

Seeing the Sights

Balstraat 43 (at Rolweg). &050/44-87-11. Admission 2€ adults, 1€ seniors and ages 6–25, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sun 9:30am–5pm (also Easter Mon and Pentecost Mon). Closed Jan 1, Ascension Day afternoon, and Dec 25. Bus: 6 to Kruispoort.

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Bruggemuseum-Volkskunde (Folklore Museum) Housed in the low whitewashed houses of the former Shoemakers Guild Almshouse, the Folklore Museum aims to recreate life in Bruges in times gone by. Exhibits depict a primary school class, a cooper’s and a milliner’s workshop, a spice store and a candy store, and everyday household scenes. A new emphasis is on the history of the important regional textile industry. Most refreshing of all is an old inn, De Zwarte Kat (the Black Cat), which has real beer on tap. In summer, children and adults can play traditional games in the garden.

This combination workshop, museum, and salesroom is where the ancient art of lace making is passed on to the next generation. You’ll get a firsthand look at the artisans making many of the items for future sale in all those lace stores. Your ticket is valid also in the neighboring Jeruzalemkerk (Jerusalem Church; see “More Churches,” below).

Kantcentrum (Lace Center)

Peperstraat 3A (at Jeruzalemstraat). & 050/33-00-72. www.kantcentrum.eu. Admission 2.50€ adults; 1.50€ seniors, students, and children 7–12; free for children 6 and under. Mon–Fri 10am–noon and 2–6pm; Sat 10am–noon and 2–5pm. Closed national holidays. Bus: 6 or 16 to Langestraat.

This museum is housed in the former Sint-Janshospitaal (Hospital of St. John), where the earliest wards date from the 13th century. To get a sense of the vastness of the wards when this was a functioning hospital, take a look at the old painting near the entrance that shows small, efficient bed units set into cubicles along the walls. The 17th-century apothecary in the cloisters near the entrance is furnished exactly as it was when this building’s main function was to care for the sick. Nowadays visitors come to see the typical medieval hospital buildings filled with furniture and other objects that illustrate their history, and the magnificent collection of paintings by the German-born artist Hans Memling (ca. 1440–94), who moved to Bruges from Brussels in 1465 and became one of the city’s most prominent residents. At this museum, you find such Memling masterpieces as the three-paneled altarpiece of St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist, which

Memling in Sint-Jan/Hospitaalmuseum

Impressions The difference between Bruges and other cities is that in the latter, you look about for the picturesque, and don’t find it easily, while in Bruges, assailed on every side by the picturesque, you

look curiously for the unpicturesque, and don’t find it easily. —British novelist Arnold Bennett, The Journals, 1896–1931

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TRANQUIL escapes

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Seeing the Sights

Through the centuries, since it was founded in 1245 by the Countess Margaret of Constantinople, the Prinselijk Begijnhof ten Wijngaarde (Princely Beguinage of the Vineyard) , Wijngaardstraat (&050/33-00-11), at the Lake of Love, has been one of the most tranquil spots in Bruges, and so it remains today. Begijns were religious women, similar to nuns, who accepted vows of chastity and obedience but drew the line at poverty, preferring to earn a living by looking after the sick and making lace. They provided an option for women to live without a husband and children without becoming a nun—there was little in the way of alternatives at the time. The begijns are no more, but the Begijnhof is occupied by Benedictine nuns who try to keep the begijns’ traditions alive. This beautiful little cluster of 17th-century whitewashed houses surrounding a lawn with poplar trees and flowers makes a marvelous escape from the hustle and bustle of the outside world. One of the houses, the Begijnhuisje (Beguine’s House), has been made over into a museum and can be visited, as can the convent church during a service. The Begijnhof courtyard is always open and admission is free. The

Beguine’s House is open from March to November Monday to Saturday from 10am to noon and 1:45 to 5:30pm, Sunday from 10:45am to noon and 1:45 to 5:30pm; from December to February, hours are Monday, Tuesday, and Friday from 11am to noon and 1:45 to 4:15pm, Wednesday and Thursday from 1:45 to 4:15pm, Saturday from 10am to noon and 1:45 to 5:30pm, and Sunday from 10:45am to noon and 1:45 to 5:30pm. Admission is 2€ for adults, 1.50€ for seniors, 1€ for students and children 6 to 18, and free for children 5 and under. A fine example of the godshuizen (houses of God, or almshouses), built by the rich in Bruges from the 13th century onward as refuges for widows and the poor is the Godshuis de Vos (De Vos Almshouse), from 1713, at the corner of Noordstraat and Wijngaardstraat, near the Begijnhof. The moneybags weren’t being entirely altruistic, since the residents had to pray for their benefactors’ souls twice a day in the chapel that was an integral part of an almshouse’s facilities. The pretty courtyard garden here is surrounded by a chapel and eight original houses, now converted to six, which are owned by the city and occupied by seniors.

consists of the paintings The Mystic Marriage of St. Catherine, Shrine of St Ursula, and Virgin with Child and Apple. Mariastraat 38 (across from Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk). & 050/44-87-11. Admission 8€ adults, 6€ seniors, 1€ ages 6–25, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sun 9:30am–5pm (also Easter Mon and Pentecost Mon). Closed Jan 1, Ascension Day afternoon, and Dec 25.

Historical Churches It took 2 centuries (13th–15th) to build this church, whose soaring 122m (400-ft.) spire can be seen for miles around Bruges. Among the many art treasures here is a beautiful Carrara marby Michelangelo. This statue, ble sculpture of the Madonna and Child made in 1504, was the only one of Michelangelo’s works to leave Italy in his lifetime and today is one of the few that can be seen outside Italy. It was bought by a Bruges Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Church of Our Lady)

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merchant, Jan van Mouskroen, and donated to the church in 1506. The church holds a painting of the Crucifixion by Anthony van Dyck, and the impressive side-by-side of duke of Burgundy Charles the Bold, who died in bronze tomb sculptures 1477, and his daughter, Mary of Burgundy, who died in 1482 at age 25, after falling from her horse. A windowpane under the tombs allows you to view the 13th- and 14th-century graves of priests.

Sint-Salvatorskerkhof (off Steenstraat). &050/33-68-41. www.sintsalvator.be. Admission: cathedral free; museum 2.50€ adults, 1.50€ students, free for children 18 and under. Cathedral Mon 2–5:45pm; Tues–Fri 8:30–11:45am and 2–5:45pm; Sat 8:30–11:45am and 2–3:30pm; Sun 9–10:15am and 2–5:45pm. Closed to casual visitors during services. Museum Sun–Fri 2–5pm.

Seeing the Sights

Sint-Salvatorskathedraal (Holy Savior’s Cathedral) This mainly Gothic church with a 100m (328-ft.) belfry has been Bruges’s cathedral since 1834 (its predecessor, Saint Donatian’s on the Burg, was demolished by the French around 1800). Flanking the altar, the 15th-century wooden choir stalls bear a complete set of escutcheons of the Knights of the Golden Fleece, who held a chapter meeting here in 1478. The Cathedral Museum (Mon–Fri 2–5pm; Sun 3–5pm) houses gold and silver religious vessels, reliquaries, and Episcopal vestments.

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Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerkhof Zuid. &050/44-87-11. Admission: church and Madonna and Child altar free; chapel of Charles and Mary and museum 2€ adults, 1€ seniors and ages 6–25, free for children 5 and under. Mon–Fri 9am–12:30pm and 1:30–5pm; Sat 9am–12:30pm and 1:30–4pm; Sun 1:30–5pm.

MORE CHURCHES There’s no shortage of notable churches in Bruges, but you probably don’t want to spend all your time visiting them. Anyone with a particular interest in churches, however, should try to visit at least a few of these. The magnificent Sint-Walburgakerk (St. Walburga’s Church), in SintMaartensplein (1619–43), is one of the few baroque monuments in this Gothic-fixated city. It has a satisfying amount of marble and a notable altar, pulpit, and communion bench. Sint-Walburgakerk was the Jesuit church of Bruges until 1774. The wealthy Adornes merchant family constructed the Jeruzalemkerk (Jerusalem Church), Peperstraat 3, beside the Lace Center, between 1471 and 1483, along the lines of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. A replica of Christ’s Tomb is in the crypt underneath the choir. Admission to the Lace Center (p.149) allows you to visit this church as well. Also owing much of its ornamentation to wealthy benefactors is Sint-Jakobskerk (St. James’s Church) in Sint-Jakobsplein. This heavy-looking 15th-century Gothic construction has an intricately carved wooden pulpit, with figures at the base representing the continents. Founded in 1276 as a hospice, Onze-Lieve-Vrouw ter Potterie (Our Lady of the Pottery), Potterierei 78–79, is now a seniors’ home. Part of it houses the Potterie Museum (&050/44-87-11), which has a collection of tapestries, 15th- to 17th-century furniture, silverware, religious objects, books, and early Flemish paintings. The adjoining 14th-century church, with a fine baroque interior, was the Potters Guild chapel. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9:30am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5pm (closed Jan 1, Ascension Day afternoon, and Dec 25). Admission is 2€ for adults, 1€ for seniors and ages 6 to 25, and free for children 5 and under.

Other Sights of Interest Brouwerij De Halve Maan The brewery here was mentioned in dispatches as early as 1546 and has been in use in “modern” times since 1856. Today, it produces 151

the famous (in Belgium) Brugse Zot and Straffe Hendrik beers, strapping brews that can be sampled in the brewery’s own brasserie. Walplein 26. &050/44-42-22. www.halvemaan.be. Admission 5.50€. Guided visits on the hour: Apr– Oct Sun–Fri 11am–4pm, Sat 11am–5pm; Nov–Mar Mon–Fri 11am–3pm, Sat–Sun 11am–4pm. Closed Dec 25–26 and Jan 1 (and other dates in Jan; see website for details).

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Seeing the Sights

Although Bruges is far from being a powerhouse of Belgian handmade pralines, it has decided to squeeze itself into this important tourism sector via this museum. That said, the museum is an interesting trip down chocolate’s memory lane. The exhibits cover chocolate’s beginnings with the Aztecs, move on to the way it took Europe’s royal courts by storm, and end up with Belgium’s winning ways with the confection. Quizzes about chocolate are aimed at child visitors.

Choco Story–The Chocolate Museum

Wijnzakstraat 2 (at Sint-Jansplein). &050/61-22-37. www.choco-story.be. Admission 6€ adults, 5€ seniors, 4€ children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Daily 10am–5pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 24–25 and 31.

Diamond polishing has been an important local industry for centuries, ever since Antwerp dealers, looking for cheaper skilled labor, brought the craft to Bruges. The technique of polishing diamonds using diamond powder on a rotating disk may have been invented by the Bruges goldsmith Lodewijk van Berquem around 1450. This museum focuses on the history of diamond polishing in Bruges, with demonstrations and displays of the equipment employed by the craftspeople.

Diamantmuseum Brugge (Bruges Diamond Museum)

Katelijnestraat 43B (at Oude Gentweg). & 050/34-20-56. www.diamondmuseum.be. Admission: museum 7€ adults, 6€ seniors, 5€ students/children 7–18, free for children 6 and under; diamond-polishing demonstration and museum 10€ adults, 9 € seniors, 7.50€ students, 8€ children 7–18, free for children 6 and under. Daily 10:30am–5:30pm; diamond-polishing demonstration daily 12:15pm. Closed Jan 1, 2nd and 3rd week in Jan, and Dec 24–25.

Hof Bladelin (Bladelin House) This 15th-century mansion, which is now a seniors’ home, was built by Pieter Bladelin, treasurer to Duke Philip the Good. The Medici Bank of Florence took over in 1466 and gave the place an Italian look, particularly in the courtyard, which is thought to be the earliest example of the Renaissance style in the Low Countries. On the facade are medallions depicting Lorenzo de Medici and his wife, Clarice Orsini. Naaldenstraat 19 (off Kuipersstraat). &050/33-64-34. Admission 1€. Apr–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–noon and 2–5pm, Sun and holidays 10:30am–noon; Oct–Mar Mon–Sat 10am–noon and 2–4pm, Sun and holidays 10:30am–noon.

City Gates The now-vanished city wall once boasted nine powerfully fortified gates dating from the 14th century. The four that survive are (clockwise from the rail station) the imposing Smedenpoort; Ezelpoort, which is famed for the many swans that grace the moat beside it; Kruispoort, which looks more like a castle with a drawbridge; and Gentpoort, now reduced in status to a traffic obstacle. Only one defensive tower remains, the Poertoren, which was used as a gunpowder store and overlooks the Lake of Love.

Windmills The park that marks the line of the city walls between Kruispoort and Dampoort in the northeast is occupied by a row of photogenic windmills. They are (from south to 152

Strolling the Back Streets You don’t need to visit the top 10 highlights to enjoy Bruges. Shut your guidebook, put away the street map, and just wander, taking time out to make your own discoveries. Bruges’s inhabitants

live their everyday lives in absurdly beautiful surroundings and aren’t always engaged in putting on a show for the tourists.

Boudewijn Seapark , Alfons de Baeckestraat 12 (&050/38-38-38; www.dolfinarium.be; bus no. 7 or 17), in the southern suburb of Sint-Michiels, is a big favorite with children, who for some reason seem to prefer its rides, paddleboats, dolphins, and sea lions to Bruges’s many historical treasures. Strange but true! Admission is 24€ for adults; 20€ for seniors, visitors with reduced mobility, and children over 1m (39 in.) and up to age 12; and free for children under 1m (39 in.). The park is open June to August daily from 10:30am to 5pm, and during Easter week and weekends in September from 11am to 5pm. The Dolfinarium is open intermittently at other times in April and May. In the eastern suburbs, Kinderboerderij Domein De Zeven Torentjes (Seven Towers Estate Children’s Farm), Canadaring 41, Assebroek (&050/35-40-43; bus no. 2), is a 14th-century manor farm that has been transformed into a children’s farm, with pigs, hens, horses, and other animals. All the buildings—the farmhouse, barns, coach house, bakery, and more—have been restored and a large playpark added. An on-site cafeteria has a kids-friendly menu. A 16th-century dovecote has niches for 650 doves. The farm is open Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 5:15pm, Saturday from 10am to 6pm, and Sunday from 1 to 6pm. Admission is free. Both the theme park and the farm can be reached by bus from either the rail station or the Markt.

Seeing the Sights

Especially for Kids

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north): the Bonne-Chièremolen (1888), moved here from Olsene in East Flanders in 1911; the Sint-Janshuismolen (1770; open May–Aug daily 9:30am–12:30pm and 1:30–5pm; admission 2€ adults, 1€ seniors and ages 6–25, free for children 5 and under); the Nieuwe Papegaaimolen (1790), an oil mill rebuilt here in 1970; and the Koeleweimolen (1765), rebuilt here in 1996 (open July–Aug daily 9:30am– 12:30pm and 1:30–5pm; admission 2€ adults, 1€ seniors and ages 6–25, free for children 5 and under).

Organized Tours & Excursions A must for every visitor is a boat cruise on the city canals. There are several departure points, all marked with an anchor icon on maps available at the tourist office. Those open-top canalboats can be scorching in hot weather and bracing in cold, but they’re fun and they give you a uniquely satisfying view of the city. They operate March to November daily from 10am to 6pm, and December to February on weekends, school vacations, and public holidays from 10am to 6pm (except if the canals are frozen!). A half-hour cruise is 6.90€ for adults, 3.20€ for children 4 to 11 accompanied by an adult, and free for children 3 and under. Wear something warm if the weather is cold or windy. 153

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Shopping

Another delightful way to tour Bruges is by horse-drawn carriage (&050/3454-01; www.hippo.be). From March to November, carriages are stationed on the Markt (on Wed on the Burg). A 35-minute ride is 36€ per carriage for up to five people. Minivan tours by Sightseeing Line (&050/35-50-24; www.citytour.be) last 50 minutes and depart hourly daily from the Markt. The first tour departs at 10am; the last tour departs at 8pm July to September, at 7pm April to June, at 6pm October, at 5pm March, and at 4pm November to February. Fares are 15€ for adults, 8.50€ children 6 to 11, and free for children 5 and under. From March to October, get some exercise and at the same time visit little-known parts of Bruges—or head out of town to explore the nearby flat Flemish countryside and the village of Damme—on a bike tour, with commentary in English, led by QuasiMundo Biketours (&050/33-07-75; www.quasimundo.eu). Tours are 24€ for adults, 20€ for students and ages 8 to 26, and free for children 7 and under. Call ahead to make a reservation. The meeting and departure point is the Burg. If you’d like a trained, knowledgeable guide to accompany you in Bruges, the tourist office can provide one for 50€ for the first 2 hours and 25€ for each additional hour. Or in July and August, join a daily guided tour at 3pm that leaves from the tourist office; it costs 9€ for adults and is free for children 11 and under.

SHOPPING No one comes here for stylish shopping—for that you need Brussels or Antwerp. What Bruges is famous for is lace. Most of it is machine-made, but there’s still plenty of genuine, high-quality (if expensive) handmade lace to be found. Souvenirs of a more perishable nature include Oud-Brugge cheese, and local beers such as Straffe Hendrik, Brugs Tarwebier, and Brugge Tripel. The contents of a stone bottle of jenever (gin) and a box of handmade chocolate pralines should go down well. Upmarket stores and boutiques can be found on the streets around the Markt and ’t Zand squares, among them Geldmuntstraat, Noordzandstraat, Steenstraat, Zuidzandstraat, and Vlamingstraat. There are souvenir, lace, and small specialty stores everywhere. Most stores are open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 6pm, with latenight shopping to 9pm on Friday. Many open on Sunday, especially in summer.

Shopping A to Z Shopping in Bruges caters primarily, but not exclusively, to tourist tastes and needs. Here’s a short list of interesting and useful stores.

BOOKS Brugse Boekhandel K. Demeester Stocks a moderate range of English-language books, with a focus on travel guides, as well as maps, newspapers, and magazines. Dijver 2. &050/33-29-52. www.brugseboekhandel.be. Tips on Buying Lace When you purchase lace, ideally you should specify that you want handmade lace, which is more expensive and of higher quality than the machine-made

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stuff. The most famous laces to look for are bloemenwerk, rozenkant, and toversesteek.

DEPARTMENT STORES This is Bruges’s main department store, which sells a wide range of goods. Steenstraat 11–13. &050/33-06-03. www.inno.be.

Galeria Inno

DIAMONDS Brugs Diamanthuis Housed in a handsome building dating from 1518, this store has a sparkling array of diamonds. The company has a second store at the Diamond Museum (see “Other Sights of Interest,” above). Cordoeaniersstraat 5 (off Vlaming-

FOOD, DRINK & CHOCOLATES A French delicatessen, with all that implies in terms of taste and the range of artisanal products. It has a salon de dégustation for tasting its fine pâté, cheese, and wine. Stoofstraat 3–5. &050/33-69-24. Van Tilborgh The owner’s lip-smacking pralines are made from her own recipe. Noordzandstraat 1. &050/33-59-04. Woolstreet Company One of several stores along this street selling a wide range of Belgian beers, mainly locally produced. Wollestraat 31A. &050/34-83-83.

BRUGES

straat). & 050/34-41-60. www.diamondhouse.net. Second location: Katelijnestraat 43 (at Oude Gentweg). &050/33-64-33.

Malesherbes

Bruges After Dark

GIFTS Callebert Should you tire of the traditional in Bruges, you can shop here for stylish, modern gifts and toys. Wollestraat 25. &050/33-50-61. www.callebert.be.

LACE Kantuweeltje You can see fine lace pieces being made by hand at this lace and tapestry specialist, in business since 1895. Philipstockstraat 11. &050/33-42-25.

Markets The Antiques and Flea Market on Dijver is a fine show in a scenic location beside the canal. It runs from March to October Saturday and Sunday from noon to 5pm. There are general markets on the Markt every Wednesday from 8am to 1pm, and on ’t Zand and nearby Beursplein every Saturday from 8am to 1pm. The fish market on the colonnaded Vismarkt, dating from 1821, may be less important—although ready-to-eat prawns and raw herring are available here—but it’s still interesting to see; it takes place Monday to Saturday from 8am to 1pm.

BRUGES AFTER DARK For information on what to do after dark, pick up the free monthly brochure Exit and the free monthly newsletter events@brugge from the tourist office, hotels, and performance venues. The monthly newspaper Brugge Cultuurmagazine, free and available at these locations, is in Dutch, but its performance dates and venue details are fairly easy to follow.

The Performing Arts The new, ultramodern Concertgebouw , ’t Zand (& 070/22-33-02; www. concertgebouw.be), the home base of the Symfonieorkest van Vlaanderen (Flanders Symphony Orchestra; & 050/84-05-87; www.symfonieorkest.be), is the city’s main venue for opera, classical music, theater, and dance. This has left the 155

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former principal venue for these events in Bruges, the Koninklijke Stadsschouwburg (Royal Municipal Theater), Vlamingstraat 29 (& 050/44-30-60; www. cultuurcentrumbrugge.be), from 1869, to back up the new mother ship by mounting smaller-scale performances. Theater at both venues is likely to be in Dutch or French, and rarely, if ever, in English. Another important performance venue is the Joseph Ryelandtzaal, Achiel van Ackerplein 3 (& 050/44-80-12). Smaller-scale events, such as recitals, are often held at Sint-Salvatorskathedraal, Sint-Jakobskerk, and other churches (see “Historical Churches,” earlier in this chapter). A different kind of theater is on the menu at Brugge Anno 1468 (Bruges Year 1468) , Celebrations Entertainment, Vlamingstraat 86 (&050/34-75-72; www. celebrations-entertainment.be). In the atmospheric setting of the neo-Gothic former Heilige-Hartkerk (Sacred Heart Church), from 1885, which belonged to the Jesuit Order, actors recreate the wedding of duke of Burgundy Charles the Bold to Margaret of York, while visitors tuck into a medieval banquet. Performances are April to October Thursday to Saturday from 7:30 to 10:30pm; November to March Saturday from 7:30 to 10:30pm. Tickets are 45€ to 76€ for adults, 50% of the adult price for children 11 to 14, 13€ for children 6 to 10, and free for children 5 and under.

LIVE MUSIC & DANCE The Cactus Muziekcentrum presents an eclectic and very often prickly concert schedule Friday and Saturday nights in the Magdalenazaal (MaZ), Magdalenastraat 27 (&050/33-20-14; www.cactusmusic.be), just southwest of the Old Town. Jazz from bebop to modern along with the blues (and a smidgeon of French and Dutch chanson) are all belted out at De Versteende Nacht , Langestraat 11 (& 050/68-81-77; www.deversteendenacht.com), across the canal from central Hoogstraat. For a raucous dancing-on-the-tables kind of night, head to Café de Vuurmolen, Kraanplein 5 (&050/33-00-79; www.vuurmolen.com), a few blocks north of the Markt; it’s open nightly 10pm until the wee hours. Ma Rica Rokk, ’t Zand 6 (&050/33-83-58; www.maricarokk.be), attracts a young and (for a medieval town like Bruges) trendy crowd to its DJ evenings. Cool as a cucumber, kaffee L’aMaRaL, Kuipersstraat 10 (&0497/39-19-29; www.lamaral.be), does cocktails and hip DJs. More DJ licks, along with cocktails and more-than-decent food, are served up at chic B-IN, in the rambling Oud Sint-Jan building, off Mariastraat, south of the city center (&050/31-13-00; www.b-in.be).

BARS Bruges’s ability to peel back the centuries is on stellar display in the city’s oldest , Blekersstraat 2 (& 050/34-37-37; www.cafe tavern, Café Vlissinghe vlissinghe.be), which dates from 1515 and is tucked into a side street off Sint-Annarei. ’t Brugs Beertje , Kemelstraat 5 (&050/33-96-16; www.brugsbeertje.be), off Steenstraat, is a traditional cafe that serves more than 300 different kinds of beer. Even that stalwart number is outdone by Bierbrasserie Cambrinus, Philipstockstraat 19 (& 050/33-23-28; www.cambrinus.eu), in a building that dates from 1699, just off the Burg, and which has no fewer than 400 Belgian brews on its drinks list. Grand Café de Passage, Dweersstraat 26 (&050/34-02-32; www.passage bruges.com), is a quiet and elegant cafe that serves inexpensive meals.

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A SIDE TRIP TO DAMME

The Essentials

A Side Trip to Damme

A delightful way to get to Damme is to sail there onboard the small sternwheeler Lamme Goedzaak . Departures are from Noorweegse Kaai in the north of Bruges, five times daily from April to mid-October. The half-hour cruise on the poplar-lined canal takes you past a landscape straight out of an old Flemish painting. Round-trip tickets are 7.50€ for adults, 6.50€ for seniors, 5.50€ for children 3 to 11, and free for children 2 and under. Schedules and other details are available from Rederij Doornzele (&09/233-84-69; www.bootdamme-brugge.be). De Lijn bus no. 43 departs up to seven times daily from the train station and the Markt in Bruges to Damme. Other options are to drive, bike, or even walk from Bruges to Damme, along the scenic canal-side road Daamse Vaart Zuid from Dampoort in Bruges. VISITOR INFORMATION Toerisme Damme, Jacob van Maerlantstraat 3, 8340 Damme (& 050/28-86-10; fax 050/37-00-21; www.toerismedamme.be), faces the Stadhuis (Town Hall) on the Markt. The office is open mid-April to midOctober Monday to Friday from 9am to noon and 1 to 6pm, and weekends and holidays from 10am to noon and 2 to 6pm; and mid-October to mid-April Monday to Friday from 9am to noon and 1 to 5pm, and weekends and holidays from 2 to 5pm. GETTING THERE

7 BRUGES

This small town (pop. 11,000), just 7km (41⁄2 miles) from Bruges, was once the city’s outer harbor, where seagoing ships loaded and unloaded their cargoes, until the Zwin inlet silted up in 1520. The marriage of duke of Burgundy Charles the Bold and Margaret of York, daughter of England’s duke of York, was celebrated here in 1468— which indicates the importance of Damme at the time. Today, visitors come to view the picturesque Markt (which holds a statue of 13th-century native Jacob van Maerlant, the “Father of Flemish Poetry”), and the canal-side scenery en route from Bruges. It’s easy to make a day trip to Damme.

Seeing the Sights The Gothic (Stadhuis) Town Hall on the Markt dates from 1464 to 1468. On its facade are statues of duke of Burgundy Charles the Bold and his wife, Margaret of York, among other historical notables. Out front stands a statue of the poet Jacob van Maerlant (1230–96), who wrote his most important works in Damme. Across from the Town Hall, at Jacob van Maerlantstraat 13, is a 15th-century mansion, the SaintJean d’Angély Huis , where in 1468 Charles the Bold married Margaret of York. Along the street, at Jacob van Maerlantstraat 3, is another 15th-century mansion, Huyse de Groote Sterre. This was the Spanish governor’s residence in the 17th century and is now occupied by Damme’s tourist office and the Uilenspiegelmuseum. Tijl Uilenspiegel is a 14th-century German folk-tale character (Till Ulenspiegel) who came to Damme by a roundabout route and has been adopted by the village. The museum has the same contact details and open hours as the tourist office (see above). Admission is 2.50€ for adults, 1.50€ for students and children 6 to 18, free for children 5 and under, and 5€ for a family. On Kerkstraat, which runs south from the Markt, is the Gothic Sint-Janshospitaal (St. John’s Hospital) at no. 33, a hospital for the poor, endowed in 1249 by Countess Margaret of Constantinople. This now houses a small period museum that’s open Monday and Friday from 2 to 4:30pm, Tuesday to Thursday from 11am to noon and 2 to 157

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4:30pm, and weekends from 11am to noon and 2 to 6pm. Admission is 1.50€ for adults, 1€ for people with reduced mobility, .75€ for children 6 to 17, free for children 5 and under, and 3€ for a family. Nearby stands the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Church of Our Lady), dating from around 1340. Across the bridge over the Bruges-Sluis Canal, at Dammesteenweg 1, is the 18thcentury whitewashed De Sint-Christoffelhoeve (St. Christopher’s Farm). Note the ornamental gate and the monumental barn with its mansard roof. A little way to the west along Daamse Vaart is the Schellemolen, a windmill built in 1867. Beside the jetty where the Lamme Goedzaak ties up is a modern sculpture group featuring the legend of Tijl Uilenspiegel.

Where to Dine The sophisticated French/Flemish restaurant De Lieve , Jacob van Maerlantstraat 10 (&050/35-66-30; www.delieve.com), in the center of Damme, has main courses for 27€ to 29€, and a fixed-price Menu Uilenspiegel for 34€. Along the canal to Bruges, the rustic Smoefelhuis ’t Meiliedje, Daamse Vaart Zuid 5 (&050/3524-78; www.meiliedje.be), has pancakes and other snacks; in addition, it serves fish and meat main courses for 9€ to 18€ and also has a fixed-price menu for 23€.

GHENT & ANTWERP

lthough Ghent and Antwerp can’t match Bruges for sheer medieval good looks, many Belgians consider them the true heartland of Flemish culture. Both cit-

ies have a gritty, lived-in feel when compared with Bruges’s museum-piece air, and neither yields a millimeter in any argument over relative historical importance and artistic heritage. When it comes to contemporary vibrancy, they are the hands-down winners.

Standing at the confluence of the Schelde (Scheldt) and Leie rivers, Ghent has always been a pivotal point for Flanders. The city was a seat of the counts of Flanders, who built a great castle here in the 12th century, but local fortifications predate their reign, back to the 900s. The medieval treasures in the Old Town are preserved not as dry, showcase relics, but as living parts of the city. Antwerp owes its life to the Schelde (Scheldt) River. Rubens is the greatest of several artistic masters who left their mark on the face of this city and a great love of beauty in the hearts of its inhabitants. You see that love expressed in their buildings, their public works of art, and the contents of some 20 museums.

GHENT 48km (30 miles) NW of Brussels; 46km (29 miles) SE of Bruges

Ghent (pop. 235,000) is often considered a poor relation of Bruges, with historical monuments and townscapes that aren’t as distinguished as those in its sister city. Many people might suggest you visit Ghent only if you have time after visiting Bruges. There is some validity in this recommendation—but not much. Life moves faster in the capital town of OostVlaanderen (East Flanders) province (Gent in Dutch; Gand in French), an important inland port and industrial center, and Ghent compensates for its less precious appearance with a vigorous social and cultural scene.

Essentials GETTING THERE Ghent is a 35-minute train ride from Brussels, and there are at least three trains every hour from the capital. The regular oneway fare is 8.10€ in second class and 13€ in first class; the round-trip/ return fare is 16€ in second class and 25€ in first class. Ghent’s main train

GHENT & ANTWERP

Ghent

station, Gent-Sint-Pieters, on Koningin Maria-Hendrikaplein, 2km (11⁄2 miles) south of the center city, dates from 1912. To get quickly and easily to the center of town, take tram no. 1 from the nearest platform under the bridge to your left as you exit the station, and get out at Korenmarkt. Unless you need to count every euro, don’t walk there; it’s a dull route. Save your energy for sightseeing once you’ve arrived. By car, take A10/E40 from both Brussels and Bruges, and A14/E17 from Antwerp. VISITOR INFORMATION The city tourist office is the Dienst Toerisme Gent Infokantoor, in the cellar of the Belfry, Botermarkt 17A, 9000 Gent (&09/26656-60; fax 09/266-56-73; www.visitgent.be; tram: 1 or 4). This office is open midMarch to mid-October daily from 9:30am to 6:30pm, and mid-October to mid-March daily from 9:30am to 4:30pm (closed Jan 1 and Dec 25). In addition to providing information, they can make last-minute hotel reservations. GETTING AROUND Ghent has an excellent tram and bus network, and a single electric trolley-bus line (see the box “Silent Running,” below), operated by De Lijn (&070/22-02-00; www.delijn.be). Many lines converge at Korenmarkt and GentSint-Pieters rail station. All four of the city’s tram lines (1, 4, 21, 22) stop at the station and at multiple points in the heart of town. Walking is the best way to experience the Old Town at a human pace. Farther out, you’re better off using public Silent Running transportation, particularly the trams. The city’s bus station adjoins GentGhent has Belgium’s only remaining Sint-Pieters train station. electric trolley-bus service (line 3). It Purchase your ticket from a De Lijn hums quietly through the center of sales point or automat (ticket machine) town on an east-west route and is usebefore boarding and you’ll pay less (the ful for getting to some places of inter“twin” prices listed here reflect this est—but you might want to step aboard distinction). An enkele rit (one-way) as much for the novelty value of the ticket costs 1.20€/1.60€ for two zones ride as for any other reason. and 2€/3€ for three or more zones. A dagkaart (day card), valid for the entire city network, costs 5€/6€ for 1 day, 10€/12€ for 3 days, and 15€/18€ for 5 days. A 1-day pass for children 6 to 11 is 1.50€/2€. Children 5 and under ride free. For taxis, call Vtax (&09/222-22-22; www.v-tax.be). SPECIAL EVENTS During 10 days around July 21, plunge into the swirl of Belgium’s greatest extended street party, the Gentse Feesten (Ghent Festivities; & 09/210-10-10; www.gentsefeesten.be), a time of free music, from classical through Tin Pan Alley to alternative rock and the latest dance beats, along with street theater, dance, performance art, puppet shows, a street fair, special museum exhibits, and generally riotous fun and games in the heart of town.

City Layout The city’s central district is known as Het Kuip van Gent (the Barrel of Ghent), and this is where in times past the local big wheels had their residences. Korenmarkt lies at the center of the city. Most of Ghent’s important sights—including the Town Hall, St. Bavo’s Cathedral, and the Belfry—lie within 1km (1⁄3 mile) of Korenmarkt. Patershol, a medieval enclave not far from the Castle of the Counts, is now something of a gastronomic center sprinkled with restaurants in renovated old buildings. The Leie River winds through the center of town to connect with the Scheldt River 160

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and a network of canals that lead to the busy port area. Citadel Park, location of the Fine Arts Museum, is in the south, near Gent-Sint-Pieters station.

Seeing the Sights This is a city best seen by walking its streets, gazing at its gabled guild houses and private mansions, and stopping on one of its bridges to look down at the canal or river. Ghent’s historical monuments have not all been prettified; some of them look downright gray and forbidding, which, oddly enough, gives them a more authentic feel. The castle of the counts of Flanders, for instance, was meant to look gray and forbidding, since the citizens of Ghent were so often in revolt against its overlord.

GHENT & ANTWERP

Ghent

THE TOP ATTRACTIONS The “Three Towers of Ghent” that have become a signature image of the city are St. Bavo’s Cathedral, the Belfry, and St. Nicholas’s Church. They form a virtually straight line pointing toward St. Michael’s Bridge. Belfort en Lakenhalle (Belfry and Cloth Hall) Across the square from the cathedral, the Belfry tower and Cloth Hall form a glorious medieval ensemble. The 14th-century Belfry holds the great bells that have rung out Ghent’s civic pride through the centuries, the most beloved being a giant bell known as Roeland (1315), destroyed by emperor Charles V in 1540 as punishment for Ghent’s insubordination. No fewer than 28 of the 54 bells that now make up the tower’s huge carillon were cast from Roeland’s broken pieces. The massive Triomfanten bell, cast in 1660, now rests in a small park at the foot of the Belfry, still bearing the crack it susYour Passport to Ghent tained in 1914. Take the elevator to the Belfry’s upper gallery, 66m (217 One of the best discounts in town is the ft.) high, to see the bells and take in Gent museumpas, available from the fantastic panoramic views of the city. A Infokantoor (see “Visitor Information,” great iron chest was kept in the Belabove) for 20€. The pass, valid for 3 fry’s Secreet (strongroom) to hold the days, affords free use of the city’s puball-important charters that spelled out lic transportation and admission to 15 privileges the guilds and the burghers key museums and monuments. of medieval Ghent wrested from the counts of Flanders. The Cloth Hall dates from 1425 and was the gathering place of wool and cloth merchants. A baroque extension from 1741 on Goudenleeuwplein was used until 1902 as a prison, dubbed De Mammelokker (the Suckler). The name comes from a relief above the doorway that depicts the Roman legend of Cimon, starving to death in prison, being suckled by his daughter Pero. Appropriately, this newer section is now the office for the city’s ombudsvrouw (ombudswoman). Sint-Baafsplein (at Botermarkt). &09/233-39-54. www.belfortgent.be. Admission 5€ adults, 3.75€ seniors and ages 19–26, free for children 18 and under. Daily 10am–6pm; free guided tours of Belfry daily Tues–Sun 2:30 and 3:30pm. Tram: 1 or 4 to St-Baafsplein.

“Grim” is the word that comes to mind when you first see this gray fortress crouching like a great stone lion. The counts of Flanders clearly designed the Gravensteen to keep the populace in line by sending a “don’t-even-think-about-it” message to a rebellion-inclined citizenry. It was built by count of Flanders Philip of Alsace, soon after he returned from the Crusades in

Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts)

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Naked Truth A prudish 18th-century Austrian Emperor Joseph II ordered The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb’s naked figures of Adam and Eve replaced by others with fig leafs covering their genitals.

Today, the original Adam and Eve are back in their birthday-suit glory, and you can view the faintly ridiculous replacement panels attached to columns near the cathedral’s entrance.

Sint-Veerleplein 11 (at Kraanlei). &09/225-93-06. www.gent.be/gravensteen. Admission 8€ adults, 6€ seniors and ages 19–26, free for children 18 and under. Apr–Sept daily 9am–6pm; Oct–Mar daily 9am–5pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 24–25 and 31. Tram: 1 or 4 to Sint-Veerleplein.

Ghent

Sint-Baafskathedraal (St. Bavo’s Cathedral) Even if you see nothing else in Ghent, you shouldn’t miss this massive cathedral. Don’t be put off by its rather unimpressive exterior, a mixture of Romanesque, Gothic, and baroque architecture. The interior is filled with paintings, sculptures, memorials, and carved tombs. St. , Bavo’s showpiece is the 24-panel altarpiece The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb commissioned by a wealthy city alderman and completed by Jan van Eyck in 1432. Van Eyck’s luminous use of oils and naturalistic portrayal of nature and people represented a giant step away from the rigid style of Gothic religious art. But besides its importance in the history of art, the Mystic Lamb is simply spellbinding. Other art treasures in the cathedral include Rubens’s The Conversion of St. Bavo (1623), in the Rubens Chapel on the semicircular ambulatory behind the high altar. In the vaulted nave is a remarkable pulpit in white marble entwined with oak.

8 GHENT & ANTWERP

1180 with images of crusader castles in the Holy Land. If its walls (2m/6 ft. thick), battlements, and turrets failed to intimidate attackers, the count could always turn to a well-equipped torture chamber inside. Relics of the chamber—a small guillotine, spiked iron collars, branding irons, thumb screws, and a special kind of pitchfork designed to ensure that people being burned at the stake stayed in the flames—are displayed in a small museum. Climb up to the ramparts of the high central building, the donjon, which has great views of Ghent’s rooftops and towers.

Sint-Baafsplein. &09/269-20-45. www.sintbaafskathedraal-gent.be. Admission: cathedral free; Mystic Lamb chapel and crypt 4€ adults (includes audio guide in English), 1.50€ children 8–12, free for children 7 and under. Cathedral Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 8:30am–6pm, Sun 1–6pm; Nov–Mar Mon–Sat 8:30am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm. Mystic Lamb chapel and crypt Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 9:30am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; Nov–Mar Mon–Sat 10:30am–4pm, Sun 1–4pm. Tram: 1 or 4 to Sint-Baafsplein.

MORE MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS Something of a split personality, this worthwhile museum is housed in the Hotel de Coninck (1755), a baroque mansion with a modern extension at the rear. In the old wing, the exhibits range through period rooms furnished and decorated in 18th- and 19th-century style. Tapestries and a collection of Chinese porcelain are among the prized antique items. Some of these belonged to France’s King Louis XVIII, who passed a period of exile in Ghent in 1815 during Napoleon’s brief return to power. The new wing is strong on Art Nouveau—from Belgian Masters of the genre such as Victor Horta, Henry van de Velde, and Paul Hankar, among others—Art Deco, and contemporary design. You can take in most everything of importance here in around an hour.

Design museum Gent

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Jan Breydelstraat 5 (off Korenlei). & 09/267-99-99. http://design.museum.gent.be. Admission 5€ adults, 3.75€ seniors, 1€ ages 19–26, free for children 18 and under. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 25–26 and 31. Tram: 1 or 4 to Korenmarkt.

Ghent’s fascinating folklore museum is in a godshuis (almshouse) founded in the 1300s and rebuilt in the 1500s, which functioned as a children’s home and hospital. Set around a grassy courtyard, it creates an oasis of tranquillity. Inside the cluster of folksily restored cottages are replicas of typical rooms in Ghent homes at the turn of the 20th century and workshops where weaving, metalwork, carpentry, and other crafts were practiced. Visit the almshouse’s late Gothic Sint-Catharinakapel (St. Catherine’s Chapel), dating from 1540. A marionette theater troupe, Poppenkast Pierke, presents performances for children (in Dutch, but young kids might be enchanted by the action even if they can’t understand the words) on specified days of the week. While the kids are being thusly entertained, the grown-ups can kick back over drinks at the museum’s traditional tavern, ’t Cafeetse. Het Huis van Alijn (Alijn House)

GHENT & ANTWERP

Ghent

Kraanlei 65 (across the Leie River from Vrijdagmarkt). &09/269-23-50. www.huisvanalijn.be. Admission: museum 5€ adults, 3.75€ seniors, 1€ ages 19–26, free for children 18 and under; marionette theater 3€. Museum Tues–Sat 11am–5pm; Sun 10am–5pm. Marionette theater Sept–June Wed and Sat 2:30pm (also Thurs 2:30pm during school vacations). Closed Jan 1 and Dec 25. Tram: 1 or 4 to Sint-Veerleplein.

Museum voor Schone Kunsten Gent (Ghent Fine Arts Museum)

Ancient and modern art masterpieces, many of them by Belgian artists ranging from early Flemish Primitives to 19th-century Symbolists, are displayed here on the edge of Citadelpark, south of the center of town. Highlights include works by Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony van Dyck, Hieronymus Bosch, and Théodore Géricault, along with such moderns as James Ensor, Theo van Rysselberghe, George Minne, and Constant Permeke. Among the most notable works is Bosch’s painting The Bearing of the Cross (ca. 1500), a respectful rendition of Christ on his way to being crucified while surrounded by a gaggle of rather grotesque-looking Flemish characters. Fernand Scribedreef 1, Citadelpark (near Gent-Sint-Pieters train station). & 09/240-07-00. www. mskgent.be. Admission 5€ adults, 3.75€ seniors, 1€ ages 19–26, free for children 18 and under. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 24–25 and 31. Tram: 1 to Kortrijksesteenweg.

A mixture of surviving Romanesque elements and the Flemish Schelde Gothic architectural style, the impressive 13th- to 15th-century church, a veritable mountain of blue Tournai limestone, was paid for by Ghent’s wealthy medieval merchants and guilds. In recent decades, it has undergone extensive renovation work that’s still ongoing. The tower is one of the “three towers of Ghent”—in fact, it was the first of the three to grace the city skyline. A baroque high altar and other rich decorations embellish the interior; all of these date from after the Protestant Beeldenstorm (Iconoclastic Fury) of 1566, during which Catholic churches across the Low Countries were ransacked.

Sint-Niklaaskerk (St Nicholas’s Church)

Korenmarkt (entrance on Cataloniëstraat). &09/234-28-69. Free admission. Mon 2–5pm; Tues–Sun and holidays 10am–5pm. Tram: 1 or 4 to Korenmarkt.

Weapons, uniforms, musical instruments, coins, clothing, glass objects, tapestries, and household items from daily life long ago are on view in a 14th-century former Cistercian convent (14th–17th c.), the Bijlokeabdij (Bijloke Abbey). Art from Ghent and Flanders is exhibited inside the House of the Abbess.

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Godshuizenlaan 2 (south of the Coupure canal). &09/267-14-00. www.stamgent.be. Admission 5€ adults, 3.75€ seniors, 1€ ages 19–26, free for children 18 and under. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 24–25 and 31. Tram: 1 to Charles de Kerchovelaan.

The Medieval Harbor Graslei and Korenlei, two beautiful canal-side quays just west of Korenmarkt, are each home to a solid row of towering, gabled former guild houses, warehouses, and other harbor installations. These were built in a variety of architectural styles between the 1200s and 1600s, when the Leie waterway between them formed the city’s busy commercial harbor, the Tussen Bruggen (Between the Bridges). A considerable amount of restorative nip and tuck has been done to them over the centuries, right up to the present day, and many now house cafes and restaurants.

GRASLEI GHENT & ANTWERP Ghent

The building at Graslei no. 8, the Brabant Gothic Gildehuis van de Metselaars (Stonemasons’ Guild House), has graceful pinnacles and is decorated with a medallion of an angel (hence its other name: Den Enghel/the Angel) and reliefs of the Quatuor Coronati, four Roman martyrs who were the guild’s patrons. It claims to date from 1527 but is actually a 1912 reconstruction of a 16th-century guild house located in another part of Ghent (on Cataloniëstraat). No. 9, dating from 1435, was the first Korenmetershuis (House of the Grain Measurers), where officials weighed and assessed the quality of imported grain before it was transported to market on Korenmarkt. Next door, at no. 10, is the solidly constructed Het Spijker (Stockpile House), dating from around 1200, where taxed corn was stored. The front of its outward-leaning Romanesque facade reaches up to Belgium’s oldest step gable. Inside is the chic restaurant and live-music club Belga Queen. The tiny building at no. 11 is the Tolhuisje (Little Customs House), which was constructed in 1682 in the Flemish Renaissance style as the office of the city’s corn revenue agent. It now houses a great little cafe, Het Tolhuisje. Nos. 12–13, the second, or annex, Korenmetershuis (House of the Grain Measurers), dates from 1540 and has ornamental elements from 1698 on its facade of red brick and white stone. No. 14, with a facade dating from 1531 covering the 14th-century building underneath, was the ornate Brabant Gothic Gildehuis van de Vrije Schippers (Guild House of the Free Boatmen) . This is one of the finest sights on Graslei, decorated with symbols of sailing ships and sailors on its sandstone facade.

KORENLEI Across the water from Graslei by the Sint-Michielsbrug (St. Michael’s Bridge), on Korenlei, stands the once (and perhaps future) restaurant Graaf van Egmond, housed in a 16th-century mansion. Below the shuttered restaurant, at Korenlei 24, is another, the equally venerable and atmospheric Crypte. An adjoining step-gabled 16th-century house of red bricks at no. 23, dubbed De Lintworm (the Tapeworm), was formerly the Brewers’ Guild House. The stunning Marriott Ghent Hotel has installed itself in a bunch of restored guild houses, with the main entrance at no. 10. Next door, the redbrick, step-gabled building called De Swaene (the Swans), at no. 9, a former brewery from 1609, has a pair of gilded swan medallions on the facade. It later (though not any more) housed that vital installation in any self-respecting harbor district—a bordello. 165

At no. 7 is the pink-and-white-shaded Gildehuis van de Onvrije Schippers (Guild House of the Tied Boatmen) . Dating from 1739 and dubbed Den Ancker (the Anchor), it is a masterpiece of Flemish baroque architecture and has on the roof a gilded sailing ship weathervane. This was the proud symbol of the rivals to the Free Boatmen, whose home base lay just across the Leie on Graslei (see above). Note the carved dolphins and lions on the facade, and the graceful bell gable. Inside is the chic restaurant Allegro Moderato and, at ground level, a bar called De Onvrije Schipper, which spreads a terrace out onto the quay next to a tour-boat dock.

MORE ATTRACTIONS & PLACES OF INTEREST

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Ghent’s large Stadhuis (Town Hall), Botermarkt/Hoogpoort (& 09/223-99-22; tram: 1 or 4), turns a rather plain Renaissance profile to Botermarkt and an almost garishly ornamented Gothic face to Hoogpoort. Its appearance came about because construction, begun in 1518, was interrupted, began again at the end of the century, halted once more in the early 1600s, and wasn’t completed until the 18th century. The changing public tastes of those years are reflected in the building’s styles. In its Pacificatiezaal (Pacification Room), the Pacification of Ghent was signed in 1567. This document declared the repudiation by the Low Countries provinces of Spanish Habsburg rule and their intention to permit freedom of religion within their boundaries, a progressive ideal that didn’t stand the test of time. May to October, the Town Hall can be visited on guided tours that depart from the tourist office in the Belfry cellar Monday to Thursday at 2:30pm; the tour costs 4€ per person. Vrijdagmarkt Ghent’s main square—huge, tree shaded, ever bustling—is surrounded by old guild houses and mansions, most of which these days host restaurants and cafes that sprout sidewalk terraces when the sun shines. In addition, Vrijdagmarkt (Friday Market Sq.) is the scene of lively street markets on Friday (7:30am–1pm) and Saturday (11am– 6:30pm), as well as the Sunday bird market (7am–1pm). Throughout the city’s long history, when trouble erupted in Ghent, as it so often did, Vrijdagmarkt was nearly always the rallying point, and until 1863 it was a venue for public executions. But there were also jousting tournaments, parades, and other happy events. When the future Habsburg Emperor Charles V was born in Ghent during the bitterly cold winter of 1500, the square was flooded so that the populace could skate on the ice. The bronze statue of Jacob van Artevelde (1863) is a tribute to a 14th-century rebel leader. Its base is adorned with the shields of 52 medieval guilds and four female figures representing the maids of Flanders, Ghent, Bruges, and Ypres (Ieper). Van Artevelde was assassinated amid scenes of factional violence on “Evil Monday” in 1345 that saw the Vrijdagmarkt heaped with corpses. A curiously shaped, step-gabled building is on the square’s east side (nos. 33–36), incorporating a round tower. This is the 15th-century Gildenhuis van de Huidevetters (Tanners’ Guild House), and the guild’s talisman—a mermaid—forms the weathervane on top. A poetry society now occupies the building. The round tower, dubbed the Toreken (Little Tower), was once used by the city’s cloth commission. Any bolt of cloth that didn’t pass muster was hung from a metal ring on the outside of the tower for all to see. What was then the commission’s own premises, the Lakenmetershuis (Cloth Measurers’ House; 1770), stands on the square’s north side at no. 25.

Ghent

Patershol Few traditional sights clutter the small yet beguiling Patershol neighborhood that lies just west of the center of town, along the west bank of the Leie River and north of the Lieve Canal. Yet the area is charming and provides an authentic taste of Old Ghent; about 100 of its buildings are protected monuments. The district’s name comes from the monks of the Caermersklooster (Carmelite Monastery), founded in the 13th century and expanded over the centuries, which still stands (more or less) on Vrouwebroersstraat. The 16th- to 17th-century monastery church now houses the Provinciaal Centrum voor Kunst en Cultuur (Provincial Art and Cultural Center). Don’t let that provincial tag put you off—it means the facility belongs to East Flanders province and is not a comment on the quality of the exhibits. The center is open Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 5pm; admission is free. Patershol’s nest of narrow, pedestrianized streets and tightly packed small brick houses replaced the medieval tanners’ quarter and was built in the 17th century for the city’s weavers, craftsmen, and tradesmen. This modest nature remains even though renewal and gentrification were carried out in the 1980s. A new generation of entrepreneurs has revitalized the old neighborhood (which had degenerated into a slum and red-light district), turning some of the little houses into trendy restaurants, bustling cafes, and offbeat stores. The number of these is regulated, so as not to destroy Patershol’s residential character. Still, its “indigenous” residents are alive and well and show no sign of succumbing to the gentrification going on around them.

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On the west side is the remarkable Ons Huis (Our House). This approximately Art Nouveau confection, dating from 1902, was headquarters of the Ghent Socialist Workers society Vooruit (Forward). Still spelled out (in Dutch) in large gold letters on the facade is Karl Marx’s famous call to proletarian solidarity: werklieden aller landen vereenigt u (workers of the world unite). Ons Huis is now the offices of a local welfare organization. Among the most notable of Vrijdagmarkt’s multifarious eateries and drinkeries are the restaurant Keizershof at no. 47 (p.170) and, a few doors along, the cafe Dulle Griet at no. 50 (see “Ghent After Dark,” below). Off the west end of Vrijdagmarkt, a smaller square, Groot Kanonplein, is named after the large red cannon, Dulle Griet (Mad Meg), emplaced there. Measuring more than 5m (16 ft.) and weighing in at 16,400 kilograms (18 tons), it served in the 1400s during military operations of the Burgundian dukes but cracked a century later while defending Protestant Ghent against a besieging Spanish Catholic army.

Kouter This large, sober square (tram: 1, 21, or 22) south of the city center dates from the 18th century and has a quite different look compared to Ghent’s Old Flemish squares. On the south face, the rococo Hoofdwacht (Guard House; 1739), designed by local architect David ’t Kindt, was originally a barracks of the Austrian Imperial Guard. It later became the city’s Handelsbeurs (Commercial Exchange) and is now a concert hall, HA’, Kouter 29 (& 09/265-9165; www.handelsbeurs.be), which features classical, jazz, rock, folk, and world music. A highlight in the elegant interior is an ultracool cafe-restaurant, likewise called HA’. Across the square at no. 172, the rococo Hotel Falligan (1755) is fronted by Corinthian columns. A pair of sculptures dating from 1884 on the mansion’s ocher 167

THE good

GHENT & ANTWERP

Ghent

news FROM GHENT

On Christmas Eve 1814, John Quincy Adams, the future sixth president of the United States, signed the Treaty of Ghent that brought to an end the War of 1812 with Great Britain. Peace came too late to save the White House, though: Along with most other public buildings in Washington, DC, it was burned by the British when they captured the city in August 1814 and chased President James Madison out of his capital. It took weeks for word of the treaty to cross the Atlantic, affording Andrew

Jackson time to exact a measure of revenge by repelling the British assault on New Orleans in January 1815. Adams and the other U.S. peace commissioners resided at the Hotel Schamp, an 18th-century baroque mansion at Veldstraat 45–47, south of Korenmarkt. The building now houses a tobacconist and a fashion store, and sports a 1964 plaque from the United States Daughters of 1812, thanking the people of Ghent for their hospitality to the U.S. delegation.

facade paradoxically have Apollo, the god of the arts, wielding a bow, and Diana, the goddess of hunting, with a harp. The building houses a private society, the Club des Nobles, that doesn’t permit tours of the opulent interior. Sunday is Grote Bloemenmarkt (Big Flower Market) day on Kouter, from 7am to 1pm. On the same day in summer, the bandstand (1878) occasionally hosts concerts. As you stroll the central part of the square, you’ll notice that the central sculptured bronze leaf by contemporary U.S. artist Jessica Diamond is accompanied by other bronze leaves embedded in the stones—each leaf is pictured in Jan van Eyck’s Adoration of the Mystic Lamb altarpiece in St. Bavo’s Cathedral.

SIGHTSEEING TOURS The tourist office can arrange qualified guides for private walking tours at a charge of 55€ per person for the first 2 hours (Mon–Fri) and 25€ for each additional hour. Ask them about organized group-walking tours sometimes conducted during summer months at a fee of 7€ for adults and free for children 11 and under (admission to view The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb in St. Bavo’s Cathedral is included). on the canals with De Bootjes van Gent-Rederij Dewaele A cruise (&09/223-88-53; www.debootjesvangent.be; tram: 1 or 4) is a good way to view the city’s highlights. Tour boats sail from Graslei and Korenlei, April to October daily from 10am to 6pm and November to March on weekends from 11am to 4pm, for a basic 40-minute city tour. Cruises begin at 6€ for adults; 5.50€ for seniors, students, and ages 13 to 25; 3.50€ for children 3 to 12; and free for children 2 and under. Longer tours are available. From Easter to October, tours by horse-drawn carriage offered by De Koetsen van Gent (&0475/82-16-20; www.koetsenvangent.be; tram: 1 or 4) depart from Sint-Baafsplein and Korenlei from 10am to 6pm for half-hour rides that cost 25€ per coach (for four to five passengers).

Where to Stay EXPENSIVE The entrance to this lovely mansion—built in 1865 as the home of a Ghent textile baron—is through an old carriageway (made up of ornamented

Gravensteen 168

pillars and a wall niche occupied by a marble statue), which sets the tone for what’s inside. The elegant, high-ceilinged parlor is a sophisticated blend of pastels, gracious modern furnishings, and antiques, with a small bar tucked into one corner. The rooms are attractive and comfortably furnished. Those in front look out on the moated Gravensteen castle (p.162), while those to the back have city views. A top-floor lookout has windows that afford fine city views. Jan Breydelstraat 35 (close to the Castle of the Counts), 9000 Gent. &09/225-11-50. Fax 09/225-1850. www.gravensteen.be. 49 units. 126€–210€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 10€. Tram: 1 or 4 to Gravensteen. Amenities: Bar; lounge; exercise room; sauna. In room: A/C in some units, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (12€/24 hr.).

MODERATE

Ghent

Hoogpoort 63 (at Botermarkt), 9000 Gent. &09/233-33-31. Fax 09/233-11-02. www.nh-hotels.com. 172 units. 104€–245€ double; 315€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. Tram: 1 or 4 to Sint-Niklaasstraat. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; executive rooms; health club; room service. Inroom: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (11€/24 hr.).

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NH Gent Belfort If you like to experience historical towns while sleeping in modern and comfortable accommodations, this might be the place for you. The chain’s often bland style is mitigated here—it was designed to at least partly fit into its venerable surroundings, and it sits atop medieval cellars and foundations. Plus, it’s set in an ideal location just across the road from Town Hall, within easy distance of the city’s premier tourist attractions. The rooms have most of the level of style and comforts expected by international business travelers. Belgian specialties and international dishes are served in the Van Artevelde Brasserie, and outside on the patio in good weather; drinks are served in the cellar bar.

Erasmus Each room is different in this converted pair of 17th-century Flemish mansions, and all are plush, furnished with antiques and knickknacks. Rooms have high oak-beam ceilings, and bathrooms are modern. Some rooms have leaded-glass windows, some overlook a carefully manicured inner garden, and some have elaborate marble fireplaces. You can, if you so choose, hide yourself away in the attic den. Breakfast is served in an impressive room that would have pleased the counts of Flanders, as well as in the garden—weather permitting. Poel 25 (off Sint-Michielsstraat), 9000 Gent. &09/224-21-95. Fax 09/233-42-41. www.erasmushotel. be. 11 units. 99€–150€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 1 or 4 to Korenmarkt. Amenities: Bar. Inroom: TV, hair dryer.

INEXPENSIVE The facilities and atmosphere at this hotel have taken a big leap forward in recent years, and an ongoing upgrading and renovation program continue the story, yet the rates remain reasonable. Rooms are spacious and brightly decorated, with contemporary furnishings that don’t have any great pretention to being stylish. You’ll find it to be a comfortable, if not luxurious, experience.

Adoma

Sint-Denijslaan 19 (behind Gent-Sint-Pieters rail station), 9000 Gent. &09/222-65-50. Fax 09/24509-37. www.hotel-adoma.be. 15 units. 67€–92€ double. MC, V. Free parking. Tram: 21 or 22 to SintDenijslaan. Inroom: TV.

Eden You climb a flight of stairs in this personable small hotel to reach the reception, where an elevator awaits you. Each of the decent-size guest rooms has a wall tapestry, adding an old-fashioned Flemish touch to rooms that otherwise have mostly functional furnishings, such as faux-leather armchairs, and are painted in pastel tones. A toilet, basin, and shower are crammed into the smallest bathrooms; 169

larger ones have a bathtub. The hotel stands on a busy street with easy access to the center of town and is close to shops, bars, and restaurants—and to Ghent’s small red-light district, though you likely won’t even be aware of this if you stick to the main drag. Rooms at the back are quieter than those at the front. Zuidstationstraat 24 (at Sint-Annaplein), 9000 Gent. &09/223-51-51. Fax 09/233-34-57. www.eden online.be. 29 units. 70€–115€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC, V. Parking 7.50€. Tram: 21 or 22 to Gent-Zuid. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Dine EXPENSIVE SEAFOOD/FRENCH High honors go to this exquisite restaurant on a quaint street near the Castle of the Counts. Its interior is a garden delight of greenery, white napery, and light woods. Proprietors Louis and Pat Hellebaut see to it that dishes issued from their kitchen are as light as the setting, with delicate sauces and seasonings enhancing fresh ingredients. Seafood and regional specialties like the traditional Ghent souplike fish stew waterzooï are all superb. Dine in summer on an outdoor terrace beside the confluence of the Leie River and the Lieve canal, next to a pretty little garden called Appelbrug Parkje.

Jan Breydel

GHENT & ANTWERP

Ghent

Jan Breydelstraat 10 (facing Design museum Gent). & 09/225-62-87. www.janbreydel.com. Main courses 19€–33€; fixed-price menus 32€–48€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon 7–10pm; Tues–Sat noon–2pm and 7–10pm. Tram: 1 or 4 to Korenmarkt.

MODERATE Brasserie Pakhuis FLEMISH/CONTINENTAL In a beautifully restored 19th-century warehouse down a narrow lane, this see-and-be-seen hangout is replete with painted cast-iron pillars, green pipes and tubing, ceiling fans, track lighting, soaring wrought-iron balconies, oak and marble tables with specially designed table settings, and a granite mosaic floor. Although a bit too conscious of its own sense of style, Pakhuis is stocked in matters of taste. The oyster and seafood platters are notable, and you won’t go wrong with meat-based offerings like baked ham in a mustard sauce, or Flemish favorites like chicken waterzooï and garnaalkroketten (shrimp croquettes). Outside of lunch and dinner times, join the local smart set for afternoon tea or a late-night drink at the curving oak-and-riveted-copper bar. Schuurkenstraat 4 (off Veldstraat). &09/223-55-55. www.pakhuis.be. Main courses 11€–21€; fixedprice lunch 13€, dinner 26€–42€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–1am; Fri–Sat 11:30am–2am (full meals at lunch and dinner only). Tram: 1 or 4 to Korenmarkt.

BELGIAN/CONTINENTAL Despite being modern in tone and, to an extent, in cuisine by offering plenty of salads and other light fare, Keizershof is too smart to let you miss out on traditional Belgian standbys like Gentse stoverij (Ghent stew) and mosselen (mussels). Convivial and trendy, this place on the garish market square has an attractively informal ambience and a positive price-to-quality ratio. Behind its narrow, 17th-century baroque facade, even a capacity crowd of 150 diners can seem sparsely dispersed at the plain wood tables on multiple floors around a central stairwell. The decor beneath the timber ceiling beams is spare, tastefully tattered, and speckled with paintings by local artists. Service for office workers doing lunch is fast but not furious; in the evenings, you’re encouraged to linger. In summertime dine alfresco in a courtyard at the back.

Keizershof

Vrijdagmarkt 47. &09/223-44-46. www.keizershof.net. Main courses 14€–21€. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–2:30pm and 6–11pm. Tram: 1 or 4 to Geldmunt.

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INEXPENSIVE Amadeus RIBS/CONTINENTAL

Sure, there are vegetarian and fish plates, but all of Ghent comes to this venerable institution in the Patershol district for the allyou-can-eat spareribs dinner: a slab of cooked ribs with a choice of sauces and a baked potato. If you’re up to it, order another and another and another. A bottle of wine is on the table, and you pay only for what you drink from it. The decor is a sumptuous mix of Old Flemish and Art Nouveau with burnished wood, mirrors, and colored glass, and the ambience is relaxed.

Plotersgracht 8–10 (at Hertogstraat). &09/225-13-85. www.amadeusspareribrestaurant.be. Main courses 13€–17€; spareribs dinner 14€. MC, V. Mon–Thurs 6:30–11pm; Sat–Sun 6–11;30pm. Tram: 1 or 4 to Geldmunt.

Ghent After Dark

THE PERFORMING ARTS

BARS & TAVERNS

Antwerp

In typical Flemish fashion, Ghent’s favorite after-dark entertainment is frequenting atmospheric cafes and taverns. You should have a memorable evening in any one you choose. At the Old Flemish tavern Herberg de Dulle Griet, Vrijdagmarkt 50 (&09/224-24-55; www.dullegriet.be; tram: 1 or 4), you’ll be asked to deposit one of your shoes before being given a potent Kwak beer in the too-collectible glass, which comes with a wood frame that allows the glass to stand up—you, too, might need artificial support if you drink too many of this or any of the other 250 different beers in stock. The smallest building on Graslei, the former Toll House, is now a nice little tavern called Het Tolhuisje, Graslei 11 (&09/224-30-90; tram: 1 or 4). Groentenmarkt, near the Gravensteen, makes for a good pub crawl in an easily navigable area. In an old canal house, Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant, Groentenmarkt 9 (& 09/225-06-80; www.waterhuisaandebierkant.be; tram: 1 or 4), has more than 100 different Belgian beers, including locally made Stopken. Of all the gin joints in town, ’t Dreupelkot, Groentenmarkt 12 (&09/224-21-20; www.dreupelkot.be; tram: 1 or 4), has to be the best. Ask owner Paul to recommend one of his 100 or so varieties of jenever (a stiff spirit similar to gin), served in tiny (but deadly) glassfuls. Or walk straight in and boldly go for a 64-proof Jonge Hertekamp or a 72-proof Pekèt de Houyeu. If they don’t knock you down, you may be up for an 8-year-old 100-proof Filliers Oude Graanjenever or a 104-proof Hoogspanning. Across the tramlines, ’t Galgenhuisje, Groentenmarkt 5 (& 09/233-42-51; tram: 1 or 4), the oldest drinking spot in town, is an intimate place popular with students.

GHENT & ANTWERP

From October to mid-June, international opera is performed in the 19th-century De Vlaamse Opera, Schouwburgstraat 3 (& 09/268-10-11; www.vlaamseopera.be; tram: 1, 21, or 22). Ghent venues for those marvelous Belgian puppet shows are the folklore museum (see earlier in this chapter), Het Huis van Alijn, Kraanlei 65 (&09/269-23-50; www.huisvanalijn.be; tram: 1 or 4), and Teater Taptoe, Abrahamstraat 15 (&09/223-67-58; www.theatertaptoe.be).

ANTWERP 48km (30 miles) N of Brussels; 51km (32 miles) NE of Ghent

Until a few years ago, Antwerp (pop. 475,000) was one of Western Europe’s most hidden gems. Its reputation as a port and diamond trade center is well deserved, but that’s far from being all there is to say about this lively, sophisticated, and—in parts—seedy 171

Brussels

ATTRACTIONS Aquatopia 11 De Steen 2 Diamantkwartier 22 Diamantmuseum 10 Grote Markt 4 Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Kunsten Antwerpen 23 ModeMuseum Provincie Antwerpen-MoMu 18 Onze-LieveVrouwekathedraal 13 Museum Plantin-Moretus– Prentenkabinet 17 Museum Vleeshuis 1 Rubenshuis 20 Sint-Jacobskerk 9 Stadhuis 3 Zoo Antwerpen 21

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city. The capital town (Antwerpen in Dutch; Anvers in French) of Antwerpen province boasts monuments from its wealthy medieval, Renaissance, and baroque periods; a magnificent cathedral; a fine-arts museum full of Old Flemish masterpieces; a maze of medieval streets in the center of town; and a vibrant nightlife and cultural scene. Given all this, it’s no surprise that international visitors to Belgium have been remedying their former neglect of the city. The new trend is to pour in from all over, to soak up everything Antwerp has to offer.

Essentials GETTING THERE BY PLANE Brussels Airport is the main international airport for Antwerp (see

GHENT & ANTWERP

Antwerp

“Orientation,” in chapter 6). Only a very few scheduled international flights arrive at Antwerp Airport (& 03/285-65-00; www.antwerp-airport.be), at Deurne, 7km (41⁄2 miles) east of the city. De Lijn bus no. 14 shuttles between the airport and Rooseveltplein, close to Antwerp Centraal Station, in around 20 minutes. Taxi fare to downtown is around 15€. BY TRAIN Antwerp’s two stations are Antwerpen Centraal Station, 1.5km (1 mile) east of the Grote Markt, on the edge of the center city, and AntwerpenBerchem, 4km (21⁄2 miles) south of the city center. Antwerp is on the Thalys highspeed train network that connects Paris, Cologne, Brussels, and Amsterdam; most Thalys trains stop at Berchem, but a few go to Centraal Station. For schedule and fare information, and for all train reservations, contact Belgian Railways (&02/528-2828; www.b-rail.be). Antwerpen Centraal Station is a domed, cathedral-like edifice dating from 1905, and it was recently refurbished. A 2009 article in Newsweek magazine named the station the world’s fourth most beautiful (behind London’s St. Pancras, New York’s Grand Central, and Mumbai’s Chhatrapati Shivaji). BY BUS Eurolines international buses arrive and depart from a bus stop at van Stralenstraat 8, a short distance northwest of Centraal Station. BY CAR Major roads connecting to Antwerp’s R1 Ring Expressway (beltway) are A1/E19 from Brussels via Mechelen and from Amsterdam; A12 from Brussels via Laeken; A14/E17 from Ghent; and N49 from Knokke, Bruges, and Zeebrugge. VISITOR INFORMATION

Toerisme Antwerpen, Grote Markt 13, 2000 Antwerpen (&03/232-01-03; fax 03/231-19-37; www.antwerpen.be; tram: 2, 3, 4, 8, or 15) is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5:45pm, Sunday and holidays from 9am to 4:45pm (closed Jan 1 and Dec 25). An Info Desk at Centraal Station is open the same hours as the main tourist office.

Impressions The art is amazing, and it’s everywhere you look; the fashion scene is vibrant, and the design is gorgeous; there’s a cool café culture, and the streets are practically paved with diamonds. When

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you think about it, there’s not much about Antwerp that is less than totally adorable. . . . Antwerp is the secret city with sex appeal. Vanity Fair, April 2009

THE SEVERED hand OF ANTWERP fingertips, and who resented tolls of any size. Historians tell a different story, that after Viking raiders erased an original settlement in 836, the surviving populace moved to a more defensible mound, or aanwerp, where the Steen castle was later built. But to the people who live here, the severed, bleeding “Red Hand of Antwerp” is the symbol of their city. Two statues commemorate the Roman’s act of revenge, and replicas of the giant’s hand appear in everything from chocolate to brass.

GETTING AROUND

Antwerp

Antwerp is a good place to walk around. Its major sightseeing attractions are easily reached from one major street that changes its name as it goes along: Italiëlei, Frankrijklei, Britselei, and Amerikalei. Most sights are within easy walking distance of the center of town, but if the cobblestone streets start to bother your feet, hop onto a tram. Besides walking, the tram is the best way to get around the city. The most useful trams for tourists are lines 2, 3, 5, and 15, which run between Centraal Station and Groenplaats, near the cathedral; and lines 10 and 11, which run past the Grote Markt. Public transportation information is available from a kiosk inside Centraal Station and from De Lijn (&070/22-02-00; www.delijn.be). Purchase your ticket from a De Lijn sales point or automat before boarding and you’ll pay less (the “twin” prices listed here reflect this distinction). An enkele rit (oneway) ticket costs 1.20€/1.60€ for two zones and 2€/3€ for three or more zones. A dagkaart (day card), valid for the entire city network, costs 5€/6€ for 1 day, 10€/12€ for 3 days, and 15€/18€ for 5 days. A 1-day pass for children 6 to 11 is 1.50€/2€. Children 5 and under ride free. The people to call for a taxi are Antwerp Tax (&03/238-38-38; www.antwerptax.be).

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A legend of ancient days tells of a giant named Druon Antigon, who levied exorbitant tolls on every Scheldt boatman who passed his castle. If anyone would not pay up, the big man cut off the miscreant’s hand and threw it into the river. Druon’s comeuppance came from a Roman centurion, Silvius Brabo, who slew the giant and cut off his hand and threw it into the river. The Flemish handwerpen (throwing a hand) eventually became Antwerpen. This explanation had a certain appeal to citizens who were traders to their

Seeing the Sights The most colorful part of Antwerp is the medieval Old Town that fans out from the Grote Markt in a warren of winding streets. South of there, on the streets around Vlaamsekaai and Waalsekaai, is a fascinating district of shipping warehouses renovated into trendy bars, restaurants, and art galleries.

THE TOP ATTRACTIONS Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Kunsten Antwerpen (Antwerp Royal Museum of Fine Arts) Housed in this impressive neoclassical building is

the KMSKA’s world-class collection of paintings by Flemish Masters. More masterpieces by Peter Paul Rubens are here than anywhere else, including frescoes by the artist in the marble entrance hall. To view Rubens’s paintings, pass through the 175

ground-floor exhibits of modern artists’ canvases (including works by Belgian artists René Magritte, James Ensor, Constant Permeke, and Paul Delvaux) and ascend to the second floor, where you’ll find Rubens, along with the Flemish Old Masters Jan van Eyck, Rogier van der Weyden, Dirck Bouts, German-born Hans Memling, Peter Bruegel the Elder and his several younger Brueghel (with an “h”) relatives, and the Dutch Old Masters Rembrandt and Frans Hals. All told, these walls hold paintings spanning 5 centuries. Leopold de Waelplaats 2 (at Museumstraat). &03/238-78-09. www.kmska.be. Admission 6€ adults, 4€ students, 1€ ages 19–25, free for seniors and children 18 and under. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 10am– 6pm. Closed Jan 1–2 and Dec 25. Tram: 8 to Museum.

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Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal (Cathedral of Our Lady) A masterpiece of the Brabant-Gothic architectural style, this towering edifice is the largest church in the Low Countries. There are seven aisles and 125 pillars in the cathedral, but of the original design’s five towers, only one was completed. This one is the tallest church spire in the Low Countries, 123m (404 ft.) high, and the idea that the designers could have planned to construct five such behemoths is a graphic indication of the wealth and power of Antwerp at that time. Begun in 1352 and completed by around 1520, it stands on the site of a 10th-century chapel dedicated to the Virgin that later grew to be a church in the Romanesque style. The cathedral’s history included a destructive fire in 1533, devastation by Protestant rebels during the religious wars of the 16th century, deconsecration by anticlerical French revolutionaries in 1794 (resulting in the removal of its Rubens paintings), and a slow rebirth that began after Napoleon’s final defeat in 1815. Its interior embellishment is a mix of baroque and neoclassical. Today the cathedral houses four Rubens masterpieces, all of them altarpieces: The Raising of the Cross (1610), The Descent from the Cross (1614), The Resurrection (1612), and Assumption of the Virgin (1626). Also outstanding is Nicolas Rombouts’s Last Supper (1503), an impressive stained-glass window. Among many other notable Mean Streets works of art is a superb Madonna and Child (ca. 1350) in Carrrara marble by The area around Centraal Station, east the anonymous Master of the Maasof De Keyserlei and Koningin Astridland Marble Madonnas. During July plein, is more than a little seedy and and August, the cathedral bells peal has problems with drug dealing and out in a carillon concert on Sunday prostitution. from 3 to 4pm and on Monday from 8 to 9pm. Groenplaats 21 (at Handschoenmarkt). &03/213-99-51. www.dekathedraal.be. Admission 5€ adults, 3€ seniors and students, free for children 11 and under. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat 10am–3pm; Sun and religious holidays 1–4pm. Closed to tourist visits during services. Tram: 2, 3, 5, or 15 to Groenplaats.

Touch Antwerp’s cultural heart at the house where Antwerp’s most illustrious son, the artist Peter Paul Rubens (1577–1640), lived and worked. Far from being the stereotypical starving artist, Rubens amassed a tidy fortune from his paintings that allowed him to build this impressive mansion in 1610, along what was then a canal, when he was 33. Today you stroll past the baroque portico into its reconstructed period rooms and through a Renaissance garden, and you come away with a good idea of the lifestyle of a patrician Flemish gentleman of that era. Examples of Rubens’s works, and others by Master painters who were his contemporaries, are sprinkled throughout. In the dining room, look for a self-portrait

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painted when he was 47 years old, and in another room a portrait of Anthony van Dyck as a boy. Rubens collected Roman sculpture, and some of the pieces in his sculpture gallery appear—reproduced in amazing detail—in his paintings. Don’t just stay inside the house: The superb, restored ornamental garden is well worth a stroll around and a nice place to take a breather in fine weather. Wapper 9–11 (off Meir). & 03/201-15-55. www.rubenshuis.be. Admission 6€ adults; 4€ ages 19–26; free for seniors, visitors with disabilities and companion, and children 18 and under; free for all visitors last Wed of month. Tues–Sun (also Easter Mon and Pentecost Mon) 10am–5pm. Closed Jan 1–2, May 1, Ascension Day, Nov 1–2, and Dec 25–26. Tram: 2, 3, 5, or 15 to Meir.

AROUND THE GROTE MARKT

Around the square and on nearby streets are fine examples of 16th-century guild houses. One worth a visit is this magnificent Gothic structure. It functions now as a museum of archaeology, ceramics, arms, religious art, sculpture, musical instruments, coins, and medieval furnishings. The collections give a good general idea of daily life in Antwerp during the 16th century, as do the historical paintings (look for the striking The Spanish Fury, picturing Antwerp’s darkest hour).

Museum Vleeshuis (Butcher’s Hall Museum)

Antwerp

Grote Markt. &03/221-13-33. Free guided tours Mon–Wed and Fri–Sat 2pm and 3pm (council business permitting). Tram: 10 or 11 to Sint-Katelijne.

8 GHENT & ANTWERP

A lively 16th-century square lined with sidewalk cafes and restaurants, the Grote Markt, though not quite as dramatic as Brussels’s Grand-Place, is no less the focus of the city’s everyday life. The fountain in the middle recalls the city’s founding legend of Druon and Brabo. Stadhuis (City Hall) The Renaissance City Hall (1561–65), designed by Cornelius Floris de Vriendt, is an outstanding example of the Flemish mannerism that replaced the formerly supreme Gothic style. It was burned during the city’s sack by Spanish troops in 1576, an episode the city still recalls with a shiver as the “Spanish Fury,” and then rebuilt as you see it now. Look for the frescoes by Hendrik Leys, a 19th-century Antwerp painter; murals; and, in the burgomaster’s chamber, an impressive 16th-century fireplace.

Vleeshouwersstraat 38–40. & 03/292-61-00. www.museumvleeshuis.be. Admission 5€ adults; 3€ ages 19–26; free for seniors, visitors with disabilities and companion, and children 18 and under; free for all visitors last Wed of month. Tues–Sun (also Easter Mon and Pentecost Mon) 10am–5pm. Closed Jan 1–2, May 1, Ascension Day, Nov 1–2, and Dec 25–26. Tram: 10 or 11 to Sint-Katelijne.

MORE ATTRACTIONS WORTH A VISIT The collections of the Antwerp Province Fashion Museum consist of clothing, lace, embroidery, fabrics, and tools for textile processing dating back to the 16th century, complemented with pieces by contemporary Belgian designers, some of them highly touted. “MoMu” combines a varied exhibits policy with publications, a library and spacious public reading room, lectures, conferences, workshops, and movies. Together with the Flanders Fashion Institute (FFI) and the renowned fashion department of the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts, the museum is housed in the beautifully restored 19thcentury ModeNatie building in the cultural and historical heart of town.

ModeMuseum Provincie Antwerpen-MoMu

Nationalestraat 28 (at Drukkerijstraat). & 03/470-27-70. www.momu.be. Admission 7€ adults, 5€ students and seniors, 1€ visitors with disabilities and companion, and ages 12–25, free for children 11 and under. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Closed Jan 1–2 and Dec 25–26, early closing Dec 24 and Dec 31. Tram: 4 or 8 to Kammenstraat.

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Printer Christoffle Plantin established a workshop in this stately patrician mansion in 1555. Its output included an astonishing multilanguage (Hebrew, Greek, Syriac, Latin, and Aramaic) edition of the Bible, and translations of other great works of literature. Plantin’s grandson, Balthasar Moretus, was a contemporary and close friend of Rubens, who illustrated many of the books published by the Plantin-Moretus workshop and painted the family portraits you see displayed here. The museum’s exhibits include an antique Librorium Prohibitorum, a catalog of books proscribed by the church as being unsuitable for pious eyes.

Museum Plantin-Moretus-Prentenkabinet

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Vrijdagmarkt 22–23. &03/221-14-50. www.museumplantinmoretus.be. Admission 6€ adults; 1€ ages 19–26; free for seniors, visitors with disabilities and their companion, and children 18 and under; free for all visitors last Wed of month. Tues–Sun (also Easter Mon and Pentecost Mon) 10am–5pm. Closed Jan 1–2, May 1, Ascension Day, Nov 1–2, and Dec 25–26. Tram: 2, 3, 5, or 15 to Groenplaats.

A short walk north from the Rubens House, this flamboyant Gothic church with a baroque interior is the final resting place of the artist Peter Paul Rubens (1577–1640). His vault is in the Rubens Chapel, one of seven chapels bordering the opulent semicircular ambulatory behind the high altar. Several of Rubens’s works are here, as are some by Antoon van Dyck and other prominent artists. Rubens is joined in his eternal slumber by a glittering array of Antwerp’s one-time high and mighty, and a glittering collection of gold and silver religious objects.

Sint-Jacobskerk (St. James’s Church)

Lange Nieuwstraat 73–75 (at Sint-Jacobsstraat). &03/232-10-32. www.topa.be. Admission 2€ adults, free for children 11 and under. Apr–Oct daily 2–5pm. Closed to tourist visits during services. Tram: 10 or 11 to Sint-Jacob.

ANTWERP’S PORT When you come down to it, if there were no Schelde (Scheldt) River, there would be no Antwerp. The city’s prime location just above the point where the river meets the tidal Westerchelde (Western Scheldt) Estuary made it an important port as far back

THE diamond TRADE The raw facts and figures are sparkling enough: 80% of the world’s rough diamonds, 50% of its cut diamonds, and 40% of its industrial diamonds are traded here annually—together they’re valued at around $10 billion. Antwerp is the world’s leading market for cut diamonds and second only to London as an outlet for raw and industrial diamonds. The trade, with its diamond cutters and polishers, workshops, brokers, and merchants, is centered on the city’s Diamantkwartier (Diamond Quarter), a surprisingly down-at-the-heels-looking area, only steps away from Centraal Station. It is supervised by the Antwerp World Diamond Center and is mostly, though not exclusively, run by members of the city’s Hasidic Jewish community.

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In addition to perusing the stores and visiting a workshop (see “Shopping,” later in this chapter), a good place to get close to the city’s diamond trade is the Diamantmuseum (Diamond Museum), Koningin Astridplein 19–23 (& 03/202-48-90; www. provant.be; Métro: Diamant or Astrid). Exhibits trace the history, geology, mining, and cutting of diamonds. Diamond-cutting and polishing demonstrations are on Saturday from 1:30 to 4:30pm. The museum is open Thursday to Tuesday (and Wed when national holiday) from 10am to 5:30pm (closed Jan 1–2 and Dec 25–26). Admission is 6€ for adults, 4€ for seniors and ages 12 to 25, and free for children 11 and under.

as the 2nd century b.c. Antwerp was a trading station of the powerful medieval Hanseatic League but, unlike Bruges, did not have the status of a full-fledged Kontor, with its own separate district and mercantile installations. In the early days, ships moored along the city’s own wharves, where the Steen (see below) stands; nowadays the port has moved 13km (8 miles) downstream to huge excavated docks that jam up against the Dutch border. Antwerp is Europe’s second biggest port (after Rotterdam) for goods handled, and the third biggest (after Rotterdam and Hamburg) for containers. The port is well worth a visit, if only to appreciate its vast size. On the waterfront in the center of town, Antwerp’s oldest building, De Steen (The Castle) , Steenplein 1 (at the Scheldt River), is a glowering 13th-century fortress on the banks of the Scheldt, just along the street from the Grote Markt.

ESPECIALLY FOR KIDS

GHENT & ANTWERP Antwerp

Futuristic Aquatopia, Koningin Astridplein 7 (&03/205-07-40; www.aquatopia. be; Métro: Centraal Station), in the Park Plaza Astrid Antwerp building, has 40 aquaria filled with around a million liters (264,172 gal.) of saltwater and houses 3,500 marine creatures, from sea horses to sharks. Tropical rainforests, mangroves, wetlands, coral reefs, the ocean floor—all, and more, are featured. No doubt your The Belgian Muppets biggest thrill will be walking through a clear-walled “shark tunnel” while Take the kids to the delightful Koninkliwatching smallish examples of these jke Poppenschouwburg (Royal Puppet toothy fish swimming around you. Theater) van Campen, Lange NieuwMultimedia applications and interacstraat 3 (&03/237-37-16; www.vantive computer displays complement campen.be; tram: 10 or 11), a handsome the live action; even Nemo puts in an little theater with 120 seats, where the appearance. You may want to spend at plot lines are always easy to follow least 2 hours here. Aquatopia is open (even when the language isn’t). daily from 10am to 6pm (closed Dec 25). Admission is 14€ for adults, 9.50€ for seniors and children 3 to 12, free for children 2 and under, and 20€ or 32€ for a family (the price varies according to the size of the family). Zoo Antwerpen This 10-hectare (25-acre) zoo is a great place to take the kids. Its large collection of animals from around the world roam through spaces bounded for the most part by artificial reproductions of natural barriers. There’s an aquarium, winter garden, Egyptian temple (which houses elephants), anthropoid house, museum of natural history, deer parks, Kongo peacock habitat, and planetarium. The zoo is something of an Art Nouveau masterpiece, though whether or not the animals appreciate this is hard to say.

Koningin Astridplein 26 (just east of Centraal Station). & 03/202-45-40. www.zooantwerpen.be. Admission 20€ adults, 16€ seniors, 14€ visitors with disabilities and companion and children 3–11, free for children 2 and under. Jan–Feb and Nov–Dec daily 10am–4:45pm; Mar–Apr and Oct daily 10am– 5:30pm; May–June and Sept daily 10am–6pm; July–Aug daily 10am–7pm. Métro: Centraal Station.

ORGANIZED TOURS From July to September, a daily guided tour of the center city in English (and French) departs at 2pm from the tourist office; the cost is 8€ per person if purchased at departure and 6€ if purchased ahead of time. Beyond this basic introduction, there is a variety of specialized tour options. There are also clearly marked self-guided walks, for which brochures are available from the tourist office.

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Try to take a cruise around Antwerp’s awesome harbor. Departures are from the Scheldt waterfront next to the Steen. Rederij Flandria (&03/231-3100; www.flandria.nu) runs a 21⁄2-hour harbor cruise for 13€ for adults; 11€ for seniors, people with disabilities, and children 3 to 12; and free for children 2 and under. A 50-minute excursion on the river is less interesting but still worthwhile, with halfhourly departures during summer months, for 5€ for adults and free for children 2 and under. BY BUS The Antwerp Diamond Bus (& 02/513-77-44; www.brussels-citytours.com) is a double-decker bus that tours the city’s main sights on a regular circuit. Hop on and hop off at various stops along the way. Tickets, valid for 24 hours, are 11€ for adults, 10€ for seniors and students, 6€ for children 5 to 12, and free for children 4 and under. BY BOAT

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Where to Stay VERY EXPENSIVE De Witte Lelie A centrally located boutique hotel, the “White Lily” is set in three renovated and converted 17th-century gabled town houses with a garden courtyard. The property artfully combines old-fashioned ambience, exposed beams, marble fireplaces, antiques, and impeccable service, with a fine sense of modern style, distinctive design elements, and works of contemporary art. Each of the bright, tastefully furnished rooms has an individual character, and a “less is more” sensibility means that, though on the small side, they are not cluttered. While the white of the hotel’s name is the presiding tone—the luxurious bathrooms are dazzlingly white—color shows up in drapes, rugs, flowers, and other touches. The breakfast room looks out on the courtyard. Keizerstraat 16–18 (close to the Rockoxhuis), 2000 Antwerpen. &03/226-19-66. Fax 03/234-00-19. www.dewittelelie.be. 11 units. 215€ double; 365€–565€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 25€. Tram: 4 or 7 to Keizerstraat. Amenities: Lounge; room service. Inroom: TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

EXPENSIVE Rubens-Grote Markt Only steps away from the Grote Markt, this comfortable hotel with an attentive staff combines the classical elegance of a 16th-century mansion with plush, modern furnishings. The spacious rooms are individually decorated in a style that’s a modern take on old-fashioned coziness, and from some of them you can see the cathedral steeple. Shady rooms are perked up with bright, tropical colors; sunny rooms have more muted, pastel tones. Bathrooms are not large but have marble fittings. Some of the rooms open onto an enclosed garden patio at the rear with an original colonnade, where breakfast is served in the summer; at other times, you breakfast in an elegant dining room with a marble fireplace. Oude Beurs 29 (1 block north of the Grote Markt), 2000 Antwerpen. &03/222-48-48. Fax 03/22519-40. www.hotelrubensantwerp.be. 36 units. 150€–230€ double; 250€–445€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 16€. Tram: 10 or 11 to Melkmarkt. Amenities: Bar; room service. Inroom: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (12€/24 hr.).

MODERATE In a superb, restored Art Deco mansion from 1929, replete with delicate enamel work and Tiffany glass, this family-owned hotel is a bit off the beaten track south of the center city. The Deco elements are offset, and given added warmth, by a wealth of Persian rugs, antiques, and chandeliers. Each of the individually styled rooms is a cozy delight of pastel tones, tasteful furnishings, armchairs or sofas, and

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Room for Misunderstanding A word of warning to budget travelers: The phrase “tourist room,” which in other cities means an accommodations bargain in a private home, means

something rather different in Antwerp— it’s a discreet way of advertising very personal services that have nothing to do with a room for the night.

comfortable beds. Breakfast is served in the garden in fine weather, and having the hotel’s elegant French/Belgian restaurant Minerva just a few steps away should make a trip to one of the center-city eateries for dinner all but superfluous.

Antwerp

Prinse If you like modernity and efficiency in your everyday life, but you’re not averse to mixing this with a dollop of history, this hotel, on a quiet street between Centraal Station and the center of town, might be the place for you. It offers cool modern rooms in a restored 16th-century residence—over-restored, some guests might conclude. The style takes its cue from the modish lobby area and moves on with signature black leather and wood, which some might find a bit impersonal, to other interiors. Yet the effect is softened overall by a friendly, personal ambience, and in the rooms by a hushed atmosphere and comfortable beds and other furnishings. The hotel has both a pleasant terrace and a tranquil courtyard garden.

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Karel Oomsstraat 6 (at Koning Albertpark), 2018 Antwerpen. & 03/237-02-60. Fax 03/238-11-68. www.hotelfirean.com. 15 units. 169€–178€ double; 235€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 14€. Tram: 2 or 6 to Provinciehuis. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. Inroom: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Keizerstraat 63 (at Prinsesstraat), 2000 Antwerpen. &03/226-40-50. Fax 03/225-11-48. www.hotel prinse.be. 33 units. 135€ double; 150€ suite. Rates in suite include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 20€. Tram: 10 or 11 to Sint-Jacob. Amenities: Bar/lounge. Inroom: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

INEXPENSIVE This small, family-owned hotel used to be a residence (1860) of the Belgian cardinal. Perhaps this explains the heavenly atmosphere. The place has a remarkably beautiful interior, with painted ceilings, chandeliers, and a great deal of ornamentation that includes beautiful wood carvings and stained-glass windows. Some of this is Art Nouveau, in a “new” wing that was added to the building in 1910 and includes the breakfast room. The guest rooms are somewhat plainer than the public spaces—with the exception of the Chinese Room—but they’re still comfortably and adequately furnished and tastefully decorated.

Rubenshof

Amerikalei 115–117 (across from the Royal Museum of Fine Arts), 2000 Antwerpen. &03/237-07-89. Fax 03/248-25-94. www.rubenshof.be. 22 units, 14 with bathroom. 52€ double without bathroom; 76€ double with bathroom. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 4 or 24 to Bestorming; 12 to Bres. Inroom: No phone.

Where to Dine VERY EXPENSIVE FRENCH/BELGIAN Behind the heavy doors of a 16th-century stone house, this Michelin two-star restaurant offers the finest dining in town in an intimate room furnished in oak. Chef Johan Segers comes to your table to explain each succulent dish. Although you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu, the

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Bretagne lobster is particularly outstanding. Guests are invited to visit the superb wine cellar, which contains 4,000 bottles of wine. Reyndersstraat 24 (at Oude Koornmarkt). & 03/233-62-70. Reservations required. Main courses 22€–52€; fixed-price menu 55€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm and 7–10pm.

EXPENSIVE De Manie FRENCH This bright, modern restaurant serves innovative dishes that change every 6 months. Recent specialties included an appetizer of quail salad with goat cheese and artichoke; filet of hare with cranberries, chicory, and juniper sauce; and grilled wood pigeon with gratinéed Brussels sprouts. The food is excellent, and the setting is laid-back.

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Hendrik Conscienceplein 3 (near Sint-Katelijnevest). &03/232-64-38. Main courses 24€–32€; fixedprice menus 35€–45€. AE, MC, V. Mon–Tues and Thurs–Sat noon–2:30pm and 6:30–9:30pm; Sun 6:30–9:30pm. Tram: 10 or 11 to Melkmarkt.

BELGIAN/CLASSIC FRENCH A location amid the delightful 16th-century Vlaeykensgang courtyard’s jumble of cafes, restaurants, and antique apartments all but guarantees a pleasant atmosphere here. This used to be a Michelin star–rated restaurant, until owner and chef Marc Paesbrugghe tired of being on the Michelin treadmill and chose to do something less stressful, more fun, and reasonably priced. He reopened this place as a relaxed brasserie/ restaurant in an elegantly minimalist setting flooded with natural light from the old-world courtyard. It doubles as a contemporary art gallery but retains a commitment to good food.

Sir Anthony van Dijck

Oude Koornmarkt 16 (inside Vlaeykensgang). & 03/231-61-70. www.siranthonyvandijck.be. Main courses 34€–35€; gastronomic menu 47€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–1:30pm and 6:30–9:30pm. Tram: 2, 3, 5, or 15 to Groenplaats.

MODERATE De Peerdestal CONTINENTAL In this large, rustic, two-floor restaurant, you can enjoy a light meal of a salad or indulge in heartier fare such as mussels, fish, steak, or even horse meat, which is a specialty here. Despite its size, there’s something almost cozy about the place. One standout offering is the nice crispy salad with marinated goat’s cheese, bacon, and a honey dressing; if you regularly take your steak Américain (American steak) raw, chopped, mixed with raw onions, and served with a béarnaise sauce, then you should love it here. Wijngaardstraat 8–10 (2 blocks east of the Grote Markt). & 03/231-95-03. www.depeerdestal.be. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses 23€–35€; fixed-price menus 28€–43€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–3pm and 5:30–10pm. Tram: 10 or 11 to Melkmarkt.

Rooden Hoed BELGIAN/FRENCH This pleasant, old-fashioned restaurant is the oldest in Antwerp, having been in business for more than 250 years. It serves hearty food—a mix of regional cuisine and trendy new forms—at moderate prices. Mussels, a delicious choucroute d’Alsace (sausages with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes), chicken waterzooï, and fish specialties are all featured on the menu. Try an aperitif or a snack in the medieval cellar under the restaurant. Oude Koornmarkt 25 (facing the cathedral). & 03/233-28-44. www.roodenhoed.be. Main courses 22€–27€; fixed-price lunch 22€; Marktmenu (daily special menu) 37€. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs noon– 2:30pm and 6–10:30pm; Fri–Sat noon–2:30pm and 6–11pm; Sun noon–2:30pm and 6–10pm. Tram: 2, 3, 5, or 15 to Groenplaats.

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INEXPENSIVE INTERNATIONAL One of Antwerp’s most popular dining addresses, this magnificent brasserie is in the foyer of the 19th-century Bourla Theater. With its ornately painted dome, potted palms, red-velvet drapes, and marble columns, you would expect prices to be a lot higher than they are. The daily lunch buffet is a bargain; it includes an array of fish and vegetable salads, soup, several hot dishes, cheese, and pastries. At least try to stop in for tea or drinks, if only to bask in the opulence.

De Foyer

Komedieplaats 18 (at Schuttershofstraat). & 03/233-55-17. www.defoyer.be. Reservations recommended on weekends. Light meals 9€–13€; lunch buffet 15€. MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–midnight; Sat 11am– midnight; Sun 11am–6pm. Tram: 7 or 8 to Oudaan.

Shopping

WHERE TO SHOP

Antwerp

A top Belgian fashion designer keeps shop at Ann Demeulemeester , Verlaatstraat 38 (&03/216-01-33; www.anndemeulemeester.be; tram: 8), at Leopold de Waelplaats, in front of the Royal Fine Arts Museum. It offers complete lines of clothes, shoes, and accessories for both men and women by Demeulemeester, one of the city’s influential fashion designers going back to the 1980s, when they were dubbed the “Antwerp Six.” It’s open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 7pm. Treat your feet to shoes by Anne Demeulemeester, and other top Flemish designers Dries van Noten and Dirk Bikkembergs, at Coccodrillo, Schuttershofstraat 9 (& 03/233-20-93; www.coccodrillo.be; tram: 7 or 8). Chic, affordable women’s fashion is served up at Belgian designer Olivier Strelli , Hopland 35 (&03/23351-36; tram: 12 or 24). For diamonds, visit the glittering jewelry and gold stores of the Diamantkwartier (Diamond Quarter), around Centraal Station. At Diamondland, Appelmansstraat 33A (&03/229-29-90; www.diamondland.be; Métro: Centraal Station), it’s fascinating to watch expert cutters and polishers transform undistinguished stones into gems of glittering beauty—the “Antwerp cut” is said to give them more sparkle. This luxurious showplace, the city’s biggest, provides a firsthand look at the process on a guided tour of its workrooms.

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Antwerp yields not an inch to Brussels in the style wars—in fact, Antwerp is the more fashion-conscious of the two. During the ’80s and ’90s, youthful local fashion designers, graduates of the city’s Fine Arts Academy, made a major and enduring impact within Belgium and established a substantial international reputation. Expensive upmarket stores, boutiques, and department stores abound in De Keyserlei and the Meir. For haute couture, go to Leopoldstraat; for lace, the streets surrounding the cathedral; for books, Hoogstraat; for electronics and antiques, Minderbroedersrui; and for diamonds, Appelmansstraat and nearby streets, all near Centraal Station.

Markets Antwerp’s famed street markets are fun and good bargain-hunting territory. If you’re in town on a Saturday from Easter to October, shop for a steal at the Antiques Market, Lijnwaadmarkt (tram: 10 or 11), from 10am to 6pm. The outstanding Bird Market is a general market that features live animals, plants, textiles, and foodstuffs; it takes place Sunday mornings on Oude Vaartplaats (tram: 12 or 14), off Frankrijklei. At the street market on Wednesday and Friday morning on Vrijdagmarkt (Tram: 2, 3, 5, or 15), facing the Plantin-Moretus Museum, household goods and secondhand furniture are put on public auction. 183

Antwerp After Dark Antwerp is as lively after dark as it is busy during the day. The main entertainment zones are Grote Markt and Groenplaats, which both contain concentrations of bars, cafes, and theaters; High Town (Hoogstraat, Pelgrimstraat, Pieter Potstraat, and vicinity) for jazz clubs and bistros; Stadswaag for jazz and punk; and the Centraal Station area for discos, nightclubs, and gay bars. The red-light district here, concentrated in Riverside Quarter, is much seedier and less tourist-oriented than the one in Amsterdam (see chapter 13).

THE PERFORMING ARTS

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Antwerp takes pride in being a citadel of Flemish culture. Two of the region’s stellar performance companies are based here: the Vlaamse Opera (Flanders Opera; &070/22-02-02; www.vlaamseopera.be), and the Koninklijk Ballet van Vlaanderen (Royal Flanders Ballet; & 03/224-82-67; www.koninklijkballetvan vlaanderen.be). Top of the line for theater and classical music is the Stadsschouwburg, Theaterplein 1 (& 0900/69-900; www.stadsschouwburgantwerpen.be; tram: 12 or 24). Contemporary music and ballet is performed at deSingel, Desguinlei 25 (&03/24828-28; www.desingel.be; tram: 2).

BARS No city watering hole has a better outlook than Den Engel , Grote Markt 3 (&03/233-12-52; www.cafedenengel.be; tram: 10 or 11), an old-style cafe dating from 1579 on the main square, where a round glass called a bolleke (little ball) of Antwerp’s very own yeasty, copper-toned De Koninck beer becomes a work of liquid art. Below the cathedral’s soaring spire, amid wood paneling on two separate levels, Paeters Vaetje, Blauwmoezelstraat 1 (& 03/231-84-76; www.patersvaetje.be; tram: 10 or 11), is a great place for listening to the Monday-evening carillon concert and serves up 100 different brews along with snacks. Get into the abbey habit at De Groote Witte Arend, Reyndersstraat 18 (& 03/233-50-33; www.degrootewittearend.be; tram: 2, 3, 5, or 15), a cafe in a 17th-century former monastery, where customers are serenaded by classical music. Go underground to De Pelgrom, Pelgrimsstraat 15 (&03/234-08-09; tram: 2, 3, 5, or 15), in a candlelit, brick-arched cellar, and get convivial at long wood benches. A huge selection of beers, including virtually every Belgian brand, is displayed behind glass and served at candlelit tables in Kulminator, Vleminckveld 32 (&03/23245-38; tram: 7 or 8). An altogether different kind of drinking experience is to be had at De Vagant , Reyndersstraat 25 (& 03/233-15-38; www.devagant.be; tram: 2, 3, 5, or 15). It deals exclusively in jenever and has 220 varieties of this stiff grain spirit. An upstairs restaurant specializes in dishes with jenever-based sauces, and its walls are a gallery of jenever memorabilia.

Side Trips from Antwerp LIER 16km (10 miles) SE of Antwerp

A pretty, small town on the banks of the Nete River, Lier (pop. 35,000) has canal-side scenes reminiscent of Bruges, just not so extensive or well advertised. 184

Essentials GETTING THERE There are up to six trains every hour to Lier (Lierre in French) from Antwerp’s Centraal Station; the fastest trains get there in 15 minutes. To go by car, take N10. VISITOR INFORMATION Toerisme Lier, Grote Markt 57 (& 03/800-0555; fax 03/488-12-76; www.toerismelier.be), is at Stadhuis (Town Hall), in the center of town. The office is open April to October daily from 9:30am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5pm; and November to March Monday to Friday from 9:30am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5pm.

8 GHENT & ANTWERP Antwerp

What to See & Do Don’t miss the town’s 14th-century Zimmertoren (Zimmer Tower) , Zimmerplein 18 (&03/800-03-95; www.zimmertoren.be). It’s equipped with the remarkable Centenary Clock and Wonder Clock, which were installed by astronomy enthusiast Lodewijk Zimmer to explain the workings of space and time to his fellow citizens. The clocks show the sun, moon, signs of the zodiac, seasons, and tides on the Nete River. The tower is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to noon and 1:30 to 5:30pm. Admission is 2.50€ for adults, 1.50€ for children 6 to 16, and free for children 5 and under. If you have time, visit the Stedelijk Museum (Municipal Museum), Florent van Cauwenberghstraat 14 (& 03/800-03-96), just off the Grote Markt in the center of town. The art collections here include paintings by Rubens, Jan Brueghel and Pieter Bruegel the Elder, David Teniers the Younger, and local artist Isidore Opsomer. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to noon and 1 to 5pm. Admission is 2€ for adults and free for children 6 and under.

HASSELT 73km (45 miles) SE of Antwerp

The heart of Belgium’s potent jenever industry, Hasselt (pop. 72,000) is a center for touring the Kempen moorland. Essentials Two trains to Hasselt depart every hour from Antwerp’s Centraal Station; the fastest trains get there in just over an hour. By car, go east on N10 and N2, via Aarschot. VISITOR INFORMATION Toerisme Hasselt, Lombaardstraat 3 (&011/2395-40; fax 011/22-50-23; www.hasselt.eu), is at the Stadhuis (Town Hall), in the center of town. The office is open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm, Saturday from 10am to 5pm, and Sunday and holidays from 10am to 2pm (Nov–Mar closed Sun and holidays). GETTING THERE

What to See & Do Centuries of the loving care devoted to the fiery drink jenever are recalled in the exhibits of the Nationaal Jenevermuseum (National Jenever Museum), Witte Nonnenstraat 19 (& 011/23-98-60; www.jenevermuseum.be). These include its distillation, bottling, labeling and, of course, drinking. The jenever has the last word in a free sample that rounds off the visit with an appropriate glow. The museum is open April to October Tuesday to Sunday (also Mon July–Aug) from 10am to 5pm; November to March Tuesday to Friday from 10am to 5pm, and weekends and

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holidays from 1 to 5pm (closed Jan except school vacation days, Dec 24–25 and 31). Admission is 3.50€ for adults, 2.50€ for seniors, 1€ for ages 12 to 26, and free for children 11 and under; the admission includes one jenever (not for children!). A nearby attraction that is especially interesting for children is the Domein (& 011/26-53-00; www.funinbokrijk.be), 8km Bokrijk (Bokrijk Estate) (5 miles) northeast of town. On the grounds of the large wooded estate is the Openluchtmuseum (Open-Air Museum), consisting of old houses that provide detailed reconstructions of everyday Flemish life in premodern times; in some, craftspeople work at traditional trades. Although all of the buildings and village sites are clearly marked, I suggest you purchase the English-language guide, which is an education in itself. In addition, the estate incorporates a big nature reserve. The open-air museum is open April to September daily 10am to 6pm; the rest of the estate is open the same hours year-round. Admission to the open-air museum is 10€ for adults, 8.50€ for seniors and visitors with disabilities, 1€ for ages 6 to 26, and free for children 5 and under. There’s regular bus service from Hasselt and train service from Brussels via Hasselt (Bokrijk has its own rail station). By car, take N75 from Hasselt; parking at the estate costs 3€.

TONGEREN 88km (55 miles) SE of Antwerp; 20km (12 miles) SE of Hasselt

Belgium’s oldest town (Tongres in French), with a history dating back to Roman times, Tongeren (pop. 30,000) is at the eastern end of the Kempen moorland region, close to the Dutch border. Ambiorix, chief of the ancient Eburones tribe, wiped out one of Julius Caesar’s legions somewhere in this area in 54 b.c., earning himself a martial bronze statue (1866) on the town’s Grote Markt. Essentials There’s one train every hour from Antwerp’s Centraal Station to Tongeren, going via Hasselt; the ride from Antwerp takes 1 hour and 40 minutes. By car, take N20 southeast from Hasselt. VISITOR INFORMATION Toerisme Tongeren is at Via Julianus 5, 3700 Tongeren (& 012/80-00-70; fax 012/80-00-78; www.tongeren.be), off Maastrichterstraat, 4 blocks east of the center of town. The office is open April to June and September Monday to Friday from 8:30am to noon and 1 to 5pm, and weekends and holidays from 9:30am to 5pm; July and August Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 5pm, and weekends and holidays from 9:30am to 5pm; and October to March Monday to Friday from 8:30am to noon and 1 to 5pm, and weekends and holidays from 10am to 4pm. GETTING THERE

What to See & Do Tongeren is home to the imposing Onze-Lieve-Vrouwebasiliek (Basilica of Our Lady), a Gothic church with a Brabantine tower and a Romanesque cloister. Its rich schatkamer (treasury) contains rare religious objects from the Merovingian era (6th–8th c. a.d.) up to the 18th century. The basilica is open daily from 9am to 4pm (the treasury Apr–Sept). Admission to the basilica is free. Admission to the treasury is 2.50€ for adults, 2€ for seniors and students, 0.50€ for children 6 to 12 and visitors with disabilities, and free for children 5 and under.

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Also worth a visit is the newly expanded Gallo-Romeins Museum (GalloRoman Museum) , Kielenstraat 15 (& 012/67-03-30; www.galloromeins museum.be), which contains 18,000 objects from prehistoric times through the Roman and Merovingian periods. The Roman period, when the town was known as Atuatuca Tungrorum, is well represented and includes huge and important collections of relics—pottery, glass objects, bronze articles, terra cotta, and sculptures— from its cemetery and the surrounding countryside. These are organized by theme to illustrate everyday life both in the town and in the country, and include exhibits on religious practices and traditions. The museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 9am to 5pm, and Saturday, Sunday, holidays, and school vacations from 10am to 6pm. It’s closed on January 1 and December 25. Admission is 7€ for adults, 5€ for seniors and visitors with disabilities, 1€ for ages 4 to 26, and free for children 3 and under.

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THE BELGIAN COAST & YPRES

elgium’s 70km (44 miles) of North Sea coastline is one continuous vista of beaches backed by sand dunes and speckled with resort towns. Except for De

Haan, each resort is encumbered with a dense waterfront lineup of hotels, restaurants, and apartment buildings. Together these have been dubbed the “Atlantic Wall,” after Hitler’s World War II fortifications, and they all but neutralize the coast’s natural beauty.

Most visitors don’t seem too concerned. Even those who are will find compensation in superb seafood dining, good shopping, and general vacation hustle and bustle. Kids love the seacoast. For adults the region offers several vacation styles—sea, sand, and sun; casino and nightclub action; gustatory gluttony; or a series of sightseeing expeditions. It’s possible to cover all of these options in an incredibly short amount of time. The beaches reach back up to 500m (1,640 ft.) at low tide, and their gentle slope into the sea makes for generally safe swimming—warnings are in force against swimming along isolated stretches. Just remember that this is the North Sea, not the Caribbean—the water is gray and pretty darn cold. Visitors skim along the sand on wind-blown sail carts (there’s no shortage of wind), pedal beach buggies, or join the ever-hopeful sun worshipers in search of a tan.

OSTEND 110km (68 miles) NW of Brussels; 20km (12 miles) W of Bruges

The glitter of the “Queen of the Coast” has faded since its 19th-century heyday as a royal vacation spot and prestigious European watering hole, but plenty of reasons remain to justify a visit to Ostend (Oostende in Dutch; Ostende in French): great beaches, a casino, a racetrack, art museums, a spa, good shopping, an Olympic-size indoor pool, outdoor pools filled with heated seawater, sailing and windsurfing, and, last but by no means least, a legitimate reputation of being a seafood cornucopia. This lively recreational haven is very much a people’s queen now, welcoming all income levels. There’s culture here, too, in notable art museums and links with modern artists.

Westhoek Nature Reserve

To Ypres Veurne

A18

369

Schore

E40

Stene

Ostend (Oostende) 3

SE A

A10

Ichtegem

Gistel

Bredene

De Haan

Oudenburg

NO RT H

Eernegem 32

A17

E403

KnokkeHeist

Lissewege

BRUGES (BRUGGE) Sint-Andries

N31

Zeebrugge

Zuienkerke

Zedelgem

Blankenberge

Kanaal

Koksijde

De Panne

Nieuwpoort

Westende

Middelkerke

Oostduinkerke

SintIdesbald

KoksijdeBad

De Panne 5 Het Zoute 2 Knokke-Heist 1 Oostduinkerke 4 Ostend 3

To Dover

To Ramsgate

LUXEMBOURG

Ka na al

5 km

E40

Oostkamp

5 mi

Assebroek

Sint-Kruis

Damme

A10

Zwin Nature Park

Het Zoute

am e -D lB ru gg e

To Hull

Boudewijn

Ostend

Brussels

na a Ka

old

op Le

THE BELGIAN COAST & YPRES

Area of BELGIUM Detail

The Belgian Coast

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Tracks Along the Coast The De Lijn company’s Kusttram (Coast Tram; &070/22-02-00; www.dekust tram.be) runs the length of the seacoast between Knokke-Heist and De Panne in 2 hours and stops at 70 points along the way. Departures are every 10 to 20 minutes in summer and every 30 minutes in winter, in both directions. Purchase your ticket from a De Lijn sales point or automat (ticket machine) before boarding and you’ll pay less for

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it (the “twin” prices listed here reflect this distinction). An enkele rit (oneway) ticket costs 1.20€/2€ for up to two zones and 2€/3€ for three or more zones. A dagpas (day pass) for adults, valid for the entire tram line, costs 5€/6€ (1 day), 10€/12€ (3 days), and 15€/18€ (5 days). For children 6 to 11, only a 1-day pass is available, costing 1.50€; children 5 and under ride free.

Ostend (pop. 70,000) has been attracting seawater enthusiasts since 1784, when the town council allowed Englishman William Hesketh to set up a drinks kiosk on the beach. He later introduced mobile beach huts that were hauled into the water by horses. Before World War II, the elevated Albert I Promenade and Zeedijk that together parallel the entire length of the 6km (4 miles) of beach were lined with elegant villas, among them vacation homes of European royalty. Wartime destruction and postwar “improvements” brought down many of these fine old houses. From the debris sprung character-free modern hotels and apartment buildings.

Essentials Two trains depart every hour from Brussels for the 80-minute ride, and up to three trains every hour from Bruges for the 15-minute ride, to Oostende station (&02/528-28-28; www.sncb.be), a neo-baroque edifice (1913) at the harbor. The Kusttram (Coast Tram) has fast, frequent service connecting all the seacoast resorts from outside the station (see “Tracks Along the Coast,” above). By car from Brussels and Bruges, take A10/E40 west; from the other coast resorts, take N34. See “By Boat” under “Getting There & Around,” in chapter 3, for ferries to Ostend from England. VISITOR INFORMATION Toerisme Oostende is at Monacoplein 2, 8400 Oostende (& 059/70-11-99; fax 059/70-34-77; www.toerisme-oostende.be). The office is open May to October Monday to Saturday from 9am to 7pm and Sunday from 10am to 7pm, and November to April Monday to Saturday from 10am to 6pm and Sunday from 10am to 5pm. GETTING AROUND Ostend is served by multiple bus lines departing from the bus station in front of the train station; if you want to get quickly to points along the coast, in either direction, take the Coast Tram. Bus and tram information is available from De Lijn (&070/22-02-00; www.delijn.be). Pick up a taxi at the rail station or the Casino-Kursaal, or call Taxibond (&059/70-27-27). SPECIAL EVENTS You don’t have to be crazy to take part in the annual New Year Dive into the North Sea, but it sure can’t hurt. Around 6,000 “polar bears” nerve themselves to take the plunge into the icy North Sea waters on the first Saturday of the year. GETTING THERE

DINING Blaffetuurken 12 Savarin 2 Villa Maritza 1

ACCOMMODATIONS De Hofkamers 7 Hotel Du Bassin 16 Thermae-Palace 3

Kon

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ATTRACTIONS Casino-Kursaal 6 De Zee (Dikke Mathille) 8 Earth Explorer 11 James Ensor Huis 9 Koninklijke Gaanderijen 4 Museumschip Amandine 17 Mu.ZEE/Kunstmuseum aan Zee 19 Noordzeeaquarium 14 Oostends Historisch Museum “De Plate” 10 Sint-Petrus-enPauluskerk 15 Venetiaanse Gaanderijen 5 Vistrap 13 Zeilschip Mercator 18

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What to See & Do The waterfront Albert I Promenade and the Zeedijk are lined by beaches and a casino. The long beach west of the harbor has stretches that are under lifeguard surveillance in summer from 10:30am to 6:30pm, and some stretches where swimming is not permitted at any time. Look for the signs that indicate both of these, and for the green, yellow, or red flags that tell you whether the sea conditions permit swimming.

THE TOP ATTRACTIONS The house where Ostend-born Anglo-Belgian artist James Ensor (1860–1949) lived from 1916 has been restored to its condition when his aunt kept a ground-floor shells-and-souvenir store here, and transformed into a museum of his life. Ensor’s studio and lounge are upstairs. Only reproductions are displayed, but if you’re familiar with his paintings, you’ll recognize some of the furnishings and views from the windows. Though little understood or appreciated during his lifetime for his fantastical, hallucinatory, and sexually ambiguous visions, the pre-Expressionist painter is considered a founder of Lady of the Sea modern art. The Entry of Christ into Brussels (1889), first exhibited in 1929 A bronze sculpture by Flemish artist and now in California’s Getty George Grard (1901–84) depicting a Museum, is his most famous work. generously endowed, reclining nude Ostend appreciates him just as much woman graces a fountain pond just for his carnival masks inspired by the outside Ostend’s Leopoldpark. The town’s annual Bal du Rat Mort (Dead 1955 work is formally entitled De Zee Rat Ball). Ensor is buried in the (The Sea), but is known locally as Dikke churchyard of Onze-Lieve-Vrouw Mathille (Fat Matilda). ter Duinenkerk (Our Lady of the Dunes Church) on Dorpstraat.

James Ensorhuis (James Ensor House)

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Vlaanderenstraat 27 (off Wapenplein). & 059/50-81-18. Admission 2€ adults, 1€ seniors, free for children 17 and under. Wed–Mon 10am–noon and 2–5pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 25 (and in the event of a heavy storm).

Mu.ZEE/Kunstmuseum aan Zee (Art Museum by the Sea) Set in a former department store, this museum’s paintings, sculptures, graphics, video, and films provide a wide-ranging picture of Belgian modern art from its beginnings to the present day. It combines the collections of the town’s old Museum of Modern Art and Fine Arts Museum. Paintings by native sons James Ensor, Jan de Clerck, Constant Permeke, and Léon Spilliaert, as well as by Belgian Impressionists, are featured. Among the Ensors is his racy Bathing at Ostend (1899), a work that scandalized polite Belgian society, though the libertine King Léopold II appreciated its saucy humor— and it is interesting to compare the beach scene then with today’s. There are frequent international exhibits, a children’s museum, a workshop for youngsters, slide shows, and educational projects. Romestraat 11 (at Amsterdamstraat). &059/50-81-18. www.kunstmuseumaanzee.be. Admission 5€ adults, 4€ seniors, 2.50€ children 12–17, free for children 11 and under. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 25.

Oostends Historisch Museum “De Plate” (Ostend Historical Museum “The Plaice”) Housed in King Léopold I’s restored, 19th-century summer resi-

dence, the Ostend Historical museum holds displays of Neolithic and Roman objects 192

excavated in the vicinity and exhibits depicting Ostend traditional dress, folklore, and history. There’s a recreated fisherman’s pub, a fisherman’s home, and an old tobacco store. The Marine section deals with shipbuilding, fishing boats, and the Ostend scheduled ferry service from England, which started in 1846. Langestraat 69 (close to Wapenplein). & 059/51-67-21. www.deplate.be. Admission 2€ adults, 1€ seniors and children 14–18, free for children 13 and under. Mid-June to mid-Sept and during school vacations Wed–Mon 10am–noon and 2–5pm; mid-Sept to mid-June (when not during school vacations) Sat 10am–noon and 2–5pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 25.

ROYAL OSTEND

9 THE BELGIAN COAST & YPRES Ostend

Made fashionable by King Léopold I’s decision to establish a vacation residence here in 1834, Ostend became a magnet for blue-blooded vacationers from Britain and the Continent. Remnants of this vanished glory are scattered around town. Among them are two long and elegant galleries that shielded Belgian royals and their guests from sun, wind, and rain during promenades. The Venetiaanse Gaanderijen (Venetian Galleries; 1903), now an exhibits hall, is on the seafront Albert I Promenade. The Koninklijke Gaanderijen (Royal Galleries; 1906) connected the Royal Villa with the racetrack. In 1930 the Thermae Palace Hotel (see “Where to Stay,” below) was constructed at the center of the galleries. At the entrance to the Venetian Galleries stands a sympathetic bronze sculpture (2000) of King Baudouin (1951–93). The “people’s king” is depicted strolling in Ostend, wearing a raincoat, a long way from the hauteur of earlier royal portrayals: Léopold I (1831–65) adopts a heroic nationalistic pose in an equestrian sculpture on Léopold I Plein, and Léopold II (1865–1909), a pompous imperialistic pose in an equestrian sculpture on the seafront Zeedijk at the Venetian Galleries. The summer residence of Léopold I, a surprisingly ordinary-looking town house at Langestraat 69, was eventually abandoned by the royals; it now houses the Ostend Historical Museum (see above). Its 1954 waterfront replacement as the Royal Villa later became the plush Oostendse Compagnie Hotel, which closed in 2005, and the building now is privately owned. Léopold II, who earned a reputation for Impressions allowing the royal libido free rein, supposedly stashed one of his mistresses, “You had some fun there, I suppose?” a Hungarian baroness, at the grand I put in, thinking of—well, of Ostend Villa Maritza, Albert I Promenade in August. 76, one of a group of three surviving “Fun! A filthy hole I call it . . . there was 19th-century waterfront villas and now nothing to do on shore.” an upscale restaurant (p.196). —Erskine Childers, The Riddle The vast, neo-Gothic Sint-Petrusof the Sands, 1903 en Pauluskerk (St. Peter and Paul Church), from 1907, on Sint-Petrusen-Paulusplein, close to the ferry dock, has a suite of stained-glass windows and a memorial chapel dedicated to Belgium’s first queen, Marie-Louise of Orléans, who died in Ostend in 1850.

MARINE THEMES There’s plenty of sea-related stuff to see and do in Ostend. Kids will likely appreciate a ramble through the Zeilschip Mercator (Sailing Ship Mercator), Mercatordok (& 059/51-70-10; www.zeilschip-mercator.be), moored in a dock facing the rail station. Formerly a Belgian merchant marine training ship, the Mercator, a 193

Room at the Inns Accommodations at the seacoast can be hard to come by in July and August, despite the presence of thousands of vacation homes, apartments, and private homes offering bed-and-breakfast. Reserve well ahead for this period,

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Ostend

either through the local tourist office or directly with your chosen lodging. Don’t worry too much about this—you’ll always be able to get something, but it might not be what you want, where you want, and for the price you want.

white-painted, three-masted schooner, is now a floating museum ship. The ship can be visited May to June and September daily 10am to 12:30pm and 2 to 5:30pm; July to August daily 10am to 5:30pm; and October to April daily 10am to 12:30pm and 2 to 5pm (closed Jan 1 and Dec 25). Admission is 4€ for adults, 3€ for seniors, 2€ for children 6 to 14, and free for children 5 and under. Another worthwhile old sea dog is the Museumschip (Museum Ship) Amandine, Vindictivelaan 35Z (& 059/23-43-01; www.museum-amandine.be). Launched in 1961, the trawler was the last Ostend IJslandvaarder (Iceland fishing boat) to work the rich northern fishing grounds. She now sits in a dry basin as a museum of the history and traditions of Ostend’s Icelandic fishery. The ship can be visited Monday from 2 to 6pm, and Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 6pm (closed Jan 1; late Nov to mid-Dec; and Dec 24, 25, and 31). Admission is 4€ for adults, 2€ for children 6 to 14, and free for children 5 and under. Though popular with children, the small Noordzeeaquarium (North Sea Aquarium), Visserskaai (&059/50-08-76), by the old fishing harbor, is not exactly riveting. It features North Sea flora and fauna, including fish, mollusks, crustaceans, polyps, anemones, and shell and seaweed collections. The aquarium is open April to May daily 10am to noon and 2 to 5pm, June to September daily 10am to 12:30pm and 2 to 6pm, and October to March weekends and holidays from 10am to 12:30pm and 2 to 6pm (closed Jan 1). Admission is 2€ for adults, 1€ for children 4 to 13, and free for children 3 and under. You need to be up early to watch the stands at the Vistrap (Fish Market) on Visserskaai being loaded up with North Sea fish fresh off the boats from the previous night’s catch. Sole, plaice, whiting, cod, bream, brill, eels, and shrimps are the main species on view and for sale. With water covering 71% of the surface of the “Earth,” it’s not much of a stretch to extend the marine theme to the entire planet. In 1992 European Space Agency astronaut Dirk Frimout flew aboard the U.S. space shuttle Atlantis as a part of NASA’s “Mission to Planet Earth.” Continuing in that spirit, the Belgian former spacefarer is behind Earth Explorer, Fortstraat 128B (&059/70-59-59; www.earthexplorer.be), a hands-on attraction that covers earth, air, fire, and water, and is especially aimed at children. The attraction is open from the Easter school vacation to August daily 10am to 6pm. Admission is 15€ for adults; 13€ for seniors, students, and visitors with disabilities; 11€ for children 4 to 12; and free for children 3 and under.

WHERE TO STAY It’s been interesting to watch the Pots family continually upgrade their hotel by adding innovative amenities as well as personal touches and coordinated furnishings in the rooms, bringing some of them close to minor-boutique

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status. They’ve installed amenities such as a solarium, hammam bath, and sauna— small, perhaps, but definitely welcome. All rooms are individually decorated but in general feature bright colors and light-wood furnishings. Some have four-poster beds. In all, this is an attractive modern hotel in a convenient location, close to the beach and the casino. IJzerstraat 5 (at Koningsstraat), 8400 Oostende. &059/70-63-49. Fax 059/24-23-90. www.dehofkamers.be. 25 units. 90€–150€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC, V. Limited street parking. Amenities: Bar; bikes; exercise room; sauna. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Du Bassin This pleasant hotel-restaurant, conveniently sited across the street from the train station and the ferry dock, has a bit more going for it than an undistinguished modern exterior seems to indicate. The rooms are nicely if simply furnished in contemporary style, with moody color tones that ought to be restful after a day at the beach; most also have a harbor view. On the ground floor, there’s the bustling Grand Café Du Bassin, with a sidewalk terrace, where seafood is a specialty. Visserskaai 1 (at Sint-Franciscusstraat), 8400 Oostende. &059/70-33-83. Fax 059/80-36-78. www. hoteldubassin.be. 21 units. 79€–97€ double; 125€ suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Ostend

Koningin Astridlaan 7 (at Kapelstraat), 8400 Oostende. &059/80-66-44. Fax 059/80-52-74. www. thermaepalace.be. 159 units. 170€–280€ double; 350€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 10€. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; lounge; babysitting; concierge; nearby golf course; health club. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

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Thermae Palace This Art Deco hotel, at the heart of the seafront architectural landmark that is the Koninklijke Gaanderijen, or Royal Galleries (see above), is beginning to show its age a touch. Constructed in the 1930s, the building is still a prominent reminder of Ostend’s previous glory as a royal resort. The hotel has attractive standard guest rooms and plusher superior rooms, many of which have Gaye Old Time been upgraded with new beds, furnishings, and decor, and around half of Marvin Gaye’s 1982 classic soul torch them have a sea view. They don’t quite song Sexual Healing, a million-selling match the grandeur of the setting, so Grammy winner, was written during an that’s part of the opportunity-cost cal18-month retreat the troubled singer culation. The French restaurant Péritook in 1981 and 1982 in the unlikely gord serves high-quality cuisine in a haven of Ostend. rather formal setting; the Belgian Bistro Paddock is more casual.

WHERE TO DINE Diners pile into Ostend with fish on their minds. Visserskaai (Fishermen’s Wharf), along the harbor, is lined with fish restaurants and is the most obvious setting for everything from sit-down dining in plush restaurants to great handheld snacks from waterside fish stands. Fine restaurants are sprinkled along the seafront Albert I Promenade and at spots hidden away in the old town. With 250 eateries in the town, many of which have seafood on the menu, you’ll have plenty of choices. Blaffetuurken SEAFOOD/BELGIAN/FRENCH With places for just 30 diners in the interior, this small restaurant has an intimate character. Some chairs painted marine blue and a few paintings of local nautical scenes are about the only visual nods to this being a seafood outlet. Instead, the owners have created a restful ambience for whatever you choose to order, whether that be the Barents Sea crab, 195

the eel with green herbs, or the Flemish-style rabbit. A narrow sliver of outdoor terrace is protected from the elements but for some may be a tad close to the busy street when the windows are open—yet that bustle is part of the attraction on “Fishermen’s Wharf.” Visserskaai 39 (facing the Vistrap/Fish Market). & 059/70-42-26. www.blaffetuurkenoostende.be. Main courses 20€–27€; fixed-price lunch 22€; fixed-price Markt menu 40€ per person (offered only per table). AE, MC, V. Fri–Tues noon–3pm and 6–10pm.

Albert I Promenade 74 (at Kemmelbergstraat). &059/51-31-71. www.savarin.be. Main courses 24€– 48€; fixed-price lunch 34€, dinner 44€–84€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 9:30am–10:30pm.

Villa Maritza SEAFOOD/FRENCH In a waterfront villa (1885) that was the vacation home of an eponymous Hungarian baroness (reputedly one of footloose King Léopold II’s mistresses), this is a sophisticated restaurant that serves elegant cuisine. Seafood specialties vary with the season; all of them are culinary delights, but especially good options are the lobster with mixed vegetables and saffron, the lobster with red-wine sauce, and the pan-fried sole with green asparagus. Of the many ornate mansions that once lined the shore, this is one of the few that survived World War II bombings and destructive postwar “developers.”

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9 Ostend

Savarin SEAFOOD/BELGIAN A titanium enclosure and a general high-tech look announces a different tack to the usual Ostend emphasis on old-fashioned elegance—new-fashioned elegance, with big chandeliers and wall mirrors. It’s maybe a bit too smart and cool for its own good, but it compensates with a fine sea view. Ostend sole and seafood on the skewer are featured, and there’s an outdoor terrace for fine-weather dining. If you’re up for eels, try the paling in ’t groen, eel in a grassgreen vegetable sauce. More ordinary items on the menu include barbecue-grilled cod and salmon, and shrimp croquettes, a good starter choice.

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Albert I Promenade 76 (at Kemmelbergstraat). &059/50-88-08. www.villa-maritza.be. Main courses 18€–36€; fixed-price menus 35€–55€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–2:30pm and 7–9:30pm; Sun noon– 2:30pm.

OSTEND AFTER DARK With gaming rooms for roulette, blackjack, craps, and stud poker, along with slot machines, Casino Oostende, Oosthelling 12 (& 059/70-51-11; www.partouche casinos.be), dates from 1953 and has been thoroughly modernized and refurbished. (There’s been a casino at this spot since 1852, but the unlucky original occupied a prime site for a concrete bunker in Adolf Hitler’s Atlantic Wall.) The gaming rooms are open daily (minimum age 21) from 3pm to 7am. Admission is free, and a passport or identity card is required. The attached Kursaal Oostende , Monacoplein (&070/ 32-00-12; www.kursaaloostende.be), is a venue for visiting symphonic concerts, operettas, ballet, and musicals. In its opulent interior are also a panoramic rooftop restaurant, the Ostend Queen; a coffeehouse; a snack bar; and a nightclub. If you want a quiet drink in the evening, visit the Old Flemish–style Café Rubens, Visserskaai 44 (&059/80-85-08), or one of the cafes with sidewalk terraces around Wapenplein. For late-night dance clubs, cabarets, and bars, head for Langestraat, which runs east from Monacoplein, in front of the Casino-Kursaal (www.casinocity. com/be/oostende/belkursa). On this literally “Long Street,” you’ll find (among other hot spots) Tao, a fashionable loungebar, dance club, and world cuisine restaurant, at no. 24–26 (&059/43-83-73; www.tao-oostende.be); the music bar—featuring soul, jazz, and French chanson—Lafayette, at no. 12 (& 0475/65-89-31); and multigenre music bar Twilight, at no. 21 (& 059/32-50-74).

KNOKKE-HEIST 24km (15 miles) NE of Bruges; 35km (22 miles) NE of Ostend

Knokke is fashionable—not as exclusive as it once was, but still fashionable. You can tell this by the very look of the place; its main shopping street features upscale jewelers, art galleries, and sporting stores adorned with internationally famous designer names. Heist, snuggled up close to the Dutch border, attracts classy average-income families. The winding residential streets of the nearby Het Zoute suburb fairly shriek “money,” and big money by Belgian standards. The villas proclaim their owners to be people of both wealth and exquisite taste (or, at any rate, what they consider exquisite taste). Whether or not you fit easily into this moneyed environment, a drive, cycle, or walk through Het Zoute provides a glimpse of Belgium’s wealthy lifestyle—and if that doesn’t grab you as a worthwhile way to spend 15 minutes, pass right through to the Zwin Provincial Nature Park.

Essentials

There’s frequent train and bus service from Brussels, Ghent, and Bruges. To get here from Ostend and other seafront resorts, take the Coast Tram (see “Tracks Along the Coast,” earlier in this chapter). The combination train/ bus/tram stations are at the south end of Lippenslaan, the main street. By car from Bruges, take N31 north; N34 runs the entire length of the coast, connecting all the resort towns. VISITOR INFORMATION Toerisme Knokke-Heist is at Zeedijk-Knokke 660, 8300 Knokke-Heist (&050/63-03-80; fax 050/63-03-90; www.knokke-heist.info), on the seafront, at Lichttorenplein (Lighthouse Square). The office is open daily 8:30am to 6pm. GETTING THERE

enjoy its facilities are avocets, storks, snipes, plovers, geese, and ducks. The spongy soil nurtures an amazing variety of vegetation, making the park a colorful place to explore, especially in summer, when it’s tinged with lavender. There’s an aviary near the entrance; the Vlindertuin (Butterfly Garden); a restaurant, the Châlet du Zwin; and a bookstore. The park is open Easter to September Tuesday to Sunday (and school-vacation Mondays) from 9am to 5:30pm, and October to Easter from Tuesday to Sunday (and school-vacation Mondays) 9am to 4:30pm. Admission is 5.20€ for adults, 4.40€ for seniors, 3.20€ for children 6 to 11, and free for children 5 and under.

Knokke-Heist

Along this stretch of coast in the Middle Ages, the Zwin inlet met the sea and made Bruges a leading European port. The silting up of the inlet (leaving Bruges to settle into a landlocked prominence of quite another sort) created a salty, sandy marshland. This now forms the Het Zwin Nature Reserve (Provinciaal Natuurpark Zwin) , Graaf Léon Lippensdreef 8 (&050/60-70-86; www.zwin.be), east of Het Zoute. The park covers just 150 hectares (371 acres), yet it’s one of the most important remaining wetland breeding zones for birds on Europe’s northwest coast, and one of Belgium’s last scraps of coastal wilderness. Among the 100 migratory and indigenous species that

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What to See & Do

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This area’s list of attractions is topped by its fine beaches, where all manner of seaside sports are available. Beach activities range from half-hour sea trips in amphibious vessels launched right from the beach to sandcastle-building competitions and kite flying. For a different kind of fun, head to Casino Knokke, Zeedijk-Albertstrand 509 (&050/63-05-05; www.partouchecasinos.be), across from the Albertstrand beach. This place, which dates from the 1920s, is the epitome of elegance, with plush gaming rooms, slot machines, nostalgic bits of Art Deco, and glittering chandeliers illuminating a festive, dressed-to-the-nines clientele. Two nightclubs and a ballGreat Green Way room feature leading European entertainers. The magnificent Salle From Knokke-Heist, drive or cycle the Magritte dining room is a tribute to 48km (30-mile) Riante Polderroute, a surrealist painter René Magritte, signposted route that takes you whose paintings have been transthrough wooded parks, past the Zwin, formed into gigantic murals that adorn into polder farm country and along the walls. You’ll need to be decked out canals, to Damme (p.157). in dressy attire, and bring your passport. The minimum age is 21, and admission is free. Golfers should find they’ve come to the right place. The Royal Zoute Golf Club, Caddiespad 14, Knokke (&050/60-12-27; www.zoute.be), has two 18-hole courses beside the dunes and accepts visiting players. Greens fees (visitors must be a member of a golf club) are 95€ for the championship course and 55€ for the executive course.

Where to Stay Just 1 block behind the seafront, this hotel has an efficient, contemporary approach that emphasizes shiny marble over old-villa nostalgia. It fits a tolerable degree of comfort into guest rooms that are on the small side, yet they don’t waste any of the available space—be careful about angled-neck syndrome when watching the wall-mounted television. The beds and other generic furnishings are new and bright, with ochre-colored prints and drapes offsetting white-painted walls; bathrooms have cold gray marble tiles but are otherwise fine. You can dine in the businesslike restaurant or, in good weather, outside on an attractive, plant-shaded terrace.

Atlanta

Jozef Nellenslaan 162 (at Meerminlaan), 8300 Knokke-Heist. & 050/60-55-00. Fax 050/62-28-66. www.atlantaknokke.be. 33 units. 90€–135€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, V. Parking 10€. Amenities: Restaurant. Inroom: TV, hair dryer.

Britannia Set back from the beach, the elegant Britannia is housed in a superbly restored and extended building that dates from 1929, designed in the style of a Normandy villa. It rubs elbows with other upper-income villas in classy Het Zoute and is within a cleanly struck drive of the Royal Het Zoute Golf Club. Its guest rooms have integrated furnishings and colors that aim for a cozy, contemporary style. Some rooms are small, and some of the larger ones have kitchenettes. Elizabetlaan 85 (at Zoutelaan), 8300 Knokke-Heist. &050/62-10-62. Fax 050/62-00-63. www.hotel britannia.be. 30 units. 130€–175€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. Amenities: 2 lounges; nearby golf course. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (20€/24 hr.).

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This family-run hotel, 2 blocks back from the beach, offers wellappointed guest rooms that are furnished in a bright, modern style. Rooms at the front are exposed to some traffic noise, while those in back have a tranquil garden and, beyond that, a park for guests to look out on. Seafood is a big deal in the hotel restaurant, which overlooks the garden.

Parkhotel

Elizabetlaan 204 (at Rozenlaan), 8300 Knokke-Heist. & 050/60-09-01. Fax 050/62-36-08. www. parkhotelknokke.be. 14 units. 95€–145€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, V. Parking 8€. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar (most rooms), Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Dine FRENCH/SEAFOOD A long-time local standard-bearer of fine cuisine, set in a leafy villa district close to the seafront, this elegant restaurant is widely and justifiably considered to be the most outstanding in the area. Since the portions are on a minimalist scale that accentuates delicacy over solidity, you might not want to step inside to work off a healthy appetite acquired by strolling amid stiff North sea breezes. Instead, allow time to settle back amid restful pastel tones, and take in the garden view, while savoring such specialties as filet of plaice served with steamed vegetables and (in season) filet of wild boar.

Aquilon

Brasserie Charl’s FRENCH/BELGIAN This farmhouse-style restaurant has a solid reputation on the coast. The wide-ranging menu emphasizes seafood. Even a straightforward dish like the gebakken zeetong (grilled sole) with french fries and salad comes out tasting pretty fine. Turbot, grilled lobster, and Iranian caviar are excellent seafood choices, while lamb cutlet is the best choice among the meats. A fireplace and filled bookcases add to the atmosphere. Kalvekeetdijk 137 (at Kragendijk). &050/60-80-23. www.charls.be. Main courses 17€–24€; fixed-price lunch 16€ (29€ Sat–Sun), dinner 35€. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Sun (also Mon during school vacations) noon–2pm and 6:30–10pm.

Seafood stars at this waterfront restaurant, a medium-size place with elegant decor that’s reminiscent of an ocean liner’s restaurant. Menu dishes range from straightforward steaks to expensive fish dishes; the fish soup is a local legend. Standard menu items include lobster, cod, sole, and North Sea shrimps, but if you’re feeling aristocratic, try the caviar on toast.

Zeedijk-Knokke 659. &050/60-31-89. Main courses 20€–35€; fixed-price menus 28€–38€. AE, DC, MC, V. June–Sept daily noon–2:30pm and 6:30–9pm; Oct–May Wed–Mon noon–2:30pm and 6:30–9pm.

Knokke-Heist

Panier d’Or SEAFOOD/BELGIAN

THE BELGIAN COAST & YPRES

Elizabetlaan 6 (at Kustlaan). &050/60-12-74. www.aquilon.be. Reservations required. Main courses 15€–25€; fixed-price lunch 19€, dinner 27€–56€. AE, DC, MC, V. Thurs–Mon noon–2pm and 6:30–9pm (also Wed Jul–Aug).

The Sea on a Plate Many seacoast restaurants specialize in seafood, fresh off the boats from catches landed daily and prepared by chefs who have a long tradition of treating the fruits of the sea with respect. Local specialties include sole à

l’Ostendaise (Ostend sole), waterzooï op Oostendse wijze (a creamy, souplike fish stew), gray North Sea garnaalen (shrimps), and garnaalkroketten (croquettes made with those shrimps).

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OOSTDUINKERKE 20km (12 miles) SW of Ostend

Oostduinkerke and the neighboring resorts of Koksijde-Bad and Sint-Idesbald, with 8km (5 miles) of beach between them, are family-oriented yet hold much to interest art and nature lovers.

Essentials Ostend has the nearest rail station on the line from Brussels, via Ghent and Bruges, to the seacoast. Frequent Coast Tram service goes from Ostend. By car, take N34, which runs along the coast. VISITOR INFORMATION Toerisme Koksijde-Oostduinkerke is at Zeelaan 303, 8670 Koksijde (&058/51-29-10; fax 058/53-21-22; www.koksijde.be), just off seafront Zeedijk in the heart of the resort. The office is open April to September daily 9am to noon and 2 to 5:45pm; and October to March Saturday, Sunday, and during school vacations from 9am to noon and 2 to 4:45pm. GETTING THERE

THE BELGIAN COAST & YPRES

Oostduinkerke

What to See & Do Oostduinkerke’s chief attraction is its wide beach , the site of a special activity you find nowhere else along the coast: On days when the weather is reasonable, a group of stalwart, yellow-slickered gentlemen mount sturdy horses and wade into the surf at low tide to drag nets behind them, ensnaring garnalen—tiny but tasty gray North Sea shrimps. These Paardenvissers (Horse Fishermen) follow a tradition that dates back centuries in Oostduinkerke. Much of their catch goes into the kitchens or cafes owned by these same horsemen. Oostduinkerke’s beach is backed by impressive sand dunes, one of which, De Hoge Blekker, is the highest dune in the country, at over 30m (98 ft.). Abdijmuseum Ten Duinen 1138 (Abbey of the Dunes Museum 1138) During much of the 12th century, this Cistercian abbey was a regional center of culture. The abbey lay in ruins for centuries. Excavations begun in 1949 have revealed objects that shed light on coastal history and the development of the abbey. A small museum presents exhibits displaying these finds. Nearby, the large abbey farmstead Ten Bogaerde includes a 12th-century barn that is now an agricultural school. It’s typical of the large farm holdings of the ancient abbeys. Koninklijke Prinslaan 6–8, Koksijde. & 058/53-39-50. www.tenduinen.be. Admission 5€ adults, 3€ seniors and students, 1€ children 6–18, free for children 5 and under. Apr–Oct Tues–Fri 10am–6pm, weekends and holidays 2–6pm; Nov–Mar weekends and holidays 2–6pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 25.

Nationaal Visserijmuseum (National Fishery Museum) This museum has maps of sea routes followed by local fishing fleets, and it also displays fishing implements used through the centuries, sea paintings, a fishing-harbor model, a North Sea aquarium, and a collection of fishing-boat models from a.d. 800 to the present. The interiors of typical fisherman’s homes from around 1900 are other highlights. Pastoor Schmitzstraat 5 (in a small park at the rear of the Town Hall), Oostduinkerke. &058/51-24-68. www.visserijmuseum.be. Admission 5€ adults, 3€ seniors and students, 1€ children 6–18, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Fri 10am–6pm, weekends and holidays 2–6pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 25.

Paul Delvaux Museum The nephew of the surrealist artist Paul Delvaux has turned a Flemish farmhouse into a modernized museum displaying his uncle’s works. Delvaux’s adulation of the undraped female form is conveyed in many of 200

the paintings, as is his love of trains and railway stations (though it’s hard to see the connection). Paul Delvauxlaan 42, Sint-Idesbald. & 058/52-12-29. www.delvauxmuseum.com. Admission 8€ adults, 6€ seniors and students, free for children 6 and under. Apr–Sept Tues–Sun (and Mon holidays) 10:30am–5:30pm; Oct to 1st week of Jan Thurs–Sun 10:30am–5:30pm. Closed Jan 1, 2nd week of Jan to Mar, and Dec 25.

Where to Stay & Dine Argos This is a homey kind of place, with its own garden, in the leafy Oasis district in the center of the resort, surrounded by similar small villas. You’re effectively staying at a rustic private home, with comfy beds and sofas, in rooms that are more personal than in most hotels. The restaurant Bécassine is deservedly highly regarded at the seacoast and serves great seafood at reasonable prices—though only as fourcourse menus that run 40€–50€. Tasty North Sea shrimp is the star of the show, served in shrimp soup or stuffed in potatoes and pastries. The bouillabaisse is great, too. There are just seven tables, so dining here makes most sense if you are lodging at the hotel; otherwise, reservations are required.

DE PANNE 26km (16 miles) SW of Ostend; 7km (4 miles) SW of Oostduinkerke

De Panne, near Dunkirk, is Belgium’s closest coastal point to France and England. During World War I, it was here that King Albert I clung to Belgian resistance against German occupying forces. Today its wide beach and spectacular sand dunes bring hordes of visitors to De Panne every year. The dunes are made all the more scenic by wooded areas that turn them into a wonderland of greenery banding the white sands of the beach and the gray sea beyond.

GETTING THERE Ostend has the nearest rail station on the direct line from Brussels, via Ghent and Bruges, to the coast. A station just south of the town, at Adinkerke–De Panne, is served by trains from Bruges and Ypres. De Panne is the southern terminus of the coast tram line that extends north to Knokke-Heist. By car, take the N34 coast road from any of the coastal resorts; from Bruges, Ghent, and Brussels, take E40 to Veurne and then go north a short distance on N8. VISITOR INFORMATION Toerisme De Panne is at Zeelaan 21, 8660 De Panne (& 058/42-16-16; fax 058/42-16-17; www.depanne.be), on the corner of Lindelaan and Poststraat, in the center of the resort. The office is open July to August Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm and Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 6pm; and September to June Monday to Friday from 8am to noon and 1 to 5pm, Saturday from 9am to noon and 1 to 5pm, and Sunday from 10am to noon and 2 to 5pm.

De Panne

Essentials

9 THE BELGIAN COAST & YPRES

Rozenlaan 20 (at Zandmannetjesweg), 8670 Oostduinkerke. & 058/52-11-00. Fax 058/52-12-00. www.hotel-argos.be. 6 units. 85€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; free station transfers; bikes. Inroom: TV.

What to See & Do A stroll through De Panne’s tree-lined residential streets, with rows of delightful Art Nouveau villas from another era, and traditional fishermen’s cottages still in use (on Veurnestraat), is a delight. But outdoor recreation is what people come to De Panne 201

for. With all those dunes to explore and the beach for sunning, swimming, horseback riding, and sand-yachting—a form of overland sailing in a colorful sailboat with wheels (see box “Rolling Before the Wind,” below)—no one’s ever short of things to do.

NATURE RESERVES

THE BELGIAN COAST & YPRES

De Panne

Four nature areas around De Panne are all free and open daily. The most important, Westhoekreservaat (Westhoek Reserve) , 340 hectares (840 acres) on the western edge of De Panne, is the largest dunes landscape on the Belgian coast. Although vacation developments squeeze right up against its boundary, once you’re immersed in this broad vista of sand, dubbed “the Sahara,” you’ll find it hard to believe you’re in the same country as the overdeveloped seacoast. Vegetation varies from full-grown trees to scrubby shrubs. In the springtime, wildflowers blossom among the sands; in winter shallow rainwater pools accumulate. The dunes change both their shape and position as contrary winds imperceptibly move the grains beneath your feet. You’re obliged to tour on four signposted footpaths, because tramping on the dunes causes erosion, scares off nesting birds, and damages the fragile life-support system of rare indigenous plants, including orchids (sadly, some visitors ignore this stipulation). At a closed animal reserve are Shetland ponies, Highland cattle, and wild horses, in an attempt to mimic the scene from a century ago. The dunes continue across the border into France. The 93-hectare (230-acre) Cabourduinen (Cabour Dunes), straddling the French border, is another area that affords nature walks. Calmeynbos (Calmeyn Wood), which covers only 45 hectares (111 acres), is the legacy of one man, Maurice Calmeyn, who in 1903 began to plant trees here to preserve the dunes. Some 25 varieties of his trees are thriving today. East of De Panne is the 60-hectare (148-acre) Oosthoekduinen (Oosthoek Dunes), which has more dunes and woods. For detailed information about all these reserves and for guided tours, go to the Bezoekerscentrum De Nachtegaal (Nightingale Visitor Center), Olmendreef 2 (&058/42-21-51; www.vbncdenachtegaal.be).

ESPECIALLY FOR KIDS Plopsaland It’s instant enchantment for children at this adventure park, where a multitude of delightful attractions will appeal to the whole family. There’s Elfira (a fairy-tale wonderland), an animal park, a jungle fantasy parrot show, a water symphony, Carioca (all sorts of playground activities), and Phantom Guild, with three different fun fairs filled with rides. De Pannelaan 68. &058/42-02-02. www.plopsa.be. Admission 28€ adults, 7.50€ children under 1m (3 ft., 3 in.). July–Aug daily 10am–6pm; other months generally Wed–Sun 10am–6pm, but with many variations; call ahead or check website for calendar.

Where to Stay Set among the dunes, about 150m (492 ft.) from the beach, this hotel attracts guests because of its scenery. Some of the rooms have balconies facing the sea, and all are comfortably furnished in a style that complements the contemporary look of the building.

Hotel Donny

Donnylaan 17, 8660 De Panne. & 058/42-10-00. Fax 058/42-09-78. www.hoteldonny.com. 45 units. 90€–130€ double; 160€–185€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; health club; heated indoor pool. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

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Rolling Before the Wind The long, wide beaches, firm sand, and frequent strong winds at De Panne make for ideal conditions for sand-yachting. You’re outfitted with a jumpsuit and crash helmet, given a few tips on how to handle the vehicles, and pushed out into the wind. The sand yachts are unwieldy to handle at first and heavier than they look, so maintaining stability can be difficult until you get the hang of it. But once you do, it’s exhilarating. Sand-yachting lessons are given by qualified members of the sport’s local

federation, the Landelijke Zeilwagen Federatie (&058/41-57-47; www. lazef.be). They cost 9€ per hour per sand-yacht (a course requires at least six students for a minimum time of 3 hours), plus 30€ per hour for an instructor, who can lead up to 10 students. High tides, too-high winds, and other adverse weather conditions may lead to cancellation. Due to the limited number of sand-yachts and instructors, you should reserve ahead of time.

9 FRENCH/SEAFOOD Although pricey, this is the best restaurant in town. The Buyens family has upheld the stellar reputation of its Michelin-star establishment into a second generation, with son Stéphane now at the helm in the kitchen. Most menu items change seasonally, but a strong contingent of seafood offerings is fairly stable. Turbot with a variety of minced mushrooms and a fennel-and-tomato ragout is a good choice; so are salmon-and-asparagus fondue and one of the French regional meat courses. Unlike most restaurants along the coast, Le Fox leaves mussels off the menu but amply makes up for this omission with oysters, scampi, langoustines (spiny lobster), and shrimp. Thoughtfully selected French wines from admirable wineries fill the wine cellar.

Le Fox

YPRES

Ypres

Walckiersstraat 2 (in the Hostellerie Le Fox, off the seafront). &058/41-28-55. www.hotelfox.be. Main courses 25€–49€; fixed-price lunch 45€, fixed price dinner menus 48€–95€. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Sun noon–2:30pm; Tues–Sun 7–9:45pm.

THE BELGIAN COAST & YPRES

Where to Dine

110km (68 miles) W of Brussels; 45km (28 miles) SW of Bruges

Set among the low, gentle slopes of the West Flanders Heuvelland (Hill Country), Ypres (Ieper in Dutch) owed its early prosperity to a textile industry that peaked in the 13th century. Over the centuries, the handsome town (pronounced ee-pruh; pop. 35,000) was victimized by one war after another. By far the most devastating was World War I (1914–18); hardly a brick was left standing after 4 years of violent bombardments. Ypres was one of the slaughterhouses on the Western Front. In the few square miles of the Ypres salient, 250,000 soldiers from the British Empire, France, and Belgium were killed, along with an equal number of Germans. The tally of wounded on all sides reached 1.2 million. Many visitors come to Ypres to remember those who fell on the surrounding battlefields and who now rest on the green breast of the Heuvelland. In the rolling countryside around the town, you can visit no fewer than 185 serene World War I military cemeteries. 203

Brick by brick, most important medieval buildings in the town have been reconstructed exactly as they were, carefully following original plans. This accounts for the pristine look of venerable monuments, instead of the moldering stones you might expect.

Essentials

THE BELGIAN COAST & YPRES

Ypres

GETTING THERE Because it lies in a corner of Belgium that’s awkward to reach, some visitors combine a visit to Ypres with a trip to Bruges or the nearby seacoast resorts. Trains depart hourly from Bruges. Look out for the Dutch name, Ieper, on the station name board. The trip takes around 1 hour, and you may need to change trains at Kortrijk. Going by bus from Bruges is a bad option unless you have time to take in every haystack and hamlet along the way. By car from Bruges, take A17/E403 south to the Kortrijk interchange, and then A19 west; from the coast at De Panne, take N8 south. VISITOR INFORMATION Toerisme Ieper is in the Lakenhalle, Grote Markt 34, 8900 Ieper (&057/23-92-20; fax 057/23-92-75; www.toerisme-ieper.be), in the center of town. The office is open April to September Monday to Friday from 9am to 6pm and weekends from 10am to 6pm; October to March, hours are Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm and weekends from 10am to 5pm. GETTING AROUND Sights in town are easily reached on foot, though if you’re arriving by train, you’ll save time by taking almost any De Lijn bus (check with the driver) from the bus station outside the train station for the 5-minute ride to the Grote Markt. Taxis generally are available at the train station, or call Taxi Leo (&057/20-04-13). SPECIAL EVENTS Every 3 years on the second Sunday in May, Ypres celebrates a colorful pageant, the Kattenstoet (Festival of the Cats), during which the town jester throws cats from the Belfry to the people below. The custom originated centuries ago, at a time when cats were considered a “familiar” of witches, and evolved into the tradition of today’s lively carnival and procession. Outraged cat lovers can simmer down; these days the flying felines are fluffy toys. The next Kattenstoet is on May 13, 2012.

Seeing the Sights Most of the gabled guild houses and mansions around the Grote Markt are occupied now by restaurants, cafes, and hotels. At the western end of this central square, Ypres’s medieval wealth is reflected in its extravagant Gothic Lakenhalle (Cloth . The original, constructed between 1250 and 1304 along the Ieperlee Hall) River (long since banished underground), was blown to pieces between 1914 and 1918, and reconstructed with painstaking care, though the work wasn’t finished until 1967. Gilded statues adorn the roof, and a statue of Our Lady of Thuyne, the patron of Ypres, stands over the main entrance, the Donkerpoort. Inside, the first-floor halls where wool and cloth were sold are now used for exhibits; the upper floor houses the In Flanders Fields Museum (see below). A Flemish Renaissance extension, the arcaded Nieuwerck (1624) houses Ypres’s Stadhuis (Town Hall). You can visit the council chamber and view its fine stainedglass window Monday to Friday from 8:30 to 11:45am when the council is not in session. Admission is free.

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Ypres

A STANDOUT WAR (OR PEACE) MUSEUM

9 THE BELGIAN COAST & YPRES

From the center of the Lakenhalle, the Belfort (Belfry), which has four corner turrets and a spire and encloses a 49-bell carillon, soars 70m (230 ft.). You get fine views over the town from here, provided you’re willing and able to climb 264 steps to the upper gallery. Carillon concerts chime out on Saturday from 11am to noon and Sunday from 4 to 5pm. The spire of the 13th-century Gothic Sint-Martenskathedraal (St. Martin’s Cathedral), on Sint-Maartensplein, is another town landmark. Inside is the tomb of Cornelius Jansen (1585–1638), a bishop of Ypres whose doctrine of predestination, Jansenism, rocked the Catholic Church and was condemned as heretical by the pope in 1642. Britain’s armed forces donated the stained-glass rose window in honor of Belgium’s World War I “soldier king,” Albert I. The cathedral is open to visitors daily from 8am to 8pm except during services. Admission is free. Behind St. Martin’s, the Celtic cross Munster Memorial honors Irish soldiers killed in World War I. Across the way, British and Commonwealth veterans made the Anglican St. George’s Memorial Church (1929) in Elverdingsestraat (&057/2156-85), a shrine to their fallen comrades. Wall-mounted banners and pew kneelers decorated with colorful corps and regimental badges add an almost festive air to what might otherwise be a somber scene. The church is open daily from 9:30am to dusk (4pm in winter). Admission is free. At Meensepoort (Menen Gate), on the marble arch of the Missing Memorial , are inscribed the names of 54,896 British troops killed around Ypres between 1914 and August 15, 1917, who have no known grave. Every evening at 8 o’clock, traffic through the gate is stopped while Ypres firefighters in dress uniform sound the plaintive notes of “The Last Post” on silver bugles, in a brief but moving ceremony that dates from 1928. Adjacent to this, the Australian Memorial honors the more than 43,000 Aussies who lost their lives in the Ypres salient. The impressive 17th-century ramparts designed by the French military engineer Vauban, fronted by a moat that once surrounded the town, are among the few structures not demolished during World War I. You reach them via stairs at the Menen Gate and walk around a pleasant park to Rijselsepoort (Lille Gate). On nearby Rijselsestraat, no. 204 is a timber house from 1575. Streets hereabouts are lined with reconstructed 17th-century facades. “War is hell” is the clear message of this superb interactive museum. You “experience” the Great War through the eyes of the ordinary soldiers and civilians who did so without the quote marks to get an idea of the events of those 4 dreadful years. No series of dry and dusty historical exhibits, it is as much a peace museum as a war museum—it could scarcely be otherwise, considering the awesome slaughter that took place on the battlefields around the town, which makes any talk about winners and losers, or of glory, seem obscene. The museum won the 2000 Museum Award of the Council of Europe for its innovative presentation.

In Flanders Fields Museum

Lakenhalle, Grote Markt 34. &057/23-92-20. www.inflandersfields.be. Admission 8€ adults, 1€ ages 7–25, free for children 6 and under (tickets also afford free admission to the Stedelijk Museum and Godshuis Belle Museum; see below). Apr to mid-Nov daily 10am–6pm; mid-Nov to Mar Tues–Sun 10am– 5pm. Closed first 3 weeks of Jan and Dec 25.

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Into the Salient

THE BELGIAN COAST & YPRES

Ypres

Flanders Battlefield Tours, Slachthuisstraat 58 (&057/36-04-60; www. ypres-fbt.be), and Salient Tours, Meensestraat 5 (&057/21-46-57; www.salienttours.com), run minibus tours of the battlefields and memorials around Ypres, ranging from 2 hours to a full day. Prices begin at 35€. The Ypres tourist office can furnish a package for the In Flanders Fields Route, a self-guided tour of 80km (50 miles) on signposted roads that cover all the main sights. For a less ambitious, 1- to 2-hour self-guided tour by car, head out of town through the Menen Gate and take N8 to Canadalaan, close to Bellewaerde Park (see below). At the end, in Sanctuary Wood, is a preserved stretch of trenches peppered with shell holes and shattered trees. Amazingly, almost no

other sign remains of the vast network of muddy, waterlogged trenches— nature has reclaimed the once-tortured landscape. Nearby stands the Canadian Monument on Hill 62. Return to N8. Then take N332 and N303 through Zonnebeke in the direction of Passendale (Passchendaele in French), to the Tyne Cot Commonwealth Military Cemetery, with its 12,000 graves surmounted by a Cross of Remembrance in white Portland stone. In 1917, Passendale was dubbed “Passiondale” by British and Commonwealth troops, who took the village at a cost of 140,000 dead. Finally, head west from Zonnebeke to the far side of Langemark and the 44,000 graves at the Deutscher Soldatenfriedhof (German Military Cemetery). N313 takes you back to Ypres.

OTHER SIGHTS AROUND TOWN In the Sint-Jansgodshuis, a reconstructed almshouse from 1270, the Stedelijk Museum (Municipal Museum), Ieperleestraat 31 (&057/23-92-20), recounts the town’s history through paintings, antique maps, and sculpture. A fine-arts section has sculpture, silverware, porcelain, and more. The museum is open April to October Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 12:30pm and 2 to 6pm, and November to March Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 12:30pm and 2 to 5pm. Admission is 2.50€ for adults, 0.50€ for children 7 to 15, and free for children 6 and under. The Godshuis Belle Museum, Rijselsestraat 38 (& 057/23-92-20), in an almshouse from 1276, counts among its treasures the Virgin and Child by the anonymous Master of 1420. Other exhibits include religious paintings from the 16th to the 19th centuries, by artists such as Nicolaas van de Velde and Gilles Lamoot. In addition, there’s pewter, lace, and antique furniture. The museum is open April to October Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to noon and 2 to 6pm. Admission is 2.50€ for adults, 0.50€ for children 7 to 15, and free for children 6 and under.

ESPECIALLY FOR KIDS Check out Bellewaerde Park, Meenseweg 497, Ieper (& 057/46-86-86; www. bellewaerdepark.be). This theme park combines white-knuckle rides with a wildlife reserve, various recreated natural environments, and a zone called KidsPark for the tiniest tots, with audiovisual specials like the 4D film Turtle Vision. Bellewaerde is set in what was once the wasteland of the World War I front lines. The park is open April to June daily 10am to 6pm (7pm weekends), July daily 10am to 7pm, August daily

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10am to 9pm, and September to mid-October weekends from 10am to 6pm. Admission is 27€ for adults, 23€ for children between 1m and 1.4m (3 ft., 3 in.–4 ft., 7 in.), and free for children under 1m (3 ft., 3 in).

Where to Stay Old Tom This family-owned hotel has a prime location in the center of town and reasonable rates. With only nine rooms, it fills up fast in summer. The building has plenty of antique style, and the guest rooms are comfortable and nicely, if plainly, furnished. A cafe-restaurant on the first floor has an outdoor terrace and serves regional specialties, like eels, in addition to common Flemish menu dishes. Grote Markt 8, 8900 Ieper. &057/20-15-41. Fax 057/21-91-20. www.oldtom.be. 9 units. 70€ double. MC, V. Parking 9€. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. Inroom: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

On the outside, the building that houses this small, neo-Gothic-style hotel looks as if it dates from Ypres’s medieval heyday, but like most of the town, it was raised anew out of the rubble left behind by World War I. When you enter, you leave the somber past at the door and step into an ambience as cool as a modernart museum. Guest rooms at the front have views of the Lakenhalle and the Grote Markt fountain. The invariably busy Regina restaurant serves West Flanders regional cuisine.

Regina

Where to Dine FLEMISH You’ll find this stylish restaurant in the north of town beyond a moat. Decorated in a spare, modern style, it’s quite different from the traditional type of eatery in Ypres. It has a light, open dining room and a garden with an alfresco terrace and a play area for children. The menu offers seafood and updated versions of Flemish dishes. Some of them, like the entrecôte (steak with truffles), are cooked on an open grill. There’s generally a vegetarian option on the menu.

De Waterpoort

Ypres

Brugseweg 43 (6 blocks north of Grote Markt on Diksmuidestraat and Arthur Stoffelstraat). & 057/20-54-52. www.waterpoort.be. Main courses 17€–30€; fixed-price menu 35€. AE, MC, V. Thurs–Sat and Mon–Tues noon–2:30pm; Thurs–Tues 6–10:30pm.

THE BELGIAN COAST & YPRES

Grote Markt 45, 8900 Ieper. &057/21-88-88. Fax 057/21-90-20. www.hotelregina.be. 17 units. 75€– 100€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. Inroom: TV, minibar.

Ter Posterie FLEMISH This traditional cafe-restaurant, down a narrow alleyway off Arthur Merghelynckstraat, serves basic Flemish fare. Look out for mussels in season, sole, and steak with french fries. These are accompanied by no less than 170 different Belgian beers, including the local—and expensive—Poperings Hommelbier, and all six of Belgium’s Trappist beers, among them Westmalle Dubbel, the only Trappist beer that’s on tap. Weather permitting, dine and drink outdoors in the courtyard; the plainly furnished interior is convivial when it’s busy but can seem somewhat gloomy out of season. Rijselsestraat 57 (off Grote Markt). &057/20-05-80. www.terposterie.be. Snacks and salads 4.50€– 15€; main courses 16€–21€. No credit cards. Thurs–Tues 11am–2am.

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LIÈGE, THE MEUSE RIVER & HAINAUT

he steep-sided Meuse River Valley has long been an important tourist area. After rolling across northern France, the Meuse takes an L-shaped course through

Belgium, and then crosses into Holland (where its name changes to the Maas). Along its Belgian banks are historic towns, strikingly situated châteaux and abbeys, impressive scenery—and aging industrial plants and smokestacks that spoil views, particularly around Liège.

It’s best to do the Meuse Valley as a driving tour, beginning at Liège and heading upstream to Namur, Huy, and Dinant. Once you get beyond Liège’s industrial environs, the riverside scenery evolves into a picturesque landscape. Due to frequent and fast connections, it’s just as possible to base yourself in either Liège or Namur and tour by train and bus. From Dinant, either head east into the Ardennes (see chapter 11) or go west into Hainaut, the lush and verdant, lake-speckled “Green Province” that stretches along most of Belgium’s border with France. Tournai and Mons are the repositories of great art and historical treasures.

LIÈGE 89km (55 miles) SE of Brussels; 27km (17 miles) NE of Huy; 54km (34 miles) NE of Namur

Fervent, lively Liège (pop. 190,000), straddling the Meuse and with a backdrop of Ardennes foothills, has been dubbed “La Cité Ardente” (“the Passionate City”). Nowadays it exudes in part the aura of aging industrial gloom, but that seems to fade next to its gracefully down-at-the-heels 19th-century monuments, and remnants from the time of its powerful ruling prince-bishops. Liège has always had an independent spirit; its 12th-century charter decreed that the pauvre homme en sa maison est roi (the poor man is king in his home)—an attitude still vividly alive in Liège today.

Essentials GETTING THERE There are two to four trains an hour to Liège from Brussels (59 min.) and Antwerp (2 hr. 9 min.), and one an hour from Maastricht in Holland (30 min.) and from Luxembourg (2 hr. 27 min.); all

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ACCOMMODATIONS Best Western Hotel Univers 20 Le Campanile 12 Le Cygne d’Argent 19 Ramada Plaza Liège City Center 1 DINING Bruit Qui Court 13 Chez Rabah/Le Mechoui 15 Tchantchès & Nanesse 16

ATTRACTIONS Aquarium-Museum de Liège 18 Cathédrale St-Paul de Liège 14 Citadelle 7 Eglise St-Barthélemy 2 Grand Curtius 3 Marché La Batte 5 Montagne de Bueren 6 Musée de l’Art Wallon 4 Musée de la Vie Wallonne 8 Musée Tchantchès 17 Palais des Prince-Evêques 9 place du Marché 10 place St-Lambert 11 Val Saint Lambert 21

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The Town Mascot Liège’s most beloved symbol is Tchantchès, a puppet that has been the spokesman of the streets since the 1850s. He’s usually dressed in a blue smock, patched trousers, tasseled floppy hat, and red scarf, and he’s

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constantly either grumbling or espousing every noble cause in sight—the personification of your average, everyday Liégeois. A statue of Tchantchès stands on place de l’Yser in the Outremeuse district.

times are for the fastest direct trains. In addition, the Thalys high-speed train arrives via Brussels from Paris and Amsterdam, and direct from Cologne, as well as German ICE high-speed trains from Cologne. Train information is available from SNCB/ Belgian Railways (& 02/528-28-28; www.b-rail.be). The city’s main station is Gare Liège-Guillemins, rue des Guillemins, just south of the center of town. In 2009, the old Guillemins station, a crumbling concrete relic from 1958, which had superceded a Belle Epoque gem from 1905, was itself replaced by a spectacular new, domed structure designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava Valls. A smaller, more centrally located station, Gare Liège-Palais, on rue de Bruxelles, is used by some local and connecting trains. One of the city’s two main bus stations is in front of the Guillemins station; the other is right in the heart of town on place St-Lambert. Regional buses arrive from other places along the Meuse, such as Namur, Huy, and Dinant (and from Maastricht in Holland), and from Verviers in the Ardennes, which has connections with points like Spa and Eupen. Bus information is available from TEC (& 04/361-94-44; www.infotec.be). By car from Brussels, take A3/E40 east; from Namur, take either A15/E42 or the scenic riverside N90. VISITOR INFORMATION The city’s Office du Tourisme is at Féronstrée 92, 4000 Liège (& 04/221-92-21; fax 04/221-92-22; www.liege.be), 6 blocks east of place St-Lambert and 1 block back from the river. It’s open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm, Saturday 10am to 4:30pm, and Sunday from 10am to 2:30pm (closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1, and Dec 25). CITY LAYOUT The Old Town, which contains most of Liège’s sightseeing attractions, and nighttime entertainment in the student-filled Carré district, is on the west bank of the Meuse, bounded by rue de l’Université, boulevard de la Sauvenière, and rue Pont-d’Avroy. On the east bank, the Outremeuse (Across the Meuse) district has a big choice of lively bars. GETTING AROUND Sightseeing highlights in the Old Town are close together, so central Liège is easily walkable, though traffic can be frenetic. The city’s excellent bus system is not hard to figure out, since many stops have network maps. Buses, useful for getting to sights outside the Old Town, cost 1.40€ for a one-way ride. Discounted eight-ride “Agglo Liège” tickets for 6.50€ are available from booths at major route stops and at the train stations. Place St-Lambert, an important central interchange point, is reached from Gare des Guillemins by lines 1, 2, 3, and 4. City bus information is available from TEC (&04/361-94-44; www.infotec.be). For a taxi, call Liège-Tax (&0800/32-200 or 04/367-50-40; www.liege-tax.be).

What to See & Do Monumental place St-Lambert and neighboring place du Marché, surrounded by buildings in the Mosan Renaissance style, are the hub of Liège’s daily life. This is where you find the 1698-vintage Perron Fountain, the city’s symbol of freedom, and the 18th-century Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall). French-inspired local revolutionaries in 1795 destroyed the sumptuous Gothic Cathédrale St-Lambert (St. Lambert’s Cathedral) on place St-Lambert, a symbol of the prince-bishopric’s hated ancien régime. Only its outline is preserved in modern paving. Excavations on the square have revealed the foundations of a Roman villa, and traces of the early medieval city dating from the 7th century. The prince-bishops (see the box “The Belgian Rome,” below), who ruled the city and the surrounding territory from 980 to 1794, constructed the world’s largest secular Gothic building: the Palais des Prince-Evêques (Prince-Bishops Palace), on place St-Lambert. Of primary interest are the two inner courtyards, one lined with 60 carved columns depicting the follies of human nature, and the other occupied by an ornamental garden. Today, this historic building is Liège’s Palais de Justice (Palace of Justice), housing courtrooms and lawyers’ offices. The chambers, hung with antique Brussels tapestries, are not normally open to visitors, but it’s sometimes possible to arrange a guided tour with the tourist office. Visit the courtyards Monday to Friday from 10am to 5pm; admission is free.

MUSEUMS Centered on a riverside Mosan Renaissance mansion, the Palais Curtius, constructed in the early 1600s by arms manufacturer Jean Curtius, is a grand museum complex uniting six important Liège collections: Archaeology, Decorative Arts, Religious Art, Mosan (Meuse Valley) Art, Weaponry, and Glass. It opened in 2009 after a long period of restoration. You can trace the history of the Meuse region from the Gallo-Roman and Frankish eras through the medieval period and on into the 18th century, gaining a remarkable glimpse of the breathtaking riches of this city’s past. One room holds the relics of Prince-Bishop Notger of the 900s, whose Evangeliary (prayer book) is covered with exquisitely carved ivory. There are portraits and richly embroidered vestments of the prince-bishops, and furniture and works of art from homes of wealthy Liégeois. In addition, there are fine examples of Venetian, Phoenician, Roman, Chinese, and Belgian glassware. Manufacturing weapons has been a major Liège industry for centuries, and the museum displays more than 3,000 historical weapons, including a prehistoric stone ax and 15th-century muzzle-loaded firearms.

Grand Curtius

Liège

Small but impressive, the collection of works by Walloon (French-speaking Belgian) artists and sculptors extends from the 16th century to the present. Paul Delvaux’s L’Homme de la Rue (1940) is one of the premier works. Many other well-known, and not-so-well-known, artists from the 16th to the 21st centuries are represented, including Constant Meunier, Antoine Wiertz, Félicien Rops, René Magritte, Roger Somville, and Pierre Alechinsky.

Musée de l’Art Wallon (Museum of Walloon Art)

LIÈGE, THE MEUSE RIVER & HAINAUT

Féronstrée 136 (at rue du Mont-de-Piété). &04/221-68-17. www.grandcurtiusliege.be. Admission 9€ adults; 5€ seniors, students, and children 12–18; free for children 11 and under; free for all visitors 1st Sun of the month; 20€ family. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1–2 and 11, and Dec 25.

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Féronstrée 86 (at rue Velbruck). &04/221-92-31. www.museeartwallon.be. Admission 5€ adults; 3€ seniors, students, and children 12–18; free for children 11 and under; free for all visitors 1st Sun of the month. Tues–Sat 1–6pm; Sun 11am–4:30pm. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1–2 and 11, and Dec 24–26 and 31.

An incredible array of exhibits, housed in a 17th-century former Franciscan convent, bring to life the days of 19th-century Walloons and their rich traditions and customs. The collection affords the unusual opportunity to view in one place examples of popular art, crafts, and recreation, and even the workings of a coal mine, which is reproduced in the building’s basement. Here, too, is a marvelous puppet collection, which includes the beloved Tchantchès (whose main “home” is the Museum Tchantchès; see below) and a representation of another local hero, if not perhaps one quite so beloved, the Emperor Charlemagne. The puppets occasionally “star” in shows at the museum’s Marionettes Theater.

Musée de la Vie Wallonne (Museum of Walloon Life)

Cour des Mineurs 1 (off rue Hors-Château). & 04/237-90-50. www.viewallonne.be. Admission: museum 5€ adults, 4€ seniors and students, 3€ children 6–18, free for children 5 and under; Marionettes Theater 2€. Tues–Sun 9:30am–6pm. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1, and Dec 25.

If your children have fallen under the spell of the city’s favorite puppet (see “The Town Mascot,” above), come here to find a marvelous collection of his cohorts and their costumes, and to discover the remarkable history of this character, the intimate of emperors and bishops. Liège marionette theater developed during the 19th century, the puppets having a limited range of gesture and movement that makes them particularly easy for children to appreciate. And the more important the character, the bigger the puppet. From October to April, there are marionette performances; call ahead for schedules.

Musée Tchantchès (Tchantchès Museum)

LIÈGE, THE MEUSE RIVER & HAINAUT

Liège

Rue Surlet 56 (at place Delcour, in Outremeuse). &04/342-75-75. www.tchantches.be. Admission: museum 1€; marionette theater performance 3€. Tues and Thurs 2–4pm; also Oct–Apr during marionette theater performances Sun 10:30am and Wed 2:30pm.

SIGHTS OF RELIGIOUS SIGNIFICANCE Cathédrale St-Paul de Liège (Cathedral of St. Paul of Liège) The formerly plain old (13th–15th c.) Church of St. Paul was raised to cathedral status to replace the city’s grand Gothic Cathedral of Our Lady and St. Lambert, destroyed by French and local revolutionaries in 1795. Ask the sacristan to show you the cathedral’s priceless treasures. These include a white marble–and-oak pulpit and the 13thcentury polychrome Madonna and Child by the high altar. The Trésor (Treasury) in the church cloister holds a small but exquisite collection that includes a gold reliquary that was Burgundian Duke Charles the Bold’s gift of “penance” after he wiped out the city and every able-bodied man in it in 1468. This masterpiece, the work of Charles’s court jeweler, shows a repentant duke kneeling as St. George looks on (there’s no word about whether the surviving populace were satisfied with this gesture). Nearby, a bas-relief depicting the Crucifixion is said to contain a piece of the True Cross. Equally impressive is the reliquary of St. Lambert, which dates from the early 1500s and holds the saint’s skull. Place de la Cathédrale (at rue Pont d’Avroy). &04/232-61-32. www.tresordeliege.be. Admission: cathedral free; treasury 5€ adults; 3€ seniors, students, and children 6–16; free for children 5 and under. Cathedral Mon–Sat 10am–6pm; Sun 1–6pm. Treasury Tues–Sun 2–5pm. Treasury closed Jan 1 and Dec 24–25 and 31.

Eglise St-Barthélemy (Church of St. Bartholomew) This twin-towered Romanesque church dates from 1108. Its Fonts Baptismaux (Baptismal Font) is counted among Belgium’s most important historical treasures, a masterpiece of the 212

THE BELGIAN rome The prince-bishops of Liège combined the roles of head of state and head of the church, but they were churchmen first and foremost—and unencumbered by the dynastic fixation of monarchs with blood lines to perpetuate. Notger (or Notker) of Liège, at the end of the 10th century, was the first prince-bishop. Of Germanic origin, he had been an adviser to the Holy Roman Emperor Otto II and liked to keep up appearances in his new career. He constructed churches and other religious

edifices, surrounded the city with a defensive wall, and in general acted to enhance the city-state’s prestige. Thanks to Notger, Liège became a center of art, culture, and religion that fully deserved to be dubbed “Rome Beyond the Alps.” A medieval chronicler commented that the city “owed Notger to Christ and the rest to Notger.” The prince-bishopric was overthrown with the help of the French revolutionary army in 1794.

Mosan Art style that flourished in the Meuse Valley during the Middle Ages. The big copper-and-brass font, cast in the early 1100s by master metalsmith Renier de Huy, rests on the backs of 10 sculptured oxen and is surrounded by five biblical scenes.

OTHER SIGHTS Though owned by the University of Liège and housed in the university’s neoclassical Zoological Institute, the Aquarium isn’t a dry academic institution. Attractively presented underwater displays bring together 2,500 examples from 250 marine species. The exhibits cover a lot of ground—or water—in their 46 display tanks. Pride of place, for most younger visitors at any rate, goes to the 4,420-gallon shark tank. The Salle des Coraux (Coral Room) contains beautiful specimens collected from Australia’s Great Barrier Reef by a university expedition from 1966 to 1967. The ragged-looking Zoological Museum on the same premises has some 20,000 exhibits, including the skeleton of a 19m (62-ft.) whale. In its foyer is the mural La Genèse (Genesis; 1960) by Belgian artist Paul Delvaux, which depicts a kind of Garden of Eden scene, with smoke from volcanoes staining the skies of Creation. Aquarium-Museum de Liège

Liège

Quai van Beneden 22 (along the Meuse at Pont Kennedy). &04/366-50-21. www.aquarium-museum. ulg.ac.be. Admission 6€ adults; 5€ seniors, students, and children 13–18; 4.30€ children 6–12; free for children 5 and under. Sept–June (except Easter school vacation) Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun and holidays 10:30am–6pm; Easter school vacation and July–Aug Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun and holidays 10:30am–6pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 24–25 and 31.

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Place St-Barthélemy (off rue Féronstrée). & 04/250-23-72. www.st-barthelemy.be. Admission 2€ adults, 1.25€ seniors, 0.75€ students, 0.50€ children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Mon–Sat 10am– noon and 2–5pm; Sun 2–5pm.

This place would be interesting enough if only to watch the company’s craftsmen at work making the renowned hand-blown crystal that bears the Val Saint Lambert label. But you’ll also find the remains of a 13th-century Cistercian abbey, the 16th-century Mosan Renaissance–style Château du Val St-Lambert, and examples of industrial archaeology from the 18th and 19th centuries. You can buy finished crystal—including slightly flawed pieces at a considerable discount—from the factory store. Housed in the château, Cristal Discovery (& 04/330-36-20;

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www.cristalpark.com) features some of Val Saint Lambert’s craftsmen at work, displays particularly fine antique pieces, and takes in a tour of the workshop. Even so, I think the admission is steep enough that you’d want to be pretty sure of your interest in crystalware before stumping up. Rue de Val 245, Seraing (southwest of Liège, beside the Meuse, on N90). &04/330-38-00. www. val-saint-lambert.com. Admission 12€ adults, 10€ seniors, 6€ children 6–18, free for children 5 and under. Daily 9am–5pm.

THE CITADEL

LIÈGE, THE MEUSE RIVER & HAINAUT

Liège

For superb views of the city and the broad, curving Meuse, climb the 353 steps of the Montagne de Bueren, a street that ascends from rue Hors-Château. At the top of the hill, commanding even finer panoramic views, is the site of the Citadelle (Citadel), which has been a setting for more than its share of the bloodier side of Liège’s history. It was here in 1468 that 600 citizens made a heroic but ill-considered assault on Duke Charles the Bold of Burgundy, who had sparked a revolt by installing one of his cousins as prince-bishop and was encamped with his Burgundian troops. They penetrated almost to Charles’s tent before being beaten off and massacred to the man. In retaliation, Charles ordered the city’s complete destruction, a task that continued for several weeks and left only the churches standing. A decisive battle in Belgium’s fight for independence from the Dutch took place here in 1830. In 1914, Belgian troops held German forces at bay long enough for the French to regroup and go on to a vitally important victory at the Battle of the Marne, thereby saving Paris. German troops again met with typically stubborn resistance from the city’s defenders in 1940. The Citadel Hospital now occupies the site.

RIVER CRUISES From April to October, hour-long cruises on the Meuse are operated by Compagnie des Bateaux (&082/22-23-15; www.bateaux-meuse.be). They aren’t wildly exciting, but they are an easy way to view the city along the river. They depart daily at 11am and 1, 3, and 5pm, from Quai van Beneden, outside the Aquarium (see above). Tickets are 6.50€ for adults, 6€ for seniors and children 13 to 18, 5.50€ for children 6 to 12, and 4.50€ for children 5 and under.

Where to Stay You won’t get any closer to the city’s main rail station than this, and although you trade this convenience for being close to the centercity action, you’re just a few steps away from multiple buses that get you there in no time (or you can walk there in about 20 min.). There’s good value in this medium-size hotel, housed in a building that dates from 1900 but has been renovated and updated—not with any great emphasis on style. The guest rooms are modest in decor but clean and bright. Though there’s no restaurant on the premises, many are within walking distance.

Best Western Hotel Univers

Rue des Guillemins 116 (across from Gare Liège-Guillemins), 4000 Liège. & 04/254-55-55. Fax 04/254-55-00. www.univershotel.be. 51 units. 69€–105€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Amenities: Bar. Inroom: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (3€/day).

If you’re touring by car, this motel-style hotel is a good choice, since it’s just 200m (656 ft.) from an expressway ramp (and just 5 min. by bus to the center city). Guest rooms are spacious. A recent refurbishment, comprising new beds and color-coordinated duvets and walls in restful brown and light-brown tones, has added greatly to both their character and their comfort level, thereby extending what

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was an already good quality-to-price ratio. The Continental restaurant is by no means one of the city’s culinary trendsetters, but it’s acceptable. Rue Jean-Baptiste Juppin 17–18, 4000 Liège. &04/224-02-72. Fax 04/224-03-80. www.campanileliege.be. 50 units. 65€–135€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. Inroom: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Le Cygne d’Argent A homey atmosphere pervades this small, family-owned hotel, on a quiet side street in a leafy neighborhood just south of the center city, between the Jardin Botanique and the Parc d’Avroy. The guest rooms vary in size and have been refurbished and refitted, to a smooth design that integrates new beds, closets, desks, drapes, and carpets into a restful ensemble of pastel tones and soft lighting. All together, it affords a tolerable approach to indulgence for a hotel in this price category. Rue Beeckman 49 (off bd. d’Avroy), 4000 Liège. &04/223-70-01. Fax 04/222-49-66. www.cygne dargent.be. 22 units. 75€–83€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 9€. Inroom: TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Located beside the Meuse and a short walk from the bustling old streets rue Hors Château and Féronstrée, which lead to the heart of the city, this high-rise hotel is equipped to the latest business standards, following a top-to-bottom makeover. Front-room windows overlook the river, and though there’s a busy road out front, from high up you won’t notice that. All rooms have comfortable armchairs along with firm beds. The in-house restaurant, located in an arched 17th-century convent building, has some traditional Liège dishes on the menu, though they are both prepared and presented with more than the usual level of refinement for such fare.

Ramada Plaza Liège City Center

Where to Dine Liège has a great diversity of restaurants, thanks in part to the various ethnic communities here. Italian, Spanish, Turkish, North African, Greek, and other immigrants have settled in the city and brought their favorite dishes with them. The popularity of Walloon cuisine adds regional specialties to the mix. Bruit Qui Court FRENCH/BELGIAN An imposing 19th-century building, formerly a bank, confers a certain class on this establishment, which is matched by the refined cuisine. Light dishes, such as salads and quiches, predominate and often

Liège

Local Heroes The Liégeois are especially fond of their boudin blanc de Liège (white sausage); grives (thrushes) and goose; boulet frites avec sirop de Liège (meatballs in a sauce made from pear-andapple syrup, served with french fries); tarte au riz (rice flan); bouquette (a

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Quai St-Léonard 36 (at rue de Marengo), 4000 Liège. & 1-800/272-6232 or 04/228-81-11. Fax 04/227-45-75. www.ramadaplaza-liege.com. 149 units. 155€–275€ double; 375€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; room service. Inroom: A/C, TV, Internet (free), minibar (executive rooms only).

kind of pancake); botées aux carottes ou au chou (a kind of stew made with potatoes, cabbage, or carrots, and meat such as pork or sausage); and salade liégeoise (potatoes, onions, bacon pieces, vinegar, and beans).

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combine flavors in unexpected ways. You are even able to dine in the ground-floor strong room, behind the original heavily armored door. Bd. de la Sauvenière 142. &04/232-18-18. www.bruitquicourt.be. Main courses 11€–21€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 8am–midnight; Fri–Sat 8am–2am; Sun 6pm–midnight.

Chez Rabah/Le Mechoui NORTH AFRICAN In a rambling, informal setting, with open wood grills in two rooms, you’ll dine among Arabic ornamentation that includes a gigantic brass teapot. The menu has just a handful of main options, such as couscous (the couscous royal is ace), mushrooms, and salad, with variations provided by grilled meats, including spicy sausage, and scampi. Honey-suffused desserts lie in wait to tempt your sweet tooth. Friendly waitstaff ensure a constant supply of scented fruit tea, and little-known but surprisingly good Moroccan wines, in addition to French ones, are available. If the restaurant is full, as it often is on weekends, similar North African eateries are close by. Chaussée des Prés 15 (1 block south of the Pont des Arches, Outremeuse). courses 9.50€–18€; fixed-price menus 24€. MC, V. Daily 6pm–3am.

&04/343-38-56. Main

Tchantchès & Nanesse WALLOON

LIÈGE, THE MEUSE RIVER & HAINAUT

Liège

Named after two local folklore characters, this Liège institution is one of the best addresses in town for Walloon specialties, such as grilled boudin sausage with potatoes, the warm salad liégeoise, the worldfamous (in Liège) meatballs with french fries in syrup, pigs’ kidneys flamed in peket (Belgian gin), chicken in beer, and hot black pudding with sour cherries. The beer glasses hanging above the bar counter are “mail boxes”—every regular has his or her own glass in which other habitués, and you if you so desire, can leave messages.

Rue Grande-Bêche 35 (at rue Surlet, Outremeuse). &0475/58-36-91. www.taverne-tchantches.be. Main courses 8€–16€; fixed-price menus 19€–35€. V. Mon–Sat 6pm–midnight.

Shopping On Sunday mornings, the Marché de la Batte , said to be the oldest street market in Europe—and surely one of the most colorful—is strung out for a mile along quai de la Batte on the north bank of the Meuse. You’ll find brass, clothes, flowers, foodstuffs, jewelry, birds, animals, books, radios, and . . . the list is endless. Shoppers from as far away as Holland and Germany join sightseers from overseas and what seems to be at least half the population of Liège. If you’re anywhere near the city on a Sunday, plan to check out this marvelous shopping hodgepodge, if only to browse and people-watch. Tip: You’ll find good shopping in the several small pedestrian-only streets off place St-Lambert in the Old Town.

Liège After Dark A short way from place Cathédrale, the pedestrian-only Carré district is the most animated part of town, a place for shopping during the day and stepping out after dark until the wee small hours.

THE PERFORMING ARTS The highly acclaimed Opéra Royal de Wallonie performs at the Théâtre Royal de Liège, rue des Dominicains 1 (&04/221-47-22; www.operaliege.be). The Théâtre Royal de LAC, near the Church of St. Jacques, presents concerts by the city’s Orchestre Philharmonique de Liège (& 04/220-00-00; www.opl.be), along with opera and ballet. For schedules and prices of current performances, contact 216

Infor-Spectacles, Féronstrée 92 (& 04/222-11-11; www.liege.be), Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm. Theaters staging puppet shows performed by the Théâtre des Marionettes (in dialect, but easy to follow) are at the Musée de l’Art Wallon (p.211), the Musée Tchantchès (p.212), and Théatre Al Botroûle, rue Hocheporte 3 (&04/223-0576). Liégeois wit is especially apparent in the puppets’ appearance; each puppet is sized according to its historical importance—for example, a huge Charles the Bold is attended by Lilliputian archers (though just how important Charles would have been without those archers is debatable!).

CAFES, TAVERNS & OTHER NIGHTSPOTS

The Prolific Touch of Georges Simenon never forgot his roots, and the atmosphere of Maigret’s Paris owes a clear debt to the mean streets of Liège’s Outremeuse district. The Liège tourist office has marked out a Simenon itinerary, which takes you on a tour of places associated with the author.

Liège

Liège will always be associated with one of the 20th century’s most prolific and popular authors. Georges Simenon (1903–89), creator of the famed Inspector Maigret, was born at rue Léopold 24. He grew up here and did his first writing for the local newspaper, the Gazette de Liège. Though he later left to live in Paris and Switzerland, he

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When the sun goes down (and even when it’s still up), the Liégeois head for their pick of the city’s hundreds of cafes and taverns to quaff Belgium’s famous beers and engage in their favorite entertainment—good conversation. If a quiet evening of the same appeals to you, you’ll have no problem finding a locale. One of the best is Tchantchès & Nanesse (see above) in the Outremeuse district. Café Lequet, quai sur Meuse 17 (& 04/222-21-34), a popular cafe/brasserie, is the place to encounter local characters speaking the Walloon dialect, in particular during the Sunday La Batte street market (see “Shopping,” above). If you’re at all musical, they’ll let you pick up an instrument and do your own thing; Thursday is jazz evening. Le Pot au Lait, rue Sœurs de Hasque 9 (&04/222-07-94; www.potaulait.be), a cafe close to the university and popular with students, is always pretty animated. If beer is your pleasure, you can’t go wrong at Le Vaudrée, rue St-Gilles 149 (&04/223-18-80; www.vaudree-concept.be), which has a choice of some 900 different ales from around the world. If you’re hungry, don’t miss its delicious pavé sur pierre (a tender beef filet roasted on a hot stone) and the variety of dishes served in beer sauces. In spite of having a beer cornucopia right on their doorstep, the city’s imbibers are just as likely to favor the stiff Belgian perfumed grain liquor, or gin, commonly called jenever, and in Wallonia, genièvre or pèkèt. The table-topper in this league is La Maison du Peket, rue de l’Epée 4 (&04/250-67-83; www.maisondupeket.be), a traditional old cafe (it’s known also by its Walloon name: Li Mohone di Pèkèt) off place St-Lambert, which has 250 varieties of genièvre on its drinks list. The local favorite is Peket des Houyeux. In the same building, behind the cafe, is the restaurant Amon Nanesse, which serves up Liège specialties.

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HUY 27km (17 miles) SW of Liège; 27km (17 miles) NE of Namur

The charming Meuse River town of Huy (pop. 21,000) was noted as a center for metalworking, in particular with tin, copper, and pewter, as far back as the 7th century, and was granted its town charter back in 1066. Its most famous native son, the 12th-century goldsmith Renier de Huy, designed the baptismal font in Liège’s Eglise St-Barthélemy (p. 212). Today, Huy’s stores are filled with pewter bowls, goblets, pitchers, and other items. The town has several notable examples of the 16th- and 17th-century architectural style known as Mosan Renaissance.

Essentials

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Huy

GETTING THERE Up to three trains depart every hour from Liège’s train station to Huy’s Gare du Nord, place Zenobe Gramme; the fastest trains take 27 minutes for the ride. Across the square is the town’s bus station. By car from Liège, take N90 southwest. VISITOR INFORMATION The Maison du Tourisme is at quai de Namur 1, 4500 Huy (& 085/21-29-15; fax 085/23-29-44; www.pays-de-huy.be). It’s open April to September Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 6pm and weekends and holidays from 10am to 6pm; and October to March Monday to Friday from 9am to 4pm and weekends and holidays from 10am to 4pm.

What to See & Do On Huy’s central Grand-Place, an 18th-century copper fountain known as Li Bassinia stands in front of the elegant neoclassical Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) from the same period—with any luck, you’ll be on hand when the Town Hall carillon rings out “Brave Liégeois,” as it does every hour. The 14th-century Gothic Collégiale (Collegiate Church) Notre-Dame , parvis Théoduin de Bavière (&085/21-29-15), on the Meuse’s east bank, is famed for its magnificent stained-glass windows, including Li Rondia, a beautiful rose window, and other windows in the choir. The church is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to noon and 2 to 5pm; admission is free. Its Trésor (Treasury) contains the Romanesque reliquaries of St. Domitien and St. Mengold, and many items in chiseled copper. The Treasury is open April to the start of June the first Saturday and Sunday in the month from 2 to 4:45pm, and July to the first weekend of October Saturday and Sunday from 2 to 4:45pm. Visiting the Treasury is 3€ for adults, 2€ for students and seniors, and free for children 11 and under. The Musée Communal (Town Museum), rue Vankeerberghen 20 (&085/2324-35), a few blocks northeast of the Grand-Place in a 17th-century former monastery of the Friars Minor, displays local metalwork and glass objects. Its finest single piece is the wood crucifix from 1240 known as the Beau Dieu de Huy (Good Lord of Huy). The museum is open mid-May to September Monday to Friday from 2 to 4pm and weekends from 2 to 6pm, and October to mid-May Monday to Friday from 2 to 4pm. Admission is 3€ for adults, 2€ for seniors and students, 1€ for children 6 to 12, and free for children 5 and under.

A HILLTOP CITADEL

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Huy is dominated by the Fort de Huy , chaussée Napoléon (&085/21-53-34), which affords marvelous views of the town, the river below, and the Roi Baudouin suspension bridge across the Meuse. The fort was constructed in 1818 on the site of

High Times A welcome break for children awaits at the Mont Mosan Leisure Park, plaine de la Sarte (&085/23-29-96; www. montmosan.be), reachable either by road or by the cable car to the Fort de Huy (see above). The park has sea

lions, rides, games, and a resident clown. It’s open April to September daily 10am to 8pm, and October on weekends from 10am to 8pm. Admission is 6€ per person.

A RIVER CRUISE Take a minicruise on the Meuse River from Huy onboard the Val Mosan (&085/21-29-15), which sails from quai de Namur in front of the tourist office. Departures May to August are Tuesday to Sunday (and Mon holidays) at 2, 3, and 4:30pm; and September Saturday and Sunday at 2, 3, and 4:30pm. Tickets are 5€ for adults, 3.50€ for children 6 to 12, and free for children 5 and under.

NAMUR 56km (35 miles) SE of Brussels; 27km (17 miles) SW of Huy; 54km (34 miles) SW of Liège

Namur

A handsome old riverside town (pop. 108,000) at the confluence of the Meuse and Sambre rivers, the bustling capital of Belgium’s French-speaking Wallonia region has fine museums and churches, a casino, and an abundance of cafes and restaurants. You’ll find many good places to eat and drink along the narrow, atmospheric alleyways of Le Corbeil, the old quarter of rows of 17th-century brick homes, along the Sambre waterfront. The town is dominated by its brooding hilltop Citadelle, evidence of the strategic importance attached to Namur in centuries past.

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earlier castles and forts that date back to the Gallo-Roman period at the very least. In World War II, the Nazis used it as a concentration camp; a museum on the site explains that history and also about the Belgian Resistance. You can reach the fort on foot or by téléphérique (cable car; &085/21-18-82) from the riverside at the corner of rue d’Amérique and rue d’Arsin. Cable-car fare is 3.50€ for a one-way ticket and 4.50€ round-trip for adults, 2€ one-way and 2.50€ round-trip for children 6 to 12, and free for children 5 and under. The fort is open July and August daily 11am to 7pm; in late March to June and September, hours are Monday to Friday from 9am to 12:30pm and 1 to 4:30pm, and weekends from 11am to 6pm. Admission is 4€ for adults, 3.50€ for children 6 to 13, and free for children 5 and under. Huy’s quaint narrow streets are great for walking. Take note of the stone bas-reliefs on tiny arcaded rue des Cloîtres, which runs alongside Notre-Dame church. For a stroll through the town’s history, start on Grand-Place and walk down rue des Rôtisseurs, rue des Augustins, and rue Vierset-Godin.

Essentials GETTING THERE There are two or three trains every hour to Namur from both Huy (23 min.) and Liège (46 min.), and two every hour from Brussels (1 hr.), to the Gare de Namur, square Léopold, an easy walk from the center of town. The bus station is out front (&081/25-35-55; www.infotec.be). By car from Liège, take N90 southwest via Huy; from Brussels, A4/E411 southeast. 219

The Maison du Tourisme is at square Léopold, 5000 Namur (&081/24-64-49; fax 081/26-23-60; www.mtpn.be), close to the rail station. The office is open daily 9:30am to 6pm. VISITOR INFORMATION

What to See & Do Cathédrale St-Aubain (St. Aubain’s Cathedral) The domed cathedral (1751) was designed by its Italian architect in the light, ethereal, Renaissance style of his native land, with columns, pilasters, cornices, and balustrades. It was constructed on the site of a 1047-vintage church of the same name that became the Namur cathedral in 1559; the old church’s belfry still survives in the existing structure. The Musée Diocésain et Trésor (Diocesan Museum and Treasury), place du Chapitre 1 (&081/44-42-85), just outside the cathedral, holds a small but impressive collection of ecclesiastical relics, gold plates, and sculptures. Place St-Aubain (off rue Lelièvre). &081/22-03-20. www.cana.be. Admission: church free; Diocesan Museum 2.50€ adults, 1€ children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Museum Easter–Oct Tues–Sat 10am–noon and 2:30–6pm, Sun 2:30–6pm; Nov to Easter Tues–Sun 2:30–4:30pm.

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Namur

Citadelle (Citadel) To reach the hilltop Citadel, drive or walk one of two scenic ways, route Merveilleuse and route des Panoramas, that wind up the steep cliffside. A fortification has stood atop this bluff since pre-Roman times, but the Dutch are responsible for the Citadel’s present shape. Today the structure is part of a wooded estate that includes a forest museum, children’s playgrounds, restaurants, cafes, and craft stores. Visitors are shown a film on the Citadel’s history and given a tour of the fortifications. Explore the intriguing underground caverns by torchlight on a 45-minute tour with a guide. A small excursion “train” runs through the extensive grounds on a 30-minute round-trip. Rte. Merveilleuse. & 081/65-45-00. www.citadelle.namur.be. Admission: Citadel free; museums, guided visits, and excursion “train” 9€ adults; 6€ seniors, students, and children 4–17; free for children 3 and under. Tues–Sun 11am–6pm.

The 15th-century Renaissance-style building on the banks of the Sambre that houses this museum was Namur’s former meat market. It displays important remains of the life and times of the Meuse Valley, from prehistoric ages through the Celtic, Roman, and Frank periods into the Middle Ages. The collections include Roman glassware, pottery, jewelry, and coins, and a relief map of the city dating from 1750.

Musée Archéologique (Archaeological Museum)

Rue du Pont 21 (at rue des Brasseurs). &081/23-16-31. Admission 3€ adults, 1€ children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun 10:40am–5pm. Closed Dec 25–Jan 2.

Namur sometimes seems unsure of what to make of one of its best-known sons, 19th-century painter and engraver of the bizarre and the erotic, Félicien Rops. His museum is tucked away on a narrow side street, near the artist’s birthplace in the old quarter of town—but inside, exposure is the name of the game. The perfection of Rops’s soft-ground etchings and drypoint work is internationally recognized, and he was indisputably one of the most outstanding engravers of the late 19th century. Some important examples of his work on display are Pornokratès (1879), Mors Syphilitica (1866), and The Beach at Heist (1886).

Musée Félicien Rops (Félicien Rops Museum)

Rue Fumal 12 (off rue des Brasseurs). & 081/77-67-55. www.museerops.be. Admission 3€ adults; 1.50€ seniors, students, and children 12–18; free for children 11 and under. July–Aug daily 10am–6pm; Sept–June Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 24–25 and 31.

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Trésor du Prieuré d’Oignies (Treasury of the Oignies Priory) The Treasury of the Couvent des Sœurs de Notre-Dame (Convent of the Sisters of Our Lady), in the center of town, holds work by 13th-century master goldsmith Hugo d’Oignies. His sumptuous, jewel-studded crosses, chalices, reliquaries, and other creations are decorated with forest motifs and hunting scenes. Rue Julie Billiart 17 (1 block east of place d’Armes). &081/25-43-00. Admission 2€ adults, 1€ children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sat 10am–noon and 2–5pm; Sun 2–5pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 24–25 and 31.

SIGHTSEEING TOURS In May to September, the tourist office organizes a range of guided tours of the old town, the Citadel, and the riverside. These start out from the Maison du Tourisme (see “Visitor Information,” above). A variety of scenic cruises on the Meuse and Sambre rivers is available from Namur, including trips to Dinant and Wépion, and a “Namur by Night” cruise. All of them depart from the junction of the Meuse and Sambre rivers, at boulevard Baron Louis Huart. The cruise line, Compagnie des Bateaux (&082/22-23-15; www. bateaux-meuse.be), is based in nearby Dinant (see below). Cruises begin at 6€ for adults, 5€ for children 6 to 12, and free for children 5 and under.

MEUSE VALLEY châteaux

Namur

silver and gold pieces, jewels, porcelain and glass, antique furniture, and family heirlooms. W Château de Modave, rue du Parc 4, Modave (& 085/41-13-69; www.modave-castle.be), 12km (71⁄2 miles) south of Huy, off N641. Once the property of Liège prince-bishops and then cardinals of the Catholic church, this fine example of the Louis Quatorze French style now belongs to the Vivaqua watersupply corporation. W Château de Vêves, rue du Furfooz 2, Celles-Houyet (& 08266-63-95; www.chateau-de-veves. be), 8km (5 miles) east of the Meuse, off N94. An 18th-century re-imagining of a medieval castle, Vêves looks almost more romantic than the real thing. W Château du Val St-Lambert (see “What to See & Do” under “Liège,” earlier in this chapter).

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The banks of the Meuse River are liberally sprinkled with grand historic châteaux, often with moats and towers. Among the finest that you can visit are: W Château d’Annevoie (see “Jardins d’Annevoie,” below). W Château de Freÿr , Freÿr 12, Hastière/Waulsort (& 082/2222-00; www.freyr.be), on the left bank of the Meuse, along N96 between Hastière-Lavaux and Dinant. The 17th-century country seat of the dukes of BeaufortSpontin has a scenic riverside location and magnificent ornamental gardens. W Château de Jehay , rue du Parc 1, Jehay-Bodegnée/Amay (& 085/82-44-00; www.chateaujehay.be), 18km (11 miles) southwest of Liège, off N614. Its lawns and gardens are beautified with sculptures and fountains. Inside, rooms are filled with paintings, tapestries, lace,

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Strawberry Fields A few kilometers beyond Namur lies Wépion, a sleepy riverside village at the heart of Belgium’s strawberrygrowing district, and the country’s selfappointed “Strawberry Capital.” Wépion’s Musée de la Fraise (Strawberry Museum), chaussée de Dinant 1037 (&081/46-20-07; www.musee delafraise.be), is dedicated to the fruit.

The museum is open mid-April to midSeptember Tuesday to Saturday from 2 to 6pm, and Sunday from 10am to 6pm. Admission is 3€ for adults; 2€ for seniors, students 13–18, and visitors with disabilities; 1€ for children 6 to 12; and free for children 5 and under. In summer, you can buy strawberries from kiosks in and around Wépion.

Namur After Dark Gamble the night away over the roulette and blackjack tables, or at the slot machines, at the Casino de Namur, av. Baron de Moreau 1 (&081/22-30-21; www.casino denamur.be), below the Citadelle, on the west bank of the Meuse. Jackets and ties are required for men. The casino is open daily 2pm to dawn.

Nearby Places of Interest

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Namur

Abbaie de Maredsous (Maredsous Abbey) The twin towers of the neoGothic Benedictine abbey stand out clearly above the rugged, forested countryside outside the village of Denée, 21km (13 miles) southwest of Namur. It is famed for its own Maredsous beer, cheese, and bread, all of which can be consumed by visitors in a giant cafe on the abbey’s grounds—and all of which are consumed in vast quantities at busy times. The abbey’s third abbot, Dom Columba Marmion of Dublin, appointed in 1909, was beatified by Pope John Paul II in 2000. Rue de Mardesous 11, near Denée. &082/69-82-11. www.maredsous.be. Free admission. Daily 9am– 6pm. From Annevoie, take N932 for 4.8km (3 miles), then turn left on N971.

Jardins d’Annevoie (Annevoie Gardens) The ornamental gardens and fountains here, and the 18th-century Château d’Annevoie they surround, together make a splendid display that should top every regional sightseeing list. Annevoie, 28km (17 miles) south of Namur, is sometimes dubbed the “Belgian Versailles,” and though these gardens indeed share similarities with their French cousins—and are also reminiscent of Italian and English gardens—they possess unique qualities. The fountains, waterfalls, lagoons, and canals are all engineered without the use of any artificial power. No throbbing pump or other machinery intrudes on their tranquillity and beauty. The grounds were laid out in the mid-1700s by a member of the de Montpellier family and have been tended and added to by successive generations. The present owner, Jean de Montpellier, lives here with his family. Inside the château are fine architectural details in the woodwork, stuccos, fireplaces, and family chapel. In addition to a gift store, there’s a full-service restaurant and a rustic cafe. Rue des Jardins 37A, Annevoie. &082/67-97-97. www.annevoie.be. Admission 7.80€ adults, 5.20€ students and children 3–12, 4€ visitors with disabilities, free for children 2 and under. Gardens Apr–June and Sept to early Nov daily 9:30am–5:30pm; July–Aug daily 9:30am–6:30pm.

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Where to Stay Le Beau Vallon This elegant chambre d’hôtes (guest house) in a restored stone château-ferme (manor-farm), part of which dates from the 17th century and part from 1870, lies in a narrow, wooded valley outside Wépion, the “village of strawberries.” This is one of the traditional properties that comes under the umbrella of the Gîtes de Wallonie organization (p. 57). Its hospitable proprietors, Marie-Jeanne and Denis de Ribaucourt, ensure that guests feel at home, perhaps by serving guests wine or local beer at a garden table beside the pool. Rooms are furnished in a comfortable, rustic style, and an 18-hole golf course is across the road. Chemin du Beau Vallon 38 (off N92 between Wépion and Profondeville), 5100 Wépion. &/fax 081/4115-91. www.gitesdewallonie.be. 5 units. 50€–60€ double. Amenities: Nearby golf course. In room: No phone.

Despite a look that seems more suited to business travel (a character that extends to the in-house restaurant), this is a decent, up-to-date vacation lodging in a green and scenic spot along Meuse, next to a riverside walking path. There’s plenty for children to do: Besides the outdoor play area, there are games, computer games, and sports like tennis and table tennis. The airy guest rooms are furnished in a functional style suited to a midlevel chain hotel, with writing desks and fine bathrooms. Ask for a room at the back, facing the river.

Leonardo Hotel Namur

This luxuriously appointed hotel occupies a character-rich cluster of 11 restored 17th-century buildings, close to the confluence of the rivers Meuse and Sambre. Buildings in this area were falling down from neglect a few years ago, but an imaginative restoration program has recreated an old-world atmosphere. Guest rooms are individually decorated with an effective mix of antiques and modern fittings, and some have sloping walls and exposed timber beams. The most expensive rooms have a sauna or whirlpool bathtub. The French restaurant, L’Espièglerie, has a good local reputation.

Les Tanneurs

Rue des Tanneries 13B, 5000 Namur. & 081/24-00-24. Fax 081/24-00-25. www.tanneurs.com. 32 units. 80€–215€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants. Inroom: TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (6€/day).

Where to Dine

Namur

Chinda Wok THAI For a change of pace from the traditional Belgian and chic French restaurants that towns along the Meuse River are pretty much filled with, try this fine Thai restaurant in the heart of town. Behind the town house facade is an elegant interior with chandeliers hanging from stucco ceilings. To this have been added images of the Buddha and minimalist Thai decor, all suffused with delicate scents. In summer tables are set up in the restful garden alongside a fish pond. Be sure to take seriously the red chili-pepper icons that accompany some dishes on the menu.

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Chaussée de Dinant 1149 (8km/5 miles from central Namur), 5100 Wépion-Namur. &081/46-08-11. Fax 081/46-19-90. www.leonardo-hotels.com. 110 units. 90€–175€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Take E411 Brussels–Luxembourg to exit 14. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bikes; nearby golf course; play area; heated indoor and outdoor pools; room service. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (7.50€/60 min.).

Rue Godefroid 15 (on a street leading south from the train station). &081/22-92-90. www.chindawok.be. Main courses 10€–19€; fixed-price menus 20€–39€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Tues and Thurs–Fri noon–2:30pm and 6–10:30pm; Sat–Sun 6–10:30pm.

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FRENCH/CONTINENTAL Although it’s housed in a converted 18th-century presbytery, this restaurant at the heart of the Old Town has a cool, minimalist character exemplified by vaguely New Age abstract paintings on the walls. This coolness doesn’t extend to the cuisine, to which proprietor/chef Pascal Pirlot brings a passion that’s mirrored in the decor’s red tones. Prices are reasonable considering the exceptional food and service; the basic three-course menu is an especially good deal. The seafood items include a sole Meunière of heavenly simplicity. There’s a decent wine selection and good advice to go with it. The interior’s 20 or so places, and a sidewalk terrace in summer, tend to fill up fast.

La Petite Fugue

Place Chanoine Descamps 5 (off rue du Président). & 081/23-13-20. www.lapetitefugue.be. Main courses 20€–28€; fixed-price menus 29€–55€. MC, V. Daily noon–2pm and 6:30–10pm.

L’Ermitage FRENCH There’s no more refined place to locally dine than at this magnificent château restaurant. Its location, up in the Citadel Park overlooking the town, is already an attraction even before you step into the manorial dining room, among light-filled, exposed-brick arches, and experience purringly smooth service and attention to detail. In summer you can dine in the château garden. The menu is rather short, but what’s on it invariably shines. There’s likely to be foie gras as one of the starters and something sophisticated like pintade (guineafowl) as one of the main courses, but there will also be a plainer deal, maybe sole à l’Ostendaise.

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Dinant

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Av. de l’Ermitage 1 (in the Château de Namur Hotel, at the Citadelle). &081/72-99-00. www.chateau denamur.com. Main courses 26€–30€; fixed-price lunch 22€–30€; menu Gourmet 40€–50€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–2pm and 7–9pm; Sun (buffet brunch only) noon–3pm.

DINANT 23km (14 miles) S of Namur

A bustling riverside resort town, Dinant (pop. 13,000) has suffered from history’s turmoil. In 1466, in reprisal for a rebellion, Duke of Burgundy Charles the Bold razed the town and drowned 800 citizens, tied up in pairs and thrown from the Citadel into the Meuse. In a chilling echo, the World War I German army executed 700 citizens when its troops were fired on in the town. A reminder of Dinant’s military past is never far from view, for the Citadel (dating from 1530) that crowns a bluff 100m (328 ft.) high dominates the skyline. Despite all the bloodshed, the town developed such skill in working dinanderie (hammered copper and brass) that its engravings were widely sought after as early as the 13th century. Charles the Bold’s ruthlessness put a stop to such artistry, but in recent years the skill has come back to life, and you’ll find fine examples of engravings in town stores.

Essentials There are one or two trains every hour to Dinant from Namur; the train ride takes just under a half-hour. Namur’s rail and bus stations are both on rue de la Station on the west bank of the Meuse. By car from Namur, take N92 south. VISITOR INFORMATION The Maison du Tourisme is at av. Cadoux 8, 5500 Dinant (&082/22-08-70; fax 082/22-77-88; www.dinant-tourisme.com), alongside the Meuse on the river’s west bank. The office is open July to August daily 8:30am to 7pm; September to October and April to June daily 8:30am to 6pm; and November GETTING THERE

to March Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 6pm, Saturday from 9:30am to 4pm, and Sunday from 10:30am to 2pm.

What to See & Do An abbey that once combined its spiritual calling with brewing beer, Leffe Abbey, founded in 1152, stands at the northern edge of town on the Meuse’s right (east) bank. Sadly, the abbey’s Norbertin monks no longer personally brew their own traditional beer—that’s been handed off to the InBev corporation and takes place at a brewery in Leuven. Still, you can taste it in many bars in Dinant and around the country, and the huge redbrick abbey is worth visiting, both for its long spiritual history and its tranquillity.

Abbaye Notre-Dame de Leffe

Place de l’Abbaye 1. &082/22-23-77. www.abbaye-de-leffe.be. Free admission. Guided tours June– Aug 3pm.

The 16th-century Citadel, a fortress perched spectacularly on a cliff high above the town and river, can be reached by car or téléphérique (cable car). Alternatively, if you’re feeling energetic or can’t turn down the challenge, climb the 408 steep steps leading to the bluff top and spectacular views of the town and river. The Musée d’Armes (Weapons Museum) inside has a cannon and other firearms, and there’s an audiovisual historical presentation in three languages (including English). But it’s the view that takes your breath away. You might want to spend an hour or two wandering around up here. Citadelle (Citadel)

Although this riverside church looks old, it was reconstructed twice during the past century, after being destroyed in both World War I and II. The original church gained collegiate status in 934. Its Romanesque successor bit the dust in 1228 when part of the neighboring cliff collapsed on top of it, and it was reconstructed in the Mosan Gothic style.

Collégiale Notre-Dame (Collegiate Church of Our Lady)

sax APPEAL the orchestra despite the support of composers Berlioz, Saint-Saens, and Massenet. Sax’s saxophone class at the Paris Conservatory closed in the 1870s. Sax himself went bankrupt, and in 1894 he died a saddened man. Yet the inventor, looking down from the great sax jam in the sky, was vindicated from the 1920s and 1930s onward, as his brainchild became ever more popular in jazz, big band, and military music.

Dinant

Most people would name New Orleans as the spiritual home of jazz. But Dinant can claim a part of that heritage. Adolphe Sax, inventor of the saxophone, was born here in 1814. Sax was a prolific instrument maker and designer. In 1838, he developed the bass clarinet, based on some of the same principles he later used for the sax. The first saxophone was made in 1841 or 1842, and Sax patented his new instrument in 1846. The sax was controversial from the start, never gaining wide acceptance in

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Place Reine Astrid 3–5 (a block inland from Pont Charles de Gaulle). &082/22-36-70. www.citadellede dinant.be. Admission (includes the cable-car fare) 7€ adults, 5.40€ children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm; Nov–Dec and Feb–Mar Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm; Jan Sat–Sun 10am–5pm.

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The big bulbous spire from 1697 is a majestic sight beneath the looming presence of the Citadel. Points of interest inside are the baptismal font from 1472, the 1731 lectern made from local dinanderie, and the fine stained-glass window that depicts scenes from the Bible. A brief visit here should suffice. Place Reine Astrid. &082/22-22-07. Free admission. Daily 10am–5pm.

SIGHTSEEING TOURS Dinant is the best place on the Meuse for cruising along the scenic reaches upstream and downstream. River cruises are offered by Compagnie des Bateaux (&082/2223-15; www.bateaux-meuse.be). The cruises run from Easter to October and last 45 minutes to 31⁄2 hours. Boats depart from an east-bank dock, on avenue Winston Churchill, just south of the road bridge in the center of town. Cruises begin at 6€ for adults, 5€ for children 6 to 12, and free for children 5 and under.

Where to Stay

Mons

Rue Fétis 112, 5500 Dinant. &082/61-16-00. Fax 082/61-45-37. www.aubergedebouvignes.be. 6 units. 69€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (free). The hotel is on the Namur road (N96), 3km (2 miles) north of central Dinant, on the west bank of the Meuse.

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Auberge de Bouvignes This country-style inn occupies a building dating from 1830 with thick stone walls. It started out as a riverside hostel and stables for the relays of men and horses that towed barges along the river. For all their rustic oak beams and parquet floors, the six sparely but tastefully furnished guest rooms have big new beds, and they’re decorated in blue or pink and brightened with flowers and photogravures of riverside scenes. Those at the front have fine views of the Meuse. The fine French-Belgian main restaurant is open only from Friday to Sunday; at other times, there’s a separate restaurant for light meals.

Where to Dine Le Trois BELGIAN/FRENCH A local husband-and-wife team shook up this eatery close to the train station by taking it through a style change from old-fashioned to chic, decking it out in passionate red colors and complementary brown furnishings. Menu highlights include truite au bleu (oven-baked trout) and a terrific country-style pâté de canard (duck pâté). If you’re up for it, try the grilled kidneys with mustard sauce, a local specialty. Rue de la Station 3 (between Dinant train station and Pont Charles de Gaulle). &082/22-31-35. www. letrois.be. Main courses 17€–24€; fixed-price menu 30€. MC, V. Tues noon–2pm; Thurs–Mon noon–2pm and 6:30–9pm.

MONS 51km (32 miles) SW of Brussels; 66km (41 miles) W of Namur; 43km (27 miles) SE of Tournai

Hainaut’s provincial capital (pop. 91,000) started out as a fortified camp constructed by Julius Caesar’s Roman legions. Today, it’s home to SHAPE (Supreme Headquarters Allied Powers Europe). Between those military bookends, it saw a rich and eventful history. The Roman camp, set in a landscape of rolling hills (mons means “mount” in Latin), became a town when St. Waltrude, daughter of a local nobleman, founded a convent here in the 600s. Mons was fortified in the 12th century by Count Baldwin IV of Flanders, and again by the Dutch in the early 1800s. 226

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ATTRACTIONS BAM/Beaux-Arts Mons 2 Beffroi 7 Chapel St-Calixte/Musée du Château des Comtes 8 Collégiale Ste-Waudru 9 Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) 3 Musée des Arts Décoratifs François Duesberg 10

Brussels Mons

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ACCOMMODATIONS Infotel 5 Mercure Mons 1 DINING Devos 6 No Maison 4

Mons

Its present character reflects its more recent history as a center of industrialization and coal mining. The Old Town, on and around the central Grand-Place, contains civic and religious buildings dating from the 11th century onward. They form a remarkably harmonious whole that gives Mons one of the most handsome townscapes in Belgium.

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Information

Essentials Mons is an easy day trip from Brussels, with trains departing to Mons twice hourly; the ride takes about 50 minutes. Mons station is on place Léopold, a short walk west from the center of town. To get to Mons by car from Brussels, take E19.

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The Maison du Tourisme du Pays du Mons is at Grand-Place 22, 7000 Mons (& 065/33-55-80; fax 065/35-63-36; www.mons region.be). The office is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 6pm (5:30pm in winter) and Sunday from 1 to 6pm (5:30pm in winter). GETTING AROUND Walking is the best way to get around in the Old Town, but you don’t even have to walk. Free Mons Intra Muros “midibuses” run on three routes—circuit A, circuit B, and circuit C—between the station and the Grand-Place every 6 minutes daily from 7am to 9pm. SPECIAL EVENTS Every year on Trinity Sunday—the first Sunday after Pentecost—Mons erupts in a burst of color, mock drama, and revelry to celebrate the Ducasse de Mons (or Doudou) . This festival begins with a religious procession in which the Car d’Or (Golden Coach) from 1780 is drawn through the streets by a team of white horses, followed by richly dressed girls, and clerics bearing a gilded brass reliquary that holds the skull of St. Waltrude. There follows a mock battle, the Lumeçon, between St. George and the dragon. An evening performance by 2,000 musicians, singers, and actors brings the day to a close. VISITOR INFORMATION

What to See & Do THE BELFRY DISTRICT

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Mons

The first thing you’ll likely notice about Mons is the Beffroi (Belfry), a UNESCO World Heritage Site, at the highest point in town. As Victor Hugo remarked, this looks somewhat like “an enormous coffee pot, flanked below belly-level by four medium-size teapots.” In Mons, the tower is referred to as le château—it sits near the site of an old castle of the counts of Hainaut, and even though the castle was demolished in 1866, local people have never broken the habit of using the old designation. A short distance across square du Château from the Belfry is the Chapelle StCalixte, the oldest structure in town, dating from 1051. The chapel holds the Musée du Château des Comtes (Museum of the Castle of the Counts; &065/33-55-80), which contains relics and archaeological finds. It’s open May to mid-September Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 8pm, and mid-September to April Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 6pm. Admission is 2.50€ for adults; 1.25€ for seniors, visitors with disabilities, and children 12 to 18; and free for children 11 and under. Collégiale Ste-Waudru (Collegiate Church of St. Waltrude) Dating from 1450, this remarkable church in the Brabant Gothic style honors the daughter of the count of Hainaut whose 7th-century convent marked the beginning of Mons as a town. The church stands below and a little to the west of the Belfry. Inside its vast vaulted space are 16th-century sculptures and wall carvings by Mons artist Jacques Du Brœucq (1505–84). Around the choir, 16th-century stained-glass windows depict biblical scenes. At the entrance of the church, the Car d’Or (Golden Coach) waits for its annual spring outing (see “Special Events” under “Essentials,” above). The church Trésor (Treasury) contains richly ornamented religious objects in gold— chalices, ciboriums, monstrances, and reliquaries—many of them dedicated in honor of St. Waltrude, along with sculptures, paintings, vestments, missals, and more. Place du Chapitre. & 065/33-55-80 (church) or 065/87-57-75 (treasury). www.waudru.be. Free admission. Church Mon–Sat 9am–6:30pm; Sun 7am–6:30pm. Treasury Mar–Nov Tues–Fri 1:30–6pm; Sat–Sun 1:30–5pm.

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THE GRAND-PLACE Almost everything you’ll want to see here is on, or no more than a short walk from, the Grand-Place, which is lined by fine historic buildings and surrounded by steep, cobbled streets. If you’re here when the weather is good, be sure to fit in some time at a sidewalk cafe on the Grand-Place. The square’s centerpiece is the 15th-century Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall). Access is by a free guided tour from the tourist office, July to August daily at 2:30pm (at other times by arrangement). As you go through its main entrance, look to the left and stop to rub the head of “the monkey of the Grand-Garde,” an iron monkey that’s been granting good luck since the 15th century. Needless to say, by this time he has a very shiny pate. Inside the Town Hall are antique tapestries and paintings. The Town Hall courtyard, occupied by the fountains, trees, flowers, and plants of the Jardin du Mayeur (Mayor’s Garden), is a good place to relax.

Other Sights BAM The Beaux-Arts Mons—Museum of Fine Arts—occupies a contemporary building on a side street off the Grand-Place. Its collections emphasize 19th- and 20th-century paintings and sculpture from Mons and Hainaut, and it mounts visiting exhibits that are in general more varied and interesting. Rue Neuve 8 (beside the Jardin du Mayeur). &065/40-53-30. www.bam.mons.be. Admission varies depending on the visiting exhibit. Tues–Sat noon–6pm; Sun 11am–6pm.

Musée des Arts Décoratifs (Museum of Decorative Arts) François Duesberg

Sq. Franklin Roosevelt 12 (entrance rue de la Houssière 2). &065/84-16-56. Admission 4€ adults, free for children 17 and under. Tues–Sun 1:30–6pm.

Where to Stay

Mons

Centrally located in town and set in a handsome building dating from the 18th century, this hotel has pretty guest rooms that have thoughtful touches—wood furnishings offset by sky-blue curtains and salmon-pink walls, for example. If Fighting Talk you want a decent amount of space, you’ll need to take one of the rooms of Mons has an important place in British “standing,” which are slightly more military history, as the site of a stiff expensive than the ordinary ones. The World War I battle on August 23 and rooms look onto a quiet courtyard, 24, 1914. The outnumbered British giving you the impression of being in Expeditionary Force absorbed hard your own mansion. The staff will blows from the Kaiser’s invading army, arrange a picnic basket for you if you holding up the Germans on their ask. There’s no restaurant, but that’s advance to Paris. not a problem since there are plenty within a short walk.

Infotel

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Housed in the 19th-century former National Bank of Belgium building, this museum has a fine collection of objects dating from 1775 to 1825, including exotic clocks, gilded bronzes, porcelain, crockery, gold, and silverwork. In addition, it displays 3,000 pieces of fine porcelain dating from the 17th to the 19th centuries.

Rue d’Havré 32 (off the Grand-Place), 7000 Mons. &065/40-18-30. Fax 065/35-62-24. www.hotel infotel.be. 25 units. 60€–124€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

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Lodging here can make sense if you’re traveling by car. The hotel is outside of Mons, in quiet, rural surroundings, and not well served by public transportation. Guest rooms, while affording tranquil views of woodlands and fields, don’t have much in the way of local character, and their brown color palette might seem a shade downbeat. They are, however, spacious and have large beds and bathrooms. The French restaurant Lumeçon takes more advantage of the surroundings, with serene forest views through its large picture windows.

Mercure Mons

Rue des Fusillés 12 (off N56), 7020 Mons. &065/72-36-85. Fax 065/72-41-44. www.mercure.com. 53 units. 110€–190€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; 2 lounges; babysitting; nearby golf courses; unheated outdoor pool. Inroom: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Dine Devos MODERN FRENCH Settle back and savor the spectacle of a historic courtyard setting that traces its lineage back to 1451 as an inn, and 1879 as a restaurant. The restored decor of the main restaurant and multiple private dining rooms on several floors is that of a distinguished town house, replete with rare woods, plush-carpeting, and paintings. Yet neither the service nor the food are stuffy. The menu is relatively light on options but strong on quality, reflecting a preference to do a few things simply and well rather than to offer long lists and feature-bloat. Still, there will be three or four each of seafood and meat dishes—vegetarians, though, are out of luck.

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Mons

Rue de la Coupe 7 (off Grand-Place). &065/35-13-35. www.restaurantdevos.be. Main courses 20€– 26€; fixed-price lunch 28€, dinner 45€–65€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2pm; Mon–Tues and Thurs–Sat 7–9:30pm.

No Maison BELGIAN

Thinking up a less promising name for a restaurant would be a tough proposition, but “no” is likely to become “yes” once you’ve tried it. A simple enough place, on three floors of an old patrician house, with a fine view over the Grand-Place from window tables, it focuses on Belgian and Mons specialties, such as escavêche Montoise (eel). The restaurant’s dark-wood paneling is offset by colorful paintings of local festivals.

Grand-Place 21. &065/31-11-11. Main courses 9€–17€; plat du jour 9€; menu Montoise (daily special menu) 23€. MC, V. Daily 10am–2am.

Nearby Places of Interest Château de Beloeil (Beloeil Castle) The magnificent ancestral home of the Prince de Ligne has been called, with some justification, the “Versailles of Belgium.” The palace sits amid French-style gardens in its own park, on the shores of an ornamental lake. For more than a thousand years, the de Ligne family has lived in the grand style that pervades these vast rooms, filled with priceless antiques, paintings by the Masters, historical mementos (among them a lock of Queen Marie Antoinette’s hair), and more than 20,000 books, many of them rare editions. Rue du Château 11, Beloeil (22km/14 miles northwest of Mons). & 069/68-94-26. www.chateaude beloeil.com. Admission: château and park 8€ adults, 6€ seniors, 5.50€ children 6–18, 2.50€ visitors with disabilities, free for children 5 and under; park only 4€ adults, 3€ seniors and children 6–18, 2.50€ visitors with disabilities, free for children 5 and under. Apr–June and Sept Sat–Sun and holidays 1–6pm; July–Aug daily 1–6pm.

Grand-Hornu This monument of industrial archaeology is a memorial to an idealistic—or paternalistic—employer. Mine-owner Henri de Gorge (1774–1832) constructed the complex between 1810 and 1830 in neoclassical style and attached 230

to it some 450 well-designed and well-equipped houses for his workers. Fallen into disuse and dereliction, Grand-Hornu was restored in the 1970s. It’s a fascinating, unlikely mixture of antiquarian sensibility and gritty industrial reality that showcases the Victorian entrepreneurial tradition at its best. A part of the site has been given over to the Musée des Arts Contemporains of Belgium’s Francophone community and its exhibits of contemporary art. Rue Ste-Louise 82, Hornu (13km/8 miles southwest of Mons). &065/65-21-21. www.grand-hornu.be. Admission 6€ adults, 4€ seniors, 2€ children 6–18, free for children 5 and under, free for all visitors 1st Wed in month. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 25.

Maison Van Gogh (Van Gogh House) During his days as a none-too-successful church missionary, the Dutch artist Vincent van Gogh lived in 1879 and 1880 in this miner’s house, the Maison du Marais, in the Borinage coal-mining district. He preached the gospel to the mining families, while painting and drawing them and the bleak countryside. The house has been restored as a monument, with documents, an audiovisual presentation, and an original van Gogh sketch, The Diggers (1880). Rue du Pavillon 3, Cuesmes (3km/2 miles south of Mons). & 065/35-56-11. Admission 5€ adults, 2.50€ children 12–17, free for children 12 and under. Tues–Sat 10:30am–12:30pm and 1:30–6pm; Sun 10:30am–noon and 2–6pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 25.

THE HAINAUT LAKES

10 LIÈGE, THE MEUSE RIVER & HAINAUT Tournai

Among several lakes in Hainaut are the manmade lakes of the Barrages de l’Eau d’Heure , at Boussu-lez-Walcourt in the Botte de Hainaut (Hainaut’s Boot) district, south of Charleroi (off N798). The Plate Taille is Belgium’s largest lake, covering 350 hectares (865 acres), and the entire area has been developed as a watersports center, with designated zones for windsurfing, jet-skiing, scuba diving, sailing, and water-skiing. For information on the area’s ecology, go to the visitor center, the Centre d’Accueil (& 071/50-92-92; www.lacsdeleaudheure.be), next to the Plate Taille Dam. It’s open daily from 10am to 6pm (until 7pm July–Aug). Admission is free. Farther south, near Chimay, are the Etangs de Virelles (Virelles Lakes), a protected nature reserve covering 100 hectares (247 acres) of natural lakes, wetlands, and forest. There are guided walking tours, and observation points for watching bird life. Aquascope, rue du Lac 42, Virelles-lez-Chimay (&060/21-13-63; www. aquascope.be), the lakes’ nature park, has an exhibit and audiovisual presentation at its visitor center. It’s open mid-March to June and September to mid-November Tuesday to Sunday (and Mon during school vacations) from 10am to 5pm; July to August, daily hours are from 10am to 7pm; and mid-November to mid-March, it’s open weekends, holidays, and school vacations from 10am to 4pm (closed Jan 1 and Dec 24–25 and 31). Admission is 6€ for adults, 4€ for visitors with disabilities, 3.50€ for children 6 to 12, and free for children 5 and under; various activities in the reserve have additional charges.

TOURNAI 72km (45 miles) SW of Brussels; 43km (27 miles) NW of Mons

Historic, handsome Tournai (pop. 68,000), on the Escaut (Scheldt) River, is Belgium’s second-oldest town (after Tongeren). During medieval and Renaissance times, it had a position of prominence as a European ecclesiastical center. Its importance in earlier centuries was forgotten until 1653, when a workman discovered the tomb of 231

Childeric, king of the Franks, whose son, Clovis, founded the Merovingian dynasty that ruled for nearly 3 centuries. This led to the discovery that Tournai’s predecessor, a Roman settlement known as Tornacum, was the first capital of the Frankish empire. The tomb yielded breathtaking royal treasures in gold. These were removed first to Vienna and then to Paris, where in 1831 most of the gold objects were stolen and melted down. Tournai still has magnificent works of art and architecture, the legacy of its painters, sculptors, goldsmiths, tapestry weavers, and porcelain craftsmen.

Essentials

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Tournai

GETTING THERE Two trains depart Brussels every hour for Tournai—a 1-hour ride by the fastest trains. Tournai’s station is on the northern edge of town, on boulevard des Déportés. By car from Brussels, Tournai is less than an hour’s drive on A8/E429. VISITOR INFORMATION The Office du Tourisme is at Vieux Marché aux Poteries 14, 7500 Tournai (&069/22-20-45; fax 069/21-62-21; www.tournai.be), facing the Belfry, in the center of town. The office is open Easter to mid-October Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 6pm, Saturday from 9:30am to noon and 2 to 5pm, and Sunday and holidays from 10am to noon and 2:30 to 6pm; hours from midOctober to Easter are Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 5:30pm, Saturday from 10am to noon and 2 to 5pm, and Sunday and holidays from 2:30 to 6pm (closed Jan 1–2; Nov 1–2, 11, and 15; and Dec 24–26 and 31). SPECIAL EVENTS On the days of the Quatre Cortèges (Four Parades), during the second weekend in June, episodes from Tournai’s history are reenacted in a series of folklore processions and events. With the annual Grande Procession through the city on the second Sunday in September, the town celebrates amid splendid pageantry the intervention of Our Lady during a time of plague.

What to See & Do To get an idea of how Tournai looked in medieval times, take a stroll along rue Barre St-Brice on the north side of the Scheldt. Although you can’t go inside, you can at least peruse the exteriors of some of the oldest private houses still in existence in Europe; nos. 10 and 12 date from 1175. Closer to the center of town, 13th-century Gothic houses line rue des Jésuites. Pont des Trous (Bridge of Holes) on quai Sakharov is an appropriate name for this 13th-century bridge. It has taken its lumps from any number of battles and sieges since then—most recently in 1944, when it was blown up. The bridge and its two anchoring towers once formed part of the city’s defensive walls. Another military work, the 24m-high (79-ft.) Tour Henry VIII, on rue du Rempart, named for the English king of six-wives fame, dates from a period of English occupation from 1512 to 1518. Beffroi (Belfry) A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Belfry dates from the late 1100s, making it Belgium’s oldest. If you’re up for it, climb the 265 steps to the top of this 72m (236-ft.) tower; you’ll be rewarded with glorious views of the town and surrounding countryside. The 44-bell carillon plays Saturday-morning concerts. Vieux Marché aux Poteries. &069/22-20-45. Admission 2€ adults, 1€ children 7–12, free for children 6 and under. Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 10am–5:30pm; Nov–Mar Tues–Sat 10am–noon and 2–5pm, Sun 2–5pm.

Cathédrale Notre-Dame (Cathedral of Our Lady) This magnificent five-towered cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of Europe’s most striking examples of Romanesque architecture. Completed in the late 1100s, it’s not 232

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ATTRACTIONS Beffroi 9 Cathédrale Notre-Dame 8 Musée d’Archéologie 3 Musée de Folklore 10 Musée de la Tapisserie et des Arts du Tissu 11 Musée d’Histoire et des Arts Décoratifs 12 Musée des Beaux-Arts 13 Pont des Trous 1 Tour Henry VIII 2

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the first place of worship to stand on this spot. There was a church here as early as a.d. 761, and it’s thought there was a pagan temple before that. The 8th-century church was replaced by another in 850, which Viking raiders burned to the ground in 881. After fire again destroyed the replacement church in 1060, it was reconstructed by 1089 and became a place of refuge for a plague-stricken population. On September 14, 1090, after the dreaded disease had abated, the bishop led a great procession through the cathedral to honor Our Lady, who was credited with miraculous cures of sick pilgrims who had poured into the cathedral to pray before her statue. The Romanesque style was, in the eyes of a 13th-century bishop, old-fashioned compared to the Gothic buildings that were then appearing all over Europe. Before his money ran out, he had added stained-glass windows and created a soaring, graceful Gothic choir adjoining the low Romanesque nave. There’s no sense of disharmony, but rather a compatible marriage of the two styles. Paintings by Rubens and Jordaens adorn the interior, along with 700-year-old murals, a Renaissance pulpit, and a stained-glass “rose window.” Even these wonders pale before the display in the Trésor (Treasury), which houses a vast collection of priceless religious relics and antiquities. The centerpiece is a reliquary that takes the place of honor in the Procession of Tournai, the Chasse de Notre-Dame (Shrine of Our Lady), a masterpiece of the Mosan art style, with a gold covering created by Nicolas de Verdun in 1205.

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Place de l’Evêché (just off the Grand-Place). & 069/45-26-50. www.cathedrale-tournai.be. Admission: cathedral free; treasury 2€, 3€ family. Cathedral Apr–Oct daily 9:15am–noon and 2–6pm; Nov–Mar daily 9:15am–noon and 2–5pm. Treasury Apr–Oct daily 9:30am–noon and 2–6pm; Nov–Mar daily 9:30am–noon and 2–5pm.

Musée d’Archéologie (Archaeological Museum) A 17th-century pawnshop in the center of town houses collections of Tournai relics covering virtually every period in its history. The Merovingian section features items recovered in and around the tomb of Childeric, including the skeletons of horses sacrificed during the 5thcentury Frank king’s funeral. There’s a fine collection of glassware from the GalloRoman period of the 1st to the 4th century. Rue des Carmes 8 (off place de Lille). &069/22-16-72. Admission 3.50€ adults; 1.50€ seniors, students, and children 6–18; free for children 5 and under; free for all visitors 1st Sun of the month. Apr–Oct Wed–Mon 10am–5:30pm; Nov–Mar Mon and Wed–Sat 10am–noon and 2–5pm, Sun 2–5pm.

Musée d’Histoire et des Arts Décoratifs (Museum of History and Decorative Arts) This museum features examples of the exquisite porcelain and china

made in Tournai in the 18th century, including the dinner service for the duc d’Orléans, and displays of fine silverware and historical coins. Rue St-Martin 50 (at Cour d’Honneur). &069/33-23-53. Admission 3.50€ adults; 1.50€ seniors, students, and children 6–18; free for children 5 and under; free for all visitors 1st Sun of the month. Apr–Oct Wed–Mon 10am–5:30pm; Nov–Mar Mon and Wed–Sat 10am–noon and 2–5pm, Sun 2–5pm.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Museum of Fine Arts) It’s hard to say which is more impressive: the museum’s 700 works of art, or the building dating from 1928 that houses them. The star-shaped white stone structure, its interior illuminated by natural light, was designed by noted Art Nouveau architect Victor Horta. The art collections contain such outstanding works as Virgin and Child by 15th-century native son Roger de la Pasture (Rogier van der Weyden), and Edouard Manet’s Argenteuil and At Father Lathuille’s. Other Belgian artists represented include Pieter Brueghel the Younger, James Ensor, Henri de Braekeleer, and Sir Anthony van Dyck.

Enclos St-Martin (off rue St-Martin). &069/33-24-31. Admission 3.50€ adults; 2€ seniors, students, and children 6–18; free for children 5 and under; free for all visitors 1st Sun of the month. Apr–Oct Wed–Mon 10am–5:30pm; Nov–Mar Mon and Wed–Sat 10am–noon and 2–5pm, Sun 2–5pm.

Musée de la Tapisserie et des Arts du Tissu (Museum of Tapestry and Cloth Art) In the late Middle Ages, Tournai was one of the great European centers

of tapestry making, and this museum reflects that heritage. Several historical tapestries are displayed, but the museum focuses more on contemporary works, including pieces by modern Belgian artists like Roger Somville. Place Reine Astrid 9 (off rue de la Wallonie). &069/84-20-73. Admission 3.50€ adults; 2€ seniors, students, and children 6–18; free for children 5 and under; free for all visitors 1st Sun of the month. Apr–Oct Wed–Mon 10am–5:30pm; Nov–Mar Mon and Wed–Sat 10am–noon and 2–5pm, Sun 2–5pm.

Musée de Folklore (Folklore Museum) A marvelous 17th-century building in the center of town, the Maison Tournaisienne, with gables and mullioned windows, provides just the right setting for a series of authentic recreations of an ancient farmhouse, a tavern, a weaver’s workroom, a blacksmith’s forge, and many A Fictional Famous Son other old scenes, aimed at preserving the atmosphere of Tournai in times Elezelles, 20km (121⁄2 miles) northeast gone by. A fast-food stall shows how of Tournai, has decided it must have french fries were dispensed at the turn been the birthplace of fictional Belgian of the 20th century. Réduit des Sions 32–36 (off the Grand-Place). & 069/22-40-69. Admission 3.50€ adults; 2€ seniors, students, and children 6–18; free for children 5 and under; free for all visitors 1st Sun of the month. Apr–Oct Wed–Mon 10am– 5:30pm; Nov–Mar Mon and Wed–Sat 10am– noon and 2–5pm, Sun 2–5pm.

SIGHTSEEING TOURS From April until the end of August, a petit train touristique (little tourist train) is available to roll you through Tournai’s cobblestone streets, departing from the Grand-Place at 4pm. It runs only on Sunday in April; on Saturday, Sunday, and holidays May to June; and Tuesday to Sunday (and Mon holidays) July to August. A 50-minute ride is 3.50€, and 2.50€ for children 5 and under.

Where to Stay

Tournai

In the center of town, on a quiet square between the cathedral and the Escaut, this personable hotel is clean and bright, as is indicated by a white-painted exterior that contrasts sharply with the neighboring brick facades. Most guest rooms are quite small and pleasantly furnished in a contemporary style, but with no great pretensions to charm. A dozen somewhat larger, higher-priced executive rooms are better in all respects. An American-style buffet breakfast (extra) is served in the pleasant French/Belgian restaurant Le Promenade, in addition to lunch and dinner.

Hôtel Cathédrale

10 LIÈGE, THE MEUSE RIVER & HAINAUT

detective Hercule Poirot. To prove it, a funky statue (a remarkable likeness) of Agatha Christie’s famously fussy hero graces the wall of the Maison Communale (Town Hall).

Place St-Pierre 2 (2 blocks east of Cathédrale Notre-Dame), 7500 Tournai. & 069/25-00-00. Fax 069/25-00-01. www.hotelcathedrale.be. 71 units. 94€–105€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Amenities: Restaurant. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

235

L’Europe This hotel right in the central square follows the rustic style common in Tournai—except that, in this case, the style of the building is rustic Spanish—with antique paintings and lots of flowers in the public spaces. The guest rooms, plain but comfortable, have new furnishings, and some of them overlook the Grand-Place. The ground-floor cocktail bar Tam Tam provides more views on the square from a modestly Pacific outlook. Grand-Place 36, 7500 Tournai. & 069/22-40-67. Fax 069/23-52-38. 8 units. 65€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Amenities: Restaurant; cocktail bar. Inroom: TV.

Where to Dine Charles-Quint CONTINENTAL

It would be hard for a restaurant in this central location, with the Belfry just a few steps away, to not be popular, always supposing it can deliver on the plate. The “Charles the Fifth’s” mirrored, Art Deco–style dining room is invariably and deservedly busy for both lunch and dinner. The kitchen’s signature is combining Italian influences and ingredients—a sprinkle of Parmesan here, a touch of mozzarella there, and an occasional full dish like osso buco—with a FrancoBelgian base. An entrecôte (steak in butter sauce) might hit the spot just as well.

Grand-Place 3. &069/22-14-41. www.charles-quint.be. Main courses 19€–26€; fixed-price lunch 35€; fixed-price menu 49€. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Sat noon–2:30pm and 7–10:30pm, Sun noon–2:30pm.

LIÈGE, THE MEUSE RIVER & HAINAUT

Tournai

236

Plaisir d’Essences CONTINENTAL The antique ambience of Tournai Cathedral’s 17th-century former wine press is left outside the door here, in favor of cool reds and grays, with a mere smidgeon of visible bare brick and stone. At the helm are youthful but accomplished chef François Dufour and his wife, Marie, who serve light contemporary French fare with Mediterranean and Asian touches. The menu changes constantly, varying with the seasons and what’s fresh or hot at the local market. Seafood takes up around half of the menu, with lobster being one of the few regular items. You can dine on the sidewalk terrace in summer. Vieux Marché aux Poteries 2 (facing the Cathedral). &069/76-76-55. www.plaisirdessences.be. Main courses 22€–30€; fixed-price lunch 20€; fixed-price menus 35€–51€. MC, V. Tues, Thurs and Fri noon– 2:30pm and 6–10pm; Wed and Sun noon–2:30pm; Sat 6–10pm.

THE ARDENNES

scenic and gastronomic delight, les Ardennes (the Ardennes) makes for a welcome respite from museum hopping. With the change in landscape

comes a shift in emphasis, away from treasures hoarded indoors and toward the outdoor riches of bracing air, winding roads, sparkling streams, and tranquil lakes, in a setting sculpted by the ebb and flow of ice ages. Add to that some pretty resort towns nestled in steep river valleys, and fine old country inns, and you have an idea of the Ardennes.

The region offers a cornucopia of outdoor pursuits (though the topography is one of hills, rather than genuine mountains): hiking, biking, canoeing, fishing, golf, hunting, horseback riding, skiing, swimming, tennis, and more. Recommending an itinerary for the Ardennes is difficult. I don’t think you can do better than to follow your nose. Sooner or later, you’ll bump into some biggish place like Spa, Bouillon, Bastogne, or Durbuy, where you can join other wanderers. If you stick to the back roads, you’ll have fun getting lost among all the stone villages and farmhouses for which the region is justly famed. Many of these were reconstructed after being destroyed during the Battle of the Bulge in the winter of 1944 to 1945.

BOUILLON 60km (37 miles) S of Dinant

At a strategic bend in the Semois River, this little town (pop. 5,000) guarded for centuries the major route from the Eifel to Champagne. In addition to a spectacular location in the plunging river valley, Bouillon boasts the country’s finest medieval castle. The awesome 10th-century feudal castle of Godefroy de Bouillon, leader of the First Crusade to the Holy Land, still stands over the town, crouching like a great stone dragon on a steep bluff. Bouillon is also a scenic and gastronomic stronghold. Where better to try bouillon than in the town that gave it its name?

Essentials GETTING THERE Frequent service by TEC bus no. 8 goes to Bouillon from the train station at Libramont, on the rail line connecting Namur and Luxembourg. The bus ride takes 40 minutes by the fastest bus; for bus information, contact TEC (&081/25-35-55; www.infotec. be). By car from Dinant, take N95 southeast and then N89 south to Bouillon.

THE ARDENNES

Bouillon

The Ardennes on a Plate Food lovers, rejoice! This region is home to the delicately smoked Ardennes ham (jambon d’Ardenne), proudly served all over Belgium, and of other regional specialties, including

game and fresh trout and pike. The Ardennes is famed for its wealth of gourmet restaurants, many in country inns where the innkeeper doubles as chef.

The Maison du Tourisme du Pays de Bouillon, Quai des Saulx 12, 6830 Bouillon (& 061/46-52-11; fax 061/46-52-18; www. bouillon-tourisme.be), is open daily 10am to 6pm.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Seeing the Sights Château de Bouillon (Bouillon Castle) Once home to Duke Godefroy de Bouillon, this massive, sprawling castle is the town’s dramatic centerpiece, floodlit every night during summer months. The worthy de Bouillon actually put the castle in hock to raise funds for his great venture, the First Crusade (see “Duke of Hazards,” below). The mortgaged castle passed by default into the hands of the prince-bishops of Liège, who continued to hold it for 6 centuries. After the 15th century, it was conquered and reconquered several times, as local rulers and invading forces fought over this strategic spot. Within the castle’s thick walls, life during its turbulent history will come alive as you walk through the ruins and visit the old prisons and gallows and the so-called Hall of Justice. Esplanade Godefroid 1. &061/46-62-57. Admission 5.90€ adults, 5.10€ seniors, 4.30€ students, 4€ children 6–12, free for children 5 and under; combined tickets for Bouillon Castle and Ducal Museum 8.60€ adults, 5.60€ children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Jan–Feb and Dec Mon–Fri 1–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–5pm; Mar and Oct–Nov daily 10am–5pm; Apr–June and Sept Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat– Sun 10am–6:30pm; July–Aug daily 10am–6:30pm. Closed Dec 25.

Musée Ducal (Ducal Museum) Housed in a group of four neighboring 18thcentury buildings close to the Semois River, this rambling museum contains exhibits on the region’s archaeology, iron industry, and folklore. It includes the Godfrey of Bouillon Museum, which holds souvenirs of the Crusades and of gallant Godfrey, including a model of Godfrey’s tomb in Jerusalem as well as armor, weapons, and religious objects of the period. Rue du Petit 1–3 (at Place Ducale). &061/46-41-89. Admission 4€ adults, 3.50€ seniors, 3€ students, 2.20€ children 6–12, free for children 5 and under; combined tickets for Bouillon Castle and Ducal Museum 8.60€ adults, 5.60€ children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Jan 1–Oct 31 daily 10am–6pm, Nov 1–Dec 31 Sat–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Dec 25.

Where to Stay & Dine Set beside an old water mill, with wooded hills almost at its doorstep, you’ll find one of Belgium’s prettiest country inns. A warm, subdued sophistication exudes from the decor. A focal point for guests is the crackling log fire, which is surrounded by luxurious leather furniture and touches of brass to complete the lounge scene. The glassed-in bar is decorated with plants. The 12 guest rooms are appointed with the same sense of style. Extras include beautiful forest walks and horse-riding trails nearby. The hotel’s notable restaurant serves meals that

Auberge Le Moulin Hideux

238

The Belgian Ardennes 11 NETHERLANDS

10 mi

Aachen

E313 0

GERMANY

A13

10 km

N20

Waremme E40

A3 A3

Eupen

E40

N614

Liège M

N67

Verviers

E42

se eu

HAUTES FAGNES NATURE RESERVE

E42

N63

A27

Spa

Huy

N68

La Gleize

Robertville Malmedy Bütgenbach Stavelot

N86

N97

Trois Ponts

Durbuy E25

N63

N833

Hotton

N68

Sankt-Vith

A26 N807

Manhay

N89

he rt

N86

Marche-enFamenne

Bouillon

A15

THE ARDENNES

La Rocheen-Ardenne

N86

Rochefort

GERMA

Houffalize Han-surLesse

N18

N89 N30

St-Hubert Bastogne N40

LibramontChevigny

E411

LUXEMBOURG E25

N15

A26 N89

Betrix

Brussels

Bouillon N85

Area of detail

N40

L G I U M

LUX.

Habay o Sem is N43

FRANCE

E25

Arlon

E411

N83

Villers-devantOrval N88

N82

Luxembourg

D964

239

DUKE OF hazards

Bouillon

Godfrey of Bouillon, duke of Lower Lorraine, was just 15 when he inherited his lands, castle, and title in 1076. He was soon fighting for them and for his life against powerful local lords who wanted all four, and who thought they would easily get them. Godfrey proved them wrong in a war that culminated in a siege of Bouillon Castle in 1086, from which he emerged victorious. In 1095, Pope Urban II called for an “armed pilgrimage” to liberate Jerusalem from the Seljuk Turks and ensure safe passage for Christian pilgrims to the Holy Land. Godfrey was one of the first to answer the call, mortgaging his castle to the prince-bishop of Liège to finance an expedition. By June 1099, he stood before the walls of Jerusalem at the head of the combined Christian army.

THE ARDENNES

On July 15, the Crusaders stormed the Holy City and massacred its Muslim inhabitants. Setting aside his armor, Godfrey put on a linen robe and prayed barefoot at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Offered the title King of Jerusalem, he refused it, saying he “would not wear a crown of gold in the city where Our Lord had worn a crown of thorns.” He accepted instead the title Defender of the Holy Sepulcher. Godfrey did not long survive his victory: He died in 1100 and was buried in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. The Latin inscription on his tomb reads: “Here lies the renowned Godfrey of Bouillon, who brought this whole region under Christian sway. May his soul rest in the peace of Christ.” Back in Bouillon, the prince-bishop of Liège called in the mortgage and pocketed Bouillon Castle.

feature lamb, saddle of pork, game, and fish delicacies such as baby lobsters (which are kept in a tank out in the garden). Everything is cooked to order, so be prepared to wait a bit for your dinner—your patience will be rewarded. Rte. de Dohan (4km/21⁄2 miles northeast of Bouillon), 6831 Noirefontaine. &061/46-70-15. Fax 061/4672-81. www.moulinhideux.be. 12 units. 195€ double; from 245€ suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 40 from Bouillon. By car, take N865 east from Noirefontaine. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; heated indoor pool; tennis courts. Inroom: TV, minibar.

Hostellerie du Prieuré de Conques This is a great spot to enjoy perfect tranquillity on the edge of an Ardennes forest, in an atmospheric inn on the banks of the Semois River. This hotel is set in what was once a 7th-century convent (although the oldest remains go back only as far as the 12th c.). It overlooks green lawns, rose gardens, and the river. The charming guest rooms are individual in shape and character—some have alcoves, some peek from beneath the eaves—and their comfort rates just as high as their charm. The vaulted main dining room is warmed by an open fire, and any overflow of diners spills into a bevy of smaller vaulted rooms. Rue de Conques 2, 6820 Florenville. & 061/41-14-17. Fax 061/41-27-03. www.conques.be. 18 units. 125€–138€ double; 154€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Take N83 about 23km (14 miles) south and east from Bouillon. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

A Side Trip to Orval A visit to the impressive Abbaye Notre-Dame d’Orval (Abbey of Our Lady of Orval) , Villers-devant-Orval (&061/31-10-60; www.orval.be), set in a forest, is an exercise in serenity, since there is now little to suggest the enormous power its 240

11 THE ARDENNES Bastogne

monks wielded in past centuries. The abbey, now administered by a handful of monks, dates back to the coming of the first Cistercians in 1110, though much was left in ruins after a destructive visit from the French in 1793. Today the complex includes the old ruins, a church, and gardens. It produces two Trappist beers that are considered among the best of Belgian brews (you can taste them in bars throughout the land), and the artisanal cheese fromage d’Orval. The abbey is open daily March to May and October from 9:30am to 6pm, June to September from 9:30am to 6:30pm, and November to February from 10:30am to 5:30pm. Admission to the main abbey is free; to the ruins and museum, it is 5€ for adults, 4.50€ for seniors and students, 3€ for children 7 to 14, and free for children 6 and under. To get here by car from Bouillon, take the country road 27km (17 miles) southeast through Florenville; TEC bus no. 24 from Florenville rail station passes by the monastery.

BASTOGNE 70km (44 miles) S of Liège

This southern Ardennes town (pop. 15,000) owes its usefulness as a touring base today to the same assets that made it a strategic target in the past—the roads that converge on it from all points of the compass. During the Battle of the Bulge in the winter of 1944 to 1945, the U.S. 101st Airborne Division, outnumbered and surrounded, held the town until a relief force could break through to them. It was a hard fight for the 101st troopers—the “Battered Bastards of Bastogne,” they dubbed themselves. Their commander, Brig. Gen. Anthony MacAuliffe, answered German demands for surrender with a single word that became legend: “Nuts!” During the annual December memorial days, you’ll see the division’s Screaming Eagle emblem around town.

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE Bastogne makes a good day trip from almost any point in the Ardennes, but it’s a little out of the way to use as a base for exploring. There are regular buses from Liège and other towns—take bus no. 6416 from Libramont rail station. By car from Liège, take junction 53 or 54 off the A26/E25 Liège–Luxembourg City expressway. VISITOR INFORMATION The Maison du Tourisme du Pays de Bastogne, place MacAuliffe 60, 6600 Bastogne (& 061/21-27-11; fax 061/21-27-25; www. paysdebastogne.be), is open daily 9:30am to 12:30pm and 1 to 5:30pm.

EXPLORING BASTOGNE The tourism office can put you in touch with a number of local battlefield tour guides. Be aware that the scenes of action in and around Bastogne cover a considerable amount of ground, and you’ll ideally need a 1-day tour to get the most out of it. A good one is run by the store Militaria Bastogne, place MacAuliffe 38R (& 061/50-10-17; www.militariabastogne.eu). The tour, which lets you ride in a WC62 Dodge World War II truck, costs 125€ per person, including lunch. With your own car, a self-guided tour could work. Take the road east from Bastogne through Mageret, Longvilly, and Fetsch, villages where small task forces from the U.S. 9th and 10th Armored divisions were struck by the oncoming German 2nd Panzer, Panzer Lehr, and 26th Volksgrenadier divisions, and either destroyed or driven back to Bastogne. Closer to Bastogne, the villages of Foy, Bizory, Marvie, Senonchamps, and 241

THE BATTLE OF THE bulge

Bastogne

Hitler aimed his last great offensive squarely at the Americans, because he believed that if he hit them hard enough, their multiethnic citizen army would fall apart and run. By midDecember 1944, he had assembled his last reserves of men, tanks, and guns in the hilly, misty Eifel region of Germany, opposite the thinly held American lines in the Ardennes. In one of the great failures of military intelligence, the American high command didn’t know they were there. On the morning of December 16, the German forces charged out of the forests. Their aim was far-reaching: to smash straight through the American defenses, cross the Meuse River before Allied reinforcements had time to intervene, capture Brussels and the port of Antwerp, split the American army from the British and Canadians, and break the Allied coalition. The Führer’s ambition outstripped his means, but in the Ardennes he had overwhelming strength for the attack: 300,000 against 80,000 on the first day. A few of the hard-hit American defenders “bugged out,” but most held their ground until forced back or overrun. Savage struggles all across the Ardennes propelled the names of obscure towns, villages, and places into the history books: Rocherath and Krinkelt, the Elsenborn Ridge, Malmedy, Stavelot, Trois Ponts, La Gleize, SanktVith, the Skyline Drive, Clervaux, Wiltz, Bastogne. The action was dubbed the

THE ARDENNES

Battle of the Bulge, for the shape the front took as German forces pushed through the middle of the Ardennes. The lightly armed U.S. 82nd and 101st Airborne divisions were rushed in to stem the German armored tide until heavier reinforcements could be brought to bear. While the 82nd fought no-quarter battles with SS troops who had massacred American prisoners and murdered Belgian civilians, the 101st found itself cut off in Bastogne, holding the vital road junction there. On December 26, the enemy spearhead was destroyed just a few miles short of the Meuse. General George S. Patton’s Third Army, attacking from Luxembourg, relieved Bastogne. More weeks of heavy fighting pushed the German army back to its start line. Hitler’s great gamble had failed, with German casualties above 100,000 out of 500,000 engaged. The victors were the ordinary GI’s who, in the depths of winter, outnumbered and faced with a surprise offensive by a still-powerful foe, refuted Hitler’s contemptuous opinion of them. The price of victory was 81,000 American casualties out of 600,000 engaged: 19,000 killed, 47,000 wounded, and 15,000 taken prisoner. Memorials all over the Ardennes bear witness to their sacrifice. Those of America’s fallen not repatriated, or still lying in the Ardennes forests, rest at the military cemeteries of Neuville-en-Condroz and HenriChapelle.

Champs played prominent roles in the 101st Airborne’s staunch defense of the town. South of Bastogne, Lt. Col. Creighton Abrams’s “B Team” from the 4th Armored Division broke through the German lines at Assenois to link up with the besieged paratroops. American Memorial & Bastogne Historical Center Note: The Historical Center will be closed while undergoing a transformation from around mid-2011 until the end of 2012. A visit here will lay the groundwork for a better appreciation 242

Colline du Mardasson (1.6km/1 mile outside Bastogne). & 061/21-14-13. www.bastognehistorical center.be. Admission 8.50€ adults, 7€ seniors, 6€ children 8–12, free for World War II veterans and children 7 and under. May–Sept daily 9:30am–6pm; Mar–Apr and Oct–Dec daily 10am–5:30pm; Jan– Feb by arrangement. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 24–25 and 31.

40km (25 miles) NW of Bastogne; 25km (16 miles) SE of Dinant

This village, sited on a scenic stretch of the Lesse River, is a particularly good stop for those traveling with children, though the two places described below should be interesting for adults as well.

Han-Sur-Lesse

HAN-SUR-LESSE

11 THE ARDENNES

of the great battle fought here in December 1944. General MacAuliffe of the 101st Airborne Division and his opponent, General Hasso von Manteuffel of the 5th Panzer Army, both gave advice in putting together the film, dioramas, and commentary that tell the story of the siege of Bastogne. Afterward, visitors can climb to the gigantic star-shaped memorial to America’s fallen on Mardasson Hill. Key points of the battlefield are clearly posted for those interested in retracing the course of the fighting.

Essentials Trains from Namur and Liège stop at nearby Jemelle, from where a frequent service by TEC bus no. 29 goes to Han-sur-Lesse in 20 minutes. By car from Dinant, take N94 southeast to its junction with N86, then go northeast on this road for the last few miles. VISITOR INFORMATION The Office du Tourisme is at place Théo Lannoy, 5580 Han-sur-Lesse (&084/37-75-96; fax 084/37-75-76; www.rochefort.be). The office is open March daily 9:30am to 4pm; April to June daily 9:30am to 4:30pm (to 5:30pm Sat–Sun May–June); July to August daily 9:30am to 5:30pm (to 6pm Sat– Sun); September to October daily 10am to 4:30pm (to 5pm Sat–Sun Sept); November to February Monday to Friday from 10am to 4pm. GETTING THERE

What to See & Do Grotte de Han (Han Cave) Of the several cave complexes in the Ardennes, this one is probably the most spectacular and worth visiting. Only about one-fifth of the cave is open to the general public, though other parts are accessible to experienced speleologists. Guides take visitors on an hour-long tour to see the stalagmites and stalactites, marvel at the sometimes bizarre and sometimes graceful shapes taken on by the limestone rock of the caves, and listen to the echo in the great subterranean chambers carved out by the Lesse River. The highlight is a brief boat trip on an underground river. Rue Joseph Lamotte 2. &084/37-72-13. www.grotte-de-han.be. Admission (guided tours only) 13€ adults, 8.50€ children 3–12, free for children 2 and under. Jan–Mar Sat–Sun 11:30am–1pm and 2:30– 4:30pm; Apr–June daily 10am–noon and 1:30–4:30pm (to 5:30pm Sat–Sun and holidays); July–Aug daily 9:30am–noon and 1:30–5pm (to 5:30pm mid-June to mid-July); Sept–Oct daily 10am–noon and 1:30–4:30pm; Christmas week daily 11:30am and 1, 2:30, and 4pm.

Réserve d’Animaux Sauvages (Wildlife Reserve) The Wildlife Reserve, which is part of the same tourist complex as the Grotte de Han, gives you a breath of fresh air after the damp and chilly caves. You can take a guided tour by train through the scenic Massif du Boine estate, where you may see wild boars, wild horses, stags, 243

fallow deer, wolves, bison, ibex, chamois, tarpans, lynx, brown bears, and other animals—many of them are native to the area, but some are imported.

Durbuy

Departures from rue Joseph Lamotte 2, Han-sur-Lesse. & 084/37-72-13. www.grotte-de-han.be. Admission (guided tours only) 11€ adults, 7€ children 3–12, free for children 2 and under. Jan–Mar Sat– Sun 11:30am–1pm and 2:30–4:30pm; Apr–June daily 10am–noon and 1:30–4:30pm (to 5:30pm Sat–Sun and holidays); July–Aug daily 9:30am–noon and 1:30–5pm (to 5:30pm mid-June to mid-July); Sept–Oct daily 10am–noon and 1:30–4:30pm; Christmas week daily 11:30am and 1, 2:30, and 4pm.

THE ARDENNES

DURBUY 31km (19 miles) S of Liège

This quaint medieval town (pop. 11,000) on a bend on the Ourthe River dubs itself “the smallest city in the world,” a status it seems inordinately proud of even if it is impossible to prove—it seems to originate with it gaining town status in 1331. In any case, Durbuy makes an ideal touring base for this part of the Ardennes. Its narrow, twisting streets are lined with pretty, flower-trimmed stone houses, and there’s an 11th-century castle to complete the scene.

Essentials GETTING THERE There is a bus about every hour to Durbuy from the Barvaux rail station; the ride takes 20 minutes. By car from Liège, take junction 48 west from A26/E25. VISITOR INFORMATION The Syndicat d’Initiative is at place aux Foires 25, 6940 Durbuy (&086/21-24-28; fax 086/21-38-81; www.durbuyinfo.be).

Exploring Durbuy The village is pretty (though the main square is a big parking lot) without having any particularly outstanding sights. Wander around to peruse its medieval stone buildings, many of which house artists and craftspeople; or take a walk by the plunging valley of the Ourthe River or into the nearby forests. You get fine views of the town from scenic overlooks in the surrounding hills, and good exercise getting to them in the first place. Besides all that, there’s minigolf for the kids. Stores abound, selling antiques, pottery, handmade jewelry, and locally produced artisanal food and drink, including chocolates, liqueur, and beer.

Where to Stay & Dine In the heart of the old village, in a pedestrian zone fronted by 17th-century buildings, you’ll come to Le Clos des Récollets. Housed in a structure that dates from the 17th century, it has 18th-century modifications. The interior conserves the style of the period, with oak doors, oil paintings, and wooden furnishings. Illumination is provided by candle as much as possible. The guest rooms are rather plainly furnished but quite comfortable. On the premises is a good, moderately priced Belgian restaurant, with umbrella tables on a terrace for outdoor dining. Menu items include game in season, such as pheasant, and lobster stew with vegetables.

Le Clos des Récollets

Rue de la Prévôté 9, 6940 Durbuy. &086/21-29-69. Fax 086/21-36-85. www.closdesrecollets.be. 8 units. 105€ double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge. Inroom: TV, minibar.

This stellar, centrally located hotel overlooking a shallow gorge offers comfortable rooms replete with old-fashioned charm. Those

Le Sanglier des Ardennes 244

skiing THE ARDENNES

Spa

high Hautes Fagnes plateau can be a memorable experience. The main ski zones lie in the northern Ardennes, around Botrange, Robertville, Bütgenbach, Spa, Stavelot, Vielsalm, La Rocheen-Ardenne, and Bastogne. Parts of Luxembourg and Germany’s neighboring Eifel region likewise have skiing facilities. Detailed information is available from local tourist offices (some of which are listed in this chapter).

THE ARDENNES

It may not be the Alps, and it sure ain’t the Rockies, but the Ardennes can be cool for skiers—so long as the snow shows up. Therein lies the problem: In the low Ardennes hills—highest point 694m (2,277 ft.) above sea level—the appearance of snow is unpredictable. Some years it stays away. Still, when the thermometer starts dropping, ski aficionados in Belgium take serious notice. Although there are some downhill slopes, cross-country is more usual. Traversing the gentle wooded hills or the

in the back overlook the Ourthe River; those in the front have a postcard-pretty view of the old town, with hills in the background. The restaurant on the ground floor is internationally famous. Fish straight from the river outside come to the table full flavored, with subtle sauces or seasonings that add to their delicacy. Regional specialties such as game and the famed smoked jambon (ham) take on new dimensions after passing through this extraordinary kitchen. There’s a covered terrace for outdoor dining. Rue Comte Théodule d’Ursel 14, 6940 Durbuy. & 086/21-32-62. Fax 086/21-24-65. www.sanglierdes-ardennes.be. 45 units. 120€–240€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

SPA 28km (17 miles) SE of Liège

To uncover the origin of mineral springs, you need to go straight to the source. Where better to begin than Spa? The town (pop. 11,000) virtually floats on some of the healthiest H2O ever to gurgle up to the surface and has been a bustling resort ever since a medieval blacksmith bought up the land holding these wondrous springs. Even earlier, the Roman geographer Pliny the Elder, in the 1st century a.d., might have been referring to these waters when he wrote about a curative spring in the country of the Tungri. The town that grew up around them has watered the likes of Charles II of England, Montaigne, the queen of Sweden, and Czar Peter the Great of Russia. So universally was its name equated with the miracles of thermal springs and mineral waters that the word “spa” is now applied to health and fitness centers of every description.

Essentials GETTING THERE Trains run about hourly to Spa from Liège, but you have to transfer at Pepinster; the ride by the fastest trains takes 54 minutes. Bus no. 388 to Spa departs regularly from in front of Verviers-Centrale rail station on the main Brussels-Liège-Eupen line; the ride takes 40 minutes. By car from Liège, take 245

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Spa

A26/E25 southeast to junction 46, then follow the signs for Remouchamps, and from there take N697 east. VISITOR INFORMATION The Office du Tourisme is at place Royale 41, 4900 Spa (&087/79-53-53; fax 087/79-53-54; www.spa-info.be), inside the 19thcentury Pavillon des Petits-Jeux, in the center of town. The office is open April to September Monday to Friday from 9am to 6pm, and Saturday, Sunday, and holidays from 10am to 6pm; October to March, hours are Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm, and Saturday, Sunday, and holidays from 10am to 5pm. SPECIAL EVENTS In July, hundreds of thousands of visitors show up for the Francofolies de Spa (& 087/77-63-81; www.francofolies.be), a 5-day musical celebration of Francophone music of all genres. August sees aficionados of an entirely different kind of noise pour in for the Belgian Formula One Grand Prix motor race at the nearby Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps (&087/29-37-00; www.spafrancorchamps.be), arguably the most scenic racetrack in the world.

What to See & Do In the 18th and 19th centuries, curistes came from all over Europe to take the waters, gamble their money in the casino founded in 1763, and, like Victor Hugo, stroll the forested Promenade des Artistes. Visitors continue to gather in Spa both for the healing treatments and for its lively gaming action at the Casino de Spa, rue Royale 4 (&087/77-20-52; www.casinodespa.be), in the center of town. The casino is open Monday to Friday from 11am to 4am, and weekends from 11am to 5am. There was a time when if you were here for the “cures,” you would head to the neoclassical ornate mineral baths, the Bains de Spa (1863), on place Royale. The building is still there, but now the watery action has moved to the hilltop Thermes de Spa , Colline d’Annette et Lubin 1 (&087/77-25-60; www.thermesdespa. com), which opened in 2006 and can be reached by funicular from a station in the Parc de Sept Heures, close to the tourist office. Spa’s ultramodern spa offers just about every kind of water cure, therapy, and relaxation known to man or woman. The spa is open Monday to Thursday and Saturday from 10am to 9pm, Friday from 10am to 10pm, and Sunday from 10am to 8pm. Admission for 3 hours is 17€ for adults (14€ after 5:30pm), 15€ for students and visitors with disabilities, 12€ for children 6 to 14 (younger children are generally not allowed in, though there are mother-and-baby sessions), 27€ for a full day for all visitors, and 39€–55€ for a family. Another attraction in town is the Pouhon Pierre le Grand (Peter the Great Spring), place Pierre le Grand (&087/79-53-53), in what was formerly a winter garden and is now a small art gallery. The pavilion (1880) was constructed in the elegant Belle Epoque style, with lots of wrought iron and windows combining to give it a light, airy feel. The pavilion usually hosts small-scale exhibits and is open April to October daily 10am to noon and 1:30 to 5pm; November to March, hours are Monday to Friday from 1:30 to 5pm, weekends from 10am to noon and 1:30 to 5pm. The diminutive Lac de Warfaaz, 2.5km (11⁄2 miles) outside of town at Nivezé, was once a setting for Venetian-style regattas—they must have been very small regattas, considering the size of the lake, which these days is populated by pedal-powered boats that are available to rent. On Sunday, there’s a flea market (8am–2pm) in the wrought-iron Galerie Léopold II arcade, behind the tourist office.

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THE ROUTE DES FONTAINES

11 THE ARDENNES Spa

The Route des Fontaines connects the numerous fontaines or sources (mineral springs) around Spa, and at some of them you can draw as much water as you like for free (bring your own containers). The water is full of iron and said to be very healthy, but most of it smells remarkably bad. To visit the main springs, pick up a map and brochure from the tourist office or follow this self-guided walking tour, which covers 10km (6 miles). Go south from place Royale, uphill and into the forest on rue de Barisart, to the Source de Barisart, a spring of commercially bottled sparkling Spa water. This hasn’t got much in the way of charm, so by all means pass by at a fast clip if time is tight. From here signs point the way on a pathway among the trees to the Fontaine de la Géronstère, located in a grotto. Go northeast now, on the long, straight chemin des Fontaines, past the multiple imported tree species of the Arboretum de Tahanfagne, to two side-by-side springs, the Fontaine de la Sauvenière and the Fontaine de Groesbeeck. Then go downhill on avenue Peltzer de Clermont to the Fontaine du Tonnelet, on a road that leads back into Spa. You’ll find rustic restaurants or cafes conveniently located about 10 steps from each spring—you’d almost think it had been planned that way (see “Where to Dine,” below).

Where to Stay Best Western L’Auberge This hotel in the center of town opens onto a small square; beyond that is Spa’s bustling main street, rue Royale. The guest rooms are furnished in a pastel-toned contemporary style that’s relatively uninspired compared with the grand look of the building itself, with its timber frames and casement windows. Tastefully furnished suites include a bedroom, a large living room, a fully equipped kitchen, and a bathroom; each of these can accommodate up to four people. The hotel’s ground floor houses a genuine jewel, in its be-mirrored, Belle Epoque–style French-Belgian brasserie. Place du Monument 3–4, 4900 Spa. &087/77-48-33. Fax 087/77-48-40. www.auberge-spa.be. 32 units. 77€–149€ double; 120€–172€ suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 8€. Amenities: Restaurant. Inroom: TV.

Surrounded by lawns dotted with ancient trees, this villa on the southern edge of Spa was constructed for Baron Nagelmackers, whose family founded the Orient Express. It still feels like a private home. A mixture of period and functional furnishings give the inn a welcoming, homey feel. Fruit and sweets greet you in your room on arrival. Three of the rooms have private balconies; you can elect to have your breakfast served there or on the terrace downstairs.

La Heid des Pairs

Av. Professor Henrijean 143, 4900 Spa. &087/77-43-46. Fax 087/77-06-44. www.hotellaheid.be. 7 units. 115€–175€ double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; outdoor pool. Inroom: TV, hair dryer.

Where to Dine FRENCH/BELGIAN A 200-year-old building with creaky wooden floorboards and a cozy, U-shaped dining room is the graceful setting for a variety of seafood and regional dishes. You read the menu from a board that the owners prop beside your table, and you choose from a wide-ranging, wellconsidered wine list—at prices, though, that can easily double your bill. The pâté de

Brasserie du Grand Maur

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La Gleize

foie gras (duck-liver pâté) is excellent, as is the côte d’agneau d’Ecosse (Scottish side of lamb). There’s a small bar where you can enjoy your aperitif and postprandial poussecafé. In the summer, you can dine on a garden terrace. Rue Xhrouet 41 (behind Pouhon Pierre le Grand). & 087/77-36-16. www.legrandmaur.com. Main courses 18€–20€; fixed-price menus 35€–45€. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Sun noon–2pm and 6:30–11pm.

Back in Spa, La Tonnellerie, Parc des Sept Heures 1 (& 087/77-22-84; www. latonnellerie.be), in the park just behind the tourist office, is a good place to dine in the open air when the weather is fine.

DINING ALONG THE ROUTE DES FONTAINES The first spring on the route, the Fontaine de Barisart (see above), has the least interesting eatery, a blocky, cafeteria-style place with all the charm of a missile silo. After that, things pick up. La Géronstère, rte. de la Géronstère 119 (&087/7703-72; www.lageronstere.com), is a stone farmhouse-style building that stocks good snacks, beside the Fontaine de la Géronstère; farmhouse-style Le Relais de la Sauvenière, rue de la Sauvenière 116 (&087/77-42-04; www.lerelaisdelasauveniere.be), is at the Fontaine de la Sauvenière and the adjacent Fontaine de Groes, rte. du Tonnelet 82 beeck; and Italian La Fontaine du Tonnelet (& 087/77-26-03), in a red-and-white pavilion with an interior decorated in the style of a Tuscan villa, is beside the Fontaine du Tonnelet.

LA GLEIZE 14km (9 miles) S of Spa

The main claim to fame of this village—aside from a scenic location in the rugged Ambève River valley—is that it got blown to bits in December 1944 during the Battle of the Bulge. The fighting here was as important to the eventual U.S. victory Impressions in the Ardennes as the better-known struggle at Bastogne. La Gleize is on No one could say they enjoyed being N633, between Trois Ponts and here during the Battle of the Ardennes. Stoumont. None of us wanted to be here. But we Spearheading the entire German had a job to do. We hope that what offensive, Kampfgruppe Peiper, a powhappened here will not be forgotten, erful battle group from the 1st SS because we don’t want a new generaPanzer Division (Leibstandarte Adolf tion to go through the same experience. Hitler), under Oberstürmbannführer —Battle of the Bulge veteran Don Joachim Peiper, broke through the thin Lassen, 82nd Airborne Division American front in the Losheim Gap. Peiper’s tanks and armored infantry drove west through Stavelot to Trois Ponts, where American engineers blew up the vital bridges over the Amblève in their faces. The battle group was brought to bay at La Gleize, cut off, and pounded relentlessly by artillery. Just 800 of Peiper’s 6,000-strong force, minus all their tanks and other heavy weaponry, made it back to German lines. Musée Décembre 1944 (December 1944 Museum) This museum, in an old presbytery off the main street, focuses on the struggle waged in and around La Gleize by U.S. troops against Kampfgruppe Peiper. Dioramas containing 85 uniformed mannequins representing soldiers from both sides, along with military 248

Rue de l’Eglise 7. &080/78-51-91. www.december44.com. Admission 5€ adults, 3€ children 5–10, free for children 4 and under. Mar to late Nov daily 10am–6pm; late Nov to Feb Sat–Sun, holidays and school vacations 10am–6pm.

This rugged frontier—where Belgium meets Holland, Germany, and Luxembourg—is arguably one of the prettiest places in western Europe. The dense pine forests of the Eifel-Ardennes region alternate with rolling hills and deeply gouged river valleys, creating an outdoor playground for ramblers, cyclists, and canoeists. Known as the East Cantons (Ostkantone in German; Cantons de l’Est in French), this district in the east of Belgium is home to the country’s German-speaking minority. Of its population of 100,000, two-thirds speak German and the remainder French. The whole area is sparsely populated and wonderfully scenic, with no end in sight of hills, forests, and streams. Outdoor pursuits are a way of life here. The entire East Cantons district is a popular vacation zone and has an extensive array of hotels, guesthouses, and campgrounds. Going around by car is the only way that makes sense here. Just a few buses depart daily from key entry points, like the rail stations at Verviers and Eupen, to connect small towns and villages around the district that include Malmedy, Bütgenbach, Sankt-Vith, and Burg Reuland. Except where otherwise stated, all directions are for car travel. For visitor information about the East Cantons in general, contact Verkehrsamt der Ostkantone, Mühlenbachstrasse 2, 4780 Sankt-Vith (& 080/22-76-64; fax 080/22-65-39; www.eastbelgium.com).

The Ostkantone

THE OSTKANTONE

11 THE ARDENNES

equipment, photographs, maps, and a short documentary film, illuminate the fierce fighting. A rare German Royal Tiger tank, a shot- and shell-scarred behemoth armed with a high-velocity 88-millimeter cannon, stands guard outside, having been liberated from its original allegiance. Few American weapons could dent a Royal Tiger, far less knock one out, and a close-up view of one gives you an idea why.

Eupen 20km (12 miles) NE of Spa; 34km (21 miles) E of Liège

This handsome little town (pop. 17,000) is the capital of the East Cantons. It houses the German-speaking minority’s local parliament, a prime minister, and a Germanlanguage television and radio station, and hosts a plethora of restaurants, bars, shops, and even nightlife venues.

ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE There are hourly trains to Eupen from Brussels and Liège, some direct and some involving a transfer at Verviers; the direct train ride from Liège takes 40 minutes. By car from Liège, take junction 38 off A3/E40. VISITOR INFORMATION Tourist Info Eupen is at Marktplatz 7, 4700 Eupen (&087/55-34-50; fax 087/55-66-39; www.eupen-info.be). The office is open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm, Saturday from 9am to 3pm, and Sunday (mid-July– Aug) from 9am to 3pm.

WHAT TO SEE & DO The Exekutive (Parliament) of the East Cantons, Klötzerbahn 32 (&087/55-3450), is in a handsome patrician mansion dating from 1761; guided tours are free, but you can only make one by prior arrangement. The baroque Sankt-Nikolaus 249

hautes fagnes NATIONAL PARK

The Ostkantone

Eupen is a gateway to the wide green yonder. Outside the town lies the Hertogenwald Forest, with many marked walking and riding trails. Beyond the forest, in the direction of Malmedy, is Belgium’s largest national park, the Hautes Fagnes Nature Reserve, a high, boggy fen, or moorland plateau, with unique subalpine flora, fauna, and microclimate. You can access the reserve through Baraque Michel and Mont-Rigi. Parts of the reserve are closed for some weeks in spring due to the breeding season for the endangered coq de bruyère (black grouse), and may be closed on occasion in summer due to the increased fire risk. At all times, you must stick to the boardwalks and signposted paths (unless accompanied by an official guide). A hike amid the stark beauty of the Hautes Fagnes (Hohes

THE ARDENNES

Venn in German) in the dead of winter is a memorable experience—but be aware that the subalpine climate can suddenly change to subarctic, so do this only if you are properly clad and equipped. For the lowdown on the Hautes Fagnes, visit the Centre Nature de Botrange (&080/44-03-00; www. botrange.be), signposted off the road to Sourbrodt, which documents the reserve’s history and ecology. The center is open daily 10am to 6pm. Admission to the center is free; to the museum, it is 3€ for adults, 2.50€ for seniors, 1.20€ for children 6 to 18, and free for children 5 and under. Close by is the Signal de Botrange, a tower that marks the less-than-dizzying highest point in Belgium, 694m (2,277 ft.) above sea level.

Pfarrkirche (Church of St. Nicholas), Marktplatz (&087/74-20-62), incorporating part of a 14th-century church, dates mainly from 1720 to 1726. Its two bulbous spires from the late 1890s have become symbols of the town, and the Aachen style of the exterior, contrasting with an interior design typical of Liège, reflects Eupen’s position on the frontier between the German and the Belgian cities. The church is open daily; admission is free.

WHERE TO STAY On the eastern edge of town, beside the road that leads uphill to the Hertogenwald Forest and the Hautes Fagnes, this family-run hotel boasts a good location. The Weser River very nearly runs through it, and just across the street is a small park with a fountain. The guest rooms are spacious and have twin beds that can be rolled together to make a double; a comfortable sofa or armchair; and a large bathroom with a combined bathtub and shower. Every room has a balcony; ask for one over the river, or if the sound of running water sets off your own waterworks, one looking out on the hills. The warm decor features peach-colored walls and lush floral patterns on the curtains and bedcovers. The hotel’s classic French restaurant, Le Gourmet, is well regarded.

Best Western Ambassador Hotel Bosten

Haasstrasse 81 (in the Unterstadt/Lower Town), 4700 Eupen. & 087/74-08-00. Fax 087/74-48-41. www.ambassador-bosten.be. 28 units. 119€–159€ double; 185€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 12€. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

WHERE TO DINE Le Mont-Rigi BELGIAN A few miles out of Eupen on the Malmedy road, this stone brasserie-restaurant has one of the finest outdoor terraces imaginable. It looks 250

Rte. de Botrange 135, Mont-Rigi (at Hautes Fagnes Nature Reserve). &080/44-48-44. www.mont-rigi. be. Main courses 11€–19€; menu du jour 9.95€–21€. MC, V. Tues–Sun 10am–8 or 9pm.

20km (12 miles) S of Eupen; 18km (11 miles) E of Spa

Beyond the Hautes Fagnes, in the direction of the German border, is Lac de Robertville, a 62-hectare (153-acre) lake outside Robertville village that’s a popular area for swimming and watersports in summer. Burg Reinhardstein (Castle Reinhardstein) This is the very image of a fairy-tale castle, a little more homey than formidable in appearance. Nevertheless, its battlemented towers stand on a rugged rocky outcrop overlooking a forest and a plunging stream. After having tumbled into near ruin, it was saved from total destruction by a Belgian castle enthusiast, the late professor Jean Overloop, and fully restored. Now you can tour its towers and chambers in the company of guides who have inherited Overloop’s love for the place.

The Ostkantone

Robertville

11 THE ARDENNES

out over the forest-fringed Fagne de la Poleûr moorland and acts as a sun trap in good weather. The place can get busy with hikers, bikers, and day-trippers, especially on weekends in summer and during the winter ski season, but at other times it can be very quiet, which accounts for an uncertain but early closing time. Meals range from simple snacks of cheese and cold cuts, through the ubiquitous Belgian steak-frites, to lavish game dishes in season. In addition to outside, you can eat in either the convivial main area at no-frills wood tables or the formal restaurant section.

Chemin du Cheneux 50, Ovifat (signposted from the village). &080/44-68-68. www.reinhardstein. net. Admission (guided tours only) 6€ adults, 4.80€ seniors and children 6–16, free for children 5 and under. July–Aug Mon–Fri 2:30 and 4pm; Sat–Sun 11:15am and 2:30 and 4pm.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE On the shores of Lac de Robertville, near the Hautes Fagnes Nature Reserve, the rooms here are notable for a chic country style that sets a relaxing tone to complement the rural location and the hotel’s wellness philosophy. The hotel restaurant’s classic French cuisine is served with a delicate touch. Pike from the lake comes poached and served on lettuce with a white butter sauce—the choice when it’s available. Strolls along the lake shore are complemented by the hotel’s own wellness spa, which features hydromassage, Nordic sauna and Moroccan hammam, balneotherapy, massage, and more.

Hôtel des Bains

Haelen 2, 4950 Robertville. & 080/67-95-71. Fax 080/67-81-43. www.hoteldesbains.be. 13 units. 145€–210€ double; 230€–260€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. A short way from Spa on E5 to junction A27, signposted MALMEDY-WAIMES. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; heated indoor pool; spa; Wi-Fi (free). Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Bütgenbach 10km (6 miles) SE of Robertville; 28km (17 miles) SE of Eupen

You could easily drive right through this pleasant but otherwise unremarkable village without noticing it much, even though it’s at the heart of a popular vacation zone. Tourist information is available from Tourismus Bütgenbach, Klosterstrasse 1, 4750 Bütgenbach (& 080/86-47-23; fax 080/86-47-24; www.butgenbach.be), on the village’s northern edge. Worth looking out for are signs pointing to Sport- und Freizeitzentrum Worriken (&080/44-69-61; www.worriken.be), a bustling sport and leisure center on 251

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The Ostkantone

252

the shore of Stausee Bütgenbach, a manmade lake set amid hills and forests on the village’s eastern edge. Worriken’s multitude of active offerings includes sailboating (on tiny sailboats), windsurfing, kayaking, swimming, and mountain-biking, along with a gamut of indoor sports for when the weather is poor, and a special program for kids. Among the amenities around the lakeshore are camping and trailer sites, and timber vacation chalets to rent (from the center’s office). A self-service restaurant serves tolerable eats and has outdoor dining on a balcony overlooking the lake. From Bütgenbach, N632 runs southeast for 13km (8 miles) through Büllingen to the German border at Losheimergraben.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE There are 10 hotels and pensions in Bütgenbach and 10 more just up the road in Büllingen, along with multiple bed-and-breakfast options in the surrounding area. Many of the hotels have more-than-decent restaurants, and there are eateries ranging from plain to gourmet throughout the area.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HOLLAND

can just about guarantee that your trip to Holland will go well (legal eagles please note that “just about”). Of the three Benelux lands, the Netherlands is likely to be the

most familiar-seeming to a visitor from the English-speaking world. But it’s still a foreign country, which is why you want to go there, isn’t it? A few hints on how to plan and navigate your visit can’t hurt, so peruse this chapter for some practicalities.

For information that covers planning and tips for the Benelux countries in general, see chapter 3.

THE REGIONS IN BRIEF The Netherlands might be a small country, but it boasts one of Europe’s most memorable cities: Amsterdam. Around Amsterdam, the old and historic province of Holland, now divided into separate northern and southern provinces, is the economic powerhouse of the nation, and its most heavily populated region. Beyond these are three more or less natural divisions—the northern, central, and southern Netherlands. AMSTERDAM The national capital—easygoing, prosperous, full of canals, bridges, and museums—is the natural focus of a visit to Holland. Few skyscrapers mar the clarity of the sky, and locals mostly walk or ride bicycles from place to place. The historic center of town recalls Amsterdam’s 17th-century Golden Age, when it was the command post of a vast trading network and colonial empire, and wealthy merchants constructed gabled residences along neatly laid-out canals. A delicious irony is that some of the placid old structures now host brothels, smoke shops, and extravagant nightlife. NOORD-HOLLAND You can think of North Holland province as Amsterdam’s environs, because anywhere in the province is within easy reach of the capital. Haarlem is a graceful town of winding canals and medieval neighborhoods that hold several fine museums. A visit to the windmill-speckled, tradition-rich village of Zaanse Schans, on the banks of the Zaan River, makes a great short excursion. Among many other options, you can make day trips to brash Zandvoort or a bunch of other

254

30 km

30 mi

Afsluitdijk

Vlieland

E22

Zaandijk

rrke ijk Ma ardd wa

Purmerend Edam Volendam Lelystad Marken Monnickendam FLEVOLAND Muiden

Hoorn

Urk

A28

E232

Kampen

Emmeloord

Hindeloopen

Makkum

Sneek

E232

Assen

Hardenberg

Hoogeveen

Emmen

D R E N T H E

A28

Zwolle O V E R I J S S E L

A28

Appelscha

Drachten

Meppel

E22

Delfzijl

Groningen

Juist

Norderney

GERMANY

G R O N I N G E N

Schiermonnikoog

F R I E S L A N D

Harlingen

Enkhuizen

Ameland

Leeuwarden

Stavoren

e e

Terschelling

IJsselmeer N O O R D H O L L A N D Medemblik

Alkmaar

Bergen

Den Helder

Den Burg

Texel

Zaanse Koog aan Schans de Zaan Zaandam IJmuiden Broek in Waterland Zandvoort Amsterdam Haarlem

D S L A N I S

Borkum

The Regions in Brief

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HOLLAND

Holland

Ghent

Vlissingen We ster sc h el d e

Middelburg

A58

E312

Z E E L A N D

Oosterschelde

Zierikzee

Brussels

Antwerp

Bergen op Zoom

Roosendaal

Kinderdijk

R Breda

O E312

E311

A27

Tilburg

Utrecht

E25

Maastricht

Apeldoorn

Deventer

A12

E35

A2 E25

A67

E34

Zevenaar

Arnhem

Mönchengladbach

G E L D E R L A N D

E231

as Nijmegen

Waal

Hertogenbosch (Den Bosch) A B A N

Eindhoven

A58

A59

Ne de r R ij n

Amersfoort

U T R E C H T

De Haar

Hilversum

The Regions in Brief

Oosterschelde

Gouda

A12 E30

Leiden

E19

Z U I D - H O L L A N D

Rotterdam

Scheveningen The Hague (Den Haag)/ ‘s-Gravenhage Delft Hoek van Holland

Laren

Naarden

Schiphol Airport

M I

R G Ma as

Aalsmeer l

Cologne

Essen

Düsseldorf

Enschede

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HOLLAND

Lisse

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PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HOLLAND

When to Go

resorts on the North Sea coast, and to traditional IJsselmeer lakeside towns and villages such as Volendam, Marken, Edam, and Hoorn. Farther out, hop a ferry from Den Helder across to Texel, the closest of the Wadden Islands. ZUID-HOLLAND South Holland province contains an awesome amount of interest for visitors. Starting with the seat of government, The Hague, a graceful city separated from the North Sea only by its seacoast resort of Scheveningen, is far more than politics. Similarly, leading-edge Rotterdam, which sits on the delta where the Rhine, Maas, and Waal rivers meet the North Sea, is far more than a great port. Delft is the town of the famous blue-and-white porcelain, the cradle of the Dutch Republic, the traditional burial place of the royal family, and the birthplace and inspiration of the 17th-century master of light and subtle emotion, painter Jan Vermeer. Famous for its associations with the Pilgrims who founded the Plymouth colony in present-day Massachusetts, Leiden was the birthplace of the Dutch tulip trade and of Rembrandt, and it’s home to the oldest university in the country. Gouda is renowned for its cheese. FRIESLAND, GRONINGEN & DRENTHE Every one of the three sparsely populated northern provinces has a different character. With its own language, traditions, and national history, lake-filled Friesland is a vacation area par excellence, particularly on its string of sea islands. Groningen has its bustling university city of the same name, and Drenthe, Holland’s “Green Province,” is dotted with prehistoric monuments. UTRECHT, GELDERLAND, OVERIJSSEL & FLEVOLAND Stretching through the heartland, the four central provinces encompass a variety of scenery. Three great rivers—the Rhine, Maas, and Waal—flow through here. If it wasn’t for the forests in Gelderland and Utrecht, most of Holland would consist of the flat green fields dotted with farmhouses so often depicted on the canvases of Dutch Masters. Overijssel is barely touched by tourism, and Flevoland, built on land reclaimed from the IJsselmeer Lake (the former Zuiderzee), has existed as a province only since 1986. ZEELAND, NOORD-BRABANT & LIMBURG These three provinces consider themselves the Burgundian part of the Netherlands, packed to their borders with southern charm. Coastal Zeeland, the part of Holland most threatened by the sea, is protected by the Delta Works. These massive dams and barriers also Visitor Information shelter many coastal resorts (and seafood restaurants). Noord-Brabant has For contact details of the Netherlands most of the marshy Biesbosch tourist offices in the United States, BritNational Park on its territory, as well ain, and other countries, see “Visitor as the city of Eindhoven, home base Information” under “Fast Facts: Holof the giant Philips electronics corpoland,” in chapter 21. ration. Maastricht, a city many Dutch consider the country’s second liveliest (after Amsterdam), and the country’s highest “mountain”—a peak that ascends a whole 321m (1,053 ft.)—are both in the southeast province of Limburg.

WHEN TO GO “In season” in Holland means from mid-April to mid-October. The peak of the tourist season is July and August, when the weather is at its finest. But the weather here is never really extreme, and you’ll find Holland every bit as attractive during 256

shoulder- and off-season months. Not only are airlines, hotels, and restaurants cheaper and less crowded during this time (with more relaxed and personalized service), but some appealing events are going on. Case in point: Holland’s bulb fields burst with color from mid-April to mid-May.

Climate

12 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HOLLAND When to Go

Holland has a maritime climate. Summer temperatures average about 67°F (19°C); the winter average is 35°F (2°C). Winters, moderated a touch by the North Sea, are often rainy (it’s driest Feb–May). Throughout the year, you can expect some rain. July and August are the best months to soak up rays on a sidewalk cafe terrace, dine at an outdoor restaurant in the evening, and head for the beach. September usually has a few weeks of fine late-summer weather; and there are even sunny spells in winter, when brilliant, crisp weather alternates with clouded skies. Although the temperature doesn’t always linger long below freezing in The Euro winter, remember that much of Holland is below sea level, making fog, Holland’s currency is the euro (see mist, and dampness your too-frequent “Money & Costs,” in chapter 3). companions. This damp chill often seems to cut through to your very bones, so you’ll want to layer yourself in Gore-Tex or something similar in the colder months. In northern provinces like Friesland, if the temperature falls far enough, canals, rivers, and lakes might freeze to become sparkling highways and playgrounds for ice skaters; the farther south you go, the less chance there is of this happening. To prepare for Holland’s unpredictable weather, invest in a fold-up umbrella; likewise, carry a raincoat (with a wool liner for winter), pack a sweater or two (even in July), and be prepared to layer your clothing any time of year. Don’t worry: You’re allowed to leave space for T-shirts, skimpy tops, and sneakers. For weather information once inside Holland, call & 0900/8003. Or visit the Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute website www.knmi.nl and click the English link.

Amsterdam’s Average Monthly Temperature & Days of Rain TEMP. (°F) TEMP. (°C) DAYS OF RAIN

JAN 38 3 21

FEB 37 3 17

MAR 43 6 19

APR 47 8 20

MAY JUNE JULY 54 59 62 12 15 17 19 17 20

AUG 62 17 20

SEPT 58 14 19

OCT 51 11 20

NOV 44 7 22

DEC 40 4 23

Holidays Public holidays in Holland are January 1 (New Year); Good Friday; Easter Sunday and Monday; April 30 (Koninginnedag/Queen’s Day); Ascension; Pentecost Sunday and Monday; and December 25 (Christmas) and December 26. The dates for Easter, Ascension, and Pentecost change each year. In addition, there are two Remembrance Days related to World War II, neither of which is an official holiday, though you may find some stores closed: May 4, Herdenkingsdag (Memorial Day), honors all those who died in the war; and May 5 celebrates Bevrijdingsdag (Liberation Day).

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Holland Calendar Of Events For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events. frommers.com, where you’ll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of We can walk on water and see the lands what’s happening in cities all over the we made with our own hands. world. The website of the Netherlands —Historian Herman Pleij (on skating Board of Tourism & Conventions (www. frozen waterways in winter), holland.com) has more information. National Geographic, Jan 1998 One of Holland’s most eagerly anticipated events is the Elfstedentocht, the 11-cities race, in which skaters compete over a 200km (124-mile) course through Friesland. The first race was run in 1909, and it has been run only 15 times, most recently in 1997. If the conditions allow the race to go ahead when you are visiting, it’s well worth going out of your way to watch—or even to take part. Keep a weather eye on the Fryslân Marketing website (www.beleeffriesland.nl).

Impressions

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HOLLAND

Holland Calendar of Events

JANUARY New Year. This celebration is wild and not always wonderful. Youthful spirits celebrate the New Year with firecrackers, which they throw at the feet of passersby. This keeps hospital emergency rooms busy. January 1. International Film Festival Rotterdam. More than 300 indie films are screened at theaters around town. Contact &010/890-9090 or www.filmfestivalrotterdam.com. January 26 to February 6, 2011; similar dates in 2012.

FEBRUARY Carnival, Maastricht and Den Bosch (’s-Hertogenbosch). Contact VVV Maastricht (& 043/325-2121; www.vvvmaastricht.eu) and VVV Meierei & Noordoost-Brabant (& 0900/112-2334; www.vvvdenbosch.nl). Seven weeks before Easter. ABN AMRO World Tennis Tournament, Rotterdam. The world’s top male tennis players converge on the port city for this ATP Tour event. Contact Ahoy (& 0900/ 235-2469; www.ahoy.nl), or go to www. abnamrowtt.nl. February 7 to 13, 2011; similar dates in 2012.

MARCH Windmill Days, Zaanse Schans. All five working windmills (out of eight windmills in total) are open to the public at this recreated old village and open-air museum in the Zanstreek, just north of Amsterdam. Contact Zaans Museum (& 075/681-0000; www. zaansmuseum.nl). March to October.

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The European Fine Art Fair, Maastricht. Top-rated international art and antiques fair at the Maastricht Exhibition and Congress Center (MECC). Dealers from around the world present their finest objects. Contact & 0411/645-090 or www.tefaf.com. March 18 to 27, 2011; similar dates in 2012. Opening of Keukenhof Gardens , Lisse. The greatest flower show on earth blooms with a spectacular display of tulips and narcissi, daffodils and hyacinths, bluebells, crocuses, lilies, amaryllis, and many other flowers at this 32-hectare (79-acre) garden in the heart of the bulb country. There’s said to be nearly eight million flowers. Contact Keukenhof (& 0252/465555; www.keukenhof.nl). March 24 to May 20, 2011; similar dates in 2012.

APRIL Museumweekend. A weekend during which most museums in the Netherlands offer free or reduced admission and have special exhibits. Contact Museumweekend (&020/ 551-2932; www.museumweekend.nl). April 2 and 3, 2011; April 14 and 15, 2012. Bloemencorso van de Bollenstreek (Bulb District Flower Parade). Floats keyed to a different floral theme each year parade from Noordwijk, through Sassenheim, Lisse, and Bennebroek, to Haarlem. Contact Bloemencorso Bollenstreek (& 0252/ 428-237; www.bloemencorso-bollenstreek. nl). April 16, 2011; April 21, 2012.

Koninginnedag (Queen’s Day) . Countrywide celebration honoring the queen’s official birthday, with parades, street fairs, and street entertainment. Throughout Holland, but best in Amsterdam. April 30.

MAY

Bevrijdingsdag (Liberation Day). Commemorates the end of World War II and Holland’s liberation from Nazi occupation. Throughout the country, but best in Amsterdam. May 5. National Windmill Days. Around twothirds of the country’s almost 1,000 working windmills spin their sails and are open to the public. Contact De Hollandsche Molen (& 020/623-8703; www.molens. nl). Second weekend in May: May 14–15, 2011; May 12–13, 2012. Holland Festival, Amsterdam, The Hague, Rotterdam, and Utrecht. Every year, these four cities join forces to present a cultural buffet of music, opera, theater, film, and dance. The schedule includes all the major Dutch companies and visiting companies and soloists. Contact Holland Festival (& 020/788-2100; www.hollandfestival. nl). Throughout June. Vlaggetjesdag (Flag Day), Scheveningen. The fishing fleet opens the herring season with a race to bring the first Hollandse Nieuwe herring back to port (the first barrel is auctioned for charity). Contact Stichting Vlaggetjesdag Scheveningen (& 070/ 345-3267; www.vlaggetjesdag.com). June 11, 2011 (unconfirmed, due to a possible conflict of events; check website); June 9, 2012. Fietselfstedentocht (11 Cities Bicycle Tour), Friesland. The bicycling version of the Elfstedentocht ice-skating race through Friesland province (see introduction to the “Holland Calendar of Events,” above), is based on the idea that roads and bikes are more reliable than frozen canals and skates. Contact Friese Elfsteden Rijwieltocht

Amsterdam Roots Festival, various venues. This festival features music and dance from around the world, along with workshops, films, and exhibits. One part is the open-air Oosterpark Festival, a multicultural feast of song and dance held at Oosterpark in Amsterdam-Oost (East). Contact Amsterdam Roots Festival (& 020/531-8181; www.amsterdamroots.nl). June 16 to June 19, 2011; similar dates in 2012. Open Gardens Days. If you wonder what the fancy gardens behind the gables of some of Amsterdam’s houses-turnedmuseums look like, this is your chance to find out. Some of the best are open to the public for 3 days. Contact Grachten Musea (& 020/320-3660; www.grachtenmusea. nl). Third week in June.

JULY Over Het IJ Festival. Performers stage avant-garde theater, music, and dance in Amsterdam-Noord, beside the IJ channel, at the old NDSM Wharf, TT Neveritaweg 15. Contact Over Het IJ Festival (&010/4159666; www.overhetij.nl). July 7 to July 17, 2011; July 5 to July 15, 2012 North Sea Jazz Festival , Ahoy, Rotterdam. One of the world’s leading gatherings of top international jazz and blues musicians unfolds over 3 concert-packed days at the city’s giant Ahoy venue. Lastminute tickets are scarce, so book as far ahead as possible. Contact North Sea Jazz Festival (&015/214-8393; www.northsea jazz.com). July 8 to 10, 2011; similar dates in 2012.

Holland Calendar of Events

JUNE

Oerol. Open-air performances by international theater companies on the island of Terschelling. Contact Oerol (&0562/448448; www.oerol.nl). June 17 to 26, 2011; June 15 to 24, 2012.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HOLLAND

Herdenkingsdag (Memorial Day). Countrywide observance for victims of World War II, principally marked by 2 minutes of silence at 8pm. May 4.

(&0515/573-263; www.11steden.nl). June 13, 2011; similar date in 2012.

Skûtsjesilen, the Frisian Lakes and the IJsselmeer. Sailing races feature skûtsjes, traditional Frisian sailing ships. Go to the websites of Fryslân Marketing (www. beleeffriesland.nl) and Sintrale Kommisje Skûtsjesilen (www.skutsjesilen.nl). July 30 to August 8, 2011; similar dates in 2012.

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AUGUST

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HOLLAND

Holland Calendar of Events

Amsterdam Gay Pride . This is a big event in Europe’s most gay-friendly city. A crowd of as many as 150,000 people turns out to watch the Boat Parade’s display of 100 or so outrageously decorated boats cruising the canals. In addition, there are street discos, open-air theater, a sports program, and a film festival. Contact Amsterdam Gay Pride (www.amsterdam gaypride.nl). August 4 to 7, 2011 (Canal Parade Aug 7); similar dates in 2012. Grachten Festival (Canal Festival) .A 5-day festival of classical music, on a different theme each year, plays at intimate and elegant venues along the city’s canals and at the Muiziekgebouw aan ’t IJ. There’s always a performance or two for children. The festival culminates in the exuberant Prinsengracht Concert, which plays on a pontoon in front of the Hotel Pulitzer. Contact Stichting Grachtenfestival (& 020/ 421-4542; www.grachtenfestival.nl). August 13 to 21, 2011; similar dates in 2012. Festival Oude Muziek (Festival of Early Music), Utrecht. Concerts of music from the Middle Ages to the Romantic era. Contact Organisatie Oude Muziek (& 030/2329000; www.oudemuziek.nl). August 26 to September 4, 2011; similar dates in 2012. Uitmarkt. Amsterdam previews its cultural season with this open market of information and free performances at outdoor venues, theaters, and concert halls. The shows run the gamut of music, opera, dance, theater, and cabaret. Go to the website of Uitmarkt (www.uitmarkt.nl). Usually the last weekend in August, but dates are not confirmed until the preceding March.

SEPTEMBER Open Monumentendag (Open Monument Day). A chance to see historic buildings and monuments around the country that usually are not open to the public, and to get in free. Contact Vereniging Open Monumentendag (& 020/422-2118; www. openmonumentendag.nl). Second Saturday and Sunday: September 12 and 13, 2011; September 11 and 12, 2012.

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State Opening of Parliament , The Hague. On Prinsjesdag (Princes’ Day), Queen Beatrix rides in a splendid gold coach to the Knights’ Hall in the Hague to open the legislative session by delivering the Speech from the Throne. Contact VVV Den Haag (& 070/361-8860; www.den haag.nl). Third Tuesday in September: September 20, 2011; September 18, 2012.

OCTOBER Leidens Ontzet (Relief of Leiden). Procession commemorating the anniversary of the raising of the 1574 Spanish siege of Leiden. Haring en witte brood (herring and white bread) are distributed, just as the piratelike band of “Sea Beggars” did after helping drive the Spaniards away. Contact VVV Leiden (& 071/516-6000; www.vvv leiden.nl). October 3 (Oct 4 when the 3rd is a Sun). Leather Pride is a growing happening of parties and other events for gays who are into a leather lifestyle. Contact Leather Pride Nederland (&020/422-3737; www. get-ruff.com). Last weekend (Thurs–Sun) of October.

NOVEMBER Horti Fair, Amsterdam. The largest exhibit of flowers, plants, and accessories in the Netherlands takes place at the RAI convention center. Contact Horti Fair (& 0297/ 344-033; www.hortifair.nl). November 1 to 4, 2011; similar dates in 2012. Crossing Border, The Hague. Literature, poetry, and music are combined in this 5-day festival. Contact Crossing Border (& 070/346-2355; www.crossingborder. nl). Mid-November. Sinterklaas Arrives. Holland’s Santa Claus (St. Nicholas) launches the Christmas season when he arrives in Holland from Spain, accompanied by black-painted assistants, called Zwarte Piet (Black Peter), who hand out candy to kids. During the next 2 weeks, he makes his way to towns across the land. Contact local tourist offices. Third Saturday in November: November 19, 2011; November 17, 2012. He arrives the next day in Amsterdam.

Shopping Around for a Tax Break

DECEMBER

Sinterklaas. St. Nicholas’s Eve is the traditional day in Holland for exchanging Christmas gifts. Join some Dutch friends or a Dutch family if possible. December 5. Gouda bij Kaarslicht (Gouda by Candle. In the evening, all the electric light) lights are turned off around the Markt, and Gouda’s main square, the 15th-century town hall, and a giant Christmas tree are all lit up by 1,500 candles. Contact VVV Gouda (& 0900/468-3288; www.vvvgouda.nl). Second Tuesday in December.

Getting There & Getting Around

Winterland Maastricht. For the city’s annual Christmas Market, stands selling seasonal trinkets, traditional craft items, and food and drink, alongside a nativity crib with live animals and an ice-skating rink, are all set up on the beautiful Vrijthof square. Every day there are performances by choirs and traditional bands, and Father Christmas hands out presents for the children. Contact VVV Maastricht (& 043/325-2121; www.vvvmaastricht.eu). Throughout the month, daily from 10am to 10pm.

to Customs. They’ll stamp the check, and you can get the refund in cash or paid to your credit card at a Refund Office. Schiphol Airport has two such locations: Global Refund in Departures Lounge 3, and ABN-AMRO in Departures Lounge 2. A Europe-wide list of refund offices, and more information on tax-free shopping, are available from Global Refund (&421-232/111-111; www.globalrefund. com). Local toll-free phone numbers and an e-mail address for inquiries can be found on the website. For a cut of your savings, VATfree.nl (&084/836-7640) will handle the bureaucratic details.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HOLLAND

If you live outside the European Union (E.U.), you’re entitled to a refund of part of the value-added tax (BTW/omzetbelasting) on goods purchased in the Netherlands for personal use and totaling 50€ or more per shop in a day. Savings of up to 18% of the purchase price can be garnered. Your purchases need to be made at a store that subscribes to the refund system, identified by a TAX FREE sticker, and exported in your hand baggage or checked baggage. To obtain the refund, ask the store for a refund cheque (or check). When you leave the E.U., present this check along with your purchases and receipts

GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND Getting There All intercontinental and virtually all intra-European flights to Holland arrive at Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport. A few short-haul services fly to Rotterdam, Eindhoven, Maastricht, Groningen, and Enschede. Car ferries sail from Britain to the Dutch ports of IJmuiden, Rotterdam Europoort, and Hoek van Holland (Hook of Holland). High-speed trains zip in from Paris, Brussels, Cologne, and Düsseldorf to Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and The Hague, and “ordinary” international trains arrive from around Europe. Eurolines operates bus service from many European cities, and there are multiple expressways/motorways from Belgium and Germany. For more details, see “Getting There & Around,” in chapter 3. 261

Getting Around

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HOLLAND

Getting There & Getting Around

Holland is a great place for sightseeing because it’s so compact. Whether you choose to drive or use the excellent Dutch public transportation, getting around is relatively easy. Roads and expressways are excellent, and the rail network is one of Europe’s finest. Schedule and fare information about travel by train and other public transportation (openbaar vervoer) in the Netherlands is available by calling &0900/9292, or visiting www.9292ov.nl. For international trains, call &0900/9296.

CARDS & FARES From 2011, or thereabouts, all public transportation in the Netherlands should be using an electronic stored-value card called the OV-chipkaart. This card replaces the old system of tickets, “strip cards,” and fare zones. “OV” are the initials for openbaar vervoer, which is Dutch for public transportation. Three main types of OVchipkaart are available: reloadable “personal” cards that can be used only by their pictured owner; reloadable “anonymous” cards that can be used by anyone; and nonreloadable “throwaway” cards. The personal and anonymous cards, both valid for 5 years, cost 7.50€ and can be loaded and reloaded with up to 30€. Throwaway cards, which are likely to be the card of choice for short-term visitors, cost 2.50€ for one ride and 4.80€ for two rides. Electronic readers on Metro and train station platforms, and onboard trams and buses, deduct the correct fare; just hold your card up against the reader at both the start and the end of the ride. Reduced-rate cards are available for seniors and children 4 to 11; children 3 and under ride free. Purchase cards from the local transit company’s offices and ticket booths in the big cities, from Netherlands Railways booths in train stations, from automats at Metro and train stations, and from automats onboard some trams. Not every kind of card is available from each of these sources. Note that the cards are valid throughout the Netherlands, no matter where you purchase them.

BY TRAIN All major tourist destinations in Holland are within 21⁄2 hours of Amsterdam via Nederlandse Spoorwegen/NS (&0900/9292; www.ns.nl), Holland’s national rail system. Generally clean and on time, Netherlands Railways trains are a good way to travel with the Dutch, who use them even for short journeys to the next town up the line. In addition to Amsterdam, other destinations easily reached by train for anyone arriving at Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport include The Hague (35 min.), Rotterdam (27 min. by high-speed Fyra train, and 45 min. by ordinary InterCity train), and Utrecht (33 min.). An improved Thalys and a new Fyra high-speed train service, operating on a highspeed rail line that entered service in 2009, has significantly reduced the travel time

One Day at a Time A better bet than the OV-chipkaart for short-term visitors who plan to use public transportation a lot may be the 1-day or multi-day cards issued by many local public transportation

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authorities, including those in Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and The Hague. With these cards, you pay only once and you can hog trams, buses, and Metro trains all day long if you want to.

Most regional service is slow because buses stop at so many places en route, and you may have to change at an intermediate town or city on the way. Traveling by train is faster, but it is possible to travel long distances using the bus, and most regional bus companies have express lines between important destinations. Regional and intercity bus service is operated by Connexxion (&0900/266-6399; www.connexxion.nl); Arriva (& 0900/202-2022; www.arriva.nl); Veolia (& 088/076-1000; www. veolia-transport.nl); and Qbuzz (&0900/728-9965; www.qbuzz.nl).

BY CAR Driving in Holland is easy—except in the cities and towns where traffic congestion can be ulcer-inducing. Outside of these, snelwegen (expressways/motorways) and local roads are excellent; they’re well planned (as you’d expect from the efficient Dutch), well maintained, and well signposted. However, they are often jam-packed with traffic, particularly during the twice-daily rush hours, so avoid these times if possible. Surprisingly enough, the biggest problem on the roads is other drivers: Many Dutch cast off their usual social skills and conscience when they get behind the wheel of a vehicle and become as bad tempered, erratic, and downright dangerous as, well, as the Belgians, whose roadway recklessness is infamous. In all the big cities—not just Amsterdam, The Hague, and Rotterdam—tight restrictions on parking and vigorous enforcement of the rules make using public transportation a better option than going by car. RENTALS Rental cars are available from Avis (&800/331-2112 in the U.S., or &0900/235-2847 in Holland; www.avis.nl); Budget (&0900/1576; www.budget. nl); Europcar (&0900/0540; www.europcar.nl); and Hertz (&800/654-3001

Getting There & Getting Around

BY BUS

12 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HOLLAND

between Paris, Brussels, Rotterdam, The Hague, and Amsterdam. Fast InterCity trains and the slow stoptrein (stop train) handle the rail network’s bread-and-butter services. Dutch trains run so often that you can just go to the station and wait for the next one—your wait will be short. At even the smallest stations, there is half-hour service in both directions, and major destination points have between four and eight trains an hour in both directions. Service begins as early as 5am (slightly later on Sun and holidays) and runs until around 1am. A special night-train service operates between Utrecht and Rotterdam, via Amsterdam, Schiphol, Leiden, and The Hague. If all or most of your travel will be by rail, consider purchasing a discounted weekendretour (weekend round-trip) ticket, or a dagkaart (day card) or 5-dagkaart (5-day card). The two card options have “OV” variants that permit the use of other public transportation modes, such as the tram, bus, and Metro, for an additional charge. A 1-day Railrunner unlimited travel pass can be purchased for children 4 to 11 (up to a maximum three children per adult 20 and older) for 2.50€ per child (children 3 and under ride free). These various tickets and cards can be purchased only from train stations in Holland. You can get most tickets from in-station automats (ticket machines); tickets purchased from the station ticket counters cost 0.50€ per ticket over the automat price. Note: Tickets cannot be purchased onboard Dutch trains. The fine for riding a train without a valid ticket is 35€, plus the fare.

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PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HOLLAND

Getting There & Getting Around

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in the U.S., or &020/201-3512 in Holland; www.hertz.nl). All four companies have desks at Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport, and rental offices (or agencies) in Rotterdam, The Hague, Utrecht, Maastricht, and other towns and cities. Rates begin at around 50€ a day for a no-frills, subcompact auto with a stick shift and unlimited mileage. You pay as much as 200€ a day for a fully equipped luxury car like a BMW. DRIVING RULES To drive in the Netherlands, you need only a valid passport, a driver’s license, and registration for the car you drive. The minimum age for drivers is 18. The speed limit is 120kmph (75 mph) on expressways, 100kmph (62 mph) on some marked stretches of expressway near cities, 50kmph (31 mph) in cities and urban areas, and 80kmph (50 mph) in the outskirts of towns and cities. Lower limits might be posted. Traffic approaching from the right has the right of way, unless the road you are on has signposts with an orange diamond. Pedestrians on the crosswalks always have the right of way. Watch out for bicycle riders, who are vulnerable road users but don’t always act like it. ROAD MAPS Adequate road maps for Holland and street maps for major cities are available from local VVV tourist information offices. Road maps are published by the ANWB and KNAC motoring organizations, and by various private concerns— among them the excellent Michelin map nos. 210 and 211, which cover the country and are available from bookstores and some news vendors. BREAKDOWNS/ASSISTANCE If you’re a member of a national automobile club, like the American Automobile Association, you’re automatically entitled to the services of ANWB. This organization sponsors a fleet of yellow Wegenwacht vans (& 088/269-2888; www.anwb.nl), a sort of repair shop on wheels that you see patrolling the highways. There are special yellow call boxes on all major roads to bring them to your assistance. Emergency call boxes marked politie will bring the police.

BY PLANE Holland is too small to permit financially viable scheduled air service between the airports of Amsterdam Schiphol, Rotterdam The Hague, Eindhoven, Maastricht Aachen, Groningen, and Enschede, and there is no such service. In any case, you get around quicker by train or car.

BY BICYCLE Holland has 16 million people and 11 million bicycles. To fully engage in the Dutch experience, you must climb aboard a pedal-bike and head out into the wide green yonder. Local tourist offices have marked out many biking tour routes and publish descriptive booklets and maps. Biking in Holland is safe, easy, and pleasant. Almost all roads have designated bike paths, often separated from the road by a screen of trees or bushes, and there are separate traffic lights and signs for bikes. (Mopeds, called brommers in Holland, and motor scooters also use the bicycle paths.) An unpleasant surprise for those who think an absence of hills makes for easy riding is that in a totally flat landscape, nothing blocks the wind—which is great when the wind is behind you, but not so great when it’s blowing in your face. Netherlands Railways (& 0900/9292; www.ns.nl) has some handy arrangements for bicycles. You can rent bikes from many train stations around the country and drop them off at another station.

BY BOAT

12 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO HOLLAND

With all the water in its seas, lakes, rivers, and canals, it’s no surprise that Holland has plenty of waterborne transportation. The most visible indicators of this are the many boat tour options available in and from cities like Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Arnhem, and Maastricht—to name just a few. To these you can add slow harbor ferries and fast jetfoil and jet-catamaran services in and around Amsterdam and Rotterdam. In addition, there are car-ferry or passengers-only ferry services to the Wadden Sea islands of Texel, Vlieland, Terschelling, Ameland, and Schiermonnikoog; across the Westerschelde between Vlissingen and Breskens; and on the big lake near Amsterdam known as the IJsselmeer. Multiple tiny ferries—many of them little more than pontoons—shuttle back and forth at points where there is no bridge along rivers like the Maas, Waal, Neder Rijn, IJssel, and Amstel. Many of these options are detailed in the destination chapters.

Getting There & Getting Around

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AMSTERDAM

asygoing and prosperous, the Dutch capital is the natural focus of a visit to the Netherlands. The historic center—a graceful cityscape of waterways, bridges,

and venerable town houses—recalls Amsterdam’s 17th-century

Golden Age as the command post of a vast trading network and colonial empire, when wealthy merchants constructed gabled residences along neatly laid-out canals.

A delicious irony is that some of the placid old structures now host brothels, smoke shops, and extravagant nightlife. The city’s inhabitants, heirs to a live-and-let-live attitude, which is based on pragmatism as much as a long history of tolerance, aim to control what they cannot effectively outlaw. They permit licensed prostitution in the Rosse Buurt (Red Light District) and the sale of hashish and marijuana in designated “coffeeshops.” Tolerance may have been a long-term tradition, but recent years have seen growing tensions between some Dutch and some members of ethnic minorities in Amsterdam, where migrants and their descendants and foreign residents now outnumber native locals. And both the coffeeshops and the red-light haunts have been under pressure as the city works to improve its quality of life and reduce the negative values in its portfolio; see p.21 in chapter 2 for more details. In any case, don’t think Amsterdammers drift around town in a druginduced haze. They are too busy zipping around on bikes, in-line skating through Vondelpark, eating ethnic dishes, or simply watching the parade of street life from a sidewalk cafe. Small entrepreneurs have revitalized old neighborhoods like the Jordaan, turning distinctive houses into offbeat stores and bustling cafes, hotels, and restaurants. Meantime, the city government and big entrepreneurs have been redeveloping the old harbor waterfront along the IJ waterway in a shiny, modern style that’s a long way from the spirit of Old Amsterdam. Between dips into Amsterdam’s artistic and historical treasures, be sure to take time to absorb the freewheeling spirit of Europe’s most vibrant city.

ORIENTATION Arriving BY PLANE For details on air travel to Amsterdam, see chapters 3 and 12. The country’s main international airport is Amsterdam Airport Schiphol

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(& 0900/0141 from inside Holland, or 31-20/794-0800 from outside, for both general and flight information; www.schiphol.nl), 13km (8 miles) southwest of the center city. After you deplane, moving sidewalks will take you to the main terminal building, where you pass through Passport Control, Baggage Reclaim, and Customs, into Schiphol Plaza. Tourist information is available from the Holland Tourist Information desk (daily 7am–10pm) in Schiphol Plaza. Impressions Trains depart from Schiphol station, downstairs from Schiphol Plaza, for While Amsterdam may box your Puritan Amsterdam’s Centraal Station. Deparears, this great, historic city is an experitures range from one per hour at night ment in freedom. to six per hour at peak times. The one—ABCNews.com, 2000 way fare to Centraal Station is 3.70€ in second class and 6.30€ in first class; the trip takes around 20 minutes. The Connexxion Hotel Shuttle (&038/339-4741; www.schipholhotelshuttle. nl) runs daily every 10 to 30 minutes from 6am to 9pm, between the airport and about 100 Amsterdam hotels. No reservations are needed, and buses depart from in front of Schiphol Plaza. Buy tickets from the Connexxion desk inside Schiphol Plaza or onboard from the driver. The fare is 15€ one-way and 25€ round-trip; children 4 to 14 pay half the adult fare. Taxis from the airport are operated by Schiphol Taxi (& 0900/900-6666; www.schipholtaxi.nl). They are metered and charge around 40€ to the center of Amsterdam.

BY TRAIN For details on traveling to Holland by train, see chapters 3 and 12. Trains arrive in Amsterdam at Centraal Station, on an artificial island on the IJ waterway. Centraal Station is the point of origin for most city trams (streetcars) and Metro trains, and a departure point for taxis, canalboat tours, passenger ferries, water taxis, the Canal Bus, and the Museum Quarter Line boats. It houses an office of Amsterdam Tourist Information (a second office is outside on Stationsplein) and a GWK Travelex currency-exchange office. Schedule and fare details on rail travel in Holland are available from the information office inside the station; information is also available by dialing & 0900/9292, or visiting www.9292ov.nl. Call & 0900/9296 for international trains. Each of these phone services costs 0.70€ per minute. Tram stops are on either side of the main station exit. A taxi stand is in front of the station. (For details on transportation within the city, see “Getting Around,” below.)

BY BUS International buses arrive at Amstel bus station, outside Amstel rail station (Metro: Amstel). From here, there are Metro connections to Centraal Station. For the Leidseplein area, take the Metro toward Centraal Station and get out at the Weesperplein station; then go aboveground to take tram no. 7 or 10.

BY CAR European expressways E19, E35, E231, and E22 reach Amsterdam from Belgium and/or Germany. 267

Amsterdam by the Numbers Amsterdam has a population of 750,000. The Old City, inside the arc of the Singelgracht canal, covers an area of 8 sq. km (3 sq. miles), containing 44,000 dwellings that house 80,000 people. The residents share this central space with 8,000 historical

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Orientation

monuments, 2,000 stores, 1,500 cafes and restaurants, and 200 hotels. Every working day, more than two-thirds of a million people pour into the center city by public transportation, bicycle, and car.

Visitor Information Amsterdam’s tourist information organization is the Amsterdam Tourism & Convention Board, P.O. Box 3901, 1001 AS Amsterdam (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; &0900/ 400-4040, or 31-20/551-2525 from outside the Netherlands; fax 020/201-8850; www.iamsterdam.nl). This organization operates two Amsterdam Tourist Information offices: one on platform 2B inside Centraal Station, open Monday to Wednesday from 9am to 8pm, Thursday to Saturday from 8am to 8pm, and Sunday and holidays from 9am to 6pm; and one in front of the station, at Stationsplein 10, open daily 8am to 9pm (tram for both: 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25, or 26). The 0900 phone number costs 0.40€ a minute. Calls made from outside the Netherlands are at the usual international rate. Amsterdam Tourist Information can help you with almost any question about the city. It also provides brochures, maps, and the like, and reserves hotel rooms. Pick up a copy of Time Out Amsterdam Day for 2.95€. This monthly magazine is full of details about the month’s art exhibits, concerts, and theater performances, and lists restaurants, bars, dance clubs, and more.

City Layout Amsterdam’s center is small enough that its residents think of it as a village. Finding your way around can be confusing, however, until you get the hang of it. The concentric rings of major canals are the center city’s defining characteristic, along with several important squares that act as focal points. The city has 160 canals—more than Venice—with a combined length of 76km (47 miles), spanned by 1,281 bridges. The best-known canals are those of the 17th-century Grachtengordel (Canal Belt, or Canal Ring): Herengracht, Prinsengracht, and Keizersgracht. To these three, UNESCO in 2010 added the 15th-century Singel when it inscribed the Grachtengordel on the list of World Heritage Sites. A map is essential. You need to know that in Dutch -straat means “street,” -gracht means “canal,” -plein means “square,” -markt means market or market square, -dijk means dike, and -laan means “boulevard.” All of these are used as suffixes attached directly to the name of the thoroughfare (for example, Princes’ Canal becomes Prinsengracht). STREET MAPS The most cost-effective map is Amsterdam Tourism & Congress Bureau’s Amsterdam City Map, available from VVV Amsterdam offices for 2€. It shows every street and canal, tram routes and stops, museums and churches, and more. It goes about as far out as the ring road. For even more detailed coverage of the entire city and suburbs, buy the Falk Amsterdam City Map for 9.95€. 268

Neighborhoods in Brief The city of Amsterdam can be divided into six major neighborhoods and five lesser outlying districts. inhabitants are alive and well, and show no Centrum (Old Center) The oldest part of sign of succumbing to the gentrification the city, around the Dam and Centraal Stagoing on around them. tion, includes the major downtown shopping areas and such attractions as the Museum District & Vondelpark A gracious Royal Palace, the Amsterdam Historical residential area surrounds three major Museum, and the canalboat piers. museums: the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh

Leidseplein The city’s most happening nightlife square and its surroundings are a trove of performance venues, movie theaters, restaurants, bars, cafes, and hotels. Rembrandtplein Like Leidseplein, but on a reduced scale, this lively square is home to hotels, restaurants, cafes, and nightlife venues. Jordaan This nest of small streets and canals is west of the center city, outside the major canals. Once a working-class neighborhood, it has become a fashionable residential area with a slew of upscale boutiques and restaurants. Its indigenous

Amsterdam-Zuid (South) This very prestigious 20th-century residential area is the site of a number of hotels, particularly along Apollolaan, a boulevard the locals have dubbed the “Gold Coast” for its wealthy inhabitants and stately mansions. Amsterdam-Oost (East) In this residential area on the far bank of the Amstel River, you’ll find the maritime and tropical museums, and Artis, the local zoo.

Getting Around

Grachtengordel (Canal Belt) The semicircular, multistrand necklace of waterways constructed during the 17th century includes elegant gabled houses, many restaurants, antiques stores, and small hotels, plus such sightseeing attractions as the Anne Frankhuis and the canal-house museums.

Museum, and the modern-art Stedelijk Museum. The area includes Vondelpark, the Concertgebouw concert hall, many restaurants and small hotels, and Amsterdam’s most elegant shopping streets, Pieter Cornelisz Hooftstraat and Van Baerlestraat.

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Het IJ (the Waterfront) Centered on Centraal Station and stretching east and west along both banks of the IJ channel, this fast-redeveloping area covers the artificial islands, warehouses, and installations of Amsterdam’s old harbor (the new harbor lies west of the city).

Amsterdam-West The district west of the Singelgracht covers a lot of ground but doesn’t have much to recommend in the way of sights. Amsterdam-Noord (North) Across the IJ channel from Centraal Station, Noord has up until now been a largely uninteresting “dormitory” district. That’s beginning to change, but for now most of the interesting developments in this area are along what used to be the old harbor, and these are featured under the “Waterfront” heading.

GETTING AROUND When you look at a map of Amsterdam, you may think the city is too large to explore on foot. This isn’t true: It’s possible to see almost every important sight on a 4-hour walk, and most people should be able to cover the center city on foot, though not all at once. Be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes, since those charming cobbles can get under your soles and on your nerves. When crossing the street, watch out for trams and bicycles; be particularly careful when crossing bike lanes.

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By Public Transportation

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Getting Around

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From 2011, or thereabouts, all public transportation in the Netherlands should be using an electronic stored-value card called the OV-chipkaart, which replaces the old system of tickets, “strip cards,” and fare zones. For details about how this card works, see “Getting There & Getting Around,” in chapter 12. In addition, Amsterdam has some details specific to the city. The central information and ticket sales point for GVB Amsterdam, the city’s public transportation company, is GVB Tickets & Info, Stationsplein (&0900/9292; www.gvb.nl), in front of Centraal Station. FARE INFORMATION Purchase cards from the GVB Tickets & Info office, GVB and Netherlands Railways ticket booths in Metro and train stations, automats at Metro and train stations, and automats onboard some trams. Not every kind of card is available from each of these sources. Note that the cards are valid throughout the Netherlands, no matter where you purchase them. A better bet than a standard OV-chipkaart for short-term visitors who plan to use public transportation a lot is a 1-day or a multi-day card issued by the GVB: 24 hours (7.50€), 48 hours (11.50€), 72 hours (15€), 96 hours (18€), 120 hours (23€), 144 hours (26€), and 168 hours (29€). Reduced-rate cards are available for seniors and children 4 to 11; children 3 and under ride free. Should you plan to splash out on a 1-, 2-, or 3-day I amsterdam Card (see “Your Passport to Amsterdam,” later in this chapter), remember that this affords “free” use of public transportation, so don’t purchase additional cards. The same applies if you purchase the All Amsterdam Transport Pass associated with travel on the Canal Bus (see “On the Water,” below). Teams of roving inspectors do their best to keep everyone honest. The fine for riding without a valid card is 38€, plus the fare for the ride, payable on the spot. BY TRAM Half the fun of Amsterdam is walking along the canals. The other half is riding the smooth blue-and-gray trams that roll through most major streets. There are 16 tram routes in the city. Ten of these (lines 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, and 26) begin and end at Centraal Station, and one (line 25) passes through, so you know you can always get back to that central point if you get lost and have to start over. The other tram routes are 3, 7, 10, 12, and 14. Most trams have an access door that opens automatically. Board toward the rear, following arrowed indicators outside the tram that point the way to the door. To board a tram that has no such arrowed indicators, push the button on the outside of the car beside any door. Getting off, you may need to push a button with an open-door graphic or the words deur open. Tram doors close automatically and they do it quite quickly, so don’t dawdle. BY BUS An extensive bus network operated by GVB (see above) complements the trams. Many bus routes begin and end at Centraal Station. It’s generally faster to go by tram, but some points in the city are served only by bus. Regional and intercity bus service from Amsterdam is operated by Connexxion (& 0900/266-6399; www. connexxion.nl) and Arriva (&0900/202-2022; www.arriva.nl). BY METRO Four lines—50, 51, 53, and 54—run partly overground and bring people in from the suburbs, but from Centraal Station you can use Metro trains to reach both Nieuwmarkt and Waterlooplein in the central zone. You may want to take

them simply as a sightseeing excursion, though few of the sights on the lines are worth going out of your way for. BY TRAIN The rail network is not as useful within Amsterdam as are the tram, bus, and Metro—but sensitive souls might like that they can ride in a first-class car or compartment. In addition to the Centraal Station hub, there are seven train stations in the city: Zuid, RAI (the city’s main convention center), and Amstel in the south; Muiderpoort in the east; and Lelylaan, De Vlugtlaan, and Sloterdijk in the west. Because the transportation network is tightly integrated, all train stations are served by two or more modes of public transportation.

By Taxi

With all the water in Amsterdam, it makes sense to use it for transportation. As a side benefit, this affords the unique view of the city from the water. BY WATER BUS Two separate services bring you to many of the city’s top museums and other attractions. Canal Bus (&0900/333-4442; www.canal.nl) operates four routes—Green, Red, Blue, and Orange. Passes for adults cost 22€ for 24 hours, 33€ for 48 hours, and 44€ for 72 hours; children 4 to 12 travel for half the adult price, and children 3 and under are free. An All Amsterdam Transport Pass, valid on the Canal Bus, trams, buses, and the Metro, costs 28€ a day and is available from GVB Tickets & Info, VVV tourist information offices, and the Canal Bus company. It’s a good value only if you make extensive use of the Canal Bus and GVB public transportation. The Hop On Hop Off Museum Line (&020/530-1090; www.lovers.nl) operates a scheduled service every 30 to 45 minutes from Centraal Station to Prinsengracht, Leidseplein, Museumplein, Herengracht, the Muziektheater, and the Eastern Dock. A day ticket is 20€ for adults, 10€ for children 4 to 12, and free for children 3 and under. Tickets afford reduced admission to some museums and attractions. BY WATER TAXI Water taxis do more or less the same thing as landlubber taxis, except they do it on the water. To order one, call VIP Watertaxi Amsterdam (&020/535-6363; www.water-taxi.nl), or pick one up from the dock outside Centraal Station (near the VVV office). To and from points in the city center, a water taxi for between one and eight passengers costs 20€ per half-hour; to and from points outside the city center, the rate is 50€ per half-hour. BY FERRY Free ferries for passengers and two-wheel transportation connect the center with Amsterdam-Noord (North), across the IJ channel. These short crossings are ideal microcruises for the cash-strapped; they afford fine views of the harbor. Ferries depart from the Waterplein-West dock on De Ruijterkade, behind Centraal

Getting Around

On the Water

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Officially, you can’t hail a cab from the street, but often taxis will stop if you do. If you’re having trouble, find one of the strategically placed taxi stands sprinkled around the city, or call Taxi Centrale Amsterdam (& 020/777-7777; www.tca-amsterdam.nl). Taxis are metered. TCA’s base fare begins at 7.50€ when the meter starts and, after 2km (11⁄4 miles), runs up at 2.20€ a kilometer, or 3.55€ a mile; after 25km at 1.75€ a kilometer, or 2.80€ a mile; and after 50km at 1.45€ a kilometer, or 2.35€ a mile. This includes service; round it up if you like, or tip for good service, like help with your luggage, or for a helpful discourse.

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bicycling IN AMSTERDAM

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Getting Around

It takes a while to get used to moving smoothly and safely through the whirl of trams, cars, buses, trucks, fellow bikers, and pedestrians, particularly if you’re on a typically ancient and muchbattered stadfiets (city bike), also known as an omafiets (grandmother bike)—the only kind that makes economic sense here, since anything fancier will attract a crowd of people wanting to steal it. It’s better to develop your street smarts slowly.

The first rule: Don’t argue with trams—they bite back, hard. The second rule: Cross tram tracks perpendicularly so your wheels don’t get caught in the grooves, which could pitch you out of the saddle. And the third rule: Don’t crash into civilians (pedestrians). That’s about it. Like everyone else, you’ll likely end up making up the rest of the rules as you go along.

Station. Another ferry goes west to NDSM Island, a 20-minute trip that doesn’t pass any points of particular interest but still affords a decent view of the harbor.

By Bicycle Follow the Dutch example and rent a bicycle—there are more than 550,000 on the streets of Amsterdam to keep you company. Bike-rental rates are around 12€ per day or 50€ per week; a deposit of around 50€ or a credit card authorization is required. MacBike (& 020/620-0985; www.macbike.nl) rents a range of bikes, including tandems and six-speeds. The company has rental outlets at: Stationsplein 5 (tram: 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25, or 26), Centraal Station; Waterlooplein 199 (tram: 9 or 14); and Weteringschans 2 (tram: 1, 2, 5, 7, or 10), at Leidseplein. Bike City, Bloemgracht 68–70 (&020/626-3721; www.bikecity.nl; tram: 13, 14, or 17), near the Anne Frankhuis, is another good choice. Damstraat Rent-a-Bike, Damstraat 20–22 (&020/625-5029; www.bikes.nl; tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25), is centrally located near the Dam. Feminists both male and female might want to give their business to Zijwind Fietsen, a women’s cooperative, at Scheldestraat 168 (&020/6737026; www.zijwind.com; tram: 25), though it’s a bit out from the Center. Warning: Bicycle theft is common. Always lock both your bike frame and one of the wheels to something solid and fixed.

By Car Don’t rent a car to get around Amsterdam. You’ll regret both the expense and the hassle. The city is a jumble of one-way streets, narrow bridges, and no-parking zones, and street parking is hard to come by. Parking fees are expensive. Street parking in the city center costs 3€ to 5€ an hour, depending on time and location, payable at nearby automats; if you’re staying longer than 6 hours, it’s more economical to buy a day ticket (also available from automats). Reduced-rate permits are available from many hotels. The cost of transgression is high: 51€ plus an hour’s parking charge, payable within 48 hours. If the parking operatives think your car constitutes enough of an obstacle, they tow your car to the Cition car-pound at Daniël Goedkoopstraat 7–9 (&14-020 for information, or 020/251-3737 for reception; www.cition.nl; Metro: Spaklerweg), open 24 hours a day, way out in the boonies of the southeastern Over-Amstel district, 272

and they charge you 58€ for every 24-hour period (or portion thereof) that it’s out there, plus the towing charge. You pay parking fines at the car-pound office, or at a second office, De Clercqstraat 42–44 (tram: 3, 13, or 14). Outside the city, driving is a different story, and you may want to rent a car to tour the nearby countryside. RENTALS See “Getting There & Getting Around,” in chapter 12, for details.

AMSTERDAM Airport See “Orientation,” earlier in this chapter. Area Code Amsterdam’s

Koningslaan 44 (&020/6764343; www.britain.nl; tram: 2).

Business Hours See “Fast Facts: Holland,” in chapter 21. Thursday is koopavond (late shopping evening) in Amsterdam, when many stores stay open to 9pm.

with emergency service are the Onze-LieveVrouwe Gasthuis, Oosterpark 9 (& 020/599-9111; www.olvg.nl; tram: 3, 7, or 10), in Amsterdam Oost (East); and the Academisch Medisch Centrum (AMC), Meibergdreef 9 (& 020/566-9111; www. amc.uva.nl; Metro: Holendrecht), in Amsterdam-Zuidoost (Southeast).

Doctors & Dentists For urgent but nonemergency medical care, and for urgent dental care, call the Central Doctors Service (& 020/592-3434).

Embassies & Consulates For embassies of English-speaking countries in The Hague, see “Fast Facts: Holland,” in chapter 21. In Amsterdam, the consulate of the United States is at Museumplein 19 (& 020/575-5309; http:// amsterdam.usconsulate. gov; tram: 3, 5, 12, or 16); the consulate of the United Kingdom is at

Hospitals Two hospitals

Internet Access Many hotels, coffeehouses (note that this generally doesn’t mean pot-selling “coffeeshops”), and other businesses offer Internet access. Dedicated cybercafes have virtually disappeared from the Amsterdam scene. Mail Most offices of TNT Post (& 076/527-2727; www.tntpost.nl) are open

Newspapers & Magazines English-language newspapers and magazines are available from the American Book Center, Spui 12 (& 020/625-5537; www.abc.nl; tram: 1, 2, or 5), and Waterstone’s, Kalverstraat 152 (& 020/6383821; tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25). Newsstands at Schiphol Airport and Centraal Station stock many international publications.

Fast Facts: Amsterdam

Emergencies For police assistance, an ambulance, or the fire department, call & 112. For routine police matters, visit a district police office—a centrally located one is at Lijnbaansgracht 219 (& 0900/ 8844; tram: 1, 2, 5, 7, or 10), off Leidseplein.

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area code is 020; use this when calling from within the Netherlands but not in Amsterdam. When making local calls in Amsterdam, simply leave off the area code and dial only the phone number. When calling from outside the Netherlands, the area code for Amsterdam is 20.

Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm. The office at Singel 250, at the corner of Raadhuisstraat (tram: 13, 14, or 17), is open Monday to Friday from 7:30am to 6pm, and Saturday from 7:30 to 9:30am. See “Fast Facts: Holland,” in chapter 21, for more info.

Toilets See “Fast Facts: Holland,” in chapter 21. Should you have a toilet emergency in Amsterdam, a comfortable place to find relief is the NH Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky, across the square from the Royal Palace on the Dam. Just breeze in as if you own the “Kras,” swing left past the front desk and along the corridor, pass the Winter Garden restaurant, and then go up a short stairway.

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Safety In Amsterdam, if it

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Where to Stay

isn’t bolted to the floor, somebody will try to steal it—and even if it is bolted to the floor, somebody will try to steal it. Watch out for pickpockets on trams, buses, and the Metro, and in train and Metro stations. Constant public announcements at Centraal Station and Schiphol Airport warn about pickpockets, and signs on the trams say in a multitude of languages ATTENTION: PICKPOCKETS. Consider wearing a money belt. Women should wear their purses crossed over their shoulders so they hang in front, with the clasps or zippers facing in. Violence does happen in Amsterdam, but it’s not a violent city. Drug-related crime is prevalent. Most crime, like pickpocketing, is nonviolent, relatively minor,

and opportunistic. Stolen bicycles are a big problem here! Mugging and armed robbery do happen, though incidents are not common. There are some risky areas, especially in and around the Red Light District. Be leery of walking alone after dark through narrow alleyways and along empty stretches of canal. Don’t use ATMs at night in quiet areas. It’s wise to stay out of Vondelpark at night, but there are cafes on the edge of the park that are busy until closing time. The rules about not walking alone in poorly lit and unpeopled areas at night apply here, especially to women. Although Amsterdam is generally safe, incidents of harassment do occur, and rape isn’t unheard of. Public transportation is usually

busy even late at night, so you generally won’t have to worry about being alone in a tram or Metro train. But if you feel nervous, sit close to the driver when possible. Many local women go around by bicycle at night. Note: Listing some of the possible dangers together like this can give a misleading impression of the threat from crime in Amsterdam. There is no need to be afraid to do the things you want to do. Amsterdammers aren’t afraid. Just remember to exercise the usual rules of caution and observation that apply in any big city. Report any crime committed against you to the police, most of whom speak English. Also see “Crime & Safety,” in chapter 3.

WHERE TO STAY Is your preference old-world charm combined with luxurious quarters? Glitzy modernity with every conceivable amenity? Small family-run hotels? A bare-bones room that frees up scarce cash for other purposes? Amsterdam has all of these, and more. Many hotels offer significant rate reductions between November 1 and March 31, with the exception of the Christmas and New Year periods. The city has many charms in the off season, when the calendar is full of cultural events. Traditional Dutch dishes are offered that aren’t available in warm weather; the streets, cafes, restaurants, and museums are filled more with locals than with visitors. RESERVATIONS Should you arrive without a reservation, VVV Amsterdam tourist offices will help you for 4€, plus a refundable room deposit. They can find you something, even at the busiest periods, but it may not be exactly what, or where, you want. You can reserve ahead of time with the Amsterdam Tourism & Convention Board, P.O. Box 3901, 1001 AS Amsterdam (&020/201-8880; fax 020/201-8850; [emailprotected]; www.iamsterdam.com). Online reservations are free; those made by phone, fax, or e-mail cost 14€, with an additional 14€ to change a reservation.

The Old Center VERY EXPENSIVE In a fully modernized courtly building that since the 15th-century has been a convent, a royal guesthouse, headquarters of the

Sofitel Amsterdam the Grand 274

A Down-to-Earth Warning Elevators are hard to shoehorn into the cramped confines of a 17th-century canal house and cost more than some moderately priced and budget hotels can afford. Many simply don’t have them. If lugging your old wooden sea chest up six flights of steep, narrow

stairs is liable to void your life insurance, you better make sure an elevator is in place and working. Should there be no elevator and you have trouble climbing stairs, ask for a room on a low floor. Or think positively and regard the stairs as your workout for the day.

Where to Stay

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 (off Damstraat), 1012 EX Amsterdam. & 800/515-5679 in the U.S. and Canada, or 020/555-3111. Fax 020/555-3222. www.thegrand.nl. 177 units. 550€–650€ double; from 800€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking 50€. Tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25 to Spui. Amenities: Restaurant; snack bar; lounge; bar; airport transfer; babysitting; concierge; health club & spa; heated indoor pool; room service. Inroom: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

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Amsterdam Admiralty, and the city’s Town Hall, the Grand is grand indeed. To reach the lobby, walk through a courtyard with a fountain, then pass through a brass-andwood revolving door. Sip afternoon tea in the lounge amid Art Deco and stained-glass windows; Oriental rugs grace black-and-white marble floors. Such elegance, and only a few blocks south of the Red Light District. Individually styled and furnished rooms reflect the different phases of the building’s past and are the last word in plush. Views are of 17th-century canals, the garden, or the courtyard. The contemporary French restaurant Bridges sports an abstract expressionist mural, Inquisitive Children (1949), by Cobra-movement artist Karel Appel. This hotel has been awarded a Green Key certificate for environmental awareness and sustainable practices.

EXPENSIVE Die Port van Cleve One of the city’s oldest hotels—it actually started life in 1864 as the first Heineken brewery—stands right across the street from the Royal Palace on the Dam. The ornamental facade, with its turrets and alcoves, is original and has been fully restored. Likewise, the interior was completely renovated a few years back. The guest rooms are relatively small, and in general are furnished in a plain way that doesn’t quite complement the building’s handsome looks. Watch out for noise from the busy (or bustling, if you prefer) street, in rooms at the front—especially in summer, when you may want the windows open due to the absence of airconditioning. You won’t eat much more traditionally Dutch than in the Brasserie de Poort, and you can drink in the Bodega de Blauwe Parade watched over by a feast of Delft blue tiles. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 176–180 (behind the Royal Palace), 1012 SJ Amsterdam. &020/714-2000. Fax 020/714-2001. www.dieportvancleve.com. 121 units. 175€–350€ double; from 425€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. No parking. Tram: 1, 2, 5, 13, or 17 to the Dam. Amenities: Restaurant; bars; babysitting; concierge; executive rooms; room service. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Close to the Dam, this hotel, founded in 1911, has an 18th-century facade. Its guest rooms are super-modern and have thick carpets and ample wardrobe space. Those at the front tend to get more light but are subjected to more street noise; some have balconies. The award-winning in-house De Roode Leeuw restaurant (daily 11am–11:30pm) serves traditional Dutch cuisine, and a glassed-in heated terrace overlooking the Dam is a pleasant and relaxing spot

Hotel Amsterdam-De Roode Leeuw

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for a beer. This hotel has been awarded a Green Key certificate for its environmental awareness and sustainable practices. Damrak 93–94 (beside the Dam), 1012 LP Amsterdam. &020/555-0666. Fax 020/620-4716. www. hotelamsterdam.nl. 79 units. 110€–325€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. No parking. Tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25 to the Dam. Amenities: Restaurant; cafe; room service. Inroom: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet (7.50€/hr., 15€/day), minibar.

MODERATE Named after Amsterdam’s patron saint, this hotel is close to Centraal Station. Heavy tram, bus, and car traffic passing by outside is the downside to an otherwise convenient location. Originally, the building was a factory that manufactured ropes and carpets; it later housed harbor offices. New owners have upgraded the interior to near-boutique status, affording a level of comfort that’s rarely achieved by Amsterdam hotels in this price range. This applies especially if you score a rate at the lower end of a scale that’s skewed upward by the “deluxe doubles”—and, bear in mind, a thin amenities roster. Each room has a different character, with the regular ones emphasizing classic comforts, warm colors, prints, and exposed wood beams; and the deluxe doubles sporting cool blacks, grays, and whites.

Sint Nicolaas

AMSTERDAM

Where to Stay

Spuistraat 1A (at Nieuwendijk), 1012 SP Amsterdam. &020/626-1384. Fax 020/623-0979. www.centre hotels.nl. 27 units. 95€–250€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 1, 2, 5, 13, or 17 to Martelaarsgracht. Amenities: Lounge; bar. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

INEXPENSIVE Maybe too close to the Red Light District for some people’s taste, and on a slightly seedy street, this is a step up from grunge class, with a hang-loose, alternative rep. You might even hear some (pretty fanciful) comparisons with New York’s Chelsea. Local artists have created paintings, photographs, and other works of what you might call art for the hallways and guest rooms. Sparely furnished, the rooms vary in size, holding from two to six beds, and are tolerably clean and well maintained. None have a view worth looking out the window for. Bathrooms are small but have most of the necessary bits and pieces in them, and those rooms that don’t have a bathtub do have a shower. The Belushi’s bar is a fun meeting place, and the nextdoor Winston Kingdom club has daily live music or DJs.

Winston

Warmoesstraat 129 (off Damrak), 1012 JA Amsterdam. &020/623-1380. Fax 020/639-2308. www. winston.nl. 69 units. 69€–136€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. No parking. Tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25 to the Dam. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bikes; Wi-Fi (free). Inroom: TV (some rooms), no phone.

The Waterfront EXPENSIVE Located in the redevelopment zone of the old harbor east of Centraal Station, the Lloyd was an emigrants’ hotel from 1921 to 1935. Each of its rooms has a different shape, style, and modern decor, and with rooms of various classes, the hotel straddles all categories except “Very Expensive.” Its most expensive rooms, which are the largest, have a view of the water or a specially designed interior (or both). The mattresses are firm, but only a few rooms have king-size doubles—one does, however, have a bed that “sleeps” eight. The hotel’s Culturele Ambassade houses art exhibits; modern artworks are scattered around the property; and there’s an attic library. Two restaurants aim to make it cool to dine in a hotel: Snel, fast and

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affordable, is open 24/7; Sloom is leisurely and expensive—order whatever you heart desires, and the kitchen will aim to cook it. Oostelijke Handelskade 34, 1019 BN Amsterdam (at IJhaven). &020/561-3636. Fax 020/561-3600. www.lloydhotel.com. 117 units, 106 with bathroom. 95€ double without bathroom; 140€–450€ double with bathroom. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 25€. Tram: 10 or 26 to Rietlandpark. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; bikes; room service. Inroom: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

INEXPENSIVE

The Canal Belt VERY EXPENSIVE The Asian-influenced decor at this prestigious canal-side boutique hotel is arguably the most stylish in town. Its setting started out as a 17th-century theater (Vivaldi once conducted here, and the serene Dylan Lounge still sports the theater’s original brick floor). All the guest rooms and suites have the usual array of luxury amenities and are individually decorated with different colors and themes. No. 5 is a blue Japanese-style room with a deep soaking tub and traditional sliding screens. Only three rooms have a canal view, so if this is important to you, specify it—and be ready to pay handsomely for the privilege. Style here occasionally trumps substance: the water fountain–style sinks in a few of the rooms look grand, but their design makes them somewhat hard to use. The superlative French restaurant Vinkeles (p.293) draws admirers on its own account.

The Dylan Amsterdam

Where to Stay

NDSM-Pier 3, 1033 RG Amsterdam. &020/626-4247. Fax 020/639-1952. www.amstelbotel.com. 175 units. 69€–94€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited free parking on quay. Boat: NDSM Ferry from Centraal Station. Amenities: Bar; bikes; Internet (in bar, .20€/min.). Inroom: TV.

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Amstel Botel Where better to experience a city on the water than on a boathotel moored permanently to a dock on the IJ waterway northwest of Centraal Station? The Botel is popular largely because of that extra thrill added by sleeping on the water—and modest rates (for Amsterdam) don’t hurt. This retired inland-waterway cruise boat has cabins on four decks connected by an elevator. The bright, modern rooms are no-nonsense but comfortable, and the showers are small. Be sure to ask for a room with a view on the water, to avoid the uninspiring quay. To get here, take the NDSM Ferry for foot passengers and two-wheel transportation from behind Centraal Station to the NDSM dock, and you’ll see it floating in front of you. A free shuttle bus goes between the Botel and the station when the ferry’s not running.

Keizersgracht 384 (at Runstraat). 1016 GB Amsterdam. &020/530-2010. Fax 020/530-2030. www. dylanamsterdam.com. 41 units. 395€–695€ double; from 900€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 1, 2, or 5 to Spui. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; bar; bikes; boat rental; concierge; exercise room; room service. Inroom: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

EXPENSIVE Estheréa If you like to stay at elegant, not-too-big hotels, you’re sure to be pleased by the Estheréa. It’s been owned by the same family since its beginnings and, like many Amsterdam hotels, was built within a group of neighboring 17th-century canal houses. The familial touch shows in attention to detail and a breezy yet professional approach. It has an elevator, a rarity in these old Amsterdam homes. In the 1940s, the proprietors spent a lot of money on wood paneling, crystal chandeliers, and other structural additions; younger family members who took over the management have had the good sense to leave it all in place. Wood bedsteads and dresserdesks lend warmth to the regularly renovated and upgraded guest rooms, which vary 279

considerably in size; a few are quite small. Most rooms accommodate two guests, but some rooms have more beds, which makes them ideal for families. Singel 303–309 (near Spui), 1012 WJ Amsterdam. & 020/624-5146. Fax 020/623-9001. www. estherea.nl. 92 units. 191€–314€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 55€. Tram: 1, 2, or 5 to Spui. Amenities: Lounge; bar; babysitting; concierge; room service. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (10€/24 hr.).

AMSTERDAM

Where to Stay

The Toren With its antique elegance in two side-by-side buildings dating from 1617 on a posh stretch of canal, this relatively small family-run boutique hotel, completely restyled in 2008 by local interior design guru Wim van de Oudeweetering, is justifiably considered one of Amsterdam’s “hidden treasures.” If you’re a devotee of less-is-more design, though, you might feel that it’s more than a tad overdone. The style varies hugely from room to room (which makes a visit before signing up a useful exercise)—a medley of red, gold, and black, from plush Italianate to something that comes perilously close to resembling a classy 19th-century bordello, but with a whirlpool bathtub. There’s no restaurant, but if you have the means to lodge here, you should have no problems picking up the tab for room service from elegant French partner restaurant Christophe (p.292), just around the corner on Leliegracht. Keizersgracht 164 (near Leliegracht), 1015 CZ Amsterdam. & 020/622-6033. Fax 020/626-9705. www.thetoren.nl. 38 units. 180€–275€ double; 350€–400€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, high-speed Internet, minibar, Wi-Fi (16€/day).

MODERATE Agora Old-fashioned friendliness is the keynote at this efficiently run and wellmaintained lodging, a block from the Flower Market. The hotel occupies a canal house built in 1735 that has been fully restored. Furniture from the 1930s and 1940s mixes with fine mahogany antiques. Bouquets greet you as you enter, and a distinctive color scheme creates an effect of peacefulness and drama at the same time. There’s an abundance of overstuffed furniture, and nearly every guest room has a puffy armchair you can sink into after a day of sightseeing. Those with canal views cost the most, but the extra euros are worth it, though the hustle and bustle out on the street can make them somewhat noisy by day. The large family room has three windows overlooking the Singel. Those rooms that don’t have a canal view look out on a pretty garden. There’s no elevator. Singel 462 (at Koningsplein), 1017 AW Amsterdam. &020/627-2200. Fax 020/627-2202. www.hotel agora.nl. 16 units. 75€–159€ double. Add 5% city tax. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 1, 2, or 5 to Koningsplein. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

It takes only a moment to feel at home in the antiqueadorned Wiechmann, a classic, comfortable, casual sort of place. Besides, the location is one of the best you’ll find in this or any price range: 5 minutes in one direction is the Kalverstraat shopping street; 5 minutes in the other, Leidseplein. Most of the guest rooms—all of them nonsmoking—are standard, with good-size twin beds or double beds, and some have big bay windows. Room furnishings are modern. The higher-priced doubles have a view of the Prinsengracht. The breakfast room has hardwood floors, lots of greenery, and white linen cloths on the tables. There’s no elevator.

Amsterdam Wiechmann

Prinsengracht 328–332 (at Looiersgracht), 1016 HX Amsterdam. &020/626-3321. Fax 020/626-8962. www.hotelwiechmann.nl. 37 units. 90€–165€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 1, 2, or 5 to Prinsengracht. Amenities: Lounge; bikes. Inroom: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

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Seven Bridges Proprietors Pierre Keulers and Günter Glaner have made the Seven Bridges, named for its view of seven arched bridges, one of Amsterdam’s canal-house gems. Each room is furnished with antiques from the 17th to the 20th centuries, plush carpets, handmade Italian drapes, hand-painted tiles, wood-tiled floors, and Impressionist art reproductions. The biggest room, a quad on the first landing, has high ceilings, a big mirror over the fireplace, an Empire onyx table, antique leather armchairs, an array of potted plants, and a huge marble-floored bathroom. Attic rooms have sloped ceilings and exposed wood beams, and basement rooms are big and bright. Rooms at the front overlook a canal, and those at the rear overlook a garden. There’s no elevator, and no breakfast room; breakfast is served in room in only 8 of the 11 rooms.

INEXPENSIVE

Where to Stay

Keizershof Owned by the genial de Vries family, this hotel in a four-story canal house from 1672 has just four beamed rooms, named after old Hollywood stars—though a greater claim to fame is that members of the Dutch royal family were regular visitors in its prehotel days. Several other touches make a stay at this nonsmoking hotel memorable: From the street-level entrance, a steep wooden spiral staircase built from a ship’s mast leads to guest rooms—there’s no elevator. There are, however, a television and a grand piano in the cozy lounge. In good weather, take breakfast, which includes excellent omelets and pancakes, in the flower-bedecked courtyard. Because the hotel has so few rooms, you need to book well ahead.

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Reguliersgracht 31 (at Keizersgracht), 1017 LK Amsterdam. & 020/623-1329. Fax 020/624-7652. www.sevenbridgeshotel.nl. 11 units. 90€–250€ double. Rates include full breakfast served in room (in 8 rooms only). AE, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 4 to Keizersgracht. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Keizersgracht 618 (at Nieuwe Spiegelstraat), 1017 ER Amsterdam. & 020/622-2855. Fax 020/6248412. www.hotelkeizershof.nl. 4 units. 90€–105€ double with bathroom; 65€ double without bathroom. Rates include Dutch breakfast. MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 16, 24, or 25 to Keizersgracht. Inroom: Hair dryer, no phone.

Prinsenhof This modernized canal house near the Amstel River offers rooms with beamed ceilings and basic—yet tolerably comfortable—beds. Front rooms look out onto Prinsengracht, where colorful houseboats are moored. Breakfast takes place in an attractive blue-and-white dining room. The proprietors, Rik and André van Houten, take pride in their hotel and will make you feel welcome. There’s no elevator, but a pulley hauls your luggage up and down the stairs. Prinsengracht 810 (at Utrechtsestraat), 1017 JL Amsterdam. & 020/623-1772. Fax 020/638-3368. www.hotelprinsenhof.com. 11 units, 6 with bathroom. 95€ double with bathroom; 65€ double without bathroom. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 4 to Prinsengracht. Inroom: No phone.

Leidseplein EXPENSIVE Eden Amsterdam American One of the most fanciful buildings on Amsterdam’s long list of monuments, this castlelike mix of Venetian Gothic and Art Nouveau has been a prominent landmark and a popular meeting place for Amsterdammers since 1900. While the exterior must always remain an architectural treasure curiosity of turrets, arches, and balconies, the interior (except that of the cafe, which is also protected) is modern and chic. Rooms are subdued and refined, superbly 281

furnished, and gifted with great vistas: Some have a view of the Singelgracht, while others overlook kaleidoscopic Leidseplein. The location, in the thick of the action and near many major attractions, is one of the best in town. Famous Café Americain is one of Europe’s most elegant eateries (p.295). There is also the Bar Americain, which has a closed-in terrace looking out on Leidseplein. Leidsekade 97 (at Leidseplein), 1017 PN Amsterdam. & 020/556-3000. Fax 020/556-3001. www. edenamsterdamamericanhotel.com. 175 units. 130€–290€ double; from 415€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. No parking. Tram: 1, 2, 5, 7, or 10 to Leidseplein. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; electric scooters; exercise room; room service; sauna. Inroom: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet (1€/hr.), minibar.

MODERATE

AMSTERDAM

Where to Stay

Orfeo One of the city’s longest-standing gay lodgings has, for more than 30 years, been providing basic, practical facilities and friendly, helpful service. The front desk is in a cozy and sociable lounge, and there is a marble-floored breakfast room. Only three guest rooms have a full bathroom, some with beamed ceilings; others share a shower and/or toilet. One of the perks is a small in-house Finnish sauna. The largest concentration of center-city restaurants is right at the doorstep. Leidsekruisstraat 12–14 (off Leidseplein), 1017 RH Amsterdam. &020/623-1347. Fax 020/620-2348. www.amsterdamorfeohostel.com. 19 units, 3 with bathroom. 120€–150€ double with bathroom; 55€– 95€ double without bathroom. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 1, 2, or 5 to Prinsengracht. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free). Inroom: TV, minibar.

Rembrandtplein EXPENSIVE NH Schiller An Amsterdam gem from 1912, this fully restored hotel boasts a blend of Art Nouveau and Art Deco in its public spaces that is reflected in tasteful decor and furnishings in the guest rooms. Its sculpted facade, wrought-iron balconies, and stained-glass windows stand out on the often brash Rembrandtplein. The hotel takes its name from the painter Frits Schiller, who built it in 1912, and whose outpourings of artistic expression, in the form of 600 portraits, landscapes, and still lifes, are displayed in the halls, rooms, stairwells, and public areas. Brasserie Schiller is a gracious oak-paneled dining room, and Café Schiller (see “Trendy Cafes,” later in this chapter) is one of Amsterdam’s few permanent sidewalk cafes. This hotel has been awarded a Green Key certificate for its environmental awareness and sustainable practices. Rembrandtplein 26, 1017 CV Amsterdam. &020/554-0700. Fax 020/624-0098. www.nh-hotels.com. 92 units. 95€–203€ double; from 161€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 4, 9, or 14 to Rembrandtplein. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; 2 bars; babysitting; executive rooms; room service. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (11€/24 hr.).

The Jordaan INEXPENSIVE Acacia This hotel faces an unfashionable canal just a block from Prinsengracht, but the friendly couple who run the fully nonsmoking Acacia have worked hard to make it welcoming and clean, and they’re justifiably proud of the result. The simple, well-kept, and comfortable rooms, all of which have canal views, have been equipped with new beds, writing tables, and chairs. The large front-corner rooms, shaped like pie slices, sleep as many as five and have windows on three sides. A couple of studios have tiny kitchenettes. Breakfast is served in a cozy Old Dutch room with windows on two sides. There’s no elevator. 282

Lindengracht 251 (at Lijnbaansgracht), 1015 KH Amsterdam. & 020/622-1460. Fax 020/638-0748. www.hotelacacia.nl. 14 units. 80€–90€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. MC, V (5% charge). Limited street parking. Tram: 3 or 10 to Marnixplein. Inroom: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Van Onna Consisting of three canal houses, the center one dating from 1644, this hotel has grown over the years, but genial owner Loek van Onna continues to keep prices reasonable. Mr. van Onna has lived here since he was a boy and will gladly regale you with tales about the building’s history. Accommodations vary considerably, with the best rooms in the newest building. However, even the oldest, plainest rooms have character, and all are both neatly furnished and clean. Whichever building you wind up in, request a front room overlooking the canal. The hotel is nonsmoking. There’s no elevator.

Museum District & Vondelpark EXPENSIVE

Where to Stay

Bilderberg Hotel Jan Luyken One block from the Van Gogh Museum and from the elegant Pieter Cornelisz Hooftstraat shopping street, this is best described as a small boutique hotel with many of the amenities and facilities of a large one— though without the large guest rooms. Everything is done with perfect attention to detail. The Jan Luyken maintains a balance between its sophisticated lineup of facilities (double sinks and bidets, elevator, lobby bar with fireplace, and meeting rooms for business) and an intimate and personalized approach that’s appropriate to a 19thcentury neighborhood. That residential feel extends to the rooms, which look much more like those in a well-designed home than in a standard hotel.

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Bloemgracht 102–104 and 108 (off Prinsengracht), 1015 TN Amsterdam. & 020/626-5801. www. hotelvanonna.com. 41 units. 90€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. No credit cards. Limited street parking. Tram: 13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt. Inroom: No phone.

Jan Luijkenstraat 58 (near the Rijksmuseum), 1071 CS Amsterdam. &020/573-0730. Fax 020/6763841. www.janluyken.nl. 62 units. 99€–159€ double; from 500€ suite. Add 5% city tax. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 2 or 5 to Hobbemastraat. Amenities: Wine bar; lounge; babysitting; bikes; concierge; room service; spa (small). Inroom: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (17€/24 hr.).

It seems almost a crime of lèse majesté to describe this superb luxury guesthouse-residence, hosted by a devoted couple, as a B&B, though technically that’s what it is. On two floors of an 1893 mansion, a block from the northern edge of Vondelpark’s panhandle, the four spacious suites have chic designer furniture mixed with antiques, and views that look out on similar 19th-century mansions at the front or lush gardens at the rear. Each suite is individually styled, using natural materials as much as possible, a characteristic emphasized by the use of Coco-Mat beds.

Fusion Suites

Roemer Visscherstraat 40 (at Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat), 1054 EZ Amsterdam. &/fax 020/618-4642. www.fusionsuites.com. 4 units. 245€–275€ suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram: 1 to Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat, or 3 or 12 to Overtoom. Inroom: Minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

MODERATE De Filosoof On a quiet street facing Vondelpark, this hotel might be the very place if you fancy yourself something of a philosopher. One of the proprietors, a philosophy professor, has chosen and displayed posters, painted ceilings, framed quotes, and unusual objects to represent philosophical and cultural themes, and the garden is a kind of grove of academe. Each guest room is dedicated to a mental maestro—Aristotle, Plato, Goethe, Wittgenstein, Nietzsche, Marx, and Einstein are 283

among those who get a look in—or are based on motifs like Eros, the Renaissance, astrology, and women. You can even consult your private bookshelf of philosophical works, or join in a weekly philosophy debate. Rooms in an annex across the street are larger; some open onto a private terrace. Anna van den Vondelstraat 6 (off Overtoom, at Vondelpark), 1054 GZ Amsterdam. &020/683-3013. Fax 020/685-3750. www.sandton.eu. 38 units. 105€–180€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 1 to Jan Pieter Heijestraat. Amenities: Lounge. Inroom: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

AMSTERDAM

Where to Stay

King’s Villa Hotel On Vondelpark’s edge in a quiet residential district, this hotel in a renovated circa-1900 Art Nouveau mansion is a good choice. Both inside and out, it’s as near as you can get in Amsterdam to staying in a country villa. Furnishings and decor are tasteful, and combine Louis XIV and Liberty styles while featuring stained-glass windows and Murano chandeliers. The house also has a private garden and terrace. It’s about a 10-minute walk through Vondelpark to Leidseplein. Koningslaan 64 (off Oranje Nassaulaan), 1075 AG Amsterdam. &020/673-7223. Fax 020/675-0031. www.kingsvillahotel.nl. 22 units. 130€–240€ double. AE, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 2 to Valeriusplein. Amenities: Lounge; bikes; Wi-Fi (free). Inroom: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, minibar.

Facing Vondelpark, and close to Amsterdam’s important museums, this appealing, well-kept Art Nouveau villa hotel is named after a 17th-century Dutch admiral who captured a Spanish silver shipment. Its spacious rooms have all been modernized recently and are furnished with a subtle nautical theme. Half the rooms overlook the park; two second-floor double rooms have semicircular balconies. Lower-priced rooms are in an annex behind the main hotel. In summer the bar sets tables and chairs out on the garden terrace.

Piet Hein

Vossiusstraat 52–53 (off van Baerlestraat), 1071 AK Amsterdam. &020/662-7205. Fax 020/662-1526. www.hotelpiethein.nl. 65 units. 135€–250€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 3, 5, or 12 to Van Baerlestraat. Amenities: Bar; room service. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

INEXPENSIVE Museumzicht This hotel in a Victorian house across from the back of the Rijksmuseum is ideal for museumgoers on a budget. The breakfast room commands an excellent view of the museum with its numerous stained-glass windows. Robin de Jong, the proprietor, has filled the guest rooms with an eclectic furniture collection, from 1930s English wicker to the present day. There’s no elevator, and the staircase up to reception is pretty steep. Jan Luijkenstraat 22 (facing the Rijksmuseum), 1071 CN Amsterdam. &020/671-2954. Fax 020/6713597. www.hotelmuseumzicht.nl. 14 units, 3 with bathroom. 115€ double with bathroom; 55€–85€ double without bathroom. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 2 or 5 to Hobbemastraat. Amenities: Lounge; room service (coffee and tea); Wi-Fi (free). Inroom: No phone.

Amsterdam South EXPENSIVE Bilderberg Garden Hotel Amsterdam’s most personal five-star hotel is set in a leafy corner along the Amstelkanaal. Because of its excellent restaurant, the Garden considers itself a “culinary hotel,” an idea that extends to the rooms, whose color schemes are salad green, salmon pink, cherry red, and grape blue—choose whichever suits you best. The rooms themselves are furnished and equipped according to high standards and with refined taste. Bathrooms are marble, and each executive room has 284

a Jacuzzi tub. The spectacular lobby has a wall-to-wall fireplace with a coppersheathed chimney. A deserved reputation attaches to the superb French-Mediterranean Mangerie de Kersentuin (Cherry Orchard) restaurant; all things considered, its menu is reasonably priced. The Kersepit (Cherry Pit) is a cozy bar with an open fireplace and a vast range of Scotch whiskeys. Dijsselhofplantsoen 7 (at Apollolaan), 1077 BJ Amsterdam. & 020/570-5600. Fax 020/570-5654. www.gardenhotel.nl. 124 units. 225€–325€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 5 or 24 to Apollolaan. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; bikes; concierge; room service. Inroom: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (10€/hr., 17€/day).

MODERATE

If you consider yourself a mobile citizen—better make that netizen, since only online reservations are accepted—this hotel could be the perfect Amsterdam node for you. Admittedly, a location in the business-orientated World Trade Center zone in Amsterdam-Zuid (South) means you’ll miss out on lodging in the bustling heart of one of the world’s most exciting cities. But the hotel’s ultra-modern design (which wouldn’t look too out of place on Coruscant), touchcontrol room installations, king-size double beds, and moderate prices, and the area’s relative tranquillity, are among a bunch of persuasive plus-points. Besides, there’s a fast-tram connection into the center of town.

citizenM Amsterdam City

Where to Stay

Apollolaan 123–127 (off Minervalaan), 1077 AP Amsterdam. & 020/577-3800. Fax 020/675-0348. www.hampshire-hotels.com. 40 units. 135€–185€ double; 295€ suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 5 or 24 to Apollolaan. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; room service. Inroom: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (8.50€/day).

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The small, elegant Apollofirst, a family-owned hotel set amid the Amsterdam school architecture of Apollolaan, advertises itself as the “best quarters in town in the town’s best quarter.” Their claim may be debatable, but the Venman family’s justifiable pride in their establishment is not. All the accommodations are quiet, spacious, and grandly furnished. Bathrooms are fully tiled. Rooms at the back overlook the well-kept gardens of the hotel and its neighbors, and the summer terrace, where guests can have a snack or a cocktail.

Apollofirst Hampshire Classic

Prinses Irenestraat 30 (at Beethovenstraat), 1077 WX Amsterdam. &020/811-7090. www.citizenm amsterdamcity.com. 215 units. 72€–166€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 5 to Prinses Irenestraat/Beethovenstraat or Station-Zuid. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

INEXPENSIVE The young owners of this establishment have found a niche, catering mainly to visitors who wish to explore Amsterdam on bicycles. They help guests plan biking routes through and around the city. You can rent bikes for 7.50€ daily, with no deposit required, and stable your trusty steed indoors. The guest rooms have new carpets and plain but comfortable modern furnishings; some have kitchenettes and small balconies, and there are large rooms for families. The hotel is a few blocks from the popular Albert Cuyp street market, in the hip De Pijp neighborhood. Two old bicycles hang 6m (20 ft.) high on the hotel’s facade, and there are always bikes parked in front. There’s no elevator.

Bicycle Hotel Amsterdam

Van Ostadestraat 123 (off Ferdinand Bolstraat), 1072 SV Amsterdam. &020/679-3452. Fax 020/6715213. www.bicyclehotel.com. 16 units, 8 with bathroom. 60€–120€ double with bathroom; 50€–80€ double without bathroom. Rates include Dutch breakfast. AE, MC, V (4% charge). Parking 25€. Tram: 3, 12, or 25 to Ceintuurbaan/Ferdinand Bolstraat. Amenities: Lounge; bikes; Wi-Fi (free). Inroom: TV.

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Amsterdam East MODERATE

AMSTERDAM

Where to Dine

Arena A converted Roman Catholic orphanage from 1890 houses a friendly, stylish, youth-oriented hotel. Although the exterior bears a passing resemblance to Dracula’s castle, the interior proves they really knew how to do orphanages in those days. Monumental marble staircases, cast-iron banisters, stained-glass windows, marble columns, and original murals have all been faithfully restored. The rambling spaces where the dormitories once were now house stylish doubles and twins. Spare modern rooms, some that are split-level and some that sport timber roof beams and wooden floors, are individually decorated by young up-and-coming Dutch designers. The Continental cafe-restaurant To Dine looks a little like an upgraded cafeteria but has a great alfresco terrace in the garden and an attached bar, To Drink. Hotel guests get discounted admission to the nightclub To Night, which spins music from the 1960s onward in the old orphanage chapel. ’s-Gravesandestraat 51 (at Mauritskade), 1092 AA Amsterdam. &020/850-2410. Fax 020/850-2415. www.hotelarena.nl. 127 units. 100€–175€ double; 225€–325€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 25€. Tram: 7 or 10 to Korte ’s-Gravesandestraat. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. Inroom: TV, Wi-Fi (3.50€/hr., 10€/day).

Bridge Hotel The bridge in question is the famous Magere Brug (Skinny Bridge) over the Amstel River. This small, tastefully decorated hotel likely provides guests with more space per euro than any other hotel in town. Its pine-furnished rooms seem like studio apartments, with couches, coffee tables, and easy chairs arranged in lounge areas in such a way that there’s plenty of room left between them and the beds for you to do your morning exercises. There’s no elevator. Amstel 107–111 (near Theater Carré), 1018 EM Amsterdam. &020/623-7068. Fax 020/624-1565. www. thebridgehotel.nl. 46 units. 105€–175€ double; 195€–295€ apt. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking. Tram: 7 or 10 to Weesperplein. Amenities: Lounge. Inroom: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

WHERE TO DINE If cities get the cuisine they deserve, Amsterdam’s ought to be liberal, multiethnic, and adventurous. Guess what? It is. A trading city with a true melting-pot character, Amsterdam has absorbed culinary influences from far and wide, and rustled them all up to its own satisfaction. You’ll find just about every international cuisine type on the city’s restaurant roster—in Amsterdam, they say, you can eat in any language. Better yet, many of these eateries satisfy the sturdy Dutch insistence on getting maximum value out of every euro. Dutch cooking, of course, is part of all this, naturally, but you won’t be stuck with biefstuk (beefsteak) and kip (chicken) every day, unless you want to be.

The Old Center VERY EXPENSIVE CONTINENTAL One of Amsterdam’s most eminent restaurants derives its reputation from French master chef Jean-Jacques Menanteau’s Michelinstarred and critically acclaimed cuisine, together with superb service. It’s more than a little formal. Crystal chandeliers, elaborate moldings, crisp linens, fresh bouquets of flowers, and picture windows with great views of the Amstel River help give this refined place a baronial atmosphere. Respectable attire (jackets for men) is required.

Excelsior

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If your budget can’t compete with that of the royalty and showbiz stars who dine here, try the three-course middagmenu (lunch menu), or the menu du théâtre in the evening, which make fine dining more affordable. Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2–8 (in the Hotel de l’Europe, facing Muntplein). &020/531-1705. www.leurope. nl. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses 34€–44€; fixed-price menus 55€–95€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7–11am, 12:30–2:30pm, and 7–10:30pm; Sat–Sun 7–11am and 7–10:30pm. Tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25 to Muntplein.

EXPENSIVE

Kattengat 4–6 (off Singel). & 020/624-6589. www.desilverenspiegel.com. Main courses 27€–29€; fixed-price menus 40€–53€. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Tram: 1, 2, 5, 13, or 17 to Martelaarsgracht.

Where to Dine

MODERN DUTCH The “Five Flies” is a kind of Old Dutch theme park, with nine separate dining rooms in five canal houses decorated with objects from Holland’s Golden Age. Each room has a different character. For example, the Rembrandt Room has four original etchings by the artist; the Glass Room has a collection of Golden Age handmade glassware; and the Knight’s Room is adorned with 16th-century armor and accoutrements. The chef is out to convey the culinary excellence inherent in many traditional Dutch recipes and products, in an updated, “New Dutch” form, employing organic ingredients when possible.

D’Vijff Vlieghen

13 AMSTERDAM

De Silveren Spiegel MODERN DUTCH/FRENCH The two houses that compose one of the oldest restaurants in Amsterdam were built in 1614 for wealthy soap maker Laurens Jansz Spieghel. It’s typical Old Dutch inside, with a bar downstairs and dining rooms where bedrooms used to be, and it emanates a Dutch tidiness that’s very welcoming. The menu at “The Silver Mirror” offers updated preparations of traditional seafood and meat dishes, such as baked sole filets with wild spinach, and trilogy of lamb with ratatouille—but just as in the old days, the lamb, from Texel, is still Holland’s finest. Be sure to try the Zaanse mustard.

Spuistraat 294–302 (at Spui; entrance at Vliegendesteeg 1). &020/530-4060. www.d-vijffvlieghen. com. Main courses 22€–39€; seasonal menu 26€–53€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5:30pm–midnight. Tram: 1, 2, or 5 to Spui.

MODERATE Haesje Claes DUTCH If you’re yearning for a cozy Old Dutch environment and hearty Dutch food at moderate prices, try this inviting place. Lots of nooks and crannies decorated with wood paneling, Delftware, wooden barrels, brocaded benches, and traditional Dutch hanging lamps with fringed covers give an intimate, comfortable feel to the setting. The menu covers a lot of ground, from canapés to caviar, but you have the most luck with Dutch stalwarts ranging from omelets to tournedos. Try hutspot (stew), stampot (mashed potatoes and cabbage), and various fish stews, including those with IJsselmeer paling (eel). Spuistraat 273–275 (at Spui). & 020/624-9998. www.haesjeclaes.nl. Main courses 16€–26€; Neerlands Dis (authentic Dutch) menu 28€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–10pm. Tram: 1, 2, or 5 to Spui.

In de Waag CONTINENTAL Dissections were once carried out on the top floor of De Waag, the public weigh house, which had earlier been the Sint-Antoniespoort Gate in the city walls. Nowadays, dissections are of a culinary nature. This castlelike structure holds one of Amsterdam’s most stylish cafe-restaurants, in an area that’s becoming hipper by the minute. It’s an indelibly romantic place, the long banquet-style tables ablaze with light from hundreds of candles in the evening. You can mix easily with other diners. If you’re not hungry, drop by for just a coffee or a drink. 287

Where to Dine in Amsterdam

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Nieuwmarkt 4. &020/422-7772. www.indewaag.nl. Main courses 17€–25€; fixed-price menu 34€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 10am–1am. Metro: Nieuwmarkt.

INDONESIAN Unlike the many Indonesian restaurants in Holland that wear their ethnic origins on their sleeves, literally, with waitstaff decked out in traditional costume, the “Antelope and the Tiger” is chic, modern, and cool. Moreover, it attracts customers who like their Indonesian food not only chic, modern, and cool, but good as well. The two bestsellers in this popular place are nasi goreng Kantjil (fried rice with pork kabobs, stewed beef, pickled cucumbers, and mixed vegetables) and the 20-item rijsttafel for two. Finish off your meal with the multilayered cinnamon cake or (try this at least once) the coffee with ginger liqueur and whipped cream.

Kantjil & de Tijger

AMSTERDAM

Where to Dine

Spuistraat 291–293 (beside Spui). &020/620-0994. www.kantjil.nl. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses 11€–16€; rijsttafels (for 2) 40€–50€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 4:30–11pm; Sat–Sun noon–11pm. Tram: 1, 2, or 5 to Spui.

CONTINENTAL It’s hard to pin down this fashionable, vaguely French/Italian eatery. For one thing, there’s no menu. Its youthful chefs describe their creations as cuisine spontane—they go to the markets, spontaneously pick out whatever’s fresh, and impulsively figure out what to do with it back at base. But the name means “praise” in Dutch, and that sounds about right, since the results are invariably admirable. The choice is deliberately limited, not quite take-it-or-leave-it, but not too far away. Choose from two or three starters, then three main courses—meat, fish, and vegetarian—and finish with a torte. You dine on one of two levels, at plain tables in a cozy setting with bare brick walls and a view of proceedings in the open kitchen. Lof

SECRETS OF THE rijsttafel The Indonesian feast rijsttafel is Holland’s favorite meal, and has been ever since the United East India Company sea captains introduced it to the wealthy burghers of Amsterdam in the 17th century. The rijsttafel (literally “rice table”) originated with Dutch plantation overseers in Indonesia, who liked to sample selectively from Indonesian cuisine. The basic concept of a rijsttafel is to eat a bit of this and a bit of that, blending the flavors and textures. A simple, unadorned bed of rice is the base and the mediator between spicy meats and bland vegetables or fruits, between sweet and sour tastes, soft and crunchy textures. Although a rijsttafel for one is possible, this feast is better shared by two or by a tableful of people. In the case of a solitary diner or a couple, a

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17-dish rijsttafel will be enough food; for four or more, order a 24- or 30-dish rijsttafel and you experience the total taste treat. Among the customary dishes and ingredients of a rijsttafel are loempia (classic Chinese-style egg rolls); satay or sateh (small kabobs of pork, grilled and served with a spicy peanut sauce); perkedel (meatballs); gado-gado (vegetables in peanut sauce); daging smoor (beef in soy sauce); babi ketjap (pork in soy sauce); kroepoek (crunchy, puffy shrimp toast); serundeng (fried coconut); roedjak manis (fruit in sweet sauce); and pisang goreng (fried banana). Beware of one very appealing dish of sauce with small chunks of what looks to be bright-red onion— that is sambal badjak, or simply sambal, and it’s hotter than hot.

Haarlemmerstraat 62 (west of Centraal Station). & 020/620-2997. Main courses 23€; fixed-price menu 35€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 7–11pm (or later). Tram: 1, 2, 5, 13, or 17 to Martelaarsgracht.

INEXPENSIVE INTERNATIONAL “One of the world’s great cafes,” wrote the New York Times about this bohemian, see-and-be-seen grand cafe, where the waitstaff wear starched white aprons. Unlike other cafes in Amsterdam, which often draw a distinctive clientele, the Luxembourg attracts all kinds of people because it offers amazingly large portions of food at reasonable prices. Soups, sandwiches, and such dishes as meatloaf are available. Special attractions often include choices like Chinese dim sum and satay ajam (Indonesian grilled chicken in a peanut sauce). Sunday in particular, but also on other days, it’s a good place to do breakfast over the day’s papers and a cup of strong coffee. You’re encouraged to linger and relax. In summer, there’s sidewalk dining.

Café Luxembourg

Where to Dine

Nam Kee CHINESE In the heart of Amsterdam’s small but growing Chinatown, Nam Kee has a long interior with few obvious graces and little in the way of decor. Don’t let the drab, neon-lit dining room dissuade you from trying the very good, fresh food here. People come for authentic, excellent, modestly priced food from a 140-item menu. Those steamed oysters with black bean sauce and the duck with plum sauce are to die for. The Peking duck—always an indicator of quality in a Chinese restaurant—is satisfyingly crisp-skinned. Service is fast, so you won’t have long to wait for a table, and they’re open late.

AMSTERDAM

Spuistraat 24 (at Spui). &020/620-6264. www.cafeluxembourg.nl. Salads and specials 7.50€–13€; lunch 4.90€–9.90€; main courses 9.50€–16€. AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 9am–1am; Fri–Sat 9am–2am. Tram: 1, 2, or 5 to Spui.

Zeedijk 111–113 at Nieuwmarkt. & 020/624-3470. www.namkee.nl. Main courses 5.75€–16€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–midnight. Metro: Nieuwmarkt.

The Waterfront EXPENSIVE FUSION British celeb-chef Jamie Oliver has brought his unique restaurant concept from London to the old Brazilië building in a harbor redevelopment zone east of Centraal Station. His Amsterdam hotspot has drop-dead gorgeous staff, clientele, and food, with dishes like a salad of the day with figs, prosciutto, Gorgonzola, and toasted almonds on field greens; seafood risotto; and panfried calves’ liver with balsamic figs. Though Jamie doesn’t often preside in person, you can try his eclectic-fun cooking concept in the vast dining room. You can also dine outdoors on a waterside terrace.

Fifteen Amsterdam

Pakhuis Amsterdam, Jollemanhof 9 (at Oostelijke Handelskade). & 020/509-5015. www.fifteen.nl. Main courses 18€–21€. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon to 3pm and 5:30pm–1am. Tram: 25 or 26 to Passenger Terminal Amsterdam.

MODERATE Gare de l’Est FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Originally a coffeehouse for workers at the docks, this distinctive detached house—with a conservatory extension and a large sidewalk terrace—is reason enough to take a ride to what’s now a fashionable part of town. As the restaurant’s name indicates, the cuisine is French traditional, though you’ll notice Mediterranean touches. Service is both relaxed and knowledgeable, and the fixed-price menu is an excellent value. The strict threecourse formula leaves no room for choice—except for the main course—but plenty 291

for market-fresh ingredients and culinary creativity. There’s literally no way to know what will be on the daily changing menu. Cruquiusweg 9 (at the Eastern Harbor). &020/463-0620. www.garedelest.nl. Reservations recommended on weekends. Fixed-price menu 32€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6–11pm. Tram: 7 or 10 to Zeeburgerdijk.

AMSTERDAM

Where to Dine

Pier 10 FRENCH/INTERNATIONAL Perched on an old pier on Het IJ behind Centraal Station, this restaurant can’t help being romantic. It has great views of the IJ waterway from its big outdoor terrace and from the serre (glassed-in room) at the end of the pier. The coming and going of harbor ferries, cruise liners, and workaday barges on the ship channel adds a dash of nautical bustle to the scene, making this one of only a few restaurants where you’re aware of the sea and port traffic that was once Amsterdam’s lifeblood. Candlelight softens the funky diner decor, and the fanciful international-eclectic food—salads of all kinds, new herring, steak, and fish—ebbs and flows like the tides in Het IJ. De Ruyterkade, Steiger 10 (behind Centraal Station). &020/427-2310. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses 20€–22€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 6:30pm–1am. Tram: 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 16, 17, 24, 25, or 26 to Centraal Station.

Wilhelmina-Dok MEDITERRANEAN Just across the IJ channel from Centraal Station, this waterside eatery has an old-fashioned maritime look from its plain wood tables, wood floors, and oak cabinets, and large windows serve up views across the boat-speckled waterway. Most tables on the outdoor terrace are sheltered from the wind in a glass-walled enclosure. The thin menu favors plain cooking and organic products and concentrates on a few broadly Italian, French, or Spanish items with an occasional dash of the Maghreb. Or settle back with just a beer and a snack. On Monday evenings in summer, you can take in movies on an outdoor screen. Noordwal 1 (at IJplein). & 020/632-3701. www.wilhelmina-dok.nl. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses 18€–21€; chef’s menu 28€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight. Ferry: IJveer from Waterplein-West behind Centraal Station to the dock at IJplein; then go right, along the dike-top path.

INEXPENSIVE DUTCH/CONTINENTAL A plain neighborhood brown cafe in the gentrified Westelijke Eilanden (Western Islands) district has been transformed into a great eetcafé (cafe with food) by the simple expedient of adding a kitchen and a menu. It partakes of the village-y setting on these tranquil islands—which feel isolated despite a location just west of Centraal Station—and brings its own cozy atmosphere to the party. There’s a nice sidewalk terrace on the square, though with an uninspiring view of trains coming and going into Centraal Station on the adjacent elevated rail line. The kitchen finds its comfort zone in Dutch standbys like Zeeland mussels, but runs to ostrich steak and some adventurous salads.

’t Blaauwhooft

Hendrik Jonkerplein 1 (Bickerseiland, off Haarlemmerhouttuinen). &020/623-8721. www.blaauwhooft. nl. Main courses 9€–18€; dagschotel (plate of the day) 12€. No credit cards. Daily 3–10pm. Bus: 18 or 22 to Haarlemmerhouttuinen.

The Canal Belt EXPENSIVE Christophe MODERN FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN French chef JeanJoel Bonsens expertly wields tangy Mediterranean flourishes to create an updated version of classic French cuisine. His ultrarefined food, served in a main dining room 292

An Amsterdam Dinner Cruise A dinner cruise is a delightful way to combine sightseeing and leisurely dining. During these 21⁄2-hour canal cruises, enjoy a five-course dinner that includes a cocktail, wine with dinner, coffee with bonbons, and a glass of cognac or a

liqueur to finish. Reservations are required. The cruises cost around 60€– 100€ for adults, and 30€–50€ for children 4–12. See “Organized Tours,” later in this chapter, for details on the tourboat lines.

Vinkeles CONTEMPORARY FRENCH If you dress up in black to celebrate (and I don’t mean a tux), then head for this ultrahip, Michelin-star restaurant in an unlikely setting: the converted bakery of a 17th-century almshouse. Its restrained tones soften some of the harsher edges of the überchic designer hotel the Dylan (p. 279). The decor includes a bare section of the bakery’s brick wall, along with ovens and other fittings, all of which add to the sense of dining in an old Amsterdam canal house. Top chef Dennis Kuipers, who has an instinct for the right taste combinations and the know-how to put them together so they hit the spot, whips up dishes such as roasted Anjou pigeon with five spices and dried apricots. Dining outside in fine weather in the tree-shaded courtyard is an added plus.

Where to Dine

Leliegracht 46 (between Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht). & 020/625-0807. www.restaurant christophe.nl. Main courses 29€–36€; fixed-price menus 36€–66€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 6:30– 10:30pm. Tram: 13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt.

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of modern flair, employs traditional Mediterranean ingredients—figs, truffles, olives, anchovies, peppers, saffron, and more—in exciting new ways. North African tajine and Italian pata negra ham have a place on the menu, alongside French “staples” like roast Vendée duck. Bonsen rings the changes seasonally, so what you get depends on when you visit. You get a flavor of what’s on offer from dishes like the tuna carpaccio with salted lemon, the roasted pheasant in a crust of green peppers and cardamom, and the roasted turbot with turnip.

Keizersgracht 384 (in the Dylan Amsterdam Hotel, at Runstraat). & 020/530-2010. www.vinkeles. com. Reservations required. Main courses 29€–44€; fixed-price menu 45€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7–11am, noon–2pm, and 6:30–11pm; Sat 7–11am and 6:30–11pm. Tram: 13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt.

MODERATE VEGETARIAN Forget the corn sheaf–’n’–brown rice image affected by so many vegetarian restaurants. Instead, garnish your healthful habits with tangy flavors and a dash of zest. Latin style, aboriginal art, world music, ethnic exhibits, evening candlelight, and a fine view of the canal from each of the two plant-bedecked rooms in this former hat store—bolhoed is Dutch for bowler hat—distinguish a restaurant for which “vegetarian” is a tad too wholesome-sounding. Service is delivered with equal amounts of gusto and attention. If you want to go the whole hog, so to speak, and eat vegan, most of Bolhoed’s dishes can be prepared this way, and most are made with organic produce; the wine is organic, too. In fine weather, dine right beside the canal. Bolhoed

Prinsengracht 60–62 (near Noordermarkt). & 020/626-1803. Main courses 13€–17€; fixedprice menus 13€–19€. No credit cards. Sun–Fri noon–11pm; Sat 11am–11pm. Tram: 13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt.

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CONTINENTAL Classical music complements a graceful Art Nouveau setting at this two-level restaurant overlooking the photogenic junction of the Herengracht and Brouwersgracht canals. The tables fill up quickly most evenings, so make reservations or go early. The menu changes seasonally (game is a big deal here in the fall), but here’s a sampling of dishes that recently appeared: puffed pastries layered with salmon, shellfish, crayfish tails, and chervil beurre blanc to start; and beef tenderloin in Madeira sauce with zucchini rösti and puffed garlic for a main course. Or order a vegetarian dish. Try for a window table and take in the superb canal views. The waitstaff is occasionally a bit too laid-back, and when it’s full, the acoustic peculiarities of the place mean that it can get noisy.

De Belhamel

AMSTERDAM

Where to Dine

Brouwersgracht 60 (at Herengracht). & 020/622-1095. www.belhamel.nl. Main courses 11€–27€; fixed-price menus 30€–45€. AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 6–10pm; Fri–Sat 6–10:30pm. Tram: 1, 2, 5, 13, or 17 to Martelaarsgracht.

De Luwte INTERNATIONAL “Graceful” is the word that seems to best sum up this fine restaurant, though that quality never descends into stiffness. Grace exudes from the Florentine wall murals, floor-to-ceiling Art Deco lamps, drapes, hangings, ceiling mirrors painted with flowers and vines, a candle on every table, and, not least of all, from its elegant canal-side location. And De Luwte avoids being starchy because of its characteristically Amsterdam exuberance and buzz. In either of the twin rooms, try for a window table looking out on the handsome little Leliegracht canal. The menu ranges across the globe, from a Dutch and Mediterranean foundation; look to order items such as the vegetarian coconut curry crepes filled with spinach, lentils, and nuts, or stir-fried guinea fowl with nuts and bok choy. Leliegracht 26–28 (btw. Keizersgracht and Herengracht). &020/625-8548. www.restaurantdeluwte. nl. Main courses 16€–20€; fixed-price menu 32€. AE, MC, V. Daily 6–11pm. Tram: 13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt.

CONTINENTAL This place would almost be worth the visit for its name alone, so it’s doubly gratifying that the food is good, too. The interior is typical neighborhood-eetcafé style, with the day’s specials chalked on a blackboard, a long table with newspapers at the front, and the kitchen visible in back. High standards of cooking put this place above others of its kind. The eclectic menu changes seasonally, but to give you an idea of its range, I’ve come fork to face here with Thai fish curry and pandan rice, saltimbocca of trout in white-wine sauce, and artichoke mousseline with tarragon sauce and green asparagus. In fine weather, dine under the trees on an outdoor terrace beside the tranquil Leliegracht canal. Spanjer & van Twist

Leliegracht 60 (off Keizersgracht). &020/639-0109. www.spanjerenvantwist.nl. Main courses 14€– 16€. MC, V. Sun–Thurs 10am–1am; Fri–Sat 10am–2am (only light snacks after 11pm). Tram: 13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt.

INDONESIAN For authentic Indonesian cuisine, this place is hard to beat. It’s got a batik ambience that’s restrained Indonesian, and fine china. Try the small meat, fish, and vegetable dishes of three different rijsttafel options, from the 15-plate vegetarian rijsttafel sayoeran and the 15-plate rijsttafel stimoelan, to the sumptuous 25-plate rijsttafel istemewa. You get dishes like gadon dari sapi (beef in a mild coconut sauce and fresh coriander), ajam roedjak (chicken in a strongly seasoned sauce of chiles and coconut), sambal goreng oedang (small shrimps with Indonesian spices), and atjar (sweet-and-sour Indonesian salad). For great individual dishes, go for the nasi koening or any of the vegetarian options. One caution: When something on the menu is described as pedis, meaning hot, that’s exactly what it is. Tempo Doeloe

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Utrechtsestraat 75 (btw. Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht). & 020/625-6718. www.tempodoeloe restaurant.nl. Reservations required. Main courses 14€–25€; rijsttafel 28€–36€; fixed-price menu 27€– 45€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6–11:30pm. Tram: 4 to Keizersgracht.

INEXPENSIVE DUTCH/FRENCH This cozy eetcafé, housed in a 17th-century canal house across the water from the Anne Frankhuis, has a smoke-stained, browncafe style, but its food could easily grace a much more expensive restaurant. De Prins offers an unbeatable price-to-quality ratio for typically Dutch/French menu items, and long may it continue to do so. The youthful clientele is loyal and enthusiastic, quickly filling up the relatively few tables. This is a quiet neighborhood place—nothing fancy or trendy, but very appealing in a local way. There’s a bar on a slightly lower level than the restaurant. From March to September, De Prins spreads a terrace along the canalside.

De Prins

Where to Dine

VEGETARIAN In its fourth decade of tickling meat-shunning palates, this temple of organic taste is one of the best vegetarian (and vegan) options in town. If anything, the atmosphere is a tad too hallowed, an effect enhanced by an absence of decorative flourishes that’s Zen-like in its purity. The menu livens things up, with its unlikely roster of delicately spiced Indian, Middle Eastern, and Mexican dishes. Multiple-choice platters are a good way to go. For the Indian thali, select from choices like sag paneer (homemade cheese in a spinach and onion sauce) and raita (cucumber and yogurt dip); the Middle Eastern platter has stalwarts like falafel, chickpea-and-vegetable stew, and vegetable dolmas. Side dishes are as varied as guacamole, couscous, and pakora. Golden Temple

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Prinsengracht 124 (at Egelantiersgracht). & 020/624-9382. www.deprins.nl. Main courses 11€–17€; dagschotel 12€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 10am–1 or 2am (kitchen to 10pm). Tram: 13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt.

Utrechtsestraat 126 (2 blocks south of Prinsengracht). & 020/626-8560. www.restaurantgolden temple.com. Main courses 14€–16€; mixed platter 16€. MC, V. Daily 7am–10pm. Tram: 4 to Prinsengracht.

BAKERY In a 17th-century canal warehouse, this two-story restaurant with winding staircases and exposed beams serves some of the most delicious and unusual pancakes you’ll ever taste. There are several dozen varieties, and almost all constitute a full meal. The large pancakes come adorned with all sorts of toppings, both sweet and spicy. Choices include salami and cheese, cheese and ginger, curried turkey with pineapple and raisins, honey nuts and whipped cream, and ice cream and advokaat (a Dutch eggnoglike cocktail). One of the bestsellers is the “American” pancake: with fried chicken, sweet corn, peppers, carrots, Cajun sauce, and salad. In summer, a few tables are placed in front overlooking the canal, but beware: All the syrup, honey, and sugar being passed around tends to attract bees and hornets.

Pancake Bakery

Prinsengracht 191 (at Prinsenstraat). & 020/625-1333. www.pancake.nl. Reservations required for large groups. Pancakes 5.95€–14€ (4.95€–6.95€ for kids). AE, MC, V. Daily noon–9:30pm. Tram: 13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt.

Leidseplein MODERATE Café Americain CONTINENTAL The lofty dining room here is a national monument of Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Since its opening in 1900, the place has been a hangout for Dutch and international artists, writers, dancers, and actors. Tout Amsterdam once liked to be seen here, but now it’s mostly for tourists. Don’t let that 295

worry you: It’s still great. Leaded stained-glass windows, newspaper-littered reading tables, bargello-patIn the 1960s, satirist Gerrit Komrij terned velvet upholstery, frosted-glass described the Café Americain’s notoriTiffany chandeliers from the 1920s, ously brusque waiters as “unemployed and tall carved columns are all part of knife-throwers.” the dusky sit-and-chat atmosphere. Seafood specialties include monkfish, perch, salmon, and king prawns; meat dishes include rack of Irish lamb and rosé breast of duck with creamed potatoes. Jazz lovers can stock up on good music and food at the Sunday jazz brunch.

Real Cutups

AMSTERDAM

Where to Dine

Leidsekade 97 (in the Amsterdam American Hotel, at Leidseplein). & 020/556-3000. www.eden amsterdamamericanhotel.com. Main courses 16€–23€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 10:30am–midnight. Tram: 1, 2, 5, 7, or 10 to Leidseplein.

Rembrandtplein MODERATE Memories of India INDIAN

The Khan family proprietors earned their spurs in the crowded and intensely competitive London market for Indian cuisine, and then brought their award-winning formula to Amsterdam. That formula is simple, really: Serve top-flight Indian food in a setting that gives traditional Indian motifs a modern slant, charge moderate prices, and employ an attentive waitstaff. The menu is pretty straightforward, with the usual tandoori and curry dishes, but it pushes the boat out a bit with some fish items, like the Indian Ocean pomfret in a roasted coriander-seed sauce. Takeout service is available.

Reguliersdwarsstraat 88 (at Vijzelstraat). & 020/623-5710. www.memoriesofindia.nl. Main courses 12€–22€; fixed-price menus 18€–28€ a head. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5–11:30pm. Tram: 4, 9, or 14 to Rembrandtplein.

The Jordaan EXPENSIVE FRENCH This restaurant is justly regarded as one of the best in the city. The decor is tasteful, with green potted plants offsetting the severity of the white walls and metallic black tables. Service is relaxed yet attentive, and on mild summer evenings, you can’t beat dining alfresco on the canal-side terrace. But the real treat is the food. An innovative chef accents French standards with Mediterranean and Asian flourishes to create an elegant fusion of flavors. The menu changes often but might include something like these: Bresse pigeon with fresh morel mushrooms and polenta, salted rib roast with bordelaise sauce, serrano ham marinated in wine and vinegar and served with fresh pasta, or even Japanese-style raw fish.

Bordewijk

Noordermarkt 7 (at Prinsengracht). &020/624-3899. www.bordewijk.nl. Reservations required. Main courses 24€–29€; fixed-price menu 39€–72€. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sun 6:30–10pm. Tram: 1, 2, 5, 13, or 17 to Martelaarsgracht.

MODERATE SEAFOOD The Atlantic and North Sea fish served here have the great virtue of being grilled, poached, and fried in the simplest manner possible, then served in a relaxed neighborhood atmosphere amid ship-ahoy decor. In summer, you can dine on a narrow sidewalk terrace and

Albatros Seafoodhouse & Vis Restaurant

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watch seagulls and albatrosses flying overhead, while soaking up the atmospheric Jordaan, where there’s little traffic and locals chatting on stoops. Try the mixed seafood salad, the raw herring, or the sea bass. Westerstraat 264 (at Lijnbaansgracht). & 020/627-9932. www.restaurantalbatros.nl. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses 16€–23€ (some prices set daily). AE, DC, MC, V. Thurs–Mon 6–11pm. Tram: 3 or 10 to Marnixplein.

ITALIAN Owners Marjolein and Massimo Pasquinoli have transformed this tiny space on a lively Jordaan street into a piece of authentic Italy, and a showcase for the kind of cuisine Italian mothers wish they could equal. When you sit down, Marjolein brings a dish of garlicky tapenade and warm bread. For an appetizer, you might select a balanced fish soup with a slice of salmon, or lightly grilled eggplant slices with fresh herbs. The zuppa di gamberone con l’acquetta, a plate of prawns and shellfish from the market, is terrific. Choose from a variety of wonderful homemade pastas—the tagliatelle with arugula and truffles is a particular treat—and of secondi piatti such as veal stuffed with Italian sausage or duck cooked Roman style.

Hostaria

Where to Dine

’t Stuivertje MODERN DUTCH Tucked down a narrow Jordaan side street, this small and personable neighborhood eatery is invariably filled with locals. Meals come from an open kitchen in an agreeably plain, intimate room, with wood chairs and tables, and a small bar. Black-and-white photographs of American stars, like Ol’ Blue Eyes, hang on the walls with contrasting Old Dutch prints. The limited menu reflects the restaurant’s authentic Amsterdam style, featuring classic Dutch dishes with that extra tasty little something, as in the gegrilde varkensfilet met een cantherellen-roomsaus (grilled pork filet in a chanterelles-cream sauce). There are vegetarian choices, daily specials, and a seasonal menu.

AMSTERDAM

Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat 9 (off Egelantiersgracht). & 020/626-0028. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses 17€–23€; fixed-price menu 34€. No credit cards. Tues–Sun 6–10pm. Tram: 13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt.

Hazenstraat 58 (off Lauriergracht). & 020/623-1349. www.hetstuivertje.nl. Main courses 13€–25€; fixed-price menu 24€. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sun 5:30–11pm. Tram: 7 or 10 to Marnixstraat.

Local Heroes To eat a genuine Dutch broodje (sandwich) in a real broodjeswinkel (sandwich shop), go to the ever-crowded Eetsalon Van Dobben, Korte Reguliersdwarsstraat 5–9 (&020/624-4200; www.vandobben.nl; tram: 4, 9, or 14), off Rembrandtplein, where you might try a smoked-eel sandwich. Locals come here for these and herring, liverwurst, croquets, or ox-tongue sandwiches. Simpler roast beef and Gouda sandwiches are also available. Some patrons swear by the platter of giant meatballs. It’s open Monday to

Saturday from 9:30am to 1am (to 2am Sat), and Sunday from 11:30am to 8pm. Should Amsterdam’s shortage of good pastrami on rye get to you, head out to Amsterdam-Zuid (South), to the great kosher sandwich shop Sal Meijer , Scheldestraat 45 (&020/ 673-1313; www.sal-meijer.com; tram: 12 or 25), off Churchill-laan. The sandwiches start at 2.95€; the plate of the day begins at 15€. Sal’s is open Sunday to Thursday from 10am to 7:30pm, and Friday from 10am to 2pm.

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Museum District & Vondelpark MODERATE INTERNATIONAL Invariably packed with hip locals, “The Devil” is a friendly neighborhood eetcafé (bar with eats) that serves morethan-decent food in a cozy red dining room in the trendy De Pijp district, close to Sarphatipark. Indonesian chicken saté, salad with prawns tempura, and beef filet in a mustard mousseline are some of the typical dishes—a bit wider-ranging than your standard Continental fare, but nothing overly adventurous—on a menu that changes every 3 months yet rarely goes without some kind of pasta, seafood, and chicken offering. The bar side of things is at least as important as the restaurant, and the kitchen closes before midnight.

Café-Restaurant De Duvel

AMSTERDAM

Where to Dine

Eerste van der Helststraat 59–61. &020/675-7517. www.deduvel.nl. Main courses 13€–17€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon 4pm–1am; Tues–Thurs 11am–1am; Fri–Sat 11am–3am; Sun noon–1am. Tram: 3, 12 or 25 to Ceintuurbaan/Ferdinand Bolstraat.

MEDITERRANEAN In the vaulted basement of a monumental, late19th-century villa on Vondelpark’s edge, this tree-shaded, animated cafe-restaurant shares premises with the Film Instituut Nederland and its EYE film theater, which is due to move to Amsterdam-Noord (North) at the end of 2011. Hence the portraits of screen legends on the walls and the classic scenes of movie dining on the menu; the name is even a reference to Hitchcock’s classic movie. On summer days, the outside terrace on the edge of Vondelpark is a favored time-out spot for in-line skaters and joggers, and you can expect to share your table and make instant acquaintances with just about everyone within earshot. At other times, you can enjoy the southern European–inspired cuisine in an intimate, candlelit setting inside. The menu, which changes often, has fish, meat, and vegetarian options, plus some fresh pastas.

Vertigo

Vondelpark 3 (at Vondelstraat). 020/612-3021. www.vertigo.nl. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses 12€–20€; fixed-price menu 25€. AE, MC, V. Daily 10am–1am. Tram: 1 or 6 to Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat, or 2, 3, 5, or 12 to Van Baerlestraat.

Wildschut CONTINENTAL One of those places that keeps its chic reputation through thick and thin, this cafe-restaurant occupies a curved dining room at the junction of van Baerlestraat and Roelof Hartstraat, not far from the Concertgebouw. During the summer, Amsterdam’s bold and beautiful come to see and be seen on the terrace. It gets crowded here on Friday and Saturday evenings, so be prepared to join the standing throng while waiting for a table. The food is straightforward but good, ranging from BLTs to vegetarian lasagna to American rib-eye with green-pepper sauce. Roelof Hartplein 1–3 (off van Baerlestraat). &020/676-8220. www.goodfoodgroup.nl. Main courses 15€–18€. MC, V. Mon–Thurs 9am–1am; Fri 9am–3am; Sat 10:30am–3am; Sun 9:30am–midnight. Tram: 3, 5, 12, or 24 to Roelof Hartplein.

Amsterdam South EXPENSIVE CONTINENTAL Despite a precocious, aren’t-we-fabulous house style, this eatery merits a traipse out to the edge of town. The converted 1926 greenhouse with a smokestack, on open ground in South Amsterdam, is light, breezy, and spacious. You get just a couple of variations on a three-course, daily changing fixed menu. Organic Mediterranean-style greens and herbs come fresh from an adjacent working hothouse and the restaurant’s own farm, and meat is sourced daily from

De Kas

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nearby animal-friendly organic producers. Persnickety attention to detail is the norm in the kitchen, and service is attentive enough that the waitstaff seem to be acquainted personally with every item on your plate. Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3 (close to Amstel station). &020/462-4562. www.restaurantdekas.nl. Reservations required. Fixed-price lunch 38€; fixed-price dinner 50€; chef’s table 125€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon– Fri noon–3pm and 6:30–10pm; Sat 6:30–10pm. Tram: 9 to Hogeweg.

Amsterdam East INEXPENSIVE

Rapenburgerplein 6 (at Prins Hendrikkade). &020/622-3485. Reservations required. Main courses 11€–17€; dagschotel 15€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 5–10pm. Bus: 22, 42, or 43 to Kadijksplein.

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Kilimanjaro AFRICAN This chic restaurant on the ground floor of a narrow old house not far from the Maritime Museum has few tables, and it serves such authentically good food—a variety of African specialties, such as Senegalese lamb curry, crocodile steak (very snappy), and doro wat (spicy Ethiopian chicken sautéed in redpepper sauce and served with a spinach salad). The simple decor of high ceilings, white walls, and colorful tablecloths smartly manages to avoid the usual colonial jungle-cabana look.

Amsterdam West CONTINENTAL Based in a century-old water-pumping station complete with diesel-powered engine, the inventively named Amsterdam has taken a monument of Victorian industrial good taste and transformed it into a model of contemporary good eats. You dine amid a buzz of conviviality in the large, brightly lit former pumping hall, which had been so carefully tended by the water workers that some of its elegant decoration didn’t even need repainting. Service is friendly, and the good food is moderately priced. The fried sweetbreads are popular. If you’re sharing and feeling flush, spring for a seafood platter of lobster, crab, clams, and more. The Amsterdam is a little bit out from the center of town, but it’s easily worth the tram ride.

Amsterdam

Where to Dine

MODERATE

Watertorenplein 6 (off Haarlemmerweg). & 020/682-2666. www.cradam.nl. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses 12€–18€; seafood platters (for 2) 33€–65€. AE, DC, MC, V. Sun– Thurs 11am–1am; Fri–Sat 11am–2am (meals served to 11:30pm). Tram: 10 to van Hallstraat.

Picnic Picks You can pick up almost anything you might want for a picnic—from cold cuts to freshly packed sandwiches to a bottle of wine—at the Albert Heijn supermarket, at the corner of Leidsestraat and Koningsplein, near Spui (tram: 1, 2, or 5), open Monday to Friday from 9am to 8pm and Saturday from 9am to 6pm. Then head over to Vondelpark, only a 10-minute walk. In summertime, you

might even catch a free concert at the outdoor theater there. At the branch of Albert Heijn on Museumplein, across the street from the Concertgebouw (tram: 3, 5, 12, or 16), haul your brown bag right up onto the sloping, grasscovered roof, which is a prime spot for sunbathing, hanging out, and picnicking, and has a great view of Museumplein.

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SEEING THE SIGHTS

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Seeing the Sights

For sightseers in Amsterdam, the question is not simply what to see and do, but rather how many of this intriguing city’s marvelous sights you can fit into the time you have. There are miles and miles of canals to cruise, hundreds of narrow streets to wander, countless historic buildings to visit, more than 40 museums holding collections of everything from artistic wonders to obscure curiosities, not to mention all the diamond cutters and craftspeople to watch as they practice generations-old skills . . . the list is as long as every tourist’s individual interests. Your very first stop on any sightseeing excursion, of course, should be the tourist office—the staff there has information on anything you might want to know and some things you might not even have known you wanted to know. One absolute must-do in Amsterdam is a canalboat cruise (see “Organized Tours,” later in this chapter). The view of the elegant canal houses from the water is unforgettable.

The Top Attractions You shouldn’t miss seeing and experiencing the Anne Frank House. In this typical Amsterdam canal house, with steep interior stairs, eight people from three separate families lived together in near silence for more than 2 years during World War II. This hiding place that Otto Frank found for his family, the van Pels family, and Fritz Pfeffer kept them safe until it was raided by Nazi forces tragically close to the end of the war, its occupants deported to concentration camps. It was in this house that Anne, whose ambition was to be a writer, kept her famous diary as a way to deal with both the boredom and her youthful array of thoughts, which had as much to do with personal relationships as with the war and the Nazi terror raging outside. Visiting the rooms in which she hid is a moving and eerily real experience. During the war, the building was an office and warehouse, and its rooms are still as bare as they were when Anne’s father returned, the only survivor of the eight onderduikers (divers, or hiders). Nothing has been changed, except that protective Plexiglas

Anne Frankhuis

YOUR passport TO AMSTERDAM To get the most out of your trip, consider purchasing the I amsterdam Card. The card is valid for 1 day for 38€, 2 days for 48€, and 3 days for 58€. It affords free travel on public transportation; free admission to more than 40 museums and attractions, including the Rijksmuseum or the Van Gogh Museum (not both), and discounted admission to more museums and attractions; a free canalboat cruise; discounted excursions, including reduced rates on the Hop On Hop Off Museum Boat and the Canal Bus; and discounts at some restaurants and stores.

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Before purchasing one, think about whether you’ll get your money’s worth. Remember, this is Holland, where the local fondness for the coin of the realm is proverbial and killer bargains are thin on the ground. You’ll have to work yourself pretty hard to come out ahead, jumping on and off trams, buses, and canalboats, and running into and out of museums. The card is available from Holland Tourist Information at Schiphol Airport and from Amsterdam Tourist Information offices in the city.

panels now protect the wall on which Anne pinned up photos of her favorite actress, Deanna Durbin, and of the little English princesses Elizabeth and Margaret. As you tour the building, it’s easy to imagine Anne’s experience growing up in this place, awakening as a young woman and writing down her secret thoughts. To avoid lines, get here early—this advice isn’t as useful as it used to be, because everybody is both giving it and heeding it, but it should still save you some waiting time. An even better strategy is to go in the evening on a night when the museum stays open until 9 or 10pm—it’s generally quieter and less crowded. Next door at no. 265–267 is a separate wing for temporary exhibits. Prinsengracht 263 (at Westermarkt). &020/556-7105. www.annefrank.org. Admission 8€ adults, 4€ children 10–17, free for children 9 and under. Mid-Mar to June and 1st 2 weeks of Sept Mon–Fri 9am– 9pm, Sat 9am–10pm; July–Aug daily 9am–10pm; mid-Sept to mid-Mar daily 9am–7pm (Jan 1 noon– 7pm; Dec 25 noon–5pm; Dec 31 9am–5pm). Closed Yom Kippur. Tram: 13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt.

AMSTERDAM Seeing the Sights

The country’s premier museum is still working through a decade-long project to refit itself for the 21st century. Until renovations are done (they’re expected to be completed in 2013), most of the museum is closed, but key paintings and other works from the 17th-century Dutch Golden Age collection can be viewed in the Philips Wing, under the banner of The Masterpieces. Even in its reduced circumstances, the “State Museum” is one of the leading museums in the land. But remember: Most of the collection, which totals some seven million individual objects (only a small fraction of which would be displayed at any given time), will be “invisible” to visitors for at least another few years. Architect Petrus Josephus Hubertus Cuypers (1827–1921), the “grandfather of modern Dutch architecture,” designed the museum in a monumental, gabled Dutch neo-Renaissance style. Cuypers, a Catholic, slipped in a dab of neo-Gothic, too, causing the country’s Protestant King William III to scorn what he called “that cathedral,” and the building opened in 1885 to a less-than-enthusiastic public reception. The Rijksmuseum contains the world’s largest collection of paintings by the Dutch Old Masters, including the most illustrious of all, a single work that all but defines Holland’s Golden Age. That painting is The Militia Company of Captain Frans Banning Cocq and Lieutenant Willem van Ruytenburch (1642), better known as The Night Watch, by Rembrandt. The scene it so dramatically depicts is The Day Watch? surely alien to most of the people who flock to see it: gaily uniformed militiaRembrandt’s The Night Watch (1642) men checking their weapons and actually shows a daytime scene. Centuaccoutrements before moving out on ries of grime dulled its luster until respatrol. Artists van Ruisdael, van toration revealed sunlight glinting on Heemskerck, Frans Hals, Paulus Potthe militia company’s arms. ter, Jan Steen, Vermeer, de Hooch, Terborch, Gerard Dou, and many more also are represented in the museum. The range is impressive—individual portraits, guild paintings, landscapes, seascapes, domestic scenes, medieval religious subjects, allegories, and the incredible (and nearly photographic) Dutch still lifes. Two rare furnished 17th-century dollhouses should be a highlight for children, bringing the Dutch Golden Age to life for them in a way no amount of “real” stuff could. In addition, some of the museum’s finest pieces of antique Delftware and silver are exhibited. Rijksmuseum

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Philips Wing, Jan Luijkenstraat 1B (at Museumplein). &020/674-7000. www.rijksmuseum.nl. Admission 12.50€ adults, free for children 18 and under. Daily 9am–6pm. Closed Jan 1. Tram: 2 or 5 to Hobbemastraat.

Walking through the rooms of this contemporary (1973) building is a moving experience. The museum displays, in chronological order, more than 200 van Gogh paintings. As you move through the rooms, the canvases reflect the artist’s changing environment and much of his inner life, so that gradually van Gogh becomes almost a tangible presence standing at your elbow. You’ll see the early, brooding The Potato Eaters and The Yellow House, and the painting known around the world simply as Sunflowers, though van Gogh actually titled it Still Life with Fourteen Sunflowers. By the time you reach the vaguely threatening Don’t “Go” painting of a flock of black crows rising from a waving cornfield, you can Gogh is not pronounced Go, as Amerialmost feel the artist’s mounting inner cans incorrectly say it, nor is it Goff, as pain. other English speakers would have it, In addition to the paintings, there but Khokh (the kh sounds like the ch in are nearly 600 drawings by van Gogh, the Scottish pronunciation of loch—a on permanent display in the museum’s kind of clearing-your-throat sound). new wing. This free-standing, multistory, half-oval structure, designed by the Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa, is constructed in a bold combination of titanium and gray-brown stone, and is connected to the main building by a subterranean walkway. Note: Lines at the museum can be long, especially in summer—try going on a weekday morning. Allow 2 to 4 hours to get around once you’re inside. Van Gogh Museum

AMSTERDAM

Seeing the Sights

Paulus Potterstraat 7 (at Museumplein). &020/570-5200. www.vangoghmuseum.nl. Admission 10€ adults, 2.50€ children 13–17, free for children 12 and under. Sat–Thurs 10am–6pm; Fri 10am–10pm. Closed Jan 1. Tram: 2, 3, 5, or 12 to van Baerlestraat.

More Museums & Galleries Amsterdams Historisch Museum (Amsterdam Historical Museum)

To better understand what you see as you explore the city, a visit to this brilliantly executed museum is especially worthwhile. Its location, the restored 17th-century former Burger Weeshuis (City Orphanage), is already notable. Gallery by gallery, century by century, you learn how a small fishing village founded around 1200 became a major sea power and trading center. The main focus is on the city’s 17thcentury Golden Age, when Amsterdam was the wealthiest city in the world, and some of the most interesting exhibits are of the trades that made it rich. You can view famous paintings by the Dutch Old Masters in the context of their time. There are plenty of hands-on exhibits and some neat video displays. A scale model from around 1677 shows a then-new Stadhuis (Town Hall) on the Dam, now the Royal Palace. Some outer walls and the roof have been removed to allow you a bird’seye look inside, which makes a later visit to the palace that much more enjoyable. If you don’t feel like visiting the museum but crave some historic art and architecture, stroll through the Schuttersgalerij (Civic Guards Gallery). This narrow, sky-lit, two-story passageway linking Kalverstraat to the hidden Begijnhof courtyard (see “Sights of Religious Significance,” below) is just outside the museum and is 304

signed at various points around it. Under the walkway’s glass roof, you’ll see 15 biggeris-better, 17th-century paintings showing the city’s heroic musketeers, the Civic Guards. One of the best is Captain Joan Huydecoper’s Company Celebrating the Peace of Münster (1648), by Govert Flinck. Admission is free, and hours are the same as for the museum. Kalverstraat 92, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357, and Sint-Luciënsteeg 27 (next to the Begijnhof). &020/523-1822. www.ahm.nl. Admission 10€ adults, 7.50€ seniors, 5€ children 6–18, free for children 5 and under. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun and holidays 11am–5pm. Closed Jan 1, Apr 30, and Dec 25. Tram: 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25 to Spui.

A visit to Amsterdam can offer you some of the experiences of a trip to St. Petersburg. Opened in 2004 in the neoclassical Amstelhof, the Amsterdam branch of Russia’s renowned State Hermitage museum recalls links between the two canal-threaded cities that date back centuries. Surrounding a central courtyard, it’s flanked on two sides by canals and on a third by the Amstel River. Holland even gets some of its own cultural patrimony back again here, if only on loan, since the Hermitage has 600 paintings by Dutch and Flemish Old Masters. The Neerlandia Building, which was built next to the Amstelhof in 1888 as a home for indigent married couples, houses a Hermitage for Children exhibit.

Hermitage Amsterdam

Seeing the Sights

In the heart of what was once Amsterdam’s thriving Jewish Quarter, this museum is housed in the restored Ashkenazi Synagogue complex—a cluster of four former synagogues. It contains a collection of paintings, decorations, and ceremonial objects that was confiscated during World War II and patiently reestablished in the postwar period. Through its objects, photographs, artworks, and interactive displays, the museum tells three intertwining stories—of Jewish identity, Jewish religion and culture, and Jewish history in the Netherlands. It presents the community in both good times and bad and provides insights into the Jewish way of life over the centuries. Leave time to appreciate the beauty and size of the buildings themselves, which include the oldest public synagogue in Europe. There are frequent temporary exhibits of international interest. The museum cafe is a great place to have a cup of coffee and a pastry, or a light kosher meal.

Joods Historisch Museum (Jewish Historical Museum)

AMSTERDAM

Amstel 51 (at the Amstel River). &0900/4376-48243 or 020/530-7488. www.hermitage.nl. Admission 7.50€ adults, free for children 16 and under. Thurs–Tues 10am–7pm; Wed 10am–8pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 25. Tram: 9 or 14 to Waterlooplein.

Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 (at Waterlooplein). & 020/531-0310. www.jhm.nl. Admission 9€ adults, 6€ seniors and students, 4.50€ children 13–17, free for children 12 and under; combined admission with the Portuguese Synagogue (p.310) 12€ adults, 6€ children 13–17, free for children 12 and under. Daily 11am– 5pm (Jan 1 noon–5pm). Closed Jewish New Year (2 days) and Yom Kippur. Tram: 9 or 14 to Waterlooplein.

This isn’t the place to see Rembrandt’s greatest masterpieces; those are at the Rijksmuseum. But without a doubt, this is the best place to get an intimate sense of the artist himself. Bought by Rembrandt in 1639 when he was Amsterdam’s most fashionable portrait painter, the house, which has 10 rooms, is a shrine to one of the most remarkable artists the world has ever known. In this house, Rembrandt’s son Titus was born and his wife, Saskia, died. The artist was bankrupt when he left it in 1658. Not until 1906 was the building rescued from a succession of subsequent owners and restored as a museum.

Museum Het Rembrandthuis (Rembrandt House Museum)

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Contemporary restoration has returned the house to the way it looked when Rembrandt lived and worked here. The rooms are furnished with 17th-century objects and furniture that, as far as possible, match the descriptions in Rembrandt’s 1656 petition for bankruptcy. His printing press is back in place, and you can view 250 of his etchings and drawings hanging on the walls. Temporary exhibits are mounted in a modern wing next door. Jodenbreestraat 4 (at Waterlooplein). & 020/520-0400. www.rembrandthuis.nl. Admission 9€ adults, 6€ students, 2€ children 6–17, free for children 5 and under. Daily 10am–5pm. Closed Jan 1. Metro: Waterlooplein. Tram: 9 or 14 to Waterlooplein.

This magnificent patrician house was owned by the van Loon family from 1884 to 1945. On its walls hang more than 80 family portraits, including those of Willem van Loon, one of the founders of the United East India Company; Nicolaas Ruychaver, who liberated Amsterdam from the Spanish in 1578; and another, later, Willem van Loon, who became city mayor in 1686. Among other treasures are a family album in which are tempera portraits of all living van Loons painted at two successive dates (1650 and 1675), and a series of commemorative coins struck to honor seven different golden wedding anniversaries celebrated between 1621 and 1722. The house’s restored period rooms are filled with richly decorated paneling, stucco work, mirrors, fireplaces, furnishings, porcelain, medallions, chandeliers, rugs, and more. The garden has carefully tended hedges and a coach house modeled on a Greek temple.

Museum Van Loon

AMSTERDAM

Seeing the Sights

Keizersgracht 672 (near Vijzelstraat). & 020/624-5255. www.museumvanloon.nl. Admission 7€ adults, 5€ students and children 6–18, free for children 5 and under. Wed–Mon 11am–5pm. Tram: 16, 24, or 25 to Keizersgracht.

This museum offers another rare opportunity to visit an elegant 17th-century canal house This particular house, built in 1687, was renovated several times before its last inhabitant gave it and its contents to the city in 1889. Among the most interesting rooms are a Victorian-era bedroom on the second floor, a large reception room with tapestry wall panels, and an 18th-century basement kitchen that’s still so completely furnished and functional you could swear the cook had merely stepped out to go shopping. In the dining salon, the table under the chandelier is set for a meal being served some 300 years too late.

Museum Willet-Holthuysen

Herengracht 605 (near the Amstel River). &020/523-1822. www.willetholthuysen.nl. Admission 7€ adults, 5.25€ seniors, 3.50€ children 6–18, free for children 5 and under. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun and holidays 11am–5pm. Closed Jan 1, Apr 30, and Dec 25. Tram: 4, 9, or 14 to Rembrandtplein.

Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic) After Amsterdam’s 1578 Protestant Alteratie (Changeover), Roman Catholics fell into disfavor. Forced to worship in secret, they devised ingenious ways of gathering for Sunday services. This museum in the middle of the Red Light District incorporates the most amazing and best preserved of these clandestine places of worship. The church is in the attic of one of the oldest canal houses you can visit, which was transformed between 1661 and 1663 by wealthy Catholic merchant Jan Hartman to house a church. Seeing a rambling old canal house furnished much as it would have been in the mid-18th century, with heavy oak furniture, Delft tiles, and period paintings, makes a visit of an hour or two here worthwhile by itself. Worshipers entered by a door on a side street and climbed a narrow flight of stairs to the hidden third-floor church, with its large baroque altar, religious statuary, pews to seat 150, an 18th-century spinet-size pipe organ, and two narrow upper balconies. It’s still used for services and concerts. 306

Other rooms contain a trove of magnificent religious vessels, like 17th-century monstrances in gold and silver. Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 (near the Oude Kerk). &020/624-6604. www.opsolder.nl. Admission 7€ adults, 5€ students, 1€ children 5–18, free for children 4 and under. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun and holidays 1–5pm. Closed Jan 1 and Apr 30. Tram: 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25, or 26 to Centraal Station.

Seeing the Sights

Kattenburgerstraat 7 (in the Oosterdok). &020/523-2222. www.scheepvaartmuseum.nl. Admission 9€ adults, 7€ seniors, 4.50€ children 6–17, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm (also Mon during school vacations); Sun noon–5pm. Closed Jan 1, Apr 30, and Dec 25. Bus: 22, 42, or 43 to Kattenburgerplein.

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Scheepvaartmuseum (Maritime Museum) Note: This museum is closed for renovation until the summer of 2011; some of the service information provided below is likely to change when the museum reopens. A bonanza for anyone who loves ships and the sea, the Scheepvaartmuseum is housed in a former arsenal of the Amsterdam Admiralty dating from 1656 and overlooks the busy Amsterdam harbor. Surrounding the inner courtyard are 25 rooms with ship models, charts, instruments, maps, prints, and paintings—a chronicle of Holland’s abiding ties to the sea through commerce, fishing, yachting, navigational development, and war. Brief texts explain each exhibit, and desks with more extensive information are found in every room. A full-size replica of the Amsterdam, a three-masted United East India Company sailing ship which foundered off Hastings in 1749 on her maiden voyage to the fabled Spice Islands (Indonesia), is moored at the museum’s wharf. Other ships that can be seen include a steam icebreaker, a motor lifeboat, and a herring lugger. Environmentalists will want to go aboard Greenpeace’s retired environmental combatant Rainbow Warrior. You reach this museum by taking a 20-minute walk along the historical waterfront, the Nautisch Kwartier (Nautical Quarter).

Stedelijk Museum Note: The Stedelijk Museum is closed for renovations and expansion until 2011; some of the service information provided below is likely to change when the museum reopens. The city’s modern-art museum has works by Dutch painters such as Karel Appel, Willem de Kooning, and Piet Mondrian, and by Calder, Oldenburg, Rosenquist, Warhol, and more. It houses the largest collection outside Russia of Kasimir Malevich’s abstract paintings, but it centers its exhibits around the De Stijl, Cobra, post-Cobra, nouveau réalisme, Pop Art, color-field painting, zero, minimalist, and conceptual schools. The museum cafe features a giant Appel mural from 1956. Depending on your level of interest in modern art, you could spend from 4 hours to all day here. The Mondrian paintings displayed here include his Composition in Red, Black, Blue, Yellow, and Gray (1920), and, by way of variation, Composition in Blue, Red, Black, and Yellow (1922)—the gray’s still there, but he chose not to mention it in the title. Van Gogh gets in on the act, too, with his Montmartre (1887), Carnations (1888), and The Diggers (1889). These are alongside a handful of paintings by Chagall, Cézanne, Picasso, Renoir, Monet, and Manet, but the primary focus is on post1945 art. Not all of the collection is on display all the time, and it’s possible that you won’t see many—or even any—of these. Despite the names mentioned here, the Stedelijk is not the place to see van Goghs or works by French Impressionists. Paulus Potterstraat 13 (at Museumplein). & 020/573-2911. www.stedelijk.nl. Admission 9€ adults; 4.50€ seniors, students, and children 7–16; free for children 6 and under; 23€ family. Daily 10am–6pm. Closed Jan 1. Tram: 2, 3, 5, 12, 16, or 24 to Museumplein.

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One of Amsterdam’s more intriguing museums is run by the Royal Tropical Institute, a foundation devoted to the study of the cultures of tropical areas around the world. The building complex alone is worth the trip to Amsterdam East and the Oosterpark (East Park); its heavily ornamented facade is an amalgam of Dutch architectural styles—turrets, stepped gables, arched windows, and delicate spires—and the monumental galleried interior court is one of the most impressive spots in town. The most interesting exhibits are the walk-through model villages and city-street scenes that capture moments in the daily lives of such places as India and Indonesia; the exhibit on the tools and techniques used to produce batik, the distinctively dyed Indonesian fabrics; and the displays of the tools, instruments, and ornaments that clutter a tropical residence. There’s a permanent exhibit on people and the environment in West Asia and North Africa. Part of the premises is given over to the childrenonly Kindermuseum—the Tropical Museum Junior—with its educational and interactive exhibits.

Tropenmuseum (Tropical Museum)

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Linnaeusstraat 2 (at Mauritskade). &020/568-8200. www.tropenmuseum.nl. Admission 9€ adults, 7.50€ seniors, 5€ students, 4€ children 6–17, free for c

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